Town car engine oil

Well, ya see, I don't have a manual. Since 1992, I've had an '86, used for regular job plus part time limo service, so quite often I'd be going to Kwik change shops and would only need 4 and 1/4 quarts, as some oil was still in the engine and that amount would bring it almost to the full line. And checking it later or the next few days, would remain there, and knowing it would usually burn a bit, after about 1500/1800 miles, it would need a sip or 2, about a half a quart or so till change time. If I let her sit for a half hour or so, draining, it would take 4 and 1/2. I continued that dance with the '89, drove her into the ground because of the many repairs it needed. Sent her to Victory boneyard. A fellow @ work wanted to buy it, but I told him it would never pass emissions test without major work.
So, now on to the '97. No manual, had a friend's kid download it from somewhere on to a disk, and printed out a 1 sided unnumbered pages (somewhere north of 85+ pages) but this took a few weeks, early oughts (2000s) 2002 or somewhere around there. So I did the same dance as with the other cars, remember? Filter plus 4 and 1/2 quarts, ran it, drove it 3 or 4 miles, parked it, no leaks, checked the next day and 2 more times that week, right up to the full line, and Kwik change shops, same dance, 4 and 1/4 quarts just barely shy of the full mark. So my speeding encounter with the brick wall of reality came about some 4 months ago, when I had work done at a local shop, and an oil change. So, can you see where this is going? Got the car home after a short drive, checked the oil the next day and what do you think I found? A reading on the dipstick that was waaayyyy past- over the full mark. Yes, I freaked out. If you pulled your dipstick and saw the same, wouldn't you? You would, absolutely! Not really knowing what the shop did. That was the slow motion collision with said brick wall. Idumped about 3/4 quarts out, and went back to the shop and confronted them! Imagine, here's this dumbs*** client, freaked out about us following specs! What a _______ insert favorite insult there. And the manager, equally blindsided by me. (They've always done great work- I had my car in there 5 or 6 yes ago, told them I heard gurgling in the cooling system. They flushed w/ new coolant, took it for a drive and guess what- hydro lock, couldn't start it. I think senior members have a very good idea what happened- bad intake manifold, and I have the bent connecting rod and severely heated wrist pin imy possession to prove it. I've always feared along trip because of any undiscovered problems
So many unanswered questions regarding oil amounts- has this ever occured b4? Is the oilpan, or block a remnant from a previous production run?
I'm not looking for litigios comp here, just curious for the truth-,geddit?
 
Got it. The link in my first comment is a digital version of your owners manual from Ford’s service website, so you can save that and get to the manual any time. Your engine should hold 5 quarts total, with 4.8ish in the block/pan (4.6 liters x 1.057 = 4.86 quarts) and another 0.2ish in the filter. If someone did just dump 5 quartz in then it would be over full for a bit since the filter would initially be empty.

As for the Kwik change place, they probably didn’t let the oil drain sufficiently and then topped it off using the book amount without actually checking the levels.
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Got it. The link in my first comment is a digital version of your owners manual from Ford’s service website, so you can save that and get to the manual any time. Your engine should hold 5 quarts total, with 4.8ish in the block/pan (4.6 liters x 1.057 = 4.86 quarts) and another 0.2ish in the filter. If someone did just dump 5 quartz in then it would be over full for a bit since the filter would initially be empty.

As for the Kwik change place, they probably didn’t let the oil drain sufficiently and then topped it off using the book amount without actually checking the levels.
Ya, hence my instruction to the Kwik change guys, four and a quarter only, please. Ya gotta watch them guys. I've repeatedly had to stop a youngster from prying off the vents on a "freedom" battery ( non removeable vents) with the advice that if you can't get it off with your fingers, it's a not supposed to come off. Ditto tire pressure. I've had various pressures on my 3 Town cars, the '86 rode best on 34 and 1/2. Had a lotta work on that baby. Intake manifold oil leak directly onto the exhaust- p freaken-u, upper + lower control arm bushings tie rod ends, steering arm (pittman arm and o-ring replacement had to drain the ATF fluid out+ replace w/ power steering fluid, 'cause the trans fluid leaked, after change, no leaks. Moog springs,gas shocks front, cargo coils, gas shocks, rear, no more scraping bumper on pavement, with a huge load in the trunk and back seat. Car road maybe 3/4 inch higher empty, but was no problem handling, it was an absolute dream to drive, and one if my favorite exit ramps, which many truckers took too fast ( 5 or 6 ), and wound up in sweet repose on their side, or worst, upside down, I could take (25 mph posted) I could take @ 45-50 mph easy, like I was on rails, minimum tire slide, didn't want to wind up upside down in the weeds, enough of a thrill be for me
 
Got it. The link in my first comment is a digital version of your owners manual from Ford’s service website, so you can save that and get to the manual any time. Your engine should hold 5 quarts total, with 4.8ish in the block/pan (4.6 liters x 1.057 = 4.86 quarts) and another 0.2ish in the filter. If someone did just dump 5 quartz in then it would be over full for a bit since the filter would initially be empty.

