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Lincoln Forums - The Lincoln Owners Group
What's on your mind?
My 2020 is having warranty service this week. The sunshade under the roof broke, the liftgate mechanism makes noise that it shouldn't, and the AC outlet on the back of the console won't hold a plug in. Combine that with past work on a leaky oil pan and more, and I've been thinking that I shouldn't keep it past the end of the warranty next spring. There are just too many expensive repairs lurking in this vehicle. It goes against my family history of driving vehicles till they don't run any more.
They initially gave me a 2026 Reserve Hybrid as a loaner, with the 99-way seats and other foolishness. They took it back in order to sell it. Now I have a 2026 2.0L gas Premiere WITH NO SUNROOF which I didn't know was even possible. It seems to be a base model - I haven't looked in detail but there's no foot-operated liftgate, for example. The sound system is basic. It has Blue Cruise. 1500 miles on it. I need to get the sticker to see exactly what it has. I put the VIN into a decoder site which claims it has a 2.7 but I'm quite sure it's a 2.0. Unless the 2.7 is much much smaller than it was in 2020.
Should I be entertaining thoughts of trading in my 2020 on the 2026 Premiere? I am trying to ignore the China factor for now.
They initially gave me a 2026 Reserve Hybrid as a loaner, with the 99-way seats and other foolishness. They took it back in order to sell it. Now I have a 2026 2.0L gas Premiere WITH NO SUNROOF which I didn't know was even possible. It seems to be a base model - I haven't looked in detail but there's no foot-operated liftgate, for example. The sound system is basic. It has Blue Cruise. 1500 miles on it. I need to get the sticker to see exactly what it has. I put the VIN into a decoder site which claims it has a 2.7 but I'm quite sure it's a 2.0. Unless the 2.7 is much much smaller than it was in 2020.
Should I be entertaining thoughts of trading in my 2020 on the 2026 Premiere? I am trying to ignore the China factor for now.
5 Replies
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167 views
Ford Motor Company made a $3 Billion dollar investment in a Marshall Michigan (pop just under 7000) plant (Near Battle Creek MI) to build batteries for electric cars.
While at the same time closing the $5.8 billion Blue Oval SK battery plant in Glendale, Kentucky. 1600 workers were laid off. (population 1900)
The Kentucky plant was to supply batteries for the F150 Lightening to be built in the Blue Oval City plant in Heywood County, Tennessee.
HOWEVER - the Federal Government stopped issuing incentives! The elimination of the $7,500 credit for new EVs and the $4,000 credit for used EVs, which ended September 30, 2025, significantly reduced EV demand and disrupted Ford’s long-term EV battery strategies.
Without incentives, a battery powered vehicle is more expensive than gasoline powered. The mass market moves based on dollars. With the wealthier buyer choosing battery power at times because they can.
The solution for Ford was to pivot! The Tennessee plant will produce gas powered trucks for model year 2029
Meanwhile, Lucid Motors just announced the layoff of 1500 workers or 18% of the work force in the Casa Grande, Arizona assembly plant. (Pop of Casa Grande is 69,000)
When the Government steps in to the business arena, more times than not it is a failure. The state of CA has a mandate for 2035 for 100% of new vehicles sold to have zero emissions. (ZEV) ZEV regulations are technology-forcing policies, incentivizing automakers to develop vehicles with longer electric ranges and lower emissions This is actually a tiered thing making it's way to 100% by model year 2035. Plus as always there are loop holes and exceptions. Which is a reason Ford split the company into two pieces several years ago. There is Ford Motor Company and Blue Oval. Blue Oval builds vehicles with electric power in some variation. My question in all of this legislation is what are the results?? Will we really get that much more significant cleaner air in the US?
Ford is sitting on $23 Billion in cash and cash equivalent accounts. (Which is slightly more than GM has) From the outside one might suggest, expand the North American market to other models that were built in the past. The problem is the Government. With a mandate to build a different power train in a short period of time, this becomes very expensive. Ford dropped $5.8 billion in Kentucky and ended up with nothing. When the Federal Government ended incentives in 2025, that market segment radically changed. Or fell off a cliff.
The current administration has paved the way for lower cost gasoline vehicles to be built. The unknown is what happens after 2028.
It is rather easy to write legislation. Execution become where the rubber meets the road.
And whatever happens, it is you and me that ultimately pays the bill. EVEN if you never buy a new vehicle again, the market changes radically when Uncle Sam steps into the marketplace. It might leave you breathless.
