The Dreaded Drivers Door Module Part Numbers

Brian J. Patterson

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Hello, all.

Starting in 2003, Ford installed a "Drivers Door Module" as standard equipment in Lincoln Town Cars. This module assumed functions previously taken by other computers in the car, and added new "functionality." This functionality is best shown when the DDM fails and makes the entire car nearly unusable.

System-wise, the Drivers Door Module is part of the "Alarm System," which explains why it affects the windows and doors. Since "memory seat positions" can tie into the remote key fobs, seat adjustment is also affected for all models. Some versions of this module are actually labeled "Drivers Door Module" on the part number sticker. Some earlier DDMs may have the factory Keyless Entry Code on them printed on a sticker. Later ones will not have this sticker. New/New-Old-Stock in intact packaging will have this code printed on a separate glove-box card. This number can be read from a functional unit via Forscan or the Ford Factory Service Software.

2003-2005, Lincoln Town Car only. PN: 41WZ-15K602-AA. This part is called the "Anti-Theft Alarm Control Unit." It's also known as the "Module, Receiver, Processor-Multiplex, Door."

2006-2007, all Lincoln Town Cars, all Ford Crown Victoria, and all Mercury Grand Marquis as well. PN: 61WZ-15K602-B. Added Tire Pressure Monitoring System functionality. This part is called the "Tire Pressure Monitoring System Receiver. It's also known as the "Module, Receiver, Control Module, Kit - Keyless Entry - Cntrlr &"

2008, PN: 8W7Z-15K602-A, same description as 2006-2007.

2009-2011, PN: 9W7Z-15K602-C, same description as 2006-2007.

When buying this module used from a salvage yard or eBay, you should ideally get the same year, make, and level of "options" that are affected by the DDM as are installed on your car. If the make is different for 2006 and later, but the options are the same, the module should work, provided the base part number is also the same. Different part numbers will likely not interchange physically, much less electronically.

When buying new/NOS parts from "wherever," buy the same part number as fitted to your car. The part will work but only after being programmed. This can be done with the Ford Factory Dealer Service software, and does not necessarily require any residual functionality from the failed DDM. This might also be possible using Forscan, but I haven't personally used Forscan. I will defer to an experienced Forscan user for the details on that.

No one has claimed to have successfully "re-programmed" a used DDM in the field. This may be impossible, or may just be FoMoCo FUD designed to sell new parts rather than dealing with re-flashing a used part which may or may not stay "fixed" after re-flashing.

If anyone has attempted to re-flash a used DDM in the field, could you reply with what you used, what you did, and if it succeeded or not?

Thanks.
 
Excellent post as always, Brian – thanks!

I blindly replace one of these several years ago on my 2003 Executive and got lucky – it worked. I didn’t know anything about matching options.

It should be noted that for 2003-2005, the Keyless Entry Code number on the DDM is important. If you want to program your own entry code, the one on the DDM has to be entered first. So write that number down in a safe place like your manual.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

My 2003 Cartier
 
Excellent post as always, Brian – thanks!

I blindly replace one of these several years ago on my 2003 Executive and got lucky – it worked. I didn’t know anything about matching options.

It should be noted that for 2003-2005, the Keyless Entry Code number on the DDM is important. If you want to program your own entry code, the one on the DDM has to be entered first. So write that number down in a safe place like your manual.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

My 2003 Cartier

Hi, Wayne A. Pflughaupt.

The Factory Keyless Entry Code is important for all years of Lincoln Town Car equipped with the Keyless Entry (keypad) system. The "original" code printed in various locations on the car in the years they did so is only valid for the "original" "box," whether that box is the DDM, the PCM, or whatever.

Pre-DDM, this functionality had been in the PCM, which had the code printed on it. Since the PCM is buried in the firewall, this was not a very big deal security-wise.

In any case, Forscan or the Ford Factory Dealer software can be used to read the code from "wherever it lives," saving the owner the bother of gutting the driver's side firewall, driver's door, etc. And if replacing the DDM with a new/NOS part with intact packaging, you will either have the number on the label, or on a glove-box card.

Thanks.
 
Pretty sure I've seen a couple folks read and flash those modules on here over the years with forscan.
I've pulled the programing off mine before but never flashed one.
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Brian,

I really appreciate how generously you've shared your time and expertise on this issue. It sounded like you may have decided to make this post, at least in part, in response to the problems I was having that you addressed in another thread.

