Open subwoofer grill cover?

jt1998

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My Lincoln
2023 Corsair
If anybody knows how to open the grill covering the subwoofer in the left trunk area, please advise. I'm beginning the steps to see if an aftermarket solution to the "subwoofer delete" situation exists. Happy New Year's!!
 
I couldn't find any instructions for the Corsair but maybe its similar to Bronco in youtube video below? (However Bronco sub is only 175 watt)

From what I've read I don't think you'll be happy with putting an aftermarket sub in there. Too many issues and variables you'll need to deal with. (buzzing, rattling, bad box resonance, bad sound by reflection, dull or too powerful for the rest of speakers, speaker running too hot which can burn out amp/sub/ wiring, etc.

The chip shortage led Lincoln to put a dummy amplifier and sub shell in there, (to meet the goofy NTHSA safety regulations). A custom box and sub might be needed since I don't know of any aftermarket company willing to spend thousands in R/D sound for just a few thousand vehicles. As you may know, the sub box is just as important as the amp and sub. Crappy resonance is a big issue with cheap boxes.

One guy used a sub out of a Ford Fusion, part fp5t-18c808-ab for his Corsair. This way, he was able to program it to work thru Forscan since other aftermarket amps didn't work, but he never said how it sounded. If you do go with an aftermarket amp, get one that is fully adjustable. Because you'll need to dial it in to match the other speakers to sound right. Also "HD radio" probably still won't work due to correct chip not being installed. Also the Corsair has the noise cancelling/reducing system, so I would think using a different speaker wouldn't work as well?

 
Last edited:
I couldn't find any instructions for the Corsair but maybe its similar to Bronco in youtube video below? (However Bronco sub is only 175 watt)

From what I've read I don't think you'll be happy with putting an aftermarket sub in there. Too many issues and variables you'll need to deal with. (buzzing, rattling, bad box resonance, bad sound by reflection, dull or too powerful for the rest of speakers, speaker running too hot which can burn out amp/sub/ wiring, etc.

The chip shortage led Lincoln to put a dummy amplifier and sub shell in there, (to meet the goofy NTHSA safety regulations). A custom box and sub might be needed since I don't know of any aftermarket company willing to spend thousands in R/D sound for just a few thousand vehicles. As you may know, the sub box is just as important as the amp and sub. Crappy resonance is a big issue with cheap boxes.

One guy used a sub out of a Ford Fusion, part fp5t-18c808-ab for his Corsair. This way, he was able to program it to work thru Forscan since other aftermarket amps didn't work, but he never said how it sounded. If you do go with an aftermarket amp, get one that is fully adjustable. Because you'll need to dial it in to match the other speakers to sound right. Also "HD radio" probably still won't work due to correct chip not being installed. Also the Corsair has the noise cancelling/reducing system, so I would think using a different speaker wouldn't work as well?

Thanks so much. I guess I'll keep it stock.
 
I'd try finding a Ford Fusion amp/sub at a junkyard. Maybe $100 and another $100 for dealer to program it if you don't have Forscan? Since its a Ford product, maybe it'll fit and sound better? If not, there's always ebay to sell it.
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If anybody knows how to open the grill covering the subwoofer in the left trunk area, please advise. I'm beginning the steps to see if an aftermarket solution to the "subwoofer delete" situation exists. Happy New Year's!!
There is no way of opening the cover itself without physically cutting it out. Its integrated into the side panel. However that side panel CAN be removed to access said speaker.
 
Here you go:

Removal
1737512932193.webp


NOTE

Left hand (LH) shown, right hand (RH) similar.
NOTE

Removal steps in this procedure may contain installation details.
  1. Remove the following items:
    1. Remove the rear scuff plate trim panel.

      Refer to: Rear Scuff Plate Trim Panel(501-05 Interior Trim and Ornamentation, Removal and Installation).
    2. Remove the D-pillar trim panel.

      Refer to: D-Pillar Trim Panel(501-05 Interior Trim and Ornamentation, Removal and Installation).
    3. Remove the loadspace scuff plate trim panel.

      Refer to: Loadspace Scuff Plate Trim Panel(501-05 Interior Trim and Ornamentation, Removal and Installation).
  1. Position the liftgate opening weather strip aside.

Left hand side

  1. NOTE

    Seats removed for clarity.
    Remove the loadspace trim panel.
    1. Release the loadspace trim panel clips.

      Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover
    2. Release the loadspace trim panel clips.

      Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover
    3. Release and discard the loadspace trim panel clips.

      Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover
    4. Disconnect the luggage compartment power point electrical connector.

Right hand side

  1. NOTE

    Seats removed for clarity.
    Remove the loadspace trim panel.
    1. Release the loadspace trim panel clips.

      Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover
    2. Release the loadspace trim panel clips.

      Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover
    3. Release and discard the loadspace trim panel clips.

      Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover
    4. Disconnect the luggage compartment power point electrical connector.
    5. If equipped.

      Disconnect the power fold seat control switch electrical connector.

Installation

  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
  1. Inspect and position the rear door weather strip lip so that it overlaps the top of the loadspace trim panel.

Copyright © Ford Motor Company
 
@MattMacMan, that set of instructions is exactly what I was looking for, thank you! I might have found an OEM sub replacement, still waiting for my post with details to be approved in this thread: 2023 Lincoln Corsair Subwoofer Delete
Yeah I believe I commented on that thread a few days back. I added a factory woofer to my wifes 24 Reserve II. It needed a new OEM Woofer and DSP and the Amplifier. The wiring is part of the whole body harness and was already there just plugged into "dummy" equipment which has to be there according to the NHTSA. Also I had to reprogram the DSP and ACM in order to enable the wiring as it wasnt just plug and play. I bit of a pain in the @$$ but its got a factory setup that takes up no floor space and sounds much better than it used to.
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