Action
While at the same time closing the $5.8 billion Blue Oval SK battery plant in Glendale, Kentucky. 1600 workers were laid off. (population 1900)
The Kentucky plant was to supply batteries for the F150 Lightening to be built in the Blue Oval City plant in Heywood County, Tennessee.
HOWEVER - the Federal Government stopped issuing incentives! The elimination of the $7,500 credit for new EVs and the $4,000 credit for used EVs, which ended September 30, 2025, significantly reduced EV demand and disrupted Ford’s long-term EV battery strategies.
Without incentives, a battery powered vehicle is more expensive than gasoline powered. The mass market moves based on dollars. With the wealthier buyer choosing battery power at times because they can.
The solution for Ford was to pivot! The Tennessee plant will produce gas powered trucks for model year 2029
Meanwhile, Lucid Motors just announced the layoff of 1500 workers or 18% of the work force in the Casa Grande, Arizona assembly plant. (Pop of Casa Grande is 69,000)
When the Government steps in to the business arena, more times than not it is a failure. The state of CA has a mandate for 2035 for 100% of new vehicles sold to have zero emissions. (ZEV) ZEV regulations are technology-forcing policies, incentivizing automakers to develop vehicles with longer electric ranges and lower emissions This is actually a tiered thing making it's way to 100% by model year 2035. Plus as always there are loop holes and exceptions. Which is a reason Ford split the company into two pieces several years ago. There is Ford Motor Company and Blue Oval. Blue Oval builds vehicles with electric power in some variation. My question in all of this legislation is what are the results?? Will we really get that much more significant cleaner air in the US?
Ford is sitting on $23 Billion in cash and cash equivalent accounts. (Which is slightly more than GM has) From the outside one might suggest, expand the North American market to other models that were built in the past. The problem is the Government. With a mandate to build a different power train in a short period of time, this becomes very expensive. Ford dropped $5.8 billion in Kentucky and ended up with nothing. When the Federal Government ended incentives in 2025, that market segment radically changed. Or fell off a cliff.
The current administration has paved the way for lower cost gasoline vehicles to be built. The unknown is what happens after 2028.
It is rather easy to write legislation. Execution become where the rubber meets the road.
And whatever happens, it is you and me that ultimately pays the bill. EVEN if you never buy a new vehicle again, the market changes radically when Uncle Sam steps into the marketplace. It might leave you breathless.
Action
1 Replies
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146 views
Where to begin. I have a 2025 Lincoln Nautilus that I bought in May 2025. I have had it 12 months and it’s been in the dealership nine times already.
The rotors make grinding noise every time I brake. The liftgate won’t open when I push the button (but it does randomly open on its own when I start the vehicle). The battery has died and they have had to replace it after I begged and begged. The only reason battery was replaced was because I sent a formal letter and they were given one final attempt.
Now, the battery is messed up again. The other issues aren’t fixed. And today, I called Lincoln Customer service. The lady started to help me and said she would get right on it. But then 20 minutes later, I get a call from “Emily” at an Illinois number. She told me they wouldn’t be helping me because they obviously can’t make me happy.
I’m not asking for a back massage or any other perks. I’m simply asking for my new vehicle to work. But instead, Lincoln is doing whatever they can to let the warranty run out. And now they have gone and black listed me from calling.
So now what? I can’t call or get help. I did see there is some law where they can’t ignore just to run out the warranty but I’m thinking they don’t really care.
The rotors make grinding noise every time I brake. The liftgate won’t open when I push the button (but it does randomly open on its own when I start the vehicle). The battery has died and they have had to replace it after I begged and begged. The only reason battery was replaced was because I sent a formal letter and they were given one final attempt.
Now, the battery is messed up again. The other issues aren’t fixed. And today, I called Lincoln Customer service. The lady started to help me and said she would get right on it. But then 20 minutes later, I get a call from “Emily” at an Illinois number. She told me they wouldn’t be helping me because they obviously can’t make me happy.
I’m not asking for a back massage or any other perks. I’m simply asking for my new vehicle to work. But instead, Lincoln is doing whatever they can to let the warranty run out. And now they have gone and black listed me from calling.
So now what? I can’t call or get help. I did see there is some law where they can’t ignore just to run out the warranty but I’m thinking they don’t really care.
70 Replies
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3060 views
I'm looking to the button press sequences that enter "Engineering Mode" for the main display and the SYNC 4 maintenance menu. Web and "AI" searches all give me sequences that I can't use (like pressing and holding Seek-Right and Volume Down - since I have a "joystick" on the wheel that has both of these functions, I can't hold them both)...
Suggestions?
Thnk you in advance.
