2010 Lincoln Town Car Trunk Lid problems

[garysalas]

Thanks. I have done what you suggested, but as I stated, the 'bouncing back' occurred before everything stopped working. My problem now is figuring out why nothing is working with the trunk lid assist.
Also, I found the diagram you sent to me in my 2010 Workshop manual (501-14-68.) Does anyone know where I can find information about the Trunk Lid Assist motor in this manual? And, I can't find the stinking fuse diagrams in this manual either.

Please assist me. This is driving me crazy!

I have a 2011 Lincoln Town Car. my trunk lid just didn't work so I decided to replace both motors. the one for the latch and the one for trunk lid arm. no joy. there is a box behind the back seat on the left side. once I replace that everything worked. its a small black box 6 inches by 6 inches if I remember. don't know what the part is called. its the only box on the left side.

 

[g_793131]

thanks town, i don't have time now but i will post info on my problem tonite or tomorrow. thanks again, cal

my problem was the trunk latch was bad. 3 bolts or screws, and a electrical plug in, very simple to install, only cost 82 bucks online, it fixed my problem . thanks

 

[Vince shanklin]

I have replaced the motor that does the last bit of closing and nothing has changed, thus nothing works as related to the power assist for the trunk lid. I have seen that there is a motor on the 'shelf' of the trunk (left side). I suspect this motor is responsible fr most of the opening and closing of the trunk lid. What now? Replace that motor too?

 

[gtowle]

I have a 2010 Lincoln Town Car with 21000 miles. The problems just started today with the trunk lid. At first, I heard a 'clicking' noise right after I used the power assist to close the trunk. But, it closed fine this time. Later on, the power assist closed the lid, but the lid wouldn't close all the way down. Now, nothing is working. Checked fuses, each one is fine. It seems to me that I have two seperate problems...am I correct? If so, what now???

same problem 2010 Lincoln town car turned out to be a bad ground. at the 3wire connector going in to the hold down I just cut the ground wire before the plug, and spliced a good ground in and plunged it back in. it went from nothing happening to every thing working perfectly
Gary from tucson

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[outdoorsy81]

I have a 2011 and I saw this on ebay pull down motor with a module pn# 3W1T-104A18-AB for my vehicle. The one I have in the car, the assembly doesn't have the module nor I can find the female plug in the trunk area.
Very confused...

 

[Town2010Car]

Welcome to the Forum.

Unfortunately Town2010car joined on 23 March 2018 and last visited on 24 March 2018. So s/he never updated us with a resolution, somewhat typical I'm sorry to say.

Did you try manually closing the latch with a screwdriver blade? Sometimes it is best to start a new thread with your symptoms and see what happens. It can get confusing when a number of seemingly similar problems are documented in one thread.

Good luck.

Town2010Car has tried many things, but never resolved the problem in the correct way. I put the car in storage and got busy with a new job in a different state. Now that I have some free time and the weather is getting better, I'm trying again to solve the problem. Between March 2018 and now, I just disconnected the latch motor and all associated circuitry and used the trunk lid manually (which means I have to slam it to get it to be latched down tight).

If I come up with any other type of solution - I will post it.

 

[Town2010Car]

Lesson learned: Do not keep jumper cables in the trunk! Solving the problem took a long time.

When I got my 2010 Towncar out of storage, the battery was strong enough to start it - but after shutting off the engine - I left the dome light on for about 30 minutes, and then the battery was too run down so I couldn't start the engine again. I got the jumper cables out of the trunk using the remote (battery wasn’t totally dead). After getting the car started, the trunk would not work properly (latch would not pull down.)
Talking to the dealership was no help. I purchased used modules at the junk yard for the DDM, the pull down motor, the control circuit, and the decklid closer. Changing them made NO difference. (So now I have spare modules.)

