What did you do to your Town Car today ?

Just had my 2004 Lincoln Town Car in for a Paint Correction, Ceramic Pro ION Coating and XPEL XR Window Tint.

Also had NH oil undercoating performed.

BTW.....she only has 22K miles.
 

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The car came outta CA and I imagine it was covered for several years.
I have a question for you ogre01 if you'd be so kind to take a look and lemme know if you have a solution.
I'll post it under a new heading called Mileage reading.
 
So, I'm still making progress on the newly-acquired Signature Limited. I discovered the water leak from under the cowl early on, with the puddle in the rear passenger seat floor.. right after I bought the car and saw that info on this forum. I got it dried out, and with the great help here and on youtube, it went through the car wash 2 days ago without any more drama. (I did leave the carpet lifted up with a folded towel on the floorboard just in case, to catch any water that may come through, but it was dry. I'm thankful, and everything is back together.)

There were two little wet blobs of what seemed to be the old foam gasket that blew out from the upper a/c vent right after the car wash, but hopefully, that wasn't more than a one-off event. I do remember seeing something about a foam gasket on an a/c door, but I can't find that now. I also checked under the front carpet on the drivers side for any leakage from the hood release cable, but it was dry as a bone. I will assure that the cable is well sealed where it comes through.

I was also struggling with the black hold-down 'nut' that is on the engine cover above the alternator.. it was seized and it took many hours of effort to finally get it off. I had to drill it out and grind some slots in the top of the nut so I could tap it off. It was on an M6 stud that went down into the throttle body extender, and would normally be removed with a 1/4" extension, but that had become cammed out.. I think it was prettier than it was functional, so I chose to replace that stud with a M6 - 50mm hex bolt, and I used a washer and wing nut on the top. Not as sexy, but drama-free. I could have also used a 35mm or 40mm bolt and kept the original black nut, but I decided the wing nut was the smarter choice (however, the black nut will be in the glove box if the next owner disagrees.. :cool:

With 101K, I think the spark plugs are the next adventure.
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Had the undercarriage of my '04 Signature coated with Fluid Film. Ohio salts roads in the winter and it's obvious that this one has never seen salt before. Have a couple of buddies that swear by it. And the guy that did it has been doing this for 45years. He must be doing something right. Want to keep it as clean as I can for as long as I can.
 
Had the undercarriage of my '04 Signature coated with Fluid Film. Ohio salts roads in the winter and it's obvious that this one has never seen salt before. Have a couple of buddies that swear by it. And the guy that did it has been doing this for 45years. He must be doing something right. Want to keep it as clean as I can for as long as I can.
Fluid film works well you just have to keep up on the annual inspections and touchups. especially around moving parts
 
Hey MVAudio, give this vid a watch. Neither of mine have had as much debris as this one, but the little tube going to my "flapper" was plugged. It wouldn't leak into the car over a quick car wash, or even for my typical rain. But a long steady rain it would.
So, I'm still making progress on the newly-acquired Signature Limited. I discovered the water leak from under the cowl early on, with the puddle in the rear passenger seat floor.. right after I bought the car and saw that info on this forum. I got it dried out, and with the great help here and on youtube, it went through the car wash 2 days ago without any more drama. (I did leave the carpet lifted up with a folded towel on the floorboard just in case, to catch any water that may come through, but it was dry. I'm thankful, and everything is back together.)

There were two little wet blobs of what seemed to be the old foam gasket that blew out from the upper a/c vent right after the car wash, but hopefully, that wasn't more than a one-off event. I do remember seeing something about a foam gasket on an a/c door, but I can't find that now. I also checked under the front carpet on the drivers side for any leakage from the hood release cable, but it was dry as a bone. I will assure that the cable is well sealed where it comes through.


 
Hey MVAudio, give this vid a watch. Neither of mine have had as much debris as this one, but the little tube going to my "flapper" was plugged. It wouldn't leak into the car over a quick car wash, or even for my typical rain. But a long steady rain it would.



Hey Ogre,
Thanks very much for the tip. I did see that flap had a good bit of debris and cleaned it out good. I think I will try to clean it pretty frequently and hit it with some silicone spray when I get the chance. Maybe that will help a little to keep it from clogging. I did create a cabin filter from an STP 1848P filter, so I will need to change that periodically, and will clean the flap then. I also heard that a cabin filter for a 99-2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a slight trim on one end should fit very nicely. I may try that next time.
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Ran the old girl through the touchless wash on the way home. Still looks good but she's picked up some extra scratches over the 30k miles I've owned her so far. Still need to get the dash pulled to fix my actuator blend door issue.
 
