1971 Mark III Trunk Felt Recommendations

Once installed I don't think that they turned out too bad. Not as pretty as original, but at least they look like they might belong on an automobile and not in a laundromat.

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I might think about a way to cover them once I get the felt to reline the trunk.

Stovebolt.
 
I like the optional drop light for your Mark.
Actually pretty bright for just 12 volts.
I wish my would have come equipped with that. Could be handy during inclement weather.
Does it draw down the battery fast?

Action
 
A rare option, only available in the 1971 Gold Bronze Brown Ocher Earth-tone Metallic with Indy 500 stripes (removed by the PO). Thankfully the option was UL listed and used LED bulbs that were way ahead of their time. Putz! ;)
 
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Your job looks nicer, but once the spare is in and covered they are hard to see.
 
I have seen schedule 40 used many times. Just not schedule 80.

Sruddy and Stovebolt1, post a pic to the left of the spare tire stop.

Action
 
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I wish I could find a picture of installation of mine. Unfortunately my Mark III is in Michigan and I am not.

Attached is the only picture of the trunk that I have. Taken in October 2022
I believe the lining is original. (No piping)
Not sure is the spare tire cover is original.
Notice the wing nut on the "J" hook is not threaded down. There are no more threads.
For a long time I could not get the jack based and hook installation correct.
Still not sure.

I believe my Mark III got hit in the rear. Such that the deck lid was replaced. And I believe I have a 1969 deck lid on my 1970 Mark III. There are no holes for the lettering on the deck lid which was correct for 1969. Model year 1970 & 1971 used lettering with pins and holes.
So, there are no letters on the deck lid of my Mark III either.
The remote deck lid motor was missing and the vacuum line & wire harness for deck lid light was stuck down to the left of the deck lid hinge area.
The deck lid illumination light was missing.
The optical fiber brake light monitor was cut at the tail light assemblies.
The jack instructions label, the "J" hook, tire iron and the spring and clamp for the jack were missing. (All have been replaced)
The jack base and hook were laying in the bottom of the trunk.

Not sure I have the correct "J" hook. As clamping that set of pieces to the spare tire are loose.
I have since purchased the correct vacuum motor for the remote release. (Ford used 3 different ones in that period)
Purchased and installed the correct deck lid illumination light.
Replaced the entire brake light monitor system
Connected the vacuum line and decklid electrical line. Used the correct wire loom clips to support the harness along the deck lid shown in the left side of the picture.
Also replaced the rear vent drains (subject of this thread) with the reproduction rubber drain hoses that are now over $150.
Note those drains and the factory drains have a one way drain valve in the end to keep dust from coming up into the rubber hose.
My vehicle was built to Federal standards and delivered an Ohio dealership and a customer that was an Ohio banker. So no evaporative tank venting.

I did a lot of research on the power antenna. (Not shown) It has been removed repaired and reinstalled.
Replaced the deck lid lock cover. (Not shown)
Replaced the trunk weatherstrip. Difficult to see in this picture. And rather inexpensive compared to other things.
Painted the jack hook and base a semi-gloss black after this picture was shot.

Sometimes it is about the details. Other times it is always about the details. Get the details right and others will look at it and remark how nice it looks. You will look at it and pick it apart. And sadly the LM Master Parts Catalog is not as detailed about the jack parts and some other pieces as I would like.

Action


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Still looks pretty rough but here's a picture to the right of the spare tire stop:

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Found this little cotton hot dog tucked back in there. Surprising that this thing has lasted 52 years.

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I am looking for those little black plastic straps that hold the sender wires (under the spare tire). There are little studs to hold them in place. Probably a small thing to worry about bit if they're easily available it doesn't hurt to stay original.

Stovebolt
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Stovebolt1 you have a Federal emission Mark III.
The "hot dog" is sound deadening. The rear wheels are nearly inside the passenger compartment where as the front wheels are forward of the passenger compartment.

The plastic straps under the spare. Can you get a tighter short or have a broken one you can take a picture?

Action
 
I have seen schedule 40 used many times. Just not schedule 80.

Sruddy and Stovebolt1, post a pic to the left of the spare tire stop.

Action
All the parts came from my plumbing stash. What is it you want to see exctly?
 
How can you tell it's a Federal Emissions Mark III?

Unfortunately I don't have an example of that plastic strap but you can kind of see one in Sruddys photo of his trunk. It holds the sender wire down to the floor of the trunk. About 2 inches long, probably plastic or rubber, with small holes at each end that just attach to the small studs sticking out of the floor.

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All the parts came from my plumbing stash. What is it you want to see exctly?
Stovebolt1 said, "How can you tell it's a Federal Emissions Mark III?"