Today (using the original modules) I did the following WITHOUT DISCONNECTING A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY: 1) I removed the cover from the deck lid (trunk) latch with pull down motor, and disconnected power from pull down motor. 2) I used a long extension wire to get battery power to pull down motor and applied power until latch was totally pulled down. 3) Closed deck lid (you may need to slam it a little). 4) Removed the following fuses in the following order - Passenger Compartment fuse 8 (10 A, PDM) fuse 19 (7.5 A, DDM) - Engine Compartment fuse 8 (20 A, DDM), fuse 108 (40 A, PDM). 5) measured all fuses (they were all good) and replaced them in the reverse order. 6) Push the trunk release on the key fob. I had to push the release button a few times - and things finally began working. Now everything works correctly!

Hope this helps someone.

 

[Ronn]

I have a 2011 Town Car and I started having the same symptomwtoms today. Everything was fine yesterday. Keep in mind a 2007 is not the same as a 2010. I agree that the problem is probably in the latch. The latch is the focal point that triggers all events from the 2 supporting systems. It is the source that knows when the lid is up. It is the source that knows when the lid needs to be snugged up after closure. I did a lot of the above mentioned diagnostics today. I am headed for the junk yard tomorrow and hopefully I find a compatible latch. Yesterday My latch would make a ratchet sound prior to starting closure.

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[yousefkhallaf]

Howdy!

My 2008 Lincoln Town car trunk won't close. also, I clicked twice on the key (trunk button) and still not working and I tried the door button but still not working. anyone know how to fix it or if i took it to ford/Lincoln dealer how much will cost me to check it and to fix it?.

Thanks

 

[Michael Willett]

I tried that - but - I can't get the lid to pull down...it latches, but stays about 1" open - so the car still thinks it has an open trunk (the dash display confirms this with an open trunk indication)! And so - when trying this "re-initialization" it can't begin with a closed trunk.

I have the exact same problem with my 2008 Lincoln Towncar Signature L.
I have replaced the entire latch mechanism to latch the trunk. It's what pulls down the trunk the last inch or so. that did not fix the problem I am having. I then replaced the Radio Amplifier as I would hear it click when actuating the trunk pull down. I looked online and that has been the fix for a couple of the other cars on line. Of course that also did not work.
I can't get the key fob or trunk close button to work on the door either until I pull the plugs on the radio amplifier in the trunk. Then the key fob and trunk close button on the door work to pull down the trunk. However it still will not latch the trunk as it just pops back up. It can be closed manually after a couple of times closing the lid but still will not pull down completely. after a short time the key fob and drivers trunk door button will fail to work at all again. All fuses and relays are good.
This whole issue started when I put my spare donut back into the trunk but did not get it into the compartment good enough. The trunk closed down but it hit the tire and did not latch. I pushed it down by hand before I knew what had caused it. Everything developed from there. Getting tired of this issue so would appreciate any help.

 

[Michael Willett]

I've got a book of wiring diagrams for 2007 TC. If you think you can troubleshoot from them; I'll scan and post.

I am having the same probelm with my 2008 Lincoln Towncar trunk. If you still have those diagrams I would love to have them.

 

[Michael Willett]

I have the exact same problem with my 2008 Lincoln Towncar Signature L.
I have replaced the entire latch mechanism to latch the trunk. It's what pulls down the trunk the last inch or so. that did not fix the problem I am having. I then replaced the Radio Amplifier as I would hear it click when actuating the trunk pull down. I looked online and that has been the fix for a couple of the other cars on line. Of course that also did not work.
I can't get the key fob or trunk close button to work on the door either until I pull the plugs on the radio amplifier in the trunk. Then the key fob and trunk close button on the door work to pull down the trunk. However it still will not latch the trunk as it just pops back up. It can be closed manually after a couple of times closing the lid but still will not pull down completely. after a short time the key fob and drivers trunk door button will fail to work at all again. All fuses and relays are good.
This whole issue started when I put my spare donut back into the trunk but did not get it into the compartment good enough. The trunk closed down but it hit the tire and did not latch. I pushed it down by hand before I knew what had caused it. Everything developed from there. Getting tired of this issue so would appreciate any help.

Update on my problem with the tunk latching: I finally replaced the Trunk Lock Latch Actuator. I found a used one on EBAY for $79.95 for my car. It was easy to replace and finally fixed my problems.