Thanks to your help I was able to get it fixed and at a significant savings.

However, after doing so myself, I'm not so sure this information is complete or it might not lead to the most affordable fix for other DIYers.

It does indeed seem like the product number for the DDM of my year/model town car (03 Cartier Edition) directly through Ford would be 41WZ-15K602-AA

However, when we first talked about this the other week, it was something like 460 dollars on discount from over 600 for the part? New, and programmed, I am sure, with all those wonderful "features."

Today, it says that same part has been discontinued, without looking into it further for a possible replacement.

In any case, good thing I already found one that works.

My first attempt to find a working DDM was with an 04 Ultimate Town Car that was in the salvage yard. The sticker had the (I assume, product/model) number 4W1T-13C791-AA on it. I've included a picture with it on there.

***This following long section is what happens when you use the wrong DDM - skip it by going just past the other heading with asterisks***

Despite being of the similar model year range and seemingly having all the same features - that I could remember - it didn't work. I am pretty sure the only thing that I forgot to check where it was the same before extracting the part was the (driver and front passenger) heated seats and I believe those come standard on the 04 Ultimate, from what I could find. Only today did I learn that they might also have heated rear seats come standard, whereas my 03 Cartier does not have heated rear seats. If the 03-05 DDMs really are that interchangeable, I wonder if that could have made such a difference.

At least with the new, partially-functional DDM, I was able to control my seat and thus not have to use a booster seat of sorts (a thick cushion from a sectional couch) to sit forward far enough to safely reach the pedals and steering wheel, albeit still uncomfortably and looking quite ridiculous as well as being less capable of controlling my vehicle as I normally might. I was also able to regain control of my sideview mirrors.

At first, it seemed as though the door locks worked, once? It seemed like after programming the key fobs that had failed many months ago (that I had gotten used to), they briefly worked except for not being able to control the power trunk. After getting in and driving for the first time, the locks all triggered immediately - a feature I've noticed on other cars, but that mine didn't do.

I think the keyless entry pad also worked once or twice to unlock and lock the vehicle.

However, later, after the power locks stopped working, I manually unlocked the rear door from the inside and went to grab something through it from the outside, at which point the alarm was set off.

After turning the key in the driver door as if to unlock the car, it stopped happening, but I would still make sure I did that first if I might have done anything besides manually lock or unlock any of the doors to open other doors.

It worked as a band-aid, but not a long-term fix.

I suppose I could have learned how to use Forscan and to get the right adapter. I originally wrote it off because I thought Forscan required one of those fancy new, heavy duty touchpad scanners that cost thousands, but I guess there are OBD2 to USB adapters that would allow you the full power of Forscan for something like $25 or $30 dollars - without looking into it that much - and possibly allow me to flash a similar, but differently programmed part? I like learning new things on occasion, but there are diminishing returns.

I also suppose the salvaged DDM could have been bad as well. Based on the wear and tear of the salvage vehicle, it had many, many miles more than mine. I can't disprove that another 4W1T-13C791-AA or similar numbered part wouldn't work perfectly for my car from the one failure.

*** End wrong DDM experience ***

Before I went to the closest salvage yard with a relatively similar year/model, I had been looking online for DDMs, and after that failed, I decided to pay more for an identically numbered part - still much cheaper than a new one.

But, I decided that for under $100, I'd give a used and tested DDM a try.

The original part number on the sticker, shown as attached, was 3W1T-13C791-AF

When I first searched for a replacement, I saw plenty of AE and didn't notice the AF, and somehow just assumed that the bottom part of the E rubbed off or faded or something. Now I am pretty sure AE and AF are different somehow.

There are all sorts of part numbers for these, such as the 4W1T-13C791-AA above, there are several "suffixes" so to speak such as -AA, -AB, -AH, -AE, -AF, but not all combinations for each year, if the 3 or 4 is related to the model year or a version of the DDM itself. I thought maybe the first number (3 in 3W1T) had to do with the model year and/or or when it was manufactured, but it could have been coincidence based on my limited searches.

Being a panther platform vehicle, and, as I understand it, the Town Car being basically being an upgraded Crown Vic/Grand Marquis, the DDMs in those other vehicles are quite similar and some also have -13C791- in the middle, with some of those popping up as suggestions, although they sometimes have different prefixes and suffixes like 4W7T- and -BB and model years around 2006 or so appear to have different shapes (if not connectors as well) and (sometimes?) the middle 6 digits are different.

