Corsair Grand Touring Battery Charging / Draining Issues

[greerl]

Yesterday. I received the BATTERY SAVER MODE message on both my 22 Corsair as well as my 23 Maverick. Being retired, I don't drive much in the Winter months, however, I drive each of my vehicles at least every 2 days. I hooked up a battery charger on both. The Corsair showed only 60 percent charge, and the Maverick 50 percent. Needless to say, both vehicles will be charged to 100%.

What gives with FORD's battery management system? I've owned many different vehicles from various manufacturers through the years and never had a vehicle where the battery has drained so low. I know that all new vehicles have various electronic components that are constantly drawing power. My other modern vehicles including Jeep, Buick, Chevy, and GMC never had this issue. Any input would be appreciated.

My guess is you are not driving them far enough to fully recharge. I don't know how far is enough but around the block certainly would not be. Also if ever deep discharge them, life is reduced.

As for whether expectations for Ford batteries specifically should be low, I'm skeptical. There may well be some much better brand out there but I consider myself lucky to approach 3 years with any brand, the nominally priced ones I buy anyway.

 

[JEEPGRADY]

My guess is you are not driving them far enough to fully recharge. I don't know how far is enough but around the block certainly would not be. Also if ever deep discharge them, life is reduced.

As for whether expectations for Ford batteries specifically should be low, I'm skeptical. There may well be some much better brand out there but I consider myself lucky to approach 3 years with any brand, the nominally priced ones I buy anyway.

When I do drive them it is at least 10 miles. I generally replace a specific vehicle from other manufacturers every 4- 5 years. Never had to buy a battery in the interim.

 

[Garyrc]

During the pandemic in early 2020, when I was only driving short trips a few days a week, I went out one day to find a dead battery on my 2017 MKC. Yet, I could go on a vacation and the car would be fine a week later at the airport. I suspect the car would flash on, ready to be driven, when I walked around near it in the house, and enough of that took its toll on the battery. I got a jump, and then took it for a ride and it was fine after that. I made sure to drive it long enough after that.

 

[olderbudweiser]

Don't know for a fact but have heard leaving the key fob in the vehcicle does not help.

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[JEEPGRADY]

Don't know for a fact but have heard leaving the key fob in the vehcicle does not help.

My keys are always inside in a Faraday box, so that isn't contributing to the problem.

 

[olderbudweiser]

My keys are always inside in a Faraday box, so that isn't contributing to the problem.

I have a 2023 Maverick Hybrid. Was out of town for 17 days. No battery tender. Just put fob in house. Upon returning the interior entry lights would not illuminate. Vehicle came alive just fine, ice not running. Backed out off I went. Since then all good.

 

[bbf2530]

Hi gang. Our Owner Manuals describe the situations in which "Deep Sleep Mode", "Battery Saver Mode" etc., are activated.
Some but not all of those situations are: below freezing temperatures, the vehicle not being driven for 14 days or more, the vehicle only being driven for short trips (lack of time to charge the battery), etc. etc. All of us must decide if our particular driving environment fits those criteria.

In most cases, it is not a problem with the vehicle. It is simply a feature which shuts down ancillary electrical features (in the circumstances described in the Owners Manual) in order to save enough charge for the vehicle to start when we need it. In other words, in most cases, "Battery Saver" and "Deep Sleep" modes are a good thing, not a bad thing. They are not a symptom of a problem, only an alert that the Battery Management System is trying to help us retain enough charge for our next drive. But again...All of us must decide if our particular driving environment fits those criteria.

In circumstances where "Deep Sleep Mode" and/or "Battery Saver Mode" are being activated for reasons other than what is described in the Owners Manual, it would be a good idea to schedule a service appointment to have the vehicle checked for any underlying issues (i.e. weak/failing battery, a possible parasitic electrical drain issue etc.).

Hope this information helps and good luck.

 

[Jenma]

I use a battery tender on my 15 Mustang (10k miles), 21 Bronco Sport (10k miles), and the 22 Corsair (4k miles). None are driven far enough to keep the battery fully charged. BTW the Mustang still has the original battery. New cars are battery parasites so drive them or use a tender.

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[Turning Blue]

I use a battery tender on my 15 Mustang (10k miles), 21 Bronco Sport (10k miles), and the 22 Corsair (4k miles). None are driven far enough to keep the battery fully charged. BTW the Mustang still has the original battery. New cars are battery parasites so drive them or use a tender.

I agree. Anything I own that has a 12 volt battery goes on a maintainer if not used almost daily. This has included cars, trucks, ATVs, and riding mowers. It will prolong the life of your battery, and ensure it's ready when you are.

Except for two 4,000 mile trips in the last 14 months, I've only driven my F150 about 4,000 "regular" miles. It sometimes sits for two or three weeks at a time.