Suggestions?
Thnk you in advance.
4 Replies
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232 views
V
It sounds like you're dealing with two completely different diagnostic menus here, and those generic searches were completely steering you (no pun intended
) wrong on the SYNC 4 sequence. Pressing volume down + seek right is actually the reboot sequence for the Mustang Mach-E, not the diagnostic sequence for the Corsair!).
Here are the correct sequences for your Corsair GT:
1. Instrument cluster engineering test mode (ET mode)
This mode tests the gauge cluster, chimes, battery voltage, and raw sensor data.
- With the car completely off, press and hold the OK button on your steering wheel (the center press of the right hand directional pad).
- While continuing to hold OK, press the engine Start button once to turn the ignition to accessory mode (don't put your foot on the brake - you don't want the engine to start).
- Keep holding the OK button for about 5-10 seconds.
- The letters "ET" or "Engineering Test Mode" will appear on the instrument cluster screen. You can then release the OK button and use the up/down arrows to scroll through the hidden menus. To exit, just turn off the vehicle.
2. SYNC 4 / main display maintenance menu (APIM diagnostics)
This menu lets you test the touchscreen, speakers, telematics modem, and view active accessory protocol interface module (APIM) fault codes. Since you can't physically press volume down and seek right on your left joystick at the same time, you have to use the vehicle's secondary sequence.
- Turn the vehicle on (accessory mode or fully running).
- Make sure the audio is turned on (playing the stereo is fine).
- On your steering wheel's left joystick, push and hold to the right (seek right).
- At the same time, press and hold the seek right / skip forward button on your dashboard's physical media/climate control panel below the screen.
- Hold both buttons together for about 10 seconds.
- The screen will suddenly drop into the speaker walk-around rest. Once that starts, you can hit "end test" to back out to the main bezel diagnostics menu.
If you ever actually need to force a soft reboot of your main screen because it freezes, the sequence for the Corsair is to press and hold the physical power button - the center of the dashboard volume knob - along with the seek right button on the steering wheel for 10 seconds until the screen goes black.
Hello and welcome! Frustrating when generic AI searches give you instructions that are physically impossible for your specific steering wheel.
It sounds like you're dealing with two completely different diagnostic menus here, and those generic searches were completely steering you (no pun intended
) wrong on the SYNC 4 sequence. Pressing volume down + seek right is actually the reboot sequence for the Mustang Mach-E, not the diagnostic sequence for the Corsair!).Here are the correct sequences for your Corsair GT:
1. Instrument cluster engineering test mode (ET mode)
This mode tests the gauge cluster, chimes, battery voltage, and raw sensor data.
- With the car completely off, press and hold the OK button on your steering wheel (the center press of the right hand directional pad).
- While continuing to hold OK, press the engine Start button once to turn the ignition to accessory mode (don't put your foot on the brake - you don't want the engine to start).
- Keep holding the OK button for about 5-10 seconds.
- The letters "ET" or "Engineering Test Mode" will appear on the instrument cluster screen. You can then release the OK button and use the up/down arrows to scroll through the hidden menus. To exit, just turn off the vehicle.
2. SYNC 4 / main display maintenance menu (APIM diagnostics)
This menu lets you test the touchscreen, speakers, telematics modem, and view active accessory protocol interface module (APIM) fault codes. Since you can't physically press volume down and seek right on your left joystick at the same time, you have to use the vehicle's secondary sequence.
- Turn the vehicle on (accessory mode or fully running).
- Make sure the audio is turned on (playing the stereo is fine).
- On your steering wheel's left joystick, push and hold to the right (seek right).
- At the same time, press and hold the seek right / skip forward button on your dashboard's physical media/climate control panel below the screen.
- Hold both buttons together for about 10 seconds.
- The screen will suddenly drop into the speaker walk-around rest. Once that starts, you can hit "end test" to back out to the main bezel diagnostics menu.
If you ever actually need to force a soft reboot of your main screen because it freezes, the sequence for the Corsair is to press and hold the physical power button - the center of the dashboard volume knob - along with the seek right button on the steering wheel for 10 seconds until the screen goes black.
T
I don't have a console seek right / skip forward button (see attached photo).
For the ET menu, my joystick does not press in at the center position - OK is a position to the right that is illuminated when it is needed - there is not an "OK" position when the car is off...
I don't have a console seek right / skip forward button (see attached photo).
For the ET menu, my joystick does not press in at the center position - OK is a position to the right that is illuminated when it is needed - there is not an "OK" position when the car is off...
