BRAKE BLEEDING

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Replaced front and rear brake pads and rotors along with master cylinder. Have gone through brake bleed procedure, still no brake pedal. What are the chances of the electronic module being bad?
 
Do you have a Hybrid or Non-Hybrid?

Unless you are getting a code, I doubt simply doing what you have done would cause the module to fail. Do you have access to ForScan and an appropriate OBD-II adapter? You can communicate with the ABS unit to run tests and see if it's operational.

Manual says if you have a soft / spongy feel to repeat the Pressure Bleeding procedure as you may have air still in the lines.

I would need more details on what you are experiencing to help more. Do you have absolutely no movement on the brakes?
 
You need a scan tool to bleed. Opening up those lines to the master cylinder will drain the ABS block/module of fluid. Assuming you bench bled your master cylinder.
 
You need a scan tool to bleed. Opening up those lines to the master cylinder will drain the ABS block/module of fluid. Assuming you bench bled your master cylinder.
Didn't see the part of the master cylinder. That is correct, with ABS module, you can use your ForScan to run the bleed procedure, or take it to a shop.
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Interesting thread...still have brake issues on 2013 MKZ 2.0 front wheel drive. 109k miles. Ford DEALER replaced (4) pads, rotors, flex hoses and I asked for flush, refill, bleed. They had the car over 4 weeks. Replaced Master Cylinder, claimed it was "leaking". Still soft pedal but pumps right up after two more pedal pushes. It is still not right but dealer threw up his hands. Ford/Lincoln corporate service was of no help, seemingly didn't care.
Can someone share this bleed procedure with scan tool? I am DIY proficient and would like to examine the ABS unit as described herein, to start.
Is Forscan just software?
Willing to learn but need direction.
Thank you!
 
The Ford service manual recommends a pressure bleeder. You can get them on Amazon and watch videos on utube on how to use it. For around $50.00. Ford recommends putting 30 to 50 PSI, which is a lot. I tried this, and the cap on the pressure device blew at 25 psi. Most people recommend 10 TO 15 psi. If the car was on during any of your work, the system could have detected a major fluid loss and turned on the proportioner valve, which would stop fluid delivery to affected wheels. This happened to me as my old caliper seized, and when I removed it, the piston came out. The easy way to reset this valve and get fluid flowing again to your calipers is to push the piston in on the unaffected wheel same side. Fluid flowing from the caliper back to the reservoir is supposed to open this valve.
Make sure you are getting enough fluid through all 4 calipers during your pressure bleed engine must be off. You also must have someone press down and hold the pedal, up to 4 times, while bleeding, even with the pressure bleeder, following all the usual bleed practices. You should not have to do the ABS bleed. If the regular bleed fails, then you can try to do the ABS bleed procedure in forscan engine must be off. Pressure device still connected, and you still need a helper to push on the brakes when the ABS bleed procedure tells you to. For the 2014 MKZ, the ABS bleed routine was very basic not advanced like some other posts you see, no options other than it guiding you to do an ABS bleed 4 times. I'm not sure if it's 4 for one wheel and any air would come out of that bleeder screw, or if you need to do the ABS bleed on each wheel, one wheel worked for me but then again i probably did not have air in my abs module. The very last resort that works for some after doing all bleed procedures, if you still have a squishy pedal, drive somewhere safe where you can jam on your brakes to activate the abs system, which should push the air out of the ABS module.
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