The Ford service manual recommends a pressure bleeder. You can get them on Amazon and watch videos on utube on how to use it. For around $50.00. Ford recommends putting 30 to 50 PSI, which is a lot. I tried this, and the cap on the pressure device blew at 25 psi. Most people recommend 10 TO 15 psi. If the car was on during any of your work, the system could have detected a major fluid loss and turned on the proportioner valve, which would stop fluid delivery to affected wheels. This happened to me as my old caliper seized, and when I removed it, the piston came out. The easy way to reset this valve and get fluid flowing again to your calipers is to push the piston in on the unaffected wheel same side. Fluid flowing from the caliper back to the reservoir is supposed to open this valve.
Make sure you are getting enough fluid through all 4 calipers during your pressure bleed engine must be off. You also must have someone press down and hold the pedal, up to 4 times, while bleeding, even with the pressure bleeder, following all the usual bleed practices. You should not have to do the ABS bleed. If the regular bleed fails, then you can try to do the ABS bleed procedure in forscan engine must be off. Pressure device still connected, and you still need a helper to push on the brakes when the ABS bleed procedure tells you to. For the 2014 MKZ, the ABS bleed routine was very basic not advanced like some other posts you see, no options other than it guiding you to do an ABS bleed 4 times. I'm not sure if it's 4 for one wheel and any air would come out of that bleeder screw, or if you need to do the ABS bleed on each wheel, one wheel worked for me but then again i probably did not have air in my abs module. The very last resort that works for some after doing all bleed procedures, if you still have a squishy pedal, drive somewhere safe where you can jam on your brakes to activate the abs system, which should push the air out of the ABS module.