2024 Nautilus software and battery issues

[angore]

Here is a longish video on the battery monitoring system.

 

[angore]

NOKO sent this to me …
View attachment 21716

From experience so far on my battery the resting voltage starts at 12.7v (solid green) but it will drop to at least 12.5v before the maintenance mode starts the charge cycle. From what I see on Internet from various AGM battery makers, the full charge can range from 12.7 to 13v. I will contact Noco.

 

[Black Label]

Here is a longish video on the battery monitoring system.

Excellent video! I was watching a lot of his videos a few years ago. Actually took my '08 Expedition to him for a spark plug change. Weird dude but very knowledgeable.

He said some things that some of us have already said. The batteries aren't bad, and there are so many loads on these new vehicles, they require long drives or occasional charging. I have posted many times, and if anyone else watched this whole video, he mentioned many times the BCM. Also mentioned the door lock procedure for the BCM to re-learn the battery state of charge.

In my case, as I have mentioned, my BCM also needed to be re-programmed. What I did not know until watching this, is that I have been re-charging with my Noco Genius 10 incorrectly. I had been placing the negative charger right on the neg. terminal. That explains why I would charge overnight and it could still take 30+ minutes and maybe multiple drives before Auto Stop/Start would begin functioning again. I was charging on the wrong side of the sensor.

Thanks for posting this!

 

[swindler]

What I did not know until watching this, is that I have been re-charging with my Noco Genius 10 incorrectly. I had been placing the negative charger right on the neg. terminal. That explains why I would charge overnight and it could still take 30+ minutes and maybe multiple drives before Auto Stop/Start would begin functioning again. I was charging on the wrong side of the sensor.

Thanks for posting this!

I'm so glad this information was fruitful for you, and I'm sure many others. This forum is a great source of information. If you look back, we had a few posts in this thread talking about where to place the negative clamp beginning at post #269.

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[Black Label]

I'm so glad this information was fruitful for you, and I'm sure many others. This forum is a great source of information. If you look back, we had a few posts in this thread talking about where to place the negative clamp beginning at post #269.

Yep, I missed those, just like all the people who have missed my posts about the BCM lol!

 

[Steve_C]

Actually, I think a better solution would be one with it's own shunt resistor so you can monitor current draw as well. But this was on sale at the time.

It is not a better solution.... It is the only solution!
Grand Prize to Swindler for taking it to the next level!
I was wondering when someone was going to realize the value of amperage draw is the end all in determining the health of a battery, as well as determining possible excessive draws on the same!

I am enjoying my popcorn watching this thread thinking....what are all you folks going to do with the voltage info you are monitoring with your new Ancel BM300 monitors? ( Spoiler Alert: Dead End Street Ahead! ) Absolutely nothing! Don't get me wrong, it is a nice toy. I am looking forward to a few nice spreadsheets being posted shortly.

You need to monitor your amperage draw. With that, your understanding of batteries opens up a new universe in diagnosing!
You will attain battery basics 101 Nervana!

I opined about cranking voltage values before. Cranking Voltage in itself is useless unless you understand where to go from there...only tells you you have a problem, not what the problem is! As I posted previously, I have seen many a decent mechanic (and bad ones) led astray into the "misdiagnosing fog" by not understanding Cranking Voltage!

 

[olderbudweiser]

In my attempt to be a pain. I have tried looking at the owners manual on line to find the minimum speed/miles needed to be driven daily, weekly or monthly to keep the battery healthy. Still have not found the instructions mandating a charger to make the 2024 Lincoln Nauatilis Hybrid available to use. If it’s not in the owners manual and a charger was not supplied with your vehicle, it is not necessary. If ones vehicle is not holding a proper charge between usage it is somehow defective.


Why not every time a low battery condition occurs making vehicle unusable call Lincoln and have it towed to the dealer. If they can’t fix it, buy it back.

Been lucky so far only once had a issue. Although other day map disappeared from the 48" screen still was on the center stack. Took about 2 days then it fixed itself. Gremlins were busy.

 

[Steve_C]

In my attempt to be a pain. I have tried looking at the owners manual on line to find the minimum speed/miles needed to be driven daily, weekly or monthly to keep the battery healthy. Still have not found the instructions mandating a charger to make the 2024 Lincoln Nauatilis Hybrid available to use. If it’s not in the owners manual and a charger was not supplied with your vehicle, it is not necessary. If ones vehicle is not holding a proper charge between usage it is somehow defective.


Why not every time a low battery condition occurs making vehicle unusable call Lincoln and have it towed to the dealer. If they can’t fix it, buy it back.

Been lucky so far only once had a issue. Although other day map disappeared from the 48" screen still was on the center stack. Took about 2 days then it fixed itself. Gremlins were busy.

Well Said! I agree.

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[markfm]

...

