I am Lincoln MKT Expert! Please ask your questions of me...I will include an FAQ!

[robd2az]

I have a 2104 MKT, the parking brake pedal will not lock when applying brake. any ideas on why this would happen? was working fine then tried to lock parking brake pedal and it will not lock. Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

[G-723718]

I have been driving Lincoln MKTs for a while daily in every kind of condition to include snowstorms. I will avail you of myself to answer any questions you might have. In this thread, I will include an FAQ....

FAQ
Clunks, thumps, and noises up front

#1. First check the swaybar endlinks. Turn your wheel all the way to the right or left depending on the side you are inspecting. Look under where the strut is and there is a long rod-like item. This is the sway bar endlink and the most common front suspension item which simply snaps in half every 30,000 miles or so. Fortunately, this is not a hard or expensive part to replace. When it snaps then it will clunk against the inner fender area. The front end will also dive and sway as its now disconnected from the front sway bar.

#2. Second, the front lower control arm bushing gives out every 120,000 miles give or take. This will cause a noise. No one to include the dealership will be able to figure this out. If you experience this kind of noise and have no idea where its coming from around 120,000 miles up front its probably those lower control arms. This is a more expensive repair. Look underneath the vehicle and the two lower control arms look like forks right around the area where the swaybar is. If you have trouble finding it just google for pictures. When you look underneath the vehicle the lower control arm should jump out at you.

#3. Sway-bar bushings- You go over a bump and hear that squeal. Easy! Sway bar bushings and about every 50,000 miles this happens.

Whirring and whining sound upon acceleration
Most of the time this is one of those gear boxes associated with the all wheel drive system. There is the infamous PTU or power transfer unit and the rear differential. The fluid in both should be changed every 30,000 miles. The PTU is more infamous for going bad, but the rear differential takes a bit longer and usually above 100,000 miles. Both should be babied.

Left front door drivers arm-rest disintegrating
Luckily Ford has an armrest available. The best place to find these is at one of these Ford discount parts websites or Ebay. The most expensive place to find it is the local dealership. An interior place can get this done, but the local dealership...after they research it a bit...can get this done.

Catalytic Converters
These go at 80,000 miles give or take. They are considered a wear-away item. Ford became concerned this only lasted 80,000 miles and put an extended warranty on the MKT converters. Not sure if any of those warranties are still valid today. You will have to consult your local dealer.

Shocks/struts
If your MKT came with non-electronic shocks/struts then those will start to go around 40,000 miles. For the rear shocks there is a carpeted area on the quarter trim panel. Do not remove the quarter trim panel but peel the carpeted item away slowly and unsnap it. That is the access panel to the bolt of the rear shocks. When taking to a mechanic go ahead and peel that off because he will try to take out the quarter trim panel and damage the panel.

The Oil Change UnderShield
You will have to remove that pesky undershield when changing the oil. Eventually you will most certainly have to replace the hardware bolts/brackets which attach the shield to the underbody and may have to replace the entire shield itself especially over 100,000 miles. This comes with the territory of such a shield which is removed every time the oil is changed. So, yes, this will eventually be replaced or rebuilt with new bolts/brackets.

Monroe Quick Struts...not known to be the greatest for the MKT. Many report issues.

Unfortunately you will have to get Motorcraft off of RockAuto

Tires
Best of the best tires are Continental CrossContact LX25

Transmission
The transmission is a reliable unit, but must be flushed every 30000 miles at the dealership for it to be reliable. The filter is not serviceable unless you want to remove the entire transmission AND split open the case to get it.

Water in the door
From time to time water gets into the door shells. There are plastic plugs on the bottom of the door. Simply remove them to drain it out...but dont put the plugs back in. The water got in there for a reason and if you put them back in the water will just get in there again.

So let me know your MKT questions. Operators are standing by!

Where is the purge valve located? 2012 lincoln mkt 3.7L ecoboost

 

[MikeMQ]

I have been driving Lincoln MKTs for a while daily in every kind of condition to include snowstorms. I will avail you of myself to answer any questions you might have. In this thread, I will include an FAQ....

FAQ
Clunks, thumps, and noises up front

#1. First check the swaybar endlinks. Turn your wheel all the way to the right or left depending on the side you are inspecting. Look under where the strut is and there is a long rod-like item. This is the sway bar endlink and the most common front suspension item which simply snaps in half every 30,000 miles or so. Fortunately, this is not a hard or expensive part to replace. When it snaps then it will clunk against the inner fender area. The front end will also dive and sway as its now disconnected from the front sway bar.