Anyway, I've attached what my original DDM sticker looked like, and the new (used) one also is 3W1T-13C791-AF. The seller wrote "03TC" on it, plus the new keyless entry code directly on the sticker worked right away, as did all the button combinations to control the locks and trunk.

I was able to program my key fobs again, which I thought had gone bad - when they were actually the very first symptoms of the failing DDM over a year ago (very glad I didn't buy new ones after all) - as well as control everything I could think of that involved the DDM and, without driving it for a while to be sure first, it appears that the identical part number works in all ways I had hoped, whereas the similar, albeit mismatched one, only provided slightly more functionality.

All that to say, making sure I got another 3W1T-13C791-AF seemed to do the trick and would be my suggested course of action for anyone else looking to swap their failing/failed DDM out for a different one, rather than hoping the features (and therefore programming) are identical enough.

Thanks again for all your help!
 

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Hi guys/gals,
I'm new to this forum.
Looking to replace my DDM in a 2007 Town Car. My DDM part is 6W1T-13C791-BB

Found one with 6W7T-13C791-BB. Should this still work?
Whats the difference ?
 
Hi guys/gals,
I'm new to this forum.
Looking to replace my DDM in a 2007 Town Car. My DDM part is 6W1T-13C791-BB

Found one with 6W7T-13C791-BB. Should this still work?
Whats the difference ?
Hey there Rocknron29, welcome to the forum! After reading though the DDM posts, I don't know that we have a concrete answer on this, seems to be a lot trial and error with these. Good luck.
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Hey there Rocknron29, welcome to the forum! After reading though the DDM posts, I don't know that we have a concrete answer on this, seems to be a lot trial and error with these. Good luck.
Thanks RaiderFan247365....
Just in case someone else has the Question, this is what my local junkyard gave me

6W1T-13C791-BB
6W =model year 2006
1T = Lincoln Towncar

6W7T-13C791-BB
6W =model year 2006
7T = CrownVictoria

13C791 = options - Keyless entry and RKE, auto lock/unlock

BB = version number

Best to get the same options code and version. 1T vs 7T is a gamble, but might work
 
Thanks RaiderFan247365....
Just in case someone else has the Question, this is what my local junkyard gave me

6W1T-13C791-BB
6W =model year 2006
1T = Lincoln Towncar

6W7T-13C791-BB
6W =model year 2006
7T = CrownVictoria

13C791 = options - Keyless entry and RKE, auto lock/unlock

BB = version number

Best to get the same options code and version. 1T vs 7T is a gamble, but might work

Thanks for the breakdown! Wonder if this is valid of a sticky?
 
Just to add to the discussion, I had to pull the door off my 09' Town Car so I figured I'd snap a pic of the DDM part numbers. According to the info @Rocknron29 was given, this DDM is from a Crown Vic lol? Which is funny because my Town Car has heated seats, power trunk, power mirrors with memory, I don't think the Crown Vic has any of those features? 🤷🏽‍♂️

PXL_20210605_030416614.webp
 
as an update, i didn't completely re-flash my replacement module with Forscan , but, was able to pull the factory keyless code from the replacement module (different than my original) with the extended license, program my own codes , modify some features and all works well. If i feel the need, i'll reconnect my old module save the data and try to write back to my replacement . i'll post my results then
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Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!
 
Brian,

I really appreciate how generously you've shared your time and expertise on this issue. It sounded like you may have decided to make this post, at least in part, in response to the problems I was having that you addressed in another thread.

Thanks to your help I was able to get it fixed and at a significant savings.

However, after doing so myself, I'm not so sure this information is complete or it might not lead to the most affordable fix for other DIYers.

It does indeed seem like the product number for the DDM of my year/model town car (03 Cartier Edition) directly through Ford would be 41WZ-15K602-AA

However, when we first talked about this the other week, it was something like 460 dollars on discount from over 600 for the part? New, and programmed, I am sure, with all those wonderful "features."

Today, it says that same part has been discontinued, without looking into it further for a possible replacement.

In any case, good thing I already found one that works.

My first attempt to find a working DDM was with an 04 Ultimate Town Car that was in the salvage yard. The sticker had the (I assume, product/model) number 4W1T-13C791-AA on it. I've included a picture with it on there.