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[KenPrescott]

Its amazing how nobody van solve this

 

[raiderfan247365]

Its amazing how nobody van solve this

Well, I wouldn't say no one solved this, I've been following this thread and a few users have solved their issues with the trunk not latching properly.

Here is what I've gathered:

-Bad fuse (check all fuses associated with trunk)
-Bad latch (the part that the lock actuator connects to)
-Trunk lock actuator (this seems to be the most common issue for folks)
-Bad wiring (over time the wires can get worn from the open and close motion of the trunk. This is probably the worst case scenario for a home mechanic as it can be difficult to diagnose
-Bad trunk switch in door panel (probably the least likely culprit)

Have you ruled out all those possibilities?

 

[mack p kreizenbeck]

I've got a book of wiring diagrams for 2007 TC. If you think you can troubleshoot from them; I'll scan and post.

If you are still willing, I'd like to see if the book has a schematic of the trunk wiring. There are five wires involved, as far as I can determine and I'd like to see where they are supposed to go.
Thank you,
Mack

 

[wimpy]

I finally solved this issue with my 09 by replacing the tiny spring in the (normally covered by plastic) trunk lid latching mechanism. I don't know if this can be considered a fix, but after replacing the spring, the trunk lid has closed without a problem.

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[wimpy]

Here's a step by step electrical diagnosis courtesy of JustAnswer:
The Luggage Compartment Lid Release Is Inoperative/Does Not Operate Correctly
Normal Operation
The Battery Junction Box (BJB) fuse 8 (20A) provides voltage for the power lock/unlock system and to the luggage compartment lid latch (on vehicles without power luggage compartment lid release). The voltage is supplied to the Driver Door Module (DDM) through circuit 1213 (WH/LB). The luggage compartment lid release switch receives voltage from the Central Junction Box (CJB) through circuit 1524 (DB). When the luggage compartment release switch is pressed, voltage is supplied through the switch to the DDM through circuit 26 (WH/VT).

For vehicles not equipped with a power luggage compartment lid, the DDM supplies voltage through circuit 605 (RD) to the luggage compartment release solenoid, releasing the luggage compartment lid. The luggage compartment lid release solenoid is grounded through circuit 57 (BK).

For vehicles equipped with a power luggage compartment lid, the DDM sends a ground signal to the Liftgate/Trunk Module (LTM) on circuit 1237 (LG/RD) to open or close the luggage compartment lid.
The luggage compartment lid release switch is disabled when the perimeter alarm is armed. Once the perimeter alarm is disabled, the luggage compartment lid can be released from the release switch.

• DTC B1553 (Decklid Release Circuit Short To Battery) — a continuous and on-demand DTC that sets when the DDM detects a short to voltage on the luggage compartment lid release switch input circuit 26 (WH/VT). The DTC is also set if the luggage compartment lid release switch is pressed for longer than 2 minutes.
• DTC B2718 (Liftgate/Decklid Ajar Output Short to Battery) — a continuous and on-demand DTC that sets when the DDM detects a short to voltage on the luggage compartment lid release output circuit 605 (RD).
• DTC B2703 (Open/Close Switch Stuck Active) — a continuous and on-demand DTC that sets when the LTM detects a short to ground on the open/close input signal circuit 1237 (LG/RD).

This pinpoint test is intended to diagnose the following:

• Fuse
• Wiring, terminals or connectors
• Luggage compartment lid release solenoid (part of the luggage compartment lid latch)
• Luggage compartment lid release switch
• DDM
• LTM

 

[wimpy]

These files are also relevant.

 

[raiderfan247365]

FYI, I finally got around to replacing my lock actuator and can confirm it solved my power trunk issues.

 

[Bob1985]

Welcome to the Forum.

Since the trunk lid was open when your battery lost power, it is likely the trunk lid motor needs to be re-initialized. You disconnect the battery, close the trunk and re-connect the battery. Then operate one of the trunk opening controls (door switch button, remote fob or the keypad) to open and then close the trunk. Trunk operation should return to proper operation. Attached is the procedure to do this.

Good luck.

Thank you! It works, thanks for your time to post it!