Power for camera and/or radar detector

[System]

Yes, they go in the same holes were the wires already are. You're on the power side of the connector so those are the same wires powering the mirror when the harness is connected...

 

[NJRonbo]

Yesterday was the day! With a wealth of confidence thanks to the photos and help I had received to date, I started the installation of my radar detector.

EASY: I pulled out and snapped open the large center mirror console by inserting my thumb under it.

CUMBERSOME: It took about 15 minutes for me to figure out how to remove the wiring enclosure. As @Sharbotcom had indicated, there is a latch at the bottom right of the housing. However, I suppose my fingers were too fat to get in there, press the latch and pull the two enclosures apart. I eventually was able to do it, however.

SEVERAL ATTEMPTS: Figuring out the wiretap was easy. Red to White and Black to Black. Problem was, the taps kept slipping out. It took several attempts and moving up to a thicker wiretap to finally get power to the radar detector. I secured the wires with electrical tape to prevent slippage during vehicle vibration.

I then installed a BLENDMOUT on my rearview mirror. Their directions are difficult to follow, but I finally figured it out and was able to successfully install the radar detector securely.

I need to especially thank @smb5627, @Sharbotcom, and @heywardjr for their patience, sticking with me, and giving helpful advice.

 

[Sharbotcom]

View attachment 16452


Yesterday was the day! With a wealth of confidence thanks to the photos and help I had received to date,

EASY: I pulled out and snapped open the large center mirror console by inserting my thumb under it.

CUMBERSOME: It took about 15 minutes for me to figure out how to remove the wiring enclosure. As @Sharbotcom had indicated, there is a latch at the bottom right of the housing. However, I suppose my fingers were too fat to get in there, press the latch and pull the two enclosures apart. I eventually was able to do it, however.

SEVERAL ATTEMPTS: Figuring out the wiretap was easy. Red to White and Black to Black. Problem was, the taps kept slipping out. It took several attempts and moving up to a thicker wiretap to finally get power to the radar detector. I secured the wires with electrical tape to prevent slippage during vehicle vibration.

I then installed a BLENDMOUT on my rearview mirror. Their directions are difficult to follow, but I finally figured it out and was able to successfully install the radar detector securely.

I need to especially thank @smb5627, @Sharbotcom, and @heywardjr for their patience, sticking with me, and giving helpful advice.

It's like tying your shoes for the first time. Congrats!

 

[kolepard]

Thank you Sharbotcom! This was just what I was looking for. Great write up and pictures.

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[jeepwx03]

I used the fuse box under the glove box. You need to remove the panel directly below the glove box that has the floor light in it, there is three plastic push clips that need to come up and the side closer to the center console rotates out first. then the fuse box cover pops right off. I used fuse #3 (Pedestrian Sounder) for my ignition on source and fuse #4 (Ignition switch) for my constant 12v source.

I used these fuse taps, I've never been a fan of using splices if I do not have to - Fuse taps

 

[strako]

I also used a fuse tap to power my radar detector from the fuse box under the steering wheel. I don't like splicing into wires. If you are using a fuse tap, a couple of notes:

1) You need a Mirco2 fuse tap and one 5A Micro2 fuse. Places like Autozone carry the Mini taps and they are too big, you can special order or get from Amazon

2) Fuse position 35 is switched and not used. It already has a 5A fuse there to use as a spare. You can use other places but I like the idea of using a position that is not used for anything else

3) Fairly easy to stuff the wire behind the headliner, when I got the door pillar, I found it easier to stuff it behind on the weather stripping side instead of the side closer to the driver.

 

[JPS1957]

I used the fuse box under the glove box. You need to remove the panel directly below the glove box that has the floor light in it, there is three plastic push clips that need to come up and the side closer to the center console rotates out first. then the fuse box cover pops right off. I used fuse #3 (Pedestrian Sounder) for my ignition on source and fuse #4 (Ignition switch) for my constant 12v source.

I used these fuse taps, I've never been a fan of using splices if I do not have to - Fuse taps

Amazon.com

I’m just about to install my dashcam and your pics are great. Are the taps that are plugged in as shown, oriented for the post with the power? I just learned in a separate bideo that the taps have an orientation.

 

[jeepwx03]

I did not pay attention to orientation, but this is the only way they fit in there because of how tight everything is. I'm curious if anyone else knows, otherwise I may go out and test this weekend.

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[shrinkwrap]

Great stuff. Thanks!

 

[gmint]

I used the fuse box under the glove box. You need to remove the panel directly below the glove box that has the floor light in it, there is three plastic push clips that need to come up and the side closer to the center console rotates out first. then the fuse box cover pops right off. I used fuse #3 (Pedestrian Sounder) for my ignition on source and fuse #4 (Ignition switch) for my constant 12v source.

I used these fuse taps, I've never been a fan of using splices if I do not have to - Fuse taps

I greatly appreciate this. Just bought the tools to follow your lead.

I have two questions:

1. Did you just put the provided 20 amp fuses in even though the original ones are 10? If so, why? Is that the only one you put in or are there multiple fuses per each?

2. Would you mind sharing how you routed the cord from the fuse box? I ask because I’ve I haven’t been able to find anyone posting pics to for the fuse box aside from you.

 

[securityguy]

I greatly appreciate this. Just bought the tools to follow your lead.

I have two questions:

1. Did you just put the provided 20 amp fuses in even though the original ones are 10? If so, why? Is that the only one you put in or are there multiple fuses per each?

2. Would you mind sharing how you routed the cord from the fuse box? I ask because I’ve I haven’t been able to find anyone posting pics to for the fuse box aside from you.

You have to put the fuse you pulled out of the fuse panel into the main position on your tap. The fuse for the device you want to connect should be no greater than 5A based what you're connecting. I use 2A or 3A fuses as radar detectors and dash cams don't need more than 2A. Go from the windshield across the headliner and down the passengers side A-Pillar down into the glove box area to connect the taps to the fuse panel.

 

[HanseDavion]

Seems like I am a bit late to this discussion but Blendmount's website also links you to mirrortap connections for Valentine and other RDs. The mirror taps come with different gauge wire taps to ensure you get a proper fit. Expecting my set to come today and do install.

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[HanseDavion]

Oh and Valentine Gen 2s are definitely the way to go these days. Forget the Escort and GPS stuff built in. Instead, use the JBV1 app (android only) on your phone and connect it to your V1. You will never get a speeding ticket again if you use it and set it up properly.

 

[NJRonbo]

Seems like I am a bit late to this discussion but Blendmount's website also links you to mirrortap connections for Valentine and other RDs. The mirror taps come with different gauge wire taps to ensure you get a proper fit. Expecting my set to come today and do install.

Good luck. As someone with little experience at these things, I found tapping into the rearview mirror power to be easy. Of course, I could not have done it without the photos that were provided earlier in this thread.

 

[NJRonbo]

Oh and Valentine Gen 2s are definitely the way to go these days. Forget the Escort and GPS stuff built in. Instead, use the JBV1 app (android only) on your phone and connect it to your V1. You will never get a speeding ticket again if you use it and set it up properly.

Yup and Yup! I upgraded from a Valentine Gen 1 to Gen 2. Though I am an iPhone user, I bought a used Pixel and installed JBV1 and operate it in my vehicle using my iPhone's hotspot (as I did not activate the cellular on the Pixel).

 

[HanseDavion]

Installed and powered! My 2024 Corsair GT has the colored power cables as indicated in this thread. White for 12V switched power and Black for neutral ground.

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