You need to monitor your amperage draw. With that, your understanding of batteries opens up a new universe in diagnosing!
You will attain battery basics 101 Nervana!
...

Of course, with that PITA-to-access cabin fuse box location it gets to be a drag if someone actually wants to understand where the current draws are coming from (I'm not saying people should have to do this - the car shouldn't need diagnosing by owners - but some of us are the "inquiring minds want to know" types )

 

[JMAB]

Of course, with that PITA-to-access cabin fuse box location it gets to be a drag if someone actually wants to understand where the current draws are coming from (I'm not saying people should have to do this - the car shouldn't need diagnosing by owners - but some of us are the "inquiring minds want to know" types )

They did bury that box deep !

You could always plug in one of these and download the free FoMoCo diagnostic software and monitor to your hearts content !!! I just put it on my Christmas wish list and hoping I don't end up with a lump FoMoCoal....

Amazon.com

 

[markfm]

They did bury that box deep !

You could always plug in one of these and download the free FoMoCo diagnostic software and monitor to your hearts content !!! I just put it on my Christmas wish list and hoping I don't end up with a lump FoMoCoal....

Amazon.com

Unfortunately it isn't clear that it would actually be useful for monitoring/assessing unintended parasitic drains, where the net idea is to pick up what particular things are consuming power, and how much draw, when the car is nominally turned off:
"When you turn off your engine, OBDLink MX+ goes to sleep and won't drain your automobile's battery. Its sophisticated triggers will wake up MX+ when you connect via Bluetooth, unlock doors, or crank the engine."

Did you reach out to the supplier, find out if they actually support any '24 Nautilus-specific codes? I believe some OBD tools may be good for "older" vehicles, but the tool manufacturers don't always have their software updated for the latest car models (it takes time to do).

While tracking current is the right thing to do for definitive diagnosis, and hard data on the precise current draws (for instance, do current monitoring on each fuse, one per night, see where the draws are in the data collected the next morning), the BT Voltage battery monitors are valid for getting a feel for how things are going, and can help provide an idea if certain things might be causes, plus give a user a warning message if the voltage is getting low (needs a charger top-off).

Simple Example: I wonder if my keyfob or phone is doing a lot of vehicle wakeups (maybe a faraday pouch for the keyfob would help, or putting the phone app into the Deep Sleep category (on my Android Samsung phone). I could start by getting a baseline voltage drop curve over several nights, then top off the battery. Next see if there's a change in the rate of voltage change over several nights with the fob stored in a faraday pouch, e if the village drop decrease a bit. For the phone, I could monitor over a couple nights with the app active, get a baseline/trend, then try putting the phone app into the Deep Sleep category for a few days and see if the drop over time decreases.

In my case, with my wife rarely driving our second car, I'll likely get a monitor for hers just so I don't have to go and do a manual voltage check every week or so (no garage, keeping it constantly on a maintainer would be a hassle).

If someone wants to monitor the main battery current draw, there are BT current monitors out there, too. I'm seeing a 10mA resolution, +/- 10mA accuracy, 500A shunt, unit at around $150, though there are almost certainly more accurate and/or cheaper ones.

 

[angore]

My Nautilus has been sitting for 5 days in the garage with the noco attached without any interaction, The hood is up.

The battery voltage over the last 3 days (checking manually) is staying around 12.5V (solid green on noco) after starting around 12.7v (solid green). I did get a response from noco and said 12.5v may be normal for the battery for the battery.

I have not caught it in maintenance mode (slow blink green on noco) in several days but do not have one of the battery logging monitors yet.

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[Hugo Drivenow]

I’ll report what happened today. But first, know that I try to stay ahead of battery issues by putting the 2024 Nautilus 2.0 ICE on a Delran Battery Tender every weekend when I know my wife won’t drive it for more than 3 days in a row. The Battery Tender usually goes to full trickle charge within a day, so I know the battery is always at peak charge.

OK, Thursday, she drove it 160 miles, no problem. (She deactivates auto-off all the time.). Parked it in the garage Thursday, and Friday (yesterday) I popped the hood to put it on the tender. The car made some odd clunks and clicks it usually didn’t make when I popped the hood. I put the Tender cable on.

Today we went to start it to back it out of the garage to get access to our lawn tractor, and the remote didn’t work, and the Tender was still in full red light charge mode. The car was dead as a door nail. The app notified us the car has gone into deep sleep due to low battery detection….while on the charger?!? I got in with the physical key, and there was nothing I could do after that.

We are currently waiting for Lincoln roadside assistance to jump it to see if it can at least wake the battery up. Then will keep both fobs in a Farraday box and put it back on the Tender. Then will see if it starts up Monday morning.

We are hoping the fobs are contributing to the parasitic drain, because, while not a perfect solution, at least if the fobs are contained in a Faraday bag, and that’s the fix, I can deal with that for now.

