The Dreaded Drivers Door Module Part Numbers

[johnyguy]

Here you go
Binary Value -110000000000000000000000000000001111111101100000

Hex Value
C000 0000 FF60

hi how do i use this to program my 2008 Town Car can you explain?
i mean the new ddm module

 

[johnyguy]

I think I could do that, but I don't have any reference to go by. All of the data in the Panther document is for later Panthers which won't interchange with the '03-'05 cars. I may try your settings on one of the modules.

hi
where do i get the documents you mentioned to program the ddm for a 2008?

thanks

 

[johnyguy]

Pretty sure I've seen a couple folks read and flash those modules on here over the years with forscan.
I've pulled the programing off mine before but never flashed one.

Hi what do you mean by "pulled the programing of mine"??
Thanka

 

[08 Signature L]

HI

I am new here I also have a 2008 signature L same options as yours , I am in FL .
my issue is the remote stop working everything else is ok and also i have a battery drain issue .

Can you share the info how you did the programing since we both have the same car?
I have find a unit with same numbers as mine same as your on ebay most likely i need to program it.
Thank you in advance
John

To program you will need the Forscan program and a OBDII reader that will work with it. The best thing to do is watch some youtube vids on Forscan. I was able to "read" and "download" the data from my car using the Forscan program and then "program" or "upload" the same data to the DDM after I had replaced it with the new used one. I did not reprogram all the modules in the car just the DDM. Spend a few hours on the youtube, get the program, and OBDII reader and I bet you will get 'er done.

I would do it sooner rather than later as you don't want the existing DDM to break even further and become unreadable, I don't know if that is a possibility or not but I wouldn't want to risk it.

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[johnyguy]

To program you will need the Forscan program and a OBDII reader that will work with it. The best thing to do is watch some youtube vids on Forscan. I was able to "read" and "download" the data from my car using the Forscan program and then "program" or "upload" the same data to the DDM after I had replaced it with the new used one. I did not reprogram all the modules in the car just the DDM. Spend a few hours on the youtube, get the program, and OBDII reader and I bet you will get 'er done.

I would do it sooner rather than later as you don't want the existing DDM to break even further and become unreadable, I don't know if that is a possibility or not but I wouldn't want to risk it.

hi
thanks for the info ,I have been looking at videos on forscan to learn ,but i was not sure where to get the data "the missing options "the ddm may don't have but my car does so this is how.

how about this info?

how can we use this what he posted was wondering?

"
raiderfan247365 said:
Here you go
Binary Value -110000000000000000000000000000001111111101100000

Hex Value
C000 0000 FF60

 

[johnyguy]

Read my earlier saga. Most mechanics won't put that much effort into troubleshooting, and most independents won't even have a wiring manual, which is essential. The DDMs are out of production and likely will not be made again. There is very little to program in the DDM, again see my posts. You can program the remotes, and not a whole lot more. Any DDM from the right year, which for your car will be 2006-later, should work the seats. You may also have a bad seat module.

Step 1 is to check the two fuses mentioned in this thread, given your situation. You might get lucky and just have a blown fuse.

Step 2 is to check the wires, both hots and the ground, going to the DDM. Be sure to check with a voltmeter, NOT just a power light, as I mentioned earlier. You need to see 12V or better on both power leads. This has to be done at the connector for the DDM. Now that I think about it, your DDM might actually have three hot leads between the three connectors. Gotta have that wiring manual.

If all of this checks out, I guess it's theoretically possible a bad seat module could be shorting the DDM. Having said that, your problem sounds an awful lot like mine. That VT/LG wire I mention splices to the seat module BEFORE it goes to the DDM inside the door, so if that splice is coming apart or that wire is bad like mine was, that could be your problem.

hi Vinci do you know what color are the cables with the 12 volt on those connectors going to the ddm?
I like to check it on mine

Thank you!!

 

[ScatCat]

I need a remanufactured Keyless Door Entry Module 3W1T-13C791-AH for 2003 Lincoln Town Car Executive Model.

