2024 Nautilus frequently in battery saver mode

Hi angore. You have a misconception or two in your post about how the system actually works.
For example, I never stated or inferred that the Start button needed to be pressed twice to listen to the radio. That is simply one way to keep the audio system operating. Not the only one. And it eliminates the blower motor, warning lights etc. As I explained in my previous posts.

So I’m not sure why you even mentioned that.
And I clearly stated how pressing the Audio power button works. Using the Audio power button allows us to listen to the Audio system with the vehicle off, and eliminates the audio system turning off when a front door is opened. That is a fact you can check, but it was covered in my previous replies However, I do always recommend we check things for ourselves and not assume others know the answers. 🤗

In addition, you did not cover some of the variables that I did, until attempting to do so just now.
I covered the variables, and others understood it. There are essentially 3 main modes, according to how and when the Start button is pressed (essentially 3 different modes). And I covered pressing the Audio power button and how that works.

Again, others understand and can use the information to their benefit. Instead of me repeating it all, please reread my previous posts.

Good luck. 🍻
Always with the snarky comments. I am just saying that when you say ignition on mode without pushing the brakes, Lincoln displays "Full Accessory Mode" on the 48 in display. Many may know it by that name.

Thanks for playing.
 
Always with the snarky comments. I am just saying that when you say ignition on mode without pushing the brakes, Lincoln displays "Full Accessory Mode" on the 48 in display. Many may know it by that name.

Thanks for playing.
Hi angore. “Always with the snarky comments”. 😂
There was nothing “snarky” in my previous reply.
However, “Thanks for playing” is snarky, and an immature statement.

And I am providing additional information, while correcting some incorrect information.

However, you weakly attempting to insult my replies in order to cover the fact you provided some incorrect information and guesses is childish. And snarky.
Perhaps I should be snarky and point out that you have an inherent habit of posting incorrect guesses and information, and then ghosting your inaccuracies.

So first…No, that is “…not all you said”. And not wanting to endlessly debate you about the obvious is not being snarky.

You have a basic misunderstanding of several issues, and decided to guess before you find things out.
- Like your comment about pushing the audio power button. No, if the audio power button is pushed, the audio power does not turn off when you open a door. Next time test before speaking, not afterwards.

-Or, how you quoted/copied and pasted an old version of the BMS in your earlier post. You know why? You stated…
“2. Turn ignition switch to on (don't start car). (assume accessory mode).”
Well, there is no longer a “turn the ignition switch to on”. That was for keyed ignitions, not push buttons starts. Will those instructions work for others now? There has been conflicting accounts.

Those are only two examples.

So again, there are three types of accessory modes where we can use the audio system, windows, blower motor etc.

They are as follows:
“Ignition On” mode- Pressing the Start button once (foot off brake) places the vehicle systems into “Ignition On” mode. (“Turn the ignition switch to on”…remember saying that earlier?)
The dashboard warning lights lights illuminate, blower motor will run audio system and power windows will operate etc. It will also drain the most battery power, for those interested. And that’s what this thread was all about.

“Delayed Accessory” mode- On the other hand, pressing the Start button twice (foot off the brake will place the vehicle systems into “Accessory Mode” (or more accurately, “Delayed Accessory Mode”).
In this case, the dashboard warning lights, blower motor etc. do not run. Only the Audio system and power windows will have power to operate. And they will turn off after 10 minutes. That is the “Delayed Accessory Mode”, as controlled by the battery saver feature.
This mode comes in handy when we want to listen to the audio system or use the windows without the full power drain of the Ignition on mode.

“Accessory Mode”- After the 10 minute “Delayed Accessory Mode” timeout (and at other times), we can then access the Audio System alone by pressing the Audio system power button. Doing so will turn the Audio system back on.
This is Accessory mode. Be patient though, because it can sometimes take several seconds to power back up. And if you press it a second time before it powers up, you’ll turn it off.
Again, this mode comes in handy when we want to listen to the audio system or use the windows without the full power drain of the Ignition on mode )and Delayed Accessory Mode gas times out), without having to go through the foot-off-the-brake-two-push-of-the-Start button dance again.
The audio system will keep running until it is turned off. Opening a door does not turn it off. There are several ways to turn it off.

You may have trouble understanding how our vehicles actually operate and did not find this information useful. Others did understand my information and found it useful. That is all that matters to me.

Good luck.
 
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Since you do not have a Nautilus you do not understand what I am stating,
 
Since you do not have a Nautilus you do not understand what I am stating,
Hi angore. I understand exactly what you were/are saying. So we can dispense with the “you don’t own one”.

All current Lincoln ignition systems, and the accessory modes, operate the same way.

Nautilus, Corsair, Aviator, Navigator, and the final generations of the Continental and MKZ.

In addition, I am quite well acquainted with how all those vehicles operate. I don’t need to test or guess.

The information has been provided, so let’s just move on.

Good luck.
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…a significant story arc in the splendid film Apollo 13.
Indeed! Ron Howard did a spectacular job...The book it is based on is incredible, one of my top 5 of all time.
James Lovell, "Lost Moon" is a must read!
 
Do you the Lincoln engineers are a lab trying to something similar on power needed to start and save while off? They need to do a bit more work.
 