The fact we have a brand new $60,000 Lincoln that we won’t know if it will start or not is ridiculous. All software updates are up to date.

Insult to injury is my wife traded in her beautiful Lacrosse because of electrical gremlins.

Meanwhile I have an 18 year old Mustang GT…. THAT STARTS EVERY…. DAMN ….TIME.

 

[swindler]

I’ll report what happened today. But first, know that I try to stay ahead of battery issues by putting the 2024 Nautilus 2.0 ICE on a Delran Battery Tender every weekend when I know my wife won’t drive it for more than 3 days in a row. The Battery Tender usually goes to full trickle charge within a day, so I know the battery is always at peak charge.

OK, Thursday, she drove it 160 miles, no problem. (She deactivates auto-off all the time.). Parked it in the garage Thursday, and Friday (yesterday) I popped the hood to put it on the tender. The car made some odd clunks and clicks it usually didn’t make when I popped the hood. I put the Tender cable on.

Today we went to start it to back it out of the garage to get access to our lawn tractor, and the remote didn’t work, and the Tender was still in full red light charge mode. The car was dead as a door nail. The app notified us the car has gone into deep sleep due to low battery detection….while on the charger?!? I got in with the physical key, and there was nothing I could do after that.

We are currently waiting for Lincoln roadside assistance to jump it to see if it can at least wake the battery up. Then will keep both fobs in a Farraday box and put it back on the Tender. Then will see if it starts up Monday morning.

We are hoping the fobs are contributing to the parasitic drain, because, while not a perfect solution, at least if the fobs are contained in a Faraday bag, and that’s the fix, I can deal with that for now.

The fact we have a brand new $60,000 Lincoln that we won’t know if it will start or not is ridiculous. All software updates are up to date.

Insult to injury is my wife traded in her beautiful Lacrosse because of electrical gremlins.

Meanwhile I have an 18 year old Mustang GT…. THAT STARTS EVERY…. DAMN ….TIME.

The Deltran (depending on model) doesn't provide that much current. We had one go dead in 90 minutes after driving for a half hour (all latest fixes). This is not a parasitic drain issue. This is a high drain issue, and a Deltran would not keep up. We've seen it once in 2200 miles, but no clue if or when it could happen again.

 

[angore]

The battery must have completely died especially if kept it charged. If it will not accept the charge it is usually gone and from my experience it can sometimes so bad you cannot jump without removing the battery.

 

[swindler]

The battery must have completely died especially if kept it charged. If it will not accept the charge it is usually gone and from my experience it can sometimes so bad you cannot jump without removing the battery.

FYI, ours was completely dead in the exact manner described. It took roadside assistance a period of charging before the vehicle would wake up, but it's been fine now for two weeks. A tender typically doesn't have the oomph to recover a dead battery.

I'm going to try to perform a CCA test in the next few days to see if it's capacity is lower, but we haven't noticed anything and we drive it only 2-3 times a week.

We do have a service appt scheduled for 8/6 to have this (and other things) checked.

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[markfm]

I'm curious what a CCA test would be on a hybrid. I didn't think the little 12V is actually used to start the car, though I could be wrong.

 

[Hugo Drivenow]

OK, I have an update already. Lincoln dispatched to a local towing company to jump start. Who shows up, but a good friend of ours we have known for 20 years! He put a jump box on it and the car started within 2 minutes!

Here is what he told us.

He sees this all the time, he is constantly jump starting this vehicle and vehicles like this. He said the computers in these cars are constantly working and the batteries have not been upgraded to handle the constant drain. He said probably the long trip my wife took Thursday in the brutal heat stressed the battery and it just locked up during the cool down. He said to drive the car for 30 minutes, which is being done now, and yes, put those %$#@! Fobs in a Faraday box! We have one and will make sure both keys are in it now at all times. I got a set of Faraday bags for her purse during the day.

He also stressed the importance to use a jump box and not to ever jump start these cars from car to car, as there can be electronic issues that can affect either car in a bad way.

I’m only relating what just happened and what I have been told by someone with over 25 years experience. And it sounds about right and makes sense to me.

The battery did not run down dead and seemed to just go low enough to trigger the sleep mode. It took the jump charge very well and very fast. Within 30 seconds of hook up the electronics woke up, and we got it started in less than 2 minutes of hook up. I think the constant weekend trickle charges on the Tender helped it from going too low to take a jump.

So for now these fobs will always be shielded when not in use and I’m ordering a jump box.

 

[swindler]

I'm curious what a CCA test would be on a hybrid. I didn't think the little 12V is actually used to start the car, though I could be wrong.

No, it's not. But you can perform a CCA test with a proper battery tester. It only needs to apply the proper load for a brief time. You can even perform it with a standalone battery.

 

[swindler]

So for now these fobs will always be shielded when not in use and I’m ordering a jump box.

Both good precautions. FYI, we already had our fobs isolated when our quick drain occurred.