Can anyone suggested a reliable vendor and Post a link?

 

[08 Signature L]

I need a remanufactured Keyless Door Entry Module 3W1T-13C791-AH for 2003 Lincoln Town Car Executive Model.

Can anyone suggested a reliable vendor and Post a link?

I think you will have to find one at the wrecking yard. If it's like the 2008 (and likely so) any 2003 panther platform will work after you program it.
Actually you may be able to use a variety of years you will just have to research it.

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[ScatCat]

I think you will have to find one at the wrecking yard. If it's like the 2008 (and likely so) any 2003 panther platform will work after you program it.
Actually you may be able to use a variety of years you will just have to research it.

I would prefer a remanufactured one so it will last longer, my luck is not the best. Do any of the big parts houses carry these remanufactured?

 

[johnyguy]

I need a remanufactured Keyless Door Entry Module 3W1T-13C791-AH for 2003 Lincoln Town Car Executive Model.

Can anyone suggested a reliable vendor and Post a link?

Look up the number on it year also ,they selling it on ebay used.

if the number matches it will work it may need to be reprogramed

 

[johnyguy]

I would prefer a remanufactured one so it will last longer, my luck is not the best. Do any of the big parts houses carry these remanufactured?

there is no new one anywhere they dont make it no longer
only used availab

 

[08 Signature L]

I would prefer a remanufactured one so it will last longer, my luck is not the best. Do any of the big parts houses carry these remanufactured?

Just get two and while you have the door apart program them both. Then you will have a backup. They aren't too expensive at the wrecking yard and it's good to have an extra...

As noted by Johnyguy, there are no new ones.

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[oktowncar]

I need a remanufactured Keyless Door Entry Module 3W1T-13C791-AH for 2003 Lincoln Town Car Executive Model.

Can anyone suggested a reliable vendor and Post a link?

car-part.com for yards near you with possible sources

 

[johnyguy]

I would prefer a remanufactured one so it will last longer, my luck is not the best. Do any of the big parts houses carry these remanufactured?

You will find it on ebay

 

[jerryfo]

Hello, all.

Starting in 2003, Ford installed a "Drivers Door Module" as standard equipment in Lincoln Town Cars. This module assumed functions previously taken by other computers in the car, and added new "functionality." This functionality is best shown when the DDM fails and makes the entire car nearly unusable.

System-wise, the Drivers Door Module is part of the "Alarm System," which explains why it affects the windows and doors. Since "memory seat positions" can tie into the remote key fobs, seat adjustment is also affected for all models. Some versions of this module are actually labeled "Drivers Door Module" on the part number sticker. Some earlier DDMs may have the factory Keyless Entry Code on them printed on a sticker. Later ones will not have this sticker. New/New-Old-Stock in intact packaging will have this code printed on a separate glove-box card. This number can be read from a functional unit via Forscan or the Ford Factory Service Software.

2003-2005, Lincoln Town Car only. PN: 41WZ-15K602-AA. This part is called the "Anti-Theft Alarm Control Unit." It's also known as the "Module, Receiver, Processor-Multiplex, Door."

2006-2007, all Lincoln Town Cars, all Ford Crown Victoria, and all Mercury Grand Marquis as well. PN: 61WZ-15K602-B. Added Tire Pressure Monitoring System functionality. This part is called the "Tire Pressure Monitoring System Receiver. It's also known as the "Module, Receiver, Control Module, Kit - Keyless Entry - Cntrlr &"

2008, PN: 8W7Z-15K602-A, same description as 2006-2007.

2009-2011, PN: 9W7Z-15K602-C, same description as 2006-2007.

When buying this module used from a salvage yard or eBay, you should ideally get the same year, make, and level of "options" that are affected by the DDM as are installed on your car. If the make is different for 2006 and later, but the options are the same, the module should work, provided the base part number is also the same. Different part numbers will likely not interchange physically, much less electronically.