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Indeed! Ron Howard did a spectacular job...The book it is based on is incredible, one of my top 5 of all time.
James Lovell, "Lost Moon" is a must read!
Hi Steve_C. You are correct. Both are incredible books! And a spectacular job on the movie!

Good luck! 🍻
 
Do you the Lincoln engineers are a lab trying to something similar on power needed to start and save while off? They need to do a bit more work.
I think they're just waiting until they can switch to the Jules Verne Nautilus sodium-mercury batteries...
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I made it back to Houston without issue, but I did get the remote functions disabled message a couple more times, mostly after packing the vehicle to depart after leaving trunk and doors open for a while etc.
I would like to test the voltage of the battery. I purchased a multimeter to do so. Is there a way to do this under the hood for the hybrid, or do I have to take the spare tire out to access the battery from the trunk?

I see a positive terminal under the hood but not finding a negative. Thanks!
 
I made it back to Houston without issue, but I did get the remote functions disabled message a couple more times, mostly after packing the vehicle to depart after leaving trunk and doors open for a while etc.
I would like to test the voltage of the battery. I purchased a multimeter to do so. Is there a way to do this under the hood for the hybrid, or do I have to take the spare tire out to access the battery from the trunk?

I see a positive terminal under the hood but not finding a negative. Thanks!
Just use a good chassis ground. Here's the two points recommended for jumping.

1000011350.webp
 
Dig the negative ground pin in a bit. The positive should already be clean as it was covered. Other than that…??? That's that accurate. You should be getting something.
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Dig the negative ground pin in a bit. The positive should already be clean as it was covered. Other than that…??? That's that accurate. You should be getting something.
I got it. Thanks! The reading was 12.3 or so.
 
Do multimeter still have voltage ranges
My digital has a 0 to 2 and a 2 to 20 dc range. The tall bolt is what I use for noco too.
 
Do multimeter still have voltage ranges
My digital has a 0 to 2 and a 2 to 20 dc range. The tall bolt is what I use for noco too.
Yes, although less common and typically with cheaper models. I probably have a half dozen around the house. 😄

Although, even the auto-ranging will usually let you lock in a range. If you have a varying voltage that keeps switching ranges it can drive you batty.
 
Do multimeter still have voltage ranges
My digital has a 0 to 2 and a 2 to 20 dc range. The tall bolt is what I use for noco too.
Yeah I didn’t have a 20 so I went to 60. The reading was 12.3 or 12.39, not sure, but that sounds OK from what I have read.

The GLC 300 which stayed unused in the Houston garage for 10 weeks was on a trickle charger, but either the charger is bad or it wasn’t connected correctly. Everything was blinking when I got in today on the trickle charger. Haven’t had a chance to lookup the meaning. I received a very low battery notice from Mercedes about a month ago. I fully expected to come home to a dead battery, but the car did start. Drove it around for a while, but still getting low battery notices. It read 11.8 using the voltmeter after I drove it around. Will drive it around some more tonight.
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Maybe there's was a power glitch or outage, and the trickle charger didn't restart properly.

If it reads 11.8 after driving, your battery may be pretty toasty, need replacement. You may have a lot of sulfation, or be borderline on a 12V battery cell failing.

You could try putting it on a trickle charger overnight, but it should probably get tested. If it's a full size 12v battery, an AutoZone or similar would likely do that free, follow-up with your Mercedes dealer if it's under warranty and the outside test indicates it's bad.

If it's a smaller 12v battery, like in the Lincoln or Lexus hybrids, AutoZone may or may not be able to do a good test, but it doesn't hurt to ask 😀
 
Some good points from @markfm. Many of the trickle chargers need to be initialized. A power glitch could easily have caused that.

It does sound like the Mercedes battery is poor, but it takes a quite a bit of charging to bring the voltage up. Even for a good battery, 11.8V isn't terrible for a short drive. You'll know more after a long night of charging — ideally a multi-Amp charger. I have one that goes up to 15A that still takes hours to restore a dead battery.
 
From my measurements immediately after a drive, the battery voltage will rise a little once it rests.
 
Maybe there's was a power glitch or outage, and the trickle charger didn't restart properly.

If it reads 11.8 after driving, your battery may be pretty toasty, need replacement. You may have a lot of sulfation, or be borderline on a 12V battery cell failing.

You could try putting it on a trickle charger overnight, but it should probably get tested. If it's a full size 12v battery, an AutoZone or similar would likely do that free, follow-up with your Mercedes dealer if it's under warranty and the outside test indicates it's bad.

If it's a smaller 12v battery, like in the Lincoln or Lexus hybrids, AutoZone may or may not be able to do a good test, but it doesn't hurt to ask 😀
Some good points from @markfm. Many of the trickle chargers need to be initialized. A power glitch could easily have caused that.

It does sound like the Mercedes battery is poor, but it takes a quite a bit of charging to bring the voltage up. Even for a good battery, 11.8V isn't terrible for a short drive. You'll know more after a long night of charging — ideally a multi-Amp charger. I have one that goes up to 15A that still takes hours to restore a dead battery.
There was definitely a power outage or glitch as the clock in my bedroom is blinking. That is probably what happened. I need to buy a unit that can overcome an outage. We have a unit in Florida charging a twenty year old CRV and it always works. There are always power glitches in Florida and Houston! I do think the battery is toast as driving it on the highway tonight didn’t do the trick. It’s the original battery, soon to be five years old.
 
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