***This following long section is what happens when you use the wrong DDM - skip it by going just past the other heading with asterisks***

Despite being of the similar model year range and seemingly having all the same features - that I could remember - it didn't work. I am pretty sure the only thing that I forgot to check where it was the same before extracting the part was the (driver and front passenger) heated seats and I believe those come standard on the 04 Ultimate, from what I could find. Only today did I learn that they might also have heated rear seats come standard, whereas my 03 Cartier does not have heated rear seats. If the 03-05 DDMs really are that interchangeable, I wonder if that could have made such a difference.

At least with the new, partially-functional DDM, I was able to control my seat and thus not have to use a booster seat of sorts (a thick cushion from a sectional couch) to sit forward far enough to safely reach the pedals and steering wheel, albeit still uncomfortably and looking quite ridiculous as well as being less capable of controlling my vehicle as I normally might. I was also able to regain control of my sideview mirrors.

At first, it seemed as though the door locks worked, once? It seemed like after programming the key fobs that had failed many months ago (that I had gotten used to), they briefly worked except for not being able to control the power trunk. After getting in and driving for the first time, the locks all triggered immediately - a feature I've noticed on other cars, but that mine didn't do.

I think the keyless entry pad also worked once or twice to unlock and lock the vehicle.

However, later, after the power locks stopped working, I manually unlocked the rear door from the inside and went to grab something through it from the outside, at which point the alarm was set off.

After turning the key in the driver door as if to unlock the car, it stopped happening, but I would still make sure I did that first if I might have done anything besides manually lock or unlock any of the doors to open other doors.

It worked as a band-aid, but not a long-term fix.

I suppose I could have learned how to use Forscan and to get the right adapter. I originally wrote it off because I thought Forscan required one of those fancy new, heavy duty touchpad scanners that cost thousands, but I guess there are OBD2 to USB adapters that would allow you the full power of Forscan for something like $25 or $30 dollars - without looking into it that much - and possibly allow me to flash a similar, but differently programmed part? I like learning new things on occasion, but there are diminishing returns.

I also suppose the salvaged DDM could have been bad as well. Based on the wear and tear of the salvage vehicle, it had many, many miles more than mine. I can't disprove that another 4W1T-13C791-AA or similar numbered part wouldn't work perfectly for my car from the one failure.

*** End wrong DDM experience ***

Before I went to the closest salvage yard with a relatively similar year/model, I had been looking online for DDMs, and after that failed, I decided to pay more for an identically numbered part - still much cheaper than a new one.

But, I decided that for under $100, I'd give a used and tested DDM a try.

The original part number on the sticker, shown as attached, was 3W1T-13C791-AF

When I first searched for a replacement, I saw plenty of AE and didn't notice the AF, and somehow just assumed that the bottom part of the E rubbed off or faded or something. Now I am pretty sure AE and AF are different somehow.

There are all sorts of part numbers for these, such as the 4W1T-13C791-AA above, there are several "suffixes" so to speak such as -AA, -AB, -AH, -AE, -AF, but not all combinations for each year, if the 3 or 4 is related to the model year or a version of the DDM itself. I thought maybe the first number (3 in 3W1T) had to do with the model year and/or or when it was manufactured, but it could have been coincidence based on my limited searches.

Being a panther platform vehicle, and, as I understand it, the Town Car being basically being an upgraded Crown Vic/Grand Marquis, the DDMs in those other vehicles are quite similar and some also have -13C791- in the middle, with some of those popping up as suggestions, although they sometimes have different prefixes and suffixes like 4W7T- and -BB and model years around 2006 or so appear to have different shapes (if not connectors as well) and (sometimes?) the middle 6 digits are different.

Anyway, I've attached what my original DDM sticker looked like, and the new (used) one also is 3W1T-13C791-AF. The seller wrote "03TC" on it, plus the new keyless entry code directly on the sticker worked right away, as did all the button combinations to control the locks and trunk.

I was able to program my key fobs again, which I thought had gone bad - when they were actually the very first symptoms of the failing DDM over a year ago (very glad I didn't buy new ones after all) - as well as control everything I could think of that involved the DDM and, without driving it for a while to be sure first, it appears that the identical part number works in all ways I had hoped, whereas the similar, albeit mismatched one, only provided slightly more functionality.

All that to say, making sure I got another 3W1T-13C791-AF seemed to do the trick and would be my suggested course of action for anyone else looking to swap their failing/failed DDM out for a different one, rather than hoping the features (and therefore programming) are identical enough.

