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I tested the battery with a multimeter (engine off) and it reads about 12.2; Turned the engine on, multimeter reads 12.3 -- it never goes higher.Because the system is not operating correctly.
Likely it is not generating power. And a diagnosis is necessary.
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Yeah, I’m at AutoZone right now. The battery charge was too low for their tester to make a decision so I’m charging it now then we’ll retest. But if it’s the alternator, why in the devil is an AutoZone, reman alt $267 w/o the core?! I found a BBB INdustries close out online for $28 - 30 day warrantySounds like an alternator problem.
Some parts stores will test them.
Yeah, I’m at AutoZone right now. The battery charge was too low for their tester to make a decision so I’m charging it now then we’ll retest. But if it’s the alternator, why in the devil is an AutoZone, reman alt $267 w/o the core?! I found a BBB INdustries close out online for $28 - 30 day warrantyFor general measurements
Engine off the battery should be closer to 12.6. 12.4 or higher would be OK
Engine running the voltage should be over 13.5
If you are in the US a free charging system test can be done at a fast moving parts store. (Auto Zone, O'Reillys or ...)
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See attached AZ test results - it's the alternator or diodes in it. Well, somebody got the $28 alternator. I can either buy the same, 30-day warranty, wholesale closeout BBB for $63.99, or the regular inventory, $105 + $40 core (3 year warranty).I have never seen an alternator for under $50 for a modern car. (anything in the last couple of decades)
The alternator on my Navigator was close to $300 before COVID. But my Navigator has every option)
You might check to see if the output in amps is sufficient.
The correct amp rating would be based on optional electrical equipment.
Have a loaded vehicle? Better get the higher amp rated alternator. Or you are going to be here again in a short time.
Going to the AZ site, there is a 135 or a 200 amp alternator. You may not want to buy there, but don't go low on the amp rating.
And the LLW at AZ has some cost.
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So got my NEW (NOT reman) alternator today, Monday — Labor Day, $98 (not installed yet) from Amazon (took 2 days!). So I drove to the store after the 12.2 multimeter tested battery, now multimeter test to 12.44 (tested after driving from AutoZone). I noticed the charging system battery symbol came on but it went off. Why do you think that happened? Could it not be the alternator— maybe it’s a wire shorting out, etc.?Replacing diodes in the alternator is no longer a thing for consumers.
The alternator is bad.
Your car your choice as to replacement.
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I did, that’s where I saw the $28 (no core) BBB and $63 (no core) BBB. But on Saturday, RockAuto charged $54 shipping (get it by Wednesday, Monday Labor Day) plus the $63 and charged $13.99 shipping on a $102 ($34 core) BBB! WTH. But thanks for the suggestion— I just didn’t want to mention the storeIf you haven't already tried it, go to RockAuto.com
Loose connection in the alternator? Just guessing.So got my NEW (NOT reman) alternator today, Monday — Labor Day, $98 (not installed yet) from Amazon (took 2 days!). So I drove to the store after the 12.2 multimeter tested battery, now multimeter test to 12.44 (tested after driving from AutoZone). I noticed the charging system battery symbol came on but it went off. Why do you think that happened? Could it not be the alternator— maybe it’s a wire shorting out, etc.?
Well, I trust and appreciate your expertise and knowledge, man. But I ve heard enoughLoose connection in the alternator? Just guessing.
The alternator has been tested and is known to be bad.
Work from the known to the unknow.
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alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com
I installed that brand new alternator - 2 months old but now I got a new problem -- All lights were turned on - inside and our. You got any ideas?Rebuilding isn't dead yet...
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Though my kit is still sitting on my counter. OP, you might also consider cleaning your ground contacts (batt and alternator) at body locations.