In 1971 Ford added an evaporative emission system to select vehicles. Those vehicles were full sized Ford & Mercury and Continental Mark III only delivered to California! All other full sized Ford & Mercury and Continental Mark III models delivered to the other states did not have this.
It is an anomly like other anomlies for the era.

So I go looking for those things. Not sure what year sruddy's Mark is. Because this Mark III anomily is only on moeld year 1971.

Look at the picture attched and the blue squared line on the left. It is outlining something not often seen on a Mark III. It is a (yes this is factory) rectangular item standing on end. It is actually cylindrical. It contains a lot of hoses and is part of the evaporative emissions system that was ONLY installed on vehicles to be delivered to California. (That weird place to the left of me)

Just wondered if either of you have that.

Speaking of pictures, looking at my trunk picture I posted in #27. It appears my ride is green. It is black. Must be the florescent lighting in the barn my Mark III is stored at in Michigan.

As to the plastic strap.
Is it a single strap that is wider than a zip tie?
And this is a place you can get lost for hours. Bulk & Wholesale Auto Fasteners & Parts - AMK Products, Inc.
If sruddy posts a pic of the piece, I may have one from the 4 cars I have parted out.

Action

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Latest dilemma - to glue or not to glue. I have finished the pieces that line the floor of the trunk and am debating whether to affix them permanently, or try to figure out some kind of removable attachment. When I pulled up the old covering it was tacked in with some kind of adhesive but my gut tells me making anything permanent is tempting fate to come up with a reason to have it removed.

Action - I'd suspect that the little wire strap looks something like this:

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Yes, I'm no Rembrandt, though it does look like a Picasso.

Stovebolt
 

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I have parted out 4 cars.
I tend not to throw out little clips, fasteners and things like that. Just in case.
I have a box that I throw these thing into.
And I think I understand what you are seeking.

If that plastic pieve engages two tangs, what is the dimension between the two tangs?

Action
 
I have parted out 4 cars.
I tend not to throw out little clips, fasteners and things like that. Just in case.
I have a box that I throw these thing into.
And I think I understand what you are seeking.

If that plastic pieve engages two tangs, what is the dimension between the two tangs?

Action
2 and 1/4 inches between the tangs. I would imagine that it is made of stretchy rubber so that you can stretch it over the tangs, then it contracts back to hold the wire firmly in place.

Stovebolt
 
I looked at the Mark IV I am parting out and the electrical for the fuel tank passes through a different area in the trunk with a metal sleeve to protect it. - no bueno!

I looked in the Master Parts Catalog and there is no reference to any clip/fastener/or harness protection for that wiring. Ugh.

So I am left to looking through some boxes. I will see how that goes and get back to you.

Action
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Thanks @Action. Don't spend too much time, it's an item that gets hidden beneath the spare tire so very likely that it will never be seen. I do appreciate the extra effort.

Stovevolt
 
Almost finished. Using the existing trunk liners as templates it wasn't too difficult to craft replacements from new material. Not up to Concours standards but good enough for the crowd at the local Saturday car show.

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I used the existing card/hardboard where I could though, if I were to do it again, I'd probably replace them with new boards. Similarly I'd think of a way to affix the car jack flap at the bottom so that it hangs straight down and doesn't flap. I did put a partial bottom on the spare tire cover but I'm not sure how I feel about it now, as it looks a little cheezy. And.... Unfortunately I couldn't find any brown material but I don't think that the gray looks too bad.

Stovebolt
 
NIce job!

Many liners are gray. Mine is black. Not sure which is factory correct or not.
I am not sure that the spare tire cover was factory. I have seen lots of them and even have one.
Just not researched much as if it the vehicle was made with one or not.

How is your power antenna?
I had issues with mine and the wiring to it. There is an "L" bracket at the bottom of the antenna and when I got my car it was missing. The part is NOT shown in teh parts catalog. So I had to wait to buy one on ebay. Could not find one listed. So ended up buying one attached to an antenna.
Later I sold the antenna.

Action
 
The spare tire cover that was in mine matched the rest of the trunk lining material so I assume it is factory. The cover did have the same zigzag stitching pattern as the other sewn pieces in the trunk.

The power antenna goes up and down, though I've not had the opportunity to actually test it with a working radio. The radio in mine wasn't working and after a long search for someone to repair it I decided to have all of the guts replaced with new technology. Sadly all of my speakers needed replacing and rather than deal with the whole single-ground issue it just made more sense to upgrade the head. It is very cool that these guys can maintain the look and functionality of your existing radio while replacing the guts with current technology (including USB, Bluetooth, etc...). Is it expensive? Yes, around $400, but given the cost of one of those Retro Sound units is $200 or more I figured the add'l 2 bills wouldn't break me in the long run. And after all, I need to be able to cruise around next summer with Frank Sinatra gently reminding me "that's life".

Stovebolt
 
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