It stays connected to a maintainer with a ring terminal harness and quick disconnect plug. I route the wire where I could close the hood, but I leave the hood unlatched. It won't start with the inside latch released, so I can't try to drive away with it still connected! If I know I'll be driving a few times over the next few days I don't bother connecting it. YMMV

 

[GapBoyPCS]

While I’ve started to move my key fob at least 10 feet from the vehicle at home, I think another facet is whether you have PAAK activated. There were times where I would get the notice and the only think I could think of is my phone somehow connecting to the car. So, the car thinks it needs to ready itself, which adds to the drain.

I feel like I’m crazy now having all my vehicles on trickle chargers. But since the pandemic I’ve driven less. Even a “daily” is realistically every other day or longer. I just can’t seem to rely on batteries as I used to.

 

[olderbudweiser]

I have zero apps actvited on my phone. I am zero techy. I had to use computers and different software for work. I got payed for that. Have zero video games have never played one. It's hands on or nothing.
Last new vehicle I bought was a 2010 F150 5.4L. I could leave that for 6 months in my garage in a Michigan winter no tender. Come back started right up.
Somehow I do not view this new stuff as progress. Ok Ok I'm an old grumpy man.

All I care about is I start vehicle put in D it goes forward, put in R it backs up, stop select P turn off.......done.

 

[houseroaf]

My Lincoln Corsair 2023 also enters battery save mode quite often.

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[jay52]

It seems the battery saver mode is a normal, and good thing, for the Lincolns. Today after a rainy day yesterday, and not driving it, and then rainy again today, I received the message. It’s the second time in its life for my 2019 mkz that I’ve seen that message. In addition to saying it was in power saver mode, it said to start it or turn it off (???). I tried to start it and it struggled to start. After several attempts it finally started and everything became normal. Does this difficulty in starting it likely mean I need a new battery after the five year battery life? If I do, do you have any suggestions for a good replacement battery? The Ford ones seem pretty expensive!! Thanks for suggestions. (It is a 3.0 T)

 

[GapBoyPCS]

It seems the battery saver mode is a normal, and good thing, for the Lincolns. Today after a rainy day yesterday, and not driving it, and then rainy again today, I received the message. It’s the second time in its life for my 2019 mkz that I’ve seen that message. In addition to saying it was in power saver mode, it said to start it or turn it off (???). I tried to start it and it struggled to start. After several attempts it finally started and everything became normal. Does this difficulty in starting it likely mean I need a new battery after the five year battery life? If I do, do you have any suggestions for a good replacement battery? The Ford ones seem pretty expensive!! Thanks for suggestions. (It is a 3.0 T)

Five years is usually average for any OEM battery, if I recall.

Do you have a traditional battery or an AGM battery? An AGM battery will cost more, as well as the Ford or Motorcraft name. That being said, I’ve had better luck with Ford/Motorcraft batteries in my Ford and Mercury vehicles.

 

[jay52]

Five years is usually average for any OEM battery, if I recall.

Do you have a traditional battery or an AGM battery? An AGM battery will cost more, as well as the Ford or Motorcraft name. That being said, I’ve had better luck with Ford/Motorcraft batteries in my Ford and Mercury vehicles.

Thank you so much for this info. I was told by the Ford dealership that my battery is not under warranty so I was thinking I had to pay for a new one. But I just now called the Lincoln Concierge and she said it is under warranty! She thinks the ford dealership is just not aware of the Lincoln warranty. I bought the 2019 new in 2020 so I’m still within the warranty. Now that I have learned that the battery is covered I guess I will have a replacement of whatever is in the car now. (?)

Although I’ve had it for almost 4 years, I suppose sitting on the lot for a year before that didn’t do the battery any favors! That said, I guess it’s been a pretty good battery!

 

[DomDoobie]

It seems the battery saver mode is a normal, and good thing, for the Lincolns. Today after a rainy day yesterday, and not driving it, and then rainy again today, I received the message. It’s the second time in its life for my 2019 mkz that I’ve seen that message. In addition to saying it was in power saver mode, it said to start it or turn it off (???). I tried to start it and it struggled to start. After several attempts it finally started and everything became normal. Does this difficulty in starting it likely mean I need a new battery after the five year battery life? If I do, do you have any suggestions for a good replacement battery? The Ford ones seem pretty expensive!! Thanks for suggestions. (It is a 3.0 T)

AutoZone Duralast platinum. I’ve had nothing but great results from these and AutoZone is outstanding for warranty and replacement. They might even install it for free !

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[MagicCarpet]

My Lincoln Corsair 2023 also enters battery save mode quite often.

Same here. Soon as the temperatures started to get <35F, the battery save mode will kick-in in 2 days or less. The remote start in the Lincoln Way app becomes useless.

 

[jay52]

Hello. I would like the benefit of your knowledge about batteries for a 6 cylinder 2019 mkz reserve II. I proceeded to replace my battery as the dealership said I needed. I think they said I had 300 cca out of a 800 cca battery. I checked the battery manufacture date and the sticker said 4/20, which was 2 months before I bought the car new, virtually no miles driven.