I am trying to replace the passenger mirror on my 1997 Town Car and have run into a problem. The original mirror has 2 wiring terminals, 1 has 6 wires and the other has 4 wires. All replacement mirrors I see online (Amazon, Ebay Parts Geek, etc.) have only a single wire terminal with 5 wires. Since the original mirror has been discontinued by Lincoln, I wonder if someone offers an adapter (wire harness) of some sort that would allow the 5 wire terminal on the replacement mirror to connect to the original wiring inside the door. What are my options?
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235 views
Got 2 recall letters this week. Thank you Lincoln for telling me about these problems I didn't know about my car and then telling me you have no fix. I feel better now.
23 Replies
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1372 views
Mrs. Moore
I own a 2017 Lincoln MKC with the 2.0L EcoBoost engine. The vehicle has begun displaying recurring low coolant warnings and overheating symptoms. After researching the issue, I learned that many owners have reported coolant intrusion, where coolant leaks into the engine cylinders due to a defect in the engine block design. This can cause coolant loss without visible leaks, rough starts, misfires, overheating, check engine lights, and ultimately engine failure requiring engine replacement. I am currently seeking a diagnosis to determine whether my vehicle is experiencing the same known EcoBoost coolant intrusion issue.
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198 views
eddie hayes457
2001 Lincoln Town Car Cartier wires hanging from rear headliner what are they for
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74 views
And other vehicles regarding the transmission parking problem.
Seven injuries and 2 emotional injuries.
No fix yet. Maybe not till 2027
Use the parking brake.
Action
Seven injuries and 2 emotional injuries.
No fix yet. Maybe not till 2027
Use the parking brake.
Action
1 Replies
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62 views
I've been chasing some squeals in my brakes, fully serviced rotors all-around, new pads all around, last weekend even cleaned and put some "bedding surface" of some type on the rotors (from the autoparts store); still no dice. Has anyone ever had just a bad/loud pads right out of the box? I'm ready to shoot the parts canon, because for the life of me, I cannot find the cause of the squeal and its awful.
During this work, a shop guy* was helping apply the brakes while I was looking for the noise, and he commented the pedal felt soft. To me, it feels normal, but I drive it every day and it feels the same as my previous 2007 Town Car. He's also coming from the world of trucks, I don't think he and his wife even have a car. I'm wondering if "our" pedals are intended to have a softer feel? Engagement doesn't start in earnest until 1/3 down; a hard stop I'd press to probably the lower 1/4 of travel. For due diligence, I did completely flush my brake system (definitely needed done anyway), everything properly bled, but the pedal feels the same. Does anyone have a pedal that's engaging right around the top of travel or is the feel intended as a "luxury" feature (I believe it is)?
* - interestingly, while I find the squeal ear piercing, both shop guys (only ~12 years older than me), cannot hear it at all. I would be inclined to think "I" was crazy if it weren't for the looks of horror and plugging ears from women and children when I drive around our quiet town square.
During this work, a shop guy* was helping apply the brakes while I was looking for the noise, and he commented the pedal felt soft. To me, it feels normal, but I drive it every day and it feels the same as my previous 2007 Town Car. He's also coming from the world of trucks, I don't think he and his wife even have a car. I'm wondering if "our" pedals are intended to have a softer feel? Engagement doesn't start in earnest until 1/3 down; a hard stop I'd press to probably the lower 1/4 of travel. For due diligence, I did completely flush my brake system (definitely needed done anyway), everything properly bled, but the pedal feels the same. Does anyone have a pedal that's engaging right around the top of travel or is the feel intended as a "luxury" feature (I believe it is)?
* - interestingly, while I find the squeal ear piercing, both shop guys (only ~12 years older than me), cannot hear it at all. I would be inclined to think "I" was crazy if it weren't for the looks of horror and plugging ears from women and children when I drive around our quiet town square.
5 Replies
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181 views
I've driven Panthers exclusively for the last 25 years. Every time I drive someone else's car I do a quick brake check right away just to see what I'm in for just because I'm so used to Panther brakes. That being said, an experience that stands out to me was a time I had to move a friend's new Toyota Highlander about 7 or 8 years ago after replacing pads on all 4 corners on my old '00 MGM. I LIGHTLY tapped the brakes and almost went through the windshield. So yeah, just a little bit of a difference.
Ever since I had to replace my alternator, I've had odd electric issues. The back windows no longer work, the wiper fluid motor doesn't engage, the speakers pop randomly even without music playing. I've tried replacing the driver door module and tested all the fuses/relays but nothing came up.
Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Any advice is greatly appreciated!
4 Replies
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202 views