Bought some Armor All weather tech mats that I'll put down starting Dec 1. Was gonna go with top of the line Husky liners but settled for these instead.
 

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Oil change with a fresh filter. Air filter included.
Chassis lubricated and inspected. Noted Idler arm bushings are getting worn. Time to replace that soon.
Tire rotation coming up soon
 
Tried figuring out the sunroof issue. I must be missing parts.. It works like 70% now but it's probably going to have to just get silicone'd shut ='(
 
Tried figuring out the sunroof issue. I must be missing parts.. It works like 70% now but it's probably going to have to just get silicone'd shut ='(
If the moonroof works once, the chance it has missing parts is very low. Worn/broken or defective parts possibly. Missing, I doubt it.
There may be electrical issues or alignment/wear issues. Just not missing parts.
It is possible there is so much resistance to movement that the motor stalls
If you are going to silicone (poor sealant for that job) the roof panel shut, you might instead get a professional to diagnose and repair the issue if you are not up for that.

Otherwise, the best place to start is get the panel open and start cleaning. Clean the drains and clean the opening area. And clean anything that can be reached. Which may get the panel and motor moving easier.
Then lubricate the rubber seals and any other rubber/plastic pieces.
After that lubricate (sparingly) metal hard plastic roller pieces that slide on each other.

Action
 
If the moonroof works once, the chance it has missing parts is very low. Worn/broken or defective parts possibly. Missing, I doubt it.
There may be electrical issues or alignment/wear issues. Just not missing parts.
It is possible there is so much resistance to movement that the motor stalls
If you are going to silicone (poor sealant for that job) the roof panel shut, you might instead get a professional to diagnose and repair the issue if you are not up for that.

Otherwise, the best place to start is get the panel open and start cleaning. Clean the drains and clean the opening area. And clean anything that can be reached. Which may get the panel and motor moving easier.
Then lubricate the rubber seals and any other rubber/plastic pieces.
After that lubricate (sparingly) metal hard plastic roller pieces that slide on each other.

Action
Thank you for the input, i really appreciate it.

I had it all taken apart and cleaned out the rails as well as putting some lube. It all moves freely. If I open it all the way and then go to close it, it pauses when it's half shut. if i press and hold the close button again it will go past being closed until it's at full tilt. Previously with sunroofs I've had, if you held the button to close, it would stop when shut, pressing and holding again would bring it into tilt/vent mode.

Also when I finally finesse it into being shut, it's very easy to press the glass up and move it's location. When it's bright out I'll have to take a video of what it does and start a thread. Any help with this would be appreciated. Would really hate to have to seal it up.
 
If I understand the concern ......

The panel does not stop at the close position when coming back from fully open.
That would be a sensor issue.
The system does not recognize the panel is fully closed so it continues to the flip up position.

The pause before closing fully is normal for most powered roofs. This is a common venting position.

When it is closed, you stated, " t's very easy to press the glass up and move it's location."
At the rear of the glass panel?
Or anywhere at the panel?

Track alignment may be a factor here.

Action
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If I understand the concern ......

The panel does not stop at the close position when coming back from fully open.
That would be a sensor issue.
The system does not recognize the panel is fully closed so it continues to the flip up position.

The pause before closing fully is normal for most powered roofs. This is a common venting position.

When it is closed, you stated, " t's very easy to press the glass up and move it's location."
At the rear of the glass panel?
Or anywhere at the panel?

Track alignment may be a factor here.

Action

Got it, I didn't know there is a sensor. I will have to try looking into that.

It's really easy along the back, not quite as easy but still possible along the front. If I have it in place and swing the door shut the back of sunroof will start to drop down. can just tell it's not very solid in there.

Was just made aware that there is some info on troubleshooting the sunroof in the service manual. Guy on another forum said it's in there but not trying to share. Hoping maybe I can find someone who might or I'll just order a service manual myself.
 
Shop manual is an excellent source of information if you are going to work on your Town Car.
There are at least a dozen copies on eBay listed for sale, starting at $20.46 for a beat up copy.

My experience is based on a VIII. The Town Car (which I have never taken apart) may be slightly different.

Action
 
Shop manual is an excellent source of information if you are going to work on your Town Car.
There are at least a dozen copies on eBay listed for sale, starting at $20.46 for a beat up copy.

My experience is based on a VIII. The Town Car (which I have never taken apart) may be slightly different.

Action
I'm going to get one soon but buddy did send over a pic from the manual concerning timing/calibrating the motor. almost positive this is going to be a big part of my issue.

Also slapped some new hood struts on :D
 
Installed a remanufactured Motorcraft Alternator, new front wheel bearing/hubs, new front sway bar links, and flushed all 4 brakes.
 
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