1979 Lincoln Mark V - Steering Coupler (aka Rag Joint) Replacement

[churmsk]

I have a 1979 Lincoln Mark V and the steering coupler (aka Rag Joint) has completely deteriorated. The shop manual indicates that the entire U-Joint assembly must be removed to replace the steering coupler because rivets on the OEM part/setup must be drilled out. Unfortunately, the bolt that attaches the U-Joint assembly to a steering shaft is obstructed at the firewall. The connect seems to be 1 to 2 inches inset to the firewall opening and, although I can see it, I can't seem to get to it.

Does anyone have ideas? Image #1 shows the actual part. Image #2 provides a context to the setup.

 

[michaelt62]

Remove the screws that hold the rubber boot to the firewall at the bottom of the steering column from the inside, then slide the boot up the shaft to access the nut.

 

[michaelt62]

I forgot to mention that the bolt will only slide out 1/2" and cannot be removed from the joint (see pic's).

 

[NaturalTourist_1972]

Just came across this post as I am faced in the same situation. How were you able to remove the shaft from the car? Did it involve removing the steering wheel and dropping the steering shaft to allow removal of the U-joint bolt? I was not able to do this as I have tilt steering which complicates the whole thing.

Any update would be really appreciated! I just ordered a brand new rag joint from Rock Auto and very anxious to get it installed.

Thanks!

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[michaelt62]

This is not hard to do, but does require patients as the space is limited. Both of my Mark V's have tilt wheel and you don't have to do anything w/ the column. Remove the rag joint bolts, go inside & remove the 2 screws that hold the lower boot to the firewall. Slide the boot up towards the steering wheel to access the lower shaft joint. Remove the nut & slide the bolt out from the joint (The bolt can only slide about 5/8" so it's flat spot allows the joint to slide off the column shaft). If you need more room to get to the rag joint, you can remove the wheel well liner.


michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

 

[NaturalTourist_1972]

This is not hard to do, but does require patients as the space is limited. Both of my Mark V's have tilt wheel and you don't have to do anything w/ the column. Remove the rag joint bolts, go inside & remove the 2 screws that hold the lower boot to the firewall. Slide the boot up towards the steering wheel to access the lower shaft joint. Remove the nut & slide the bolt out from the joint (The bolt can only slide about 5/8" so it's flat spot allows the joint to slide off the column shaft). If you need more room to get to the rag joint, you can remove the wheel well liner.


michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

You are a life saver, thank you so much for this, and the quick reply! I’ll give it a go and hope to get this finally fixed. Did you have any trouble installing the new coupler? And once it was attached, did you have any trouble fitting it back in place? You didn’t have to lower the steering column by any chance?

 

[michaelt62]

I forgot to add that they don't have the original urethane coupler and the bolt pattern on the aftermarket one (at least the 2 I got) were slightly off. I believe ours was 3 1/4" and the aftermarket was 3 1/8" so I had to ream the holes slightly. Also the flange on the bottom of the coupler that attaches to the steering gear shaft has a flat spot that you align with the flat spot on the shaft. As for installing the coupler, once you remove the lower shaft, you can install the coupler on the bench. It's best to mark the orientation (black marker) of the flange to the lower shaft and the lower shaft joint to the steering column shaft before removal so your steering wheel will be aligned when done. No, I didn't have to lower the steering column.

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

 

[NaturalTourist_1972]

I forgot to add that they don't have the original urethane coupler and the bolt pattern on the aftermarket one (at least the 2 I got) were slightly off. I believe ours was 3 1/4" and the aftermarket was 3 1/8" so I had to ream the holes slightly. Also the flange on the bottom of the coupler that attaches to the steering gear shaft has a flat spot that you align with the flat spot on the shaft. As for installing the coupler, once you remove the lower shaft, you can install the coupler on the bench. It's best to mark the orientation (black marker) of the flange to the lower shaft and the lower shaft joint to the steering column shaft before removal so your steering wheel will be aligned when done. No, I didn't have to lower the steering column.

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

Thank you very much @michaelt62 for your advice. I finally got the shaft out, after so long….

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[michaelt62]

Your welcome, I never used the coupler assembly you pictured. With the flange already riveted to the coupler you lose the safety bracket that prevents total steering loss if the joint fails. You might want to check the flange to see it mates with the gear shaft before assembly.