As for the Kwik change place, they probably didn’t let the oil drain sufficiently and then topped it off using the book amount without actually checking the levels.
But after reading my posts, and knowing that I've been doing this since the early 2000s, what could the possible reason be? Someone @the factory used an oil pan from some other production run? My 4 and1/2 brings it right up to the full line. Are there any other strange birds out there? Is puzzlement!
 
But after reading my posts, and knowing that I've been doing this since the early 2000s, what could the possible reason be? Someone @the factory used an oil pan from some other production run? My 4 and1/2 brings it right up to the full line. Are there any other strange birds out there? Is puzzlement!
Manufacturing variability could theoretically do it. Or your oil pan could be dented slightly. Or you might not be measuring as exactly as you think. Or some oil could be staying in the pan when you drain it. Or a combination of some or all of those. There’s very little difference between 4.5 and 4.8 quarts (~6%). Bone dry with a new filter you should be able to put in ~4.8 qts, then run the engine for a minute, and then add another .2 qts, so the difference between the theory of what should go in and the reality of what you’re seeing is pretty insignificant. As long as the dip-stick is reading full I don’t think there’s anything to worry about.
 
Got it. The link in my first comment is a digital version of your owners manual from Ford’s service website, so you can save that and get to the manual any time. Your engine should hold 5 quarts total, with 4.8ish in the block/pan (4.6 liters x 1.057 = 4.86 quarts) and another 0.2ish in the filter. If someone did just dump 5 quartz in then it would be over full for a bit since the filter would initially be empty.

As for the Kwik change place, they probably didn’t let the oil drain sufficiently and then topped it off using the book amount without actually checking the levels.
Yes, the Kwik change guys (they're using ecogard oil filters) and blended synthetic oil. I've usually changed oil before the 3k mark 'cause in many situations especially cold weather, I'd be idling just to keep warm, out by myself, watching independent contractors as my assignment (working for a railroad, watching outside contractors so they made it home uninjured. Last time was mid 1990s, when they were using directional boring to bury empty, flexible pipe, for future fibreoptics.). So, cold weather change oil way before 3k. Again, not 5 quarts? Tis a mystery. Perhaps engine was changed out years ago..?? I've had it at least 16-17 years, and have done, when I was younger, actually done oil changes myself, so this is a genuine mystery. No accordian pleats in the pan, this seems to be an earlier, pre-1997 engine, and I'll keep giving it the required TLC as best as possible. There's something going on here, if I had stumbled across this soon after I bought the car, an explanation may have been possible. Is there an engine id# somewhere on the engine? Still until I can get Sherlock interested, fat chance. I'll keep up keeping up, and shaking my head at the advancing rust that will force me to find another ride.
Thank all of you for the feedback and helpful info, don't forget to replace front end parts @ 90k! better than being stranded, and the usual (large) towing fee. Remember 6 of 7 resistance or denial is futile!!
Cheers, and once again, thank you- from a newbie, however you spell it!
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Yes, the Kwik change guys (they're using ecogard oil filters) and blended synthetic oil. I've usually changed oil before the 3k mark 'cause in many situations especially cold weather, I'd be idling just to keep warm, out by myself, watching independent contractors as my assignment (working for a railroad, watching outside contractors so they made it home uninjured. Last time was mid 1990s, when they were using directional boring to bury empty, flexible pipe, for future fibreoptics.). So, cold weather change oil way before 3k. Again, not 5 quarts? Tis a mystery. Perhaps engine was changed out years ago..?? I've had it at least 16-17 years, and have done, when I was younger, actually done oil changes myself, so this is a genuine mystery. No accordian pleats in the pan, this seems to be an earlier, pre-1997 engine, and I'll keep giving it the required TLC as best as possible. There's something going on here, if I had stumbled across this soon after I bought the car, an explanation may have been possible. Is there an engine id# somewhere on the engine? Still until I can get Sherlock interested, fat chance. I'll keep up keeping up, and shaking my head at the advancing rust that will force me to find another ride.
Thank all of you for the feedback and helpful info, don't forget to replace front end parts @ 90k! better than being stranded, and the usual (large) towing fee. Remember 6 of 7 resistance or denial is futile!!
Cheers, and once again, thank you- from a newbie, however you spell it!
You’re welcome. I don’t always like WikiHow, but this is pretty solid and should help you find the serial number: How to Identify a Ford Motor
 
You’re welcome. I don’t always like WikiHow, but this is pretty solid and should help you find the serial number: How to Identify a Ford Motor
Or was it 7 of 9? I'll have the local mech search. He's the guy that replaced the connecting rod and a few other internals, so, he may have scoped out the engine block I'd. Could be identical internal components being used, year to year. A big cost saving measure, we already have a widget, not gonna design another one
 
I would recommend you to check the company manual which oil they recommend for, they very well about car's engine so they must better know than us, I know about towing trucks oil I am a driver at towing service in Queens, I can better tell about trucks.
 