Anyway, I went ahead with the replacement expecting to have a new battery with the exact specs of the one being replaced under warranty. Instead, the new battery is not a AGM although the orig was, is 730 cca instead of the 800 cca of the orig, and is 140 rc instead of 180 rc of the orig. ( It does also have 900 ca noted on the label??)

The service advisor assured me I would have the same battery that I had originally but I don’t think I got that! It is a Motorcraft, of course, manufactured in 11/23, but not a AGM, which I believe would be best for my car. ??

I would appreciate your thoughts about not getting the exact specs for a replacement battery. Thanks!

 

[ljnelson109]

This should be a fun discussion. First off, in my opinion, the difference in the rating is not dramatic. I am not sure I really believe in those ratings all that much. My bigger concern would be the AGM to flooded cell change. AGM and flooded cell batteries have different charging profiles. This is a disputed topic, but many believe that the charging algorithm for the alternator should be different between the two types of batteries. I personally own a 2009 VW Jetta that calls for AGM battery. When I bought the car, someone had put a flooded cell in and it outlasted the Interstate warranty. That said, would it have lasted longer if it was AGM? Would it have performed better? I don't know. When I replaced it, Costco only had the flooded cell version (same Interstate part) that I replaced. The wanted another $50 of so for the AGM but didn't even have it on the shelf. I opted to buy another flooded cell battery.

The only time where flooded cell is simply unacceptable is when it is inside the passenger compartment. The off-gassing of the AGM is much less and poses a much smaller explosion risk (flooded cells emit hydrogen while charging).

There is one more thing, which is a bone of contention for me. When we pay someone to do work for us, especially the OEM dealer, we expect it to be done "correctly" and to spec. When they choose a cheaper compromise, they should be asking for our permission AND we should see some benefit (cost, time, etc.). If they are charging the "standard" price then you should get the equal or greater than option. This is why I get so frustrated with repair shops and dealers. If I am paying premium money, I expect to have things done right. I could have cut corners on my own.

I am open to discussion, but the above is what I have off the top of my head.

 

[jay52]

This should be a fun discussion. First off, in my opinion, the difference in the rating is not dramatic. I am not sure I really believe in those ratings all that much. My bigger concern would be the AGM to flooded cell change. AGM and flooded cell batteries have different charging profiles. This is a disputed topic, but many believe that the charging algorithm for the alternator should be different between the two types of batteries. I personally own a 2009 VW Jetta that calls for AGM battery. When I bought the car, someone had put a flooded cell in and it outlasted the Interstate warranty. That said, would it have lasted longer if it was AGM? Would it have performed better? I don't know. When I replaced it, Costco only had the flooded cell version (same Interstate part) that I replaced. The wanted another $50 of so for the AGM but didn't even have it on the shelf. I opted to buy another flooded cell battery.

The only time where flooded cell is simply unacceptable is when it is inside the passenger compartment. The off-gassing of the AGM is much less and poses a much smaller explosion risk (flooded cells emit hydrogen while charging).

There is one more thing, which is a bone of contention for me. When we pay someone to do work for us, especially the OEM dealer, we expect it to be done "correctly" and to spec. When they choose a cheaper compromise, they should be asking for our permission AND we should see some benefit (cost, time, etc.). If they are charging the "standard" price then you should get the equal or greater than option. This is why I get so frustrated with repair shops and dealers. If I am paying premium money, I expect to have things done right. I could have cut corners on my own.

I am open to discussion, but the above is what I have off the top of my head.

This should be a fun discussion. First off, in my opinion, the difference in the rating is not dramatic. I am not sure I really believe in those ratings all that much. My bigger concern would be the AGM to flooded cell change. AGM and flooded cell batteries have different charging profiles. This is a disputed topic, but many believe that the charging algorithm for the alternator should be different between the two types of batteries. I personally own a 2009 VW Jetta that calls for AGM battery. When I bought the car, someone had put a flooded cell in and it outlasted the Interstate warranty. That said, would it have lasted longer if it was AGM? Would it have performed better? I don't know. When I replaced it, Costco only had the flooded cell version (same Interstate part) that I replaced. The wanted another $50 of so for the AGM but didn't even have it on the shelf. I opted to buy another flooded cell battery.

The only time where flooded cell is simply unacceptable is when it is inside the passenger compartment. The off-gassing of the AGM is much less and poses a much smaller explosion risk (flooded cells emit hydrogen while charging).

There is one more thing, which is a bone of contention for me. When we pay someone to do work for us, especially the OEM dealer, we expect it to be done "correctly" and to spec. When they choose a cheaper compromise, they should be asking for our permission AND we should see some benefit (cost, time, etc.). If they are charging the "standard" price then you should get the equal or greater than option. This is why I get so frustrated with repair shops and dealers. If I am paying premium money, I expect to have things done right. I could have cut corners on my own.

I am open to discussion, but the above is what I have off the top of my head.

Thanks so much! I guess you can tell that I really expected to get as good a battery as I had. It was a warranty replacement so I think corners were cut, and I am bothered at the potential impact on its longevity and performance for the car.