When buying new/NOS parts from "wherever," buy the same part number as fitted to your car. The part will work but only after being programmed. This can be done with the Ford Factory Dealer Service software, and does not necessarily require any residual functionality from the failed DDM. This might also be possible using Forscan, but I haven't personally used Forscan. I will defer to an experienced Forscan user for the details on that.

No one has claimed to have successfully "re-programmed" a used DDM in the field. This may be impossible, or may just be FoMoCo FUD designed to sell new parts rather than dealing with re-flashing a used part which may or may not stay "fixed" after re-flashing.

If anyone has attempted to re-flash a used DDM in the field, could you reply with what you used, what you did, and if it succeeded or not?

Thanks.

I was lucky enough to find the same ddm part number at a salvage yards. All the functions worked after replacing the module

3W1T13C791AF
4W1T13C791AA
OE# 8e0907391a, 3d0907391b

Is what the salvage yard Hollander system notes are for 03-05
fwiw..

I'm an 04 Ultimate too so I'm interested how yours works out, I think the previous owner
of mine said it had been replaced once but you never know. By the by I wouldn't mind
having your old dead one to do a post mortem on.

I was lucky enough to find one at a local
salvage yard. The 4W1T13C791AA ddm worked including the heated seats even though the donor car didn't have them. The only thing I had to do was program the door keypad using the factory code that was on the label of the ddm. The numbers I used were the 1/2, 3/4, etc which allowed me to
enter personal codes via the keypad. Hope this helps someone in the same situation.

 

[jerryfo]

Hopefully you can answer this question my car alarm it's only done it twice but kept going off in the middle of the night at least the neighbors didn't hear it cuz I live in a housing complex but is there any other possibility or a cheaper fix that could be the problem I'm currently unemployed but I do have the money to fix it but for how long I don't know so hopefully you can answer this and can help me out

I was able (lucky) to find a ddm for an 03 Town Car at a local U public it that matched the numbers on mine. Installed the ddm and all but the door keypad didn't work until I used the codes on the ddm sticker 1/2, 3/4 etc. The codes on the ddm are the factory Keyless codes burned in the module. Need that code to program any personal codes you want to use. What surprised me was even the heated seats which the donor car didn't have worked. Apparently the module may have those options programmed even though they're not installed. Key fob also was programmable to the new ddm using the key on/off procedure.

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[Hsmitty99]

OK, folks, here's the conclusion you were all no doubt waiting for with baited breath.

1. Every splice on the wiring diagram I posted above is indeed right there in the door, except for the splice that goes to the adjustable pedal switch up in the dash. It is prior to C238.
2. At some point after C238, the LG/VT wire was, as best I can describe it, rotted. The insulation was fully intact all the way to the splices, but when I went to bend that wire out of the way, it just broke. Then I tugged on what was left after the break, and it snapped off too. The copper was very brittle, and the insulation was too. Not like it overheated and melted, but overheating is the only option I can see as to why it did this. The resistance from this wire to C238 was in the Mega Ohm range.
3. One factor in the wire's demise may have been that the conduit it was in allowed water to get in and accumulate. It was coming in through the speaker wire, which enters the conduit almost vertically (black wrapped cable coming down vertically in 1st pic), and there was water accumulation evidence inside the conduit, 2nd pic below, and this was after I cleaned out a good bit of the grit you can see. The white wire is the new wire that I wrapped around the harness, connected to the upstream side of C238. I made my cut prior to C238, so the downstream side is now cold. You can also see that I had traced out the power trunk ("T") and passenger side power door lock ("PDL") wires and had labelled them.
4. To prevent future water intrusion, I heavily taped the harness back past where I had cut it open (the conduit itself is wrapped in black tape at the factory), and then because I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy, I sealed off the entry of the speaker cable even more with Permagum (duct sealant) and another cap of tape over the top of that. This is the third pic, though I had not put the tape cap on top of the Permagum yet.