I would recommend you to check the company manual which oil they recommend for, they very well about car's engine so they must better know than us, I know about towing trucks oil I am a driver at towing service in Queens, I can better tell about trucks.
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I'm in the same boat, after draining the hot engine thoroughly in my '97 Town Car, and after replacing the filter, 5 quarts looks about 1/2 qt high on the dipstick on level ground with engine warmed up for a few miles.

My '88 Isuzu (bought new) is the same way, the factory oil amount is almost a half-quart too much when checked warm, and I have no dents in the pan.
I have checked this carefully after every gas stop ever since the day I bought the truck new (and found it had been over-filled by over a half-quart). This would be expected on the Isuzu because pulling out the dipstick always first shows the oil to be low, but after re-inserting it I get a fuller reading. I am thinking that there might be an air vent hole along the dipstick tube that isn't open and which causes air in the dipstick tube to heat up and expand, forcing the oil in the tube lower. It's always at least a half-quart difference in the reading after I pull and re-insert the dipstick. I note that the Town Car doesn't have that particular problem with the oil level reading changing after pulling and re-inserting the dipstick.
Also, the oil on the Town Car's dipstick doesn't leave as straight of an oil line to read, so I always check it a couple of times. The trans dipstick is the same way on my Town Car, hard to be sure where that line really is. Even my mower has this minor problem, so I take the average of three readings to be sure.
 
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I'm in the same boat, after draining the hot engine thoroughly in my '97 Town Car, and after replacing the filter, 5 quarts looks about 1/2 qt high on the dipstick on level ground with engine warmed up for a few miles.

My '88 Isuzu (bought new) is the same way, the factory oil amount is almost a half-quart too much when checked warm, and I have no dents in the pan.
I have checked this carefully after every gas stop ever since the day I bought the truck new (and found it had been over-filled by over a half-quart). This would be expected on the Isuzu because pulling out the dipstick always first shows the oil to be low, but after re-inserting it I get a fuller reading. I am thinking that there might be an air vent hole along the dipstick tube that isn't open and which causes air in the dipstick tube to heat up and expand, forcing the oil in the tube lower. It's always at least a half-quart difference in the reading after I pull and re-insert the dipstick. I note that the Town Car doesn't have that particular problem with the oil level reading changing after pulling and re-inserting the dipstick.
Also, the oil on the Town Car's dipstick doesn't leave as straight of an oil line to read, so I always check it a couple of times. The trans dipstick is the same way on my Town Car, hard to be sure where that line really is. Even my mower has this minor problem, so I take the average of three readings to be sure.
Average of 3 readings, reminds me of a photography method (actual film) of bracketing, used when not sure of exact exposure setting. I've had the same issue trying to get a trans fluid reading. It's so clear, it's hard to tell where the level is.
 
Average of 3 readings, reminds me of a photography method (actual film) of bracketing, used when not sure of exact exposure setting. I've had the same issue trying to get a trans fluid reading. It's so clear, it's hard to tell where the level is.
I'm also happy with the oil level 1/8 of an inch shy of full as I'll be checking it either a couple hours later, and the next day
 
Since it really is bad to overfill....
Perhaps you can check your dipstick length ? On old Mercedes Diesels the dip stick handles were different colors and if the previous owner did not know that and stuck the wrong one in it... it could be serious.. not usually too serious because they held Eight Quarts.. but none the less people wanted to know the correct amount of oil in their engines.
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Manufacturing variability could theoretically do it. Or your oil pan could be dented slightly. Or you might not be measuring as exactly as you think. Or some oil could be staying in the pan when you drain it. Or a combination of some or all of those. There’s very little difference between 4.5 and 4.8 quarts (~6%). Bone dry with a new filter you should be able to put in ~4.8 qts, then run the engine for a minute, and then add another .2 qts, so the difference between the theory of what should go in and the reality of what you’re seeing is pretty insignificant. As long as the dip-stick is reading full I don’t think there’s anything to worry about.
 
Bottom line is I'm not fond of going over (past) the full line. Having the incorrect dipstick is a non issue I've seen mentioned years ago. Been to several dealerships w/my dipstick compared part #, compared it with their dipstick side by side. I don't require an owner's manual as I've changed oil + filter, dumped a little in the filter, twisted it on, started it, checked the level about 40 min later, drove it about 8-10 mi, parked it, checked the next day, and again a couple days later, and it never took more than 4+ 1/2 qrts, so I'm fine and really don't want to go up and over the full mark. Don't care what the manual sez. The time it was over filled, I took out about 3/4 qrt.
 
Since it really is bad to overfill....
Perhaps you can check your dipstick length ? On old Mercedes Diesels the dip stick handles were different colors and if the previous owner did not know that and stuck the wrong one in it... it could be serious.. not usually too serious because they held Eight Quarts.. but none the less people wanted to know the correct amount of oil in their engines.
Got'cha, and a difference of at the most 1/2qrt, and never getting to the 1/2 mark on the stick, you bet I checked it several times a week. My first day doing limo service, I did about 384 miles- whew!
 
Agreed, indeed! It's never been a don't check it till 1000 mi.kinda thing, especially when putting a lotta miles on it.
 
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