MKT Front Suspension

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Eatkinso

New member
Dec 25, 2021
1
0
1
I’ve had my 2019 MKT for about 6 months and am mostly liking it. My only complaint is the front suspension. When I go over a pothole, manhole cover or large cracks in the road, it sounds and feels like I’m driving a Uhaul truck. There is a loud and forceful “thunk” which is concerning. I’ve had two dealers look at it and they both say the suspension is fine. I also have a 2019 Nautilus and it takes the same road challenges like there is nothing there and is smooth as butter. Anyone have any insight they can share? Thanks
 

dbphelps

Member
Aug 3, 2021
21
27
13
One data point for everyone to consider.

My MKS had a similar "thunk" and EVERYONE thought it was in the front end (was checked out by a dealership and an independent shop), but everything always checked out, so I never gave into the whole "lets replace this or this and this to see if it will resolve it". Turns out it was the rear shocks. No leaks or anything else showing wrong, and it rode excellent.

While redoing the rear brakes I also undid the rear shocks and low and behold they were both bad. Replaced them with factory parts and the "thunk" is gone. It also does ride even better and a resonance I had that was causing the rear view mirror to vibrate and make noise (sounded like the dashboard, but it was the mirror) is completely gone as well.
 

RedGeminiPA

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
599
165
43
Altoona, PA
At over $700 each for the electronic shocks/struts in an MKT, not many people are in a hurry to replace something that truly isn't bad. I lived with it until it was traded in.
 

dbphelps

Member
Aug 3, 2021
21
27
13
At over $700 each for the electronic shocks/struts in an MKT, not many people are in a hurry to replace something that truly isn't bad. I lived with it until it was traded in.

You didn't read my post. I stated you can undo one end of the shocks and determine if it is bad or not. Dealerships look to see if it leaks or if they get a code and if not, then it is good. Upon unbolting the shock from the lower knuckle you can tell it is bad immediately as it will compress without any resistance.

Simply unbolt one end and you can tell the shock is bad. I never said to anyone to just replace a perfectly good part. I even stated as much in my post.
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Davox6

New member
Apr 14, 2021
9
5
3
I really don't think that is a solution for the MKT, dbphelps. I may be mistaken but your MKS is built on a different platform than the MKT. I have had the front and rear suspension of my 2013 MKT checked several times at the dealership and found nothing wrong. It's all in the 20" wheels. If anyone is looking to buy a used MKT stay away from the ones with 20's
 

SGilbert

Senior Member
Jan 15, 2010
1,051
221
63
South Bend, IN
I really don't think that is a solution for the MKT, dbphelps. I may be mistaken but your MKS is built on a different platform than the MKT. I have had the front and rear suspension of my 2013 MKT checked several times at the dealership and found nothing wrong. It's all in the 20" wheels. If anyone is looking to buy a used MKT stay away from the ones with 20's
Unless they changed in the last several years of production, all 3.5 EcoBoosts came with 20's. Only the crappy 3.7 came with 19's.
The ONLY thing wrong with the 20's is the low profile; creating a harsh bumpy ride.
 

dbphelps

Member
Aug 3, 2021
21
27
13
I really don't think that is a solution for the MKT, dbphelps. I may be mistaken but your MKS is built on a different platform than the MKT. I have had the front and rear suspension of my 2013 MKT checked several times at the dealership and found nothing wrong. It's all in the 20" wheels. If anyone is looking to buy a used MKT stay away from the ones with 20's
Actually the MKT and MKS share a TON of the same parts, including suspension and braking.

So, most certainly, it DOES apply. I own both MKS and MKT vehicles.

Also, yes 20" wheels have more mass in general and can contribute to a harsher ride due to a lower profile tire, but it is NOT 20" wheels that are to blame across the board. Certain wear items will wear out quicker with a 20" wheel, but in general the suspensions are tuned for the wheel/tire options offered, with the later model vehicles being much better tuned than the earlier models. Things constantly evolve as the platform ages and they continue to release newer models of the same.
 

Davox6

New member
Apr 14, 2021
9
5
3
My window sticker of my 2013 MKT 3.5 Ecoboost had 19" as standard equipment and the 20" in the optional equipment.
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RedGeminiPA

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
599
165
43
Altoona, PA
I really don't think that is a solution for the MKT, dbphelps. I may be mistaken but your MKS is built on a different platform than the MKT. I have had the front and rear suspension of my 2013 MKT checked several times at the dealership and found nothing wrong. It's all in the 20" wheels. If anyone is looking to buy a used MKT stay away from the ones with 20's
The MKS, MKT, Taurus, FLEX and Explorer all share the same platform, and they're all based on the old Volvo P2 chassis. Sadly, Ford didn't use the high-strength Boron Steel that Volvo used.
 

dwlow09

New member
Oct 6, 2021
16
7
3
It must be all in perspective . I traded in a Mustang GT for my MKT . I love the ride on mine . While my MKT is being fixed , my daily driver is a 2015 Super Duty . Once again , no comparison .
I also traded in a 2018 Mustang GT for my 2018 MKT I love the MKT but hate the MPG. Its so much easier to get my big body in and out
 

dougernautt

Junior Member
Jul 14, 2016
14
4
3
I may have figured this out. Sort of ? I have had ball joint and struts replaced as well. Dealer and other shops were baffled. One felt so bad they didnt charge me for the ball joint. Believe that ?

This winter the driver side started making noise. I stuck a borescope in the space between the top of the front subframe mount and the plastic inner wheel molding. See picture with red circle. this is the driver side toward the front and I gave the wheel turned left to get in there.
The other pictures are screenshots of the borescope screen from i phone- whatever that black nipple on top of the subframe ENGINE CRADLE FRONT BUSHING is punching a f@#$%^&g hole into the metal there in pictures 2 and 3. The one hole is completely through the other has not gone through as far as I can tell. Its pretty cold and my fingers got numb sorry for bad pictures. I would say the The hole that is complete is almost directly beneath my battery.
 

