Unlocking Passenger Doors

[MattMacMan]

Do not pay for a new battery. You should still have a warranty. However if youre curious, you can check the physical battery for the part number on it. Itll tell you which one you have. The H7 battery is also physically larger. Some have H4 some have H7. Thats why 2 batteries show up for your vehicle. The H7 is the better of the two. But you need to install what is supposed to be in there unless you can convince the tech to flash the BMS to upgrade to an H7. It needs to be done so that the vehicle knows exactly what battery it has so it can adjust its charging parameters accordingly to prolong the lifespan of the new battery.

 

[swindler]

The H7 is for the gas version of the Nautilus. This battery is noticeably larger than the battery for the hybrid vehicle. The hybrid 12V battery (Motorcraft BAGM-H4) is still an AGM, but smaller, about 50 Ah. Much of the hybrid vehicle runs directly from the high voltage (hybrid system) battery.

The two batteries are mounted in different locations (under the hood for the H7, under the spare tire for the H4). You cannot install the H7 in the hybrid without modifications.

 

[MattMacMan]

The H7 is for the gas version of the hybrid. This battery is noticeably larger than the battery for the hybrid vehicle. The Motorcraft BAGM-H4 is still an AGM, but smaller, about 50 Ah. Much of the hybrid vehicle runs directly from the high voltage (hybrid) battery.

The two batteries are mounted in different locations (under the hood for the H7, under the spare tire for the H4). You cannot install the H7 in the hybrid without modifications.

Yeah I completely spaced on the fact it was a hybrid. Good call.

 

[angore]

From what I could find the h7 is 4 inches longer than the h4. The height and width are the same. It is odd both that show up under my vin in ford parts.

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[GeoGVAZ]

Once again, Thank you very much for your replies. And my apologies to the original poster of this thread. I sorta hijacked it, but I hope you are still reading it and getting some useful info for your vehicle. I experience all the things you mention whenever my car goes into power saving mode (almost everyday now). I'm hoping battery replacement will fix it.
I will post a couple photos of my battery (located under the spare tire). I can't tell if it is lead acid or AGM as it is covered by the brace for the spare tire and I can't figure out (don't really have the inclination anyway) how to remove it. Don't ask what's up with the duct tape. who the heck knows ?????? (Not the dealer when I sent them the photos).
Status of repair:
Dealer agrees battery test is needed and there will be no charge. If battery fails, it will be replaced with like kind. I told them if it is lead acid, I want to upgrade the replacement to AGM. They will charge me for that, hopefully just the difference between parts. You'd think that would be a no brainer for the dealer towards customer satisfaction but my service rep needs to check with the manager.
Due to low (IMO) loaner availability, my appt for battery test is not until Dec 30th. I will post the outcome.

 

[MattMacMan]

Once again, Thank you very much for your replies. And my apologies to the original poster of this thread. I sorta hijacked it, but I hope you are still reading it and getting some useful info for your vehicle. I experience all the things you mention whenever my car goes into power saving mode (almost everyday now). I'm hoping battery replacement will fix it.
I will post a couple photos of my battery (located under the spare tire). I can't tell if it is lead acid or AGM as it is covered by the brace for the spare tire and I can't figure out (don't really have the inclination anyway) how to remove it. Don't ask what's up with the duct tape. who the heck knows ?????? (Not the dealer when I sent them the photos).
Status of repair:
Dealer agrees battery test is needed and there will be no charge. If battery fails, it will be replaced with like kind. I told them if it is lead acid, I want to upgrade the replacement to AGM. They will charge me for that, hopefully just the difference between parts. You'd think that would be a no brainer for the dealer towards customer satisfaction but my service rep needs to check with the manager.
Due to low (IMO) loaner availability, my appt for battery test is not until Dec 30th. I will post the outcome.

Hey, just wanted to make sure you get taken care of the right way: If they DO upgrade your battery, make sure they flash the BMS (Battery Management System) with the proper Battery Type and then perform a BMS reset once the new battery is installed with FDRS. This way the vehicle will reset back to new battery status and know that a different type of battery has been installed. The BMS not only keeps track of battery degradation as it ages, it also charges different types of batteries accordingly. Larger batteries need higher voltage from the alternator, and SLA and AGM batteries charge differently.

 

[angore]

Your battery is an AGM and the battery test should just be one test THEY want/need to do to address the issue. They are not doing you a favor and if by chance it passes, they need to go to the next step to address the issue. If what you said is accurate I would not trust the dealer by wanting asking you to pay for the battery test. He should also be sure all software is up to updated and properly.

I have a hybrid too and battery looks the same (wrapped in tape) but I do not see how a 4 inch wider H7 will fit in that tray with modification as @swindler stated earlier. Please note even gas owners have similar problems so a smaller battery is not the core issue. Yes I would like the higher reserve capacity too.