#2. Second, the front lower control arm bushing gives out every 120,000 miles give or take. This will cause a noise. No one to include the dealership will be able to figure this out. If you experience this kind of noise and have no idea where its coming from around 120,000 miles up front its probably those lower control arms. This is a more expensive repair. Look underneath the vehicle and the two lower control arms look like forks right around the area where the swaybar is. If you have trouble finding it just google for pictures. When you look underneath the vehicle the lower control arm should jump out at you.

#3. Sway-bar bushings- You go over a bump and hear that squeal. Easy! Sway bar bushings and about every 50,000 miles this happens.

Whirring and whining sound upon acceleration
Most of the time this is one of those gear boxes associated with the all wheel drive system. There is the infamous PTU or power transfer unit and the rear differential. The fluid in both should be changed every 30,000 miles. The PTU is more infamous for going bad, but the rear differential takes a bit longer and usually above 100,000 miles. Both should be babied.

Left front door drivers arm-rest disintegrating
Luckily Ford has an armrest available. The best place to find these is at one of these Ford discount parts websites or Ebay. The most expensive place to find it is the local dealership. An interior place can get this done, but the local dealership...after they research it a bit...can get this done.

Catalytic Converters
These go at 80,000 miles give or take. They are considered a wear-away item. Ford became concerned this only lasted 80,000 miles and put an extended warranty on the MKT converters. Not sure if any of those warranties are still valid today. You will have to consult your local dealer.

Shocks/struts
If your MKT came with non-electronic shocks/struts then those will start to go around 40,000 miles. For the rear shocks there is a carpeted area on the quarter trim panel. Do not remove the quarter trim panel but peel the carpeted item away slowly and unsnap it. That is the access panel to the bolt of the rear shocks. When taking to a mechanic go ahead and peel that off because he will try to take out the quarter trim panel and damage the panel.

The Oil Change UnderShield
You will have to remove that pesky undershield when changing the oil. Eventually you will most certainly have to replace the hardware bolts/brackets which attach the shield to the underbody and may have to replace the entire shield itself especially over 100,000 miles. This comes with the territory of such a shield which is removed every time the oil is changed. So, yes, this will eventually be replaced or rebuilt with new bolts/brackets.

Monroe Quick Struts...not known to be the greatest for the MKT. Many report issues.

Unfortunately you will have to get Motorcraft off of RockAuto

Tires
Best of the best tires are Continental CrossContact LX25

Transmission
The transmission is a reliable unit, but must be flushed every 30000 miles at the dealership for it to be reliable. The filter is not serviceable unless you want to remove the entire transmission AND split open the case to get it.

Water in the door
From time to time water gets into the door shells. There are plastic plugs on the bottom of the door. Simply remove them to drain it out...but dont put the plugs back in. The water got in there for a reason and if you put them back in the water will just get in there again.

So let me know your MKT questions. Operators are standing by!

The inside sun shield? has stopped opening, the roof still operates normally. Could this be the motor for the inside cover?

 

[Bronco Carl]

So my 2013 3.5 Ecoboost MKT has about 120k for miles and the water pump went bad . Having been an automotive machinist for 30 years I tore into it and replaced the timing chains, water pump (Melling made in USA), chain tensioners, and chain guides. The timing set was an Ina set, part of the Sheffler Groupe a major supplier to Europeon manufacturers. After doing this the engine was sealed up and quiet. I now have cam phaser noise, not just start up but at low RPM. The entertainment screen reboots every 10 minutes and the HVAC control turns the heat on high constantly. Does anyone have a fix for this stuff, or would anyone like to buy a cheap Lincoln MKT.

______________________________

 

[gwendolyn]

I have a Lincoln MKT 2013. Roughly 4-6 months ago we noticed some popping and fizzling noises coming from the speakers. Fast forward to the past 2 months and it now will randomly go off while driving and sound like fireworks going off but inside the car. REAL LOUD and nothing changes it or makes it stop other than shutting the car off and opening the door. Just today... I started my car to warm it up(winter here) and I walk away and hear the fireworks going off. 7 minutes later we walk out the house to get the car no fireworks. The second the last door shuts the fireworks go mad crazy and I have to shut the car off. But this time it wont restart! Putting the key in the secret spot in the center console didnt do anything. It wouldn't register. IM SO LOST! How do I solve this problem with out spending thousands getting it diagnosed?