So if I buy the euro headlights with the modules ( I planned on buying lights with modules to make it easier anyway) would the modules still need programming. And what kind of programming are you talking about. I was thinking swapping a few wires around for the turn signals would be all that was needed. And do you have the diagrams for both us and euro lights. Led and non led. I was waiting on you to finish your swap before I tackled this myself so I could have more info to go off of. And plus I could find a decently priced drivers side headlight at the time. For some reason the drives side light is harder to find than the passenger side. I guess there were alot of front left collisions on these cars. lol
Hey B1. I’m glad you want to take up the project. So I can see that you’re looking for guidance on the project. I really can only tell you what I did.
The Headlights MUST and I mean MUST come with the Modules. The reason being is that there is no rhyme or reason to the specific 2 letters on the end of the Model number to make the headlights function properly. For Example, FG9T-13B626 Is the model number for the Headlight Module. One is FG9T-13B626-
AE then one is FG9T-13B626-
BJ etc. If you get the headlight with the modules attached then you’re a head of the game.
Now you said that you’re looking for a matching pair of euros. I had a tough time finding a drivers side headlight. I did buy it with no modules. How I made it work was that I ended up buying a 3rd headlight. I found a passenger one with modules attached. It was cheap enough to where it was a gamble that it might work. And it did! So if you find a Driver headlight with no modules, you might want to explore 2 passenger headlights and take the modules off of them to get the drivers side to work. I used TX automotive (eBay) for the lights. They seem like that have decent prices and they don’t remove the modules.
The turn signals are easy. I got away with just taking the signal positive and splicing it into the harness. It actually worked with no load capacitors. So that was a plus.
I do not have the Diagrams for the euro lights but I purchased a manual off of eBay for the North America continental that helped me with locating the correct wires to splice. I got the book for $20 so it was a bargain. I know that there are people on the forum who have the CD rom for the Continental, but I’m not sure if they will give you the PDF’s. Its easier to buy the manual. I did find that the Euro LED's and the North American LED's kinda followed the same wiring diagram. To be honest, It was a lot of trial and error.
So for the programing, I had to use the ForScan to reprogram the Headlight Control Module. I had no High Beams when I installed it. To be honest, I just took the As Built data from a black Label and plugged in the codes. It worked like a charm! I got my high beams to work! Also wherever the steering wheel turns, the light gets brighter on that side. It’s cool.
Here is a negative. To adjust the lights were horrible. I had to adjust them about 10 times before I got it right. The lights give off a very sharp beam. If it’s too high, you can be blinding on coming drivers or if it’s too low, you can't see what’s in front of you. The HID’s are better at light dispersal, In my Opinion.
The second negative was that I couldn’t get the Fogs to work. I tried everything! I even tried to hotwire the fogs to the on off switch of the car. No Bueno! I ended up buying 6 Inch long, thin fogs and opening up the OEM fog housing to remove the lights. Then I had to attach the new fogs and reseal the housing using Silicone. WOW! That was a project in itself. I’ll attach some pictures to this thread.
I wish you the best of luck. If you need anymore advice, Just reach out.