Town car engine oil

Joqular086

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YoungOldMan

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Got it. The link in my first comment is a digital version of your owners manual from Ford’s service website, so you can save that and get to the manual any time. Your engine should hold 5 quarts total, with 4.8ish in the block/pan (4.6 liters x 1.057 = 4.86 quarts) and another 0.2ish in the filter. If someone did just dump 5 quartz in then it would be over full for a bit since the filter would initially be empty.

As for the Kwik change place, they probably didn’t let the oil drain sufficiently and then topped it off using the book amount without actually checking the levels.
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Joqular086

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Joqular086

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YoungOldMan

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But after reading my posts, and knowing that I've been doing this since the early 2000s, what could the possible reason be? Someone @the factory used an oil pan from some other production run? My 4 and1/2 brings it right up to the full line. Are there any other strange birds out there? Is puzzlement!
Manufacturing variability could theoretically do it. Or your oil pan could be dented slightly. Or you might not be measuring as exactly as you think. Or some oil could be staying in the pan when you drain it. Or a combination of some or all of those. There’s very little difference between 4.5 and 4.8 quarts (~6%). Bone dry with a new filter you should be able to put in ~4.8 qts, then run the engine for a minute, and then add another .2 qts, so the difference between the theory of what should go in and the reality of what you’re seeing is pretty insignificant. As long as the dip-stick is reading full I don’t think there’s anything to worry about.
 

Joqular086

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YoungOldMan

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Yes, the Kwik change guys (they're using ecogard oil filters) and blended synthetic oil. I've usually changed oil before the 3k mark 'cause in many situations especially cold weather, I'd be idling just to keep warm, out by myself, watching independent contractors as my assignment (working for a railroad, watching outside contractors so they made it home uninjured. Last time was mid 1990s, when they were using directional boring to bury empty, flexible pipe, for future fibreoptics.). So, cold weather change oil way before 3k. Again, not 5 quarts? Tis a mystery. Perhaps engine was changed out years ago..?? I've had it at least 16-17 years, and have done, when I was younger, actually done oil changes myself, so this is a genuine mystery. No accordian pleats in the pan, this seems to be an earlier, pre-1997 engine, and I'll keep giving it the required TLC as best as possible. There's something going on here, if I had stumbled across this soon after I bought the car, an explanation may have been possible. Is there an engine id# somewhere on the engine? Still until I can get Sherlock interested, fat chance. I'll keep up keeping up, and shaking my head at the advancing rust that will force me to find another ride.
Thank all of you for the feedback and helpful info, don't forget to replace front end parts @ 90k! better than being stranded, and the usual (large) towing fee. Remember 6 of 7 resistance or denial is futile!!
Cheers, and once again, thank you- from a newbie, however you spell it!
You’re welcome. I don’t always like WikiHow, but this is pretty solid and should help you find the serial number: How to Identify a Ford Motor
 

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martinbrown432

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I would recommend you to check the company manual which oil they recommend for, they very well about car's engine so they must better know than us, I know about towing trucks oil I am a driver at towing service in Queens, I can better tell about trucks.
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LTC1997

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I'm in the same boat, after draining the hot engine thoroughly in my '97 TC, and after replacing the filter, 5 quarts looks about 1/2 qt high on the dipstick on level ground with engine warmed up for a few miles.

My '88 Isuzu (bought new) is the same way, the factory oil amount is almost a half-quart too much when checked warm, and I have no dents in the pan.
I have checked this carefully after every gas stop ever since the day I bought the truck new (and found it had been over-filled by over a half-quart). This would be expected on the Isuzu because pulling out the dipstick always first shows the oil to be low, but after re-inserting it I get a fuller reading. I am thinking that there might be an air vent hole along the dipstick tube that isn't open and which causes air in the dipstick tube to heat up and expand, forcing the oil in the tube lower. It's always at least a half-quart difference in the reading after I pull and re-insert the dipstick. I note that the TC doesn't have that particular problem with the oil level reading changing after pulling and re-inserting the dipstick.
Also, the oil on the TC's dipstick doesn't leave as straight of an oil line to read, so I always check it a couple of times. The trans dipstick is the same way on my TC, hard to be sure where that line really is. Even my mower has this minor problem, so I take the average of three readings to be sure.
 
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Joqular086

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Joqular086

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