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

 

[michaelt62]

Also note that the coupler assembly is thicker and will be a little tighter when re-installing.

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

 

[NaturalTourist_1972]

Your welcome, I never used the coupler assembly you pictured. With the flange already riveted to the coupler you lose the safety bracket that prevents total steering loss if the joint fails. You might want to check the flange to see it mates with the gear shaft before assembly.

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

Yes I understand what you mean. Looking at the aftermarket coupler assembly, it is definitely not as per original specs. There will need to be some adjustments to make it work for sure. It’s never an easy landing

 

[NaturalTourist_1972]

Also note that the coupler assembly is thicker and will be a little tighter when re-installing.

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

If only I could see how you fitted your aftermarket coupler…

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[michaelt62]

Here you go, pic's from both of my Mark V's. The coupler kit I got came with the coupler and hardware loose (nothing attached). You have to drill out the rivets on the safety bracket and replace with bolts(use lock nuts).

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

 

[NaturalTourist_1972]

Here you go, pic's from both of my Mark V's. The coupler kit I got came with the coupler and hardware loose (nothing attached). You have to drill out the rivets on the safety bracket and replace with bolts(use lock nuts).

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

I wished that I had consulted you before doing what I just did (please see attached pics) I cut the original two bolts as well to make the aftermarket assembly fit.

It’s a weird design, why it’s made this way. I probably have to weld the two pins to the bracket, or somehow use a tap and die to fit nuts.

 

[NaturalTourist_1972]

I wished that I had consulted you before doing what I just did (please see attached pics) I cut the original two bolts as well to make the aftermarket assembly fit.

It’s a weird design, why it’s made this way. I probably have to weld the two pins to the bracket, or somehow use a tap and die to fit nuts.

Thank you (by the way) for taking the time to post those pics. What an excellent job you did. Looks good as factory built again! Where did you purchase the rag joint? Just wondering…

 

[michaelt62]

I purchased the coupler kit at a local parts store we have in western PA (Hovis Auto), It was #310004 but I don't remember who made it. All you need to do with your set up is drill out the rivets from the flange side and replace with matching bolts and lock nuts.

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

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[NaturalTourist_1972]

I purchased the coupler kit at a local parts store we have in western PA (Hovis Auto), It was #310004 but I don't remember who made it. All you need to do with your set up is drill out the rivets from the flange side and replace with matching bolts and lock nuts.

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

Now why didn’t I think of that…. Anyways what I had done was apply an epoxy to the top to the rivets and bracket so it prevents the bracket from coming off. After all, the force is in the other two bolts where the shaft is connected to the bottom shaft bracket.

 

[NaturalTourist_1972]

Now why didn’t I think of that…. Anyways what I had done was apply an epoxy to the top to the rivets and bracket so it prevents the bracket from coming off. After all, the force is in the other two bolts where the shaft is connected to the bottom shaft bracket.

Disregard what I said about the force coming from the other two bolts, It obviously isn’t true. In your opinion, should I undo what I did and install bolts with nuts instead, or do you think I can leave as is?

 

[michaelt62]

Epoxy will not hold up if the coupler fails. If you look at my coupler you can see the fiber strands that will keep it from quick instant failure that usually happened with the original urethane one. Your pic doesn't show any fiber strands, so I'm not sure of it's composition and I would drill out the rivets to install the safety bracket securely.

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

 

[NaturalTourist_1972]

Epoxy will not hold up if the coupler fails. If you look at my coupler you can see the fiber strands that will keep it from quick instant failure that usually happened with the original urethane one. Your pic doesn't show any fiber strands, so I'm not sure of it's composition and I would drill out the rivets to install the safety bracket securely.

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

Epoxy will not hold up if the coupler fails. If you look at my coupler you can see the fiber strands that will keep it from quick instant failure that usually happened with the original urethane one. Your pic doesn't show any fiber strands, so I'm not sure of it's composition and I would drill out the rivets to install the safety bracket securely.

michaelt62

MY Cars: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-Tv0kuDyQhbH-DrqF71zYQ/videos

You’re totally right, I will be drilling out the rivets and installing bolts and lock nuts as you suggested. Too bad I cut off the original bolts. Since I’m dismantling the whole aftermarket ssembly, I might as well disregard the bracket that comes with it and put back the original one that connects to the gear box since it isn’t even a 100% same fitting. Thanks again for your input on this.