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Mine is s 2011 MKT. I had noticed this *thud*, but shrugged! "Old car!" I thought. I took it into the dealer for a "check engine" light and they also road tested it as I know it needs a brake job. The service advisor tells me I need to replace the control arm - safety issue! That, with the alignment, brake job and a few other assorted sundries, reminds me that there is no such thing as a "free ride". I paid cash and was looking forward to zero car payments. Instead, I am paying for lots of repairs!
Same problem here!!! Paid for my 2013 Lincoln MKT and I’ve had nothing but problems. I had a recall rear links replaced and alignment and ever since then, I’ve had front end suspension issues. Control arms were replaced and now my front end is sagging. I’ve spend soo much money on repairs so far.
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truckmen

Member
Mar 3, 2021
54
24
8
Newport, Maine
One data point for everyone to consider.

My MKS had a similar "thunk" and EVERYONE thought it was in the front end (was checked out by a dealership and an independent shop), but everything always checked out, so I never gave into the whole "lets replace this or this and this to see if it will resolve it". Turns out it was the rear shocks. No leaks or anything else showing wrong, and it rode excellent.

While redoing the rear brakes I also undid the rear shocks and low and behold they were both bad. Replaced them with factory parts and the "thunk" is gone. It also does ride even better and a resonance I had that was causing the rear view mirror to vibrate and make noise (sounded like the dashboard, but it was the mirror) is completely gone as well.
I'll check into that as soon as it warms up.
 

Sephirot

Member
Jun 11, 2021
31
4
8
Sofia, Bulgaria
Got 2015 3.5 Ecoboost AWD with 20" tires and front right strud is dead. Leaked oil all over and it was replaced an year ago right before I bought the car. Can someone please show me the exact replacement part? In Europe this car is kind of exotic and mechanics don't know the exact parts. And I don't want to order something from rockauto.com that will be useless and the cost of return is more than the item itself :). I see the following two options with a huge price difference:
1. MOTORCRAFT AST12315 - 179.79$. And it does not mention if it is electronically adjustable as it should be.
2. MONROE 72656 OESpectrum - 80.99 - Even looks different from the Motorfraft but it says that it is electronically adjustable.

Which one of those?
 

RedGeminiPA

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
599
165
43
Altoona, PA
Got 2015 3.5 Ecoboost AWD with 20" tires and front right strud is dead. Leaked oil all over and it was replaced an year ago right before I bought the car. Can someone please show me the exact replacement part? In Europe this car is kind of exotic and mechanics don't know the exact parts. And I don't want to order something from rockauto.com that will be useless and the cost of return is more than the item itself :). I see the following two options with a huge price difference:
1. MOTORCRAFT AST12315 - 179.79$. And it does not mention if it is electronically adjustable as it should be.
2. MONROE 72656 OESpectrum - 80.99 - Even looks different from the Motorfraft but it says that it is electronically adjustable.

Which one of those?
It's looking like front right is Ford DE9Z-18124-J. That part number looks to cross reference to the MotorCraft AST12315. Price seems to be around the $190-200 price range from a couple US Ford parts suppliers. Look for pictures that show electrical wires. There was only one electronic strut for the MKT from 2013 - 2019.
 

NavigatorPro

Member
Mar 19, 2022
64
28
18
My Lincoln
2018 and 2021 Lincoln Navigator L
Make sure the.sway bar endlinks are still good. Also look at lower control arms.
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KFLoogSmith

New member
Mar 9, 2022
8
3
3
My Lincoln
2012 MKT
After reading this thread, perhaps I won't be trading my 3.5 2012 for a newer MKT after all. My 12 is the smoothest riding car I've ever owned. Getting nervous with the high miles 106K, was thinking of getting one with about 40K. On the other hand, I keep seeing these cars online classifieds with 200K, some with over 300K. Think I'll sit tight for awhile, maybe keep until 200K.
 

NavigatorPro

Member
Mar 19, 2022
64
28
18
My Lincoln
2018 and 2021 Lincoln Navigator L
After reading this thread, perhaps I won't be trading my 3.5 2012 for a newer MKT after all. My 12 is the smoothest riding car I've ever owned. Getting nervous with the high miles 106K, was thinking of getting one with about 40K. On the other hand, I keep seeing these cars online classifieds with 200K, some with over 300K. Think I'll sit tight for awhile, maybe keep until 200K.
The Ford Tech Makuloco on Youtube talks about all the possible flaws in this vehicle. Here are some of them:

#1. Water pump failure- Past 150000 miles water pump failure is an expensive possibility. Its a good idea to be aware and perform oil testing.

#2. Suspension- You need new lower front control arms every 120000 miles, struts/shocks every 50000 miles and swaybar endlinks when they break.

#3. Transmission fluid change...Get it flushed eveey 30000 miles and you wont have issue with the trans.

#4. Oil...Every 3000 miles change

#5. Plugs/coils change every 60000 miles.

#6. Coolant and thermostat every 80000 miles.

#7. PTU fluid every 30000 miles. Rear axle fluid every 50000 miles.
 

RedGeminiPA

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
599
165
43
Altoona, PA
The water pump in my former '14 started leaking at 120k. Dealer also strongly recommended replacing the timing chain while in there. It was around $2200 for the job. My warranty paid for all but around $600, since the timing chain wasn't covered since it was a water pump failure. Timing chain was already stretching before 120k. The startup rattle was gone after replacing the timing chain as part of the water pump job.
 
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