Thanks again for all your help!
I am beginning my search for a DDM for my 2004 Ultimate and my DDM part number is the 4W1T-13C791-AA. Until about 2 months ago all systems worked but then both fobs lost contact with the DDM. All other systems/buttons still work. I'd like to believe the 3W1T would work for me they seem more available than the 4W1Ts. I can't imaging both fobs losing the ability to contact the DDM at the same time other than the receiver on the DDM going bad. If anyone has a better thought I'd like to hear it.
 
3W1T13C791AF
4W1T13C791AA
OE# 8e0907391a, 3d0907391b

Is what the salvage yard Hollander system notes are for 03-05
fwiw..

I'm an 04 Ultimate too so I'm interested how yours works out, I think the previous owner
of mine said it had been replaced once but you never know. By the by I wouldn't mind
having your old dead one to do a post mortem on.
 
I'm pretty bad about hoarding pieces-parts and if I could get my hands on a real board level schematic I'd like to see if there was any possibility I could repair it but I will definitely get back to you if I'm contemplating file 13:) I will also get back when/if I get it repaired.
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Went to a Ford parts person today and was told the 4W1T-13C791-AA is an engineering number which corresponds to a part number of 4W1Z-15k602-AA.
 
Hello, all.

Starting in 2003, Ford installed a "Drivers Door Module" as standard equipment in Lincoln Town Cars. This module assumed functions previously taken by other computers in the car, and added new "functionality." This functionality is best shown when the DDM fails and makes the entire car nearly unusable.

System-wise, the Drivers Door Module is part of the "Alarm System," which explains why it affects the windows and doors. Since "memory seat positions" can tie into the remote key fobs, seat adjustment is also affected for all models. Some versions of this module are actually labeled "Drivers Door Module" on the part number sticker. Some earlier DDMs may have the factory Keyless Entry Code on them printed on a sticker. Later ones will not have this sticker. New/New-Old-Stock in intact packaging will have this code printed on a separate glove-box card. This number can be read from a functional unit via Forscan or the Ford Factory Service Software.

2003-2005, Lincoln Town Car only. PN: 41WZ-15K602-AA. This part is called the "Anti-Theft Alarm Control Unit." It's also known as the "Module, Receiver, Processor-Multiplex, Door."

2006-2007, all Lincoln Town Cars, all Ford Crown Victoria, and all Mercury Grand Marquis as well. PN: 61WZ-15K602-B. Added Tire Pressure Monitoring System functionality. This part is called the "Tire Pressure Monitoring System Receiver. It's also known as the "Module, Receiver, Control Module, Kit - Keyless Entry - Cntrlr &"

2008, PN: 8W7Z-15K602-A, same description as 2006-2007.

2009-2011, PN: 9W7Z-15K602-C, same description as 2006-2007.

When buying this module used from a salvage yard or eBay, you should ideally get the same year, make, and level of "options" that are affected by the DDM as are installed on your car. If the make is different for 2006 and later, but the options are the same, the module should work, provided the base part number is also the same. Different part numbers will likely not interchange physically, much less electronically.

When buying new/NOS parts from "wherever," buy the same part number as fitted to your car. The part will work but only after being programmed. This can be done with the Ford Factory Dealer Service software, and does not necessarily require any residual functionality from the failed DDM. This might also be possible using Forscan, but I haven't personally used Forscan. I will defer to an experienced Forscan user for the details on that.

No one has claimed to have successfully "re-programmed" a used DDM in the field. This may be impossible, or may just be FoMoCo FUD designed to sell new parts rather than dealing with re-flashing a used part which may or may not stay "fixed" after re-flashing.

If anyone has attempted to re-flash a used DDM in the field, could you reply with what you used, what you did, and if it succeeded or not?

Thanks.
Hopefully you can answer this question my car alarm it's only done it twice but kept going off in the middle of the night at least the neighbors didn't hear it cuz I live in a housing complex but is there any other possibility or a cheaper fix that could be the problem I'm currently unemployed but I do have the money to fix it but for how long I don't know so hopefully you can answer this and can help me out
 
Hopefully you can answer this question my car alarm it's only done it twice but kept going off in the middle of the night at least the neighbors didn't hear it cuz I live in a housing complex but is there any other possibility or a cheaper fix that could be the problem I'm currently unemployed but I do have the money to fix it but for how long I don't know so hopefully you can answer this and can help me out
It's a Lincoln Town Car 04 ultimate it has every option imaginable even surprise ones I didn't know it had lumbar side airbags in the seats and God knows what else I've only had the car a couple of months and I'm still learning stuff
 
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