So, all that to say, everything works now - seat, mirrors, power trunk, locks, remotes, everything! I will probably get around to creating a separate post documenting all of this for others struggling with DDM issues.


View attachment 14909

View attachment 14910


View attachment 14911

What

OK, folks, here's the conclusion you were all no doubt waiting for with baited breath.

1. Every splice on the wiring diagram I posted above is indeed right there in the door, except for the splice that goes to the adjustable pedal switch up in the dash. It is prior to C238.
2. At some point after C238, the LG/VT wire was, as best I can describe it, rotted. The insulation was fully intact all the way to the splices, but when I went to bend that wire out of the way, it just broke. Then I tugged on what was left after the break, and it snapped off too. The copper was very brittle, and the insulation was too. Not like it overheated and melted, but overheating is the only option I can see as to why it did this. The resistance from this wire to C238 was in the Mega Ohm range.
3. One factor in the wire's demise may have been that the conduit it was in allowed water to get in and accumulate. It was coming in through the speaker wire, which enters the conduit almost vertically (black wrapped cable coming down vertically in 1st pic), and there was water accumulation evidence inside the conduit, 2nd pic below, and this was after I cleaned out a good bit of the grit you can see. The white wire is the new wire that I wrapped around the harness, connected to the upstream side of C238. I made my cut prior to C238, so the downstream side is now cold. You can also see that I had traced out the power trunk ("T") and passenger side power door lock ("PDL") wires and had labelled them.
4. To prevent future water intrusion, I heavily taped the harness back past where I had cut it open (the conduit itself is wrapped in black tape at the factory), and then because I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy, I sealed off the entry of the speaker cable even more with Permagum (duct sealant) and another cap of tape over the top of that. This is the third pic, though I had not put the tape cap on top of the Permagum yet.

So, all that to say, everything works now - seat, mirrors, power trunk, locks, remotes, everything! I will probably get around to creating a separate post documenting all of this for others struggling with DDM issues.


View attachment 14909

View attachment 14910


View attachment 14911

What an incredible journey. I admire the tenacity. I'm new to the Town Car world and just bought a 2003 with an eerily similar situation, so I will begin my investigation with the door wiring circuits. My question is: Where can I get a copy of the wiring diagram? I'm sorry if that is a dumb question but I've searched the forum and couldn't find anything. Thanks!

 

[Action]

What

My question is: Where can I get a copy of the wiring diagram? I'm sorry if that is a dumb question but I've searched the forum and couldn't find anything. Thanks!

Not a dumb question. Just difficult to store all of that data for every Lincoln model made and every model year.

The entire vehicle wiring diagram is likely hundreds of pages. It is about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch thick.
That factory wiring diagram is on eBay. In hard copy and CD.
The detail comes with wire size, wire color, connector shape and location, ground locations and other things as well.

Pick one up and you will get lots of answers. The attached is for 2001. The 2003 model year is available as well.

Action

 

[Hsmitty99]

Not a dumb question. Just difficult to store all of that data for every Lincoln model made and every model year.

The entire vehicle wiring diagram is likely hundreds of pages. It is about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch thick.
That factory wiring diagram is on eBay. In hard copy and CD.
The detail comes with wire size, wire color, connector shape and location, ground locations and other things as well.

Pick one up and you will get lots of answers. The attached is for 2001. The 2003 model year is available as well.

Action
View attachment 23991

Thanks, that's exactly what I needed to know.

 

[etinpa]

Action always prefers the paper copy of these things... I prefer the digital version.

Here's one on Ebay right now for ~$30 + $5 shipping

Loading…

www.ebay.com

That one covers all Ford products from 2001-2003. I've seen many DVDs that cover only certain models (and, it seems, the Town Car is never one of them) while this one covers all models including the Town Car.

I've heard a lot of discussions about which color Ford DVD to buy. Some say there's no difference but my experience is that the red ones cover all models Ford, Lincoln and Mercury (except the heavy trucks).