1. Fuel filter. Cleanliness is the most important in this procedure. Half a can of carb cleaner on both ends of the old filter before removal. New filter better be with plugs. Would recommend the OE Motorcraft, but those persistently come open ended with no plugs, just rattling in the box. MANN, Mahle, Hengst are OE quality filters.
2. Serpentine belt, I got myself Motorcraft just in case (mine is 28-29k miles for now), always been happy with Motorcraft serpentines on the Mustang, so why bother with other brands. Haven't done mine, but on modern cars it's a strong hands and fingers exercise, the tensioner is just spring loaded. Manual is handy at routing and some tips.
3. Plugs - Motorcaft or NGK Ruthenium HX. Removal and installation are very easy on the 3.0EB, should be the same or easier. Just remove anything in your way while taking care not to brake anything. Most important:
a. Take a look in the plug wells before removal, look for shades of dirt or gasses that have escaped past the plugs. You should see clean bare metal. Clean around the coils before removal in order to prevent dirt going in the plug wells. The 4.6 and the 3.0 do not have squeese washers on the plugs - just a cone to cone - similar to wheel nuts, so dirt is forbidden there. If you discover suspicious coloration in certain plug well, after removal inspect the receiving cone for damage.
b. Torque - Cyclones and Nano EB's require hilariously small torque on the plugs. 15 n.m. or something - not recalling correctly. My rule is to tighten at no more than 35 n.m. - 25-26 lbf this means that I tighten at exactly 35 N.M. haha The washerless plugs sometimes have instruction for 1/16 to 1/8 turn tightening, but a torque wrench is a better option.
4. PCV valve - if it works leave it alone. Diagnostics catch it immediately, so it works. But if you feel like so, change it.
5. O2 sensors, have them checked with a
scanner, if they operate well, no need to replace. Some O2's would last 200-300k miles. Change the plugs first. Then read the ECU live and for stored missfires. If there are missfires, run a good injector cleaning additive and premium fuel.
6. Fuel. Gasoline is not automotive fuel, it's just fuel. Gasoline has the natural tendency to form carbon and wax/tar/etc. deposits or just chemical deposits from it's flow and combustion. Automotive fuel consists of gasoline or other combustible and a legislation mandated additive pack mainly for dissolving the inherent flow and combustion deposits. In the case that the natural octane rating is not high enough there might be some octane improving additives as well. There is also some percentage of bio fuel which is alcohol.
- That is why premium fuel is better than regular. The regular fuel just barely meets the standard. The premium fuel has stronger additives and cleans the fuel system and combustion chamber much better. Otherwise in modern car regular can be very similar in performance to premium. Although I feel the difference.
So, in short: plugs, if doesn't help, injectors cleaned with additive and premium, if doesn't help, injectors checked, cleaned, replaced, if doesn't help, ignition coils. - all under the condition that
scanner reveals missfires or you could feel them.
Other than that, regular maintenance items, brake pads, rotors, brake caliper sliding boots and pins, special grease lubricant for the sliders and pad contact points to caliper. Must do: 75w-140 in the transfer case or the so-called PTU, 80w-90 in the rear differential. Auto trans full flush with OE Mercon LV. Coolant top up or flush and replace with OE Motorcraft. Belt tensioner and pulley check and replace if needed. Climate system cooling agent top up. Suspension geometry alignment - here you could buy a pair of cam-bolts, they are cheap and the guy at the stand can install them during the alignment procedure. If front tires are worn inside, you can go for 0.5 degrees camber per side and from 0.012 to 0.08 toe-in. Right camber can be made 10% more than the left if in your state the water draining slope is to the right - this way the car goes straight. i.e. left camber 0.5, right 0.55. Rear axle is fully adjustable and can be zeroed fully i.e. everything at exact spec.
Brake fluid change - remember it is DOT 4 LV - low viscosity.
New summer only tires such as Falken Azenis FK-510. Watch out with the pressure and inflate at 22-24 degrees centigrade to spec with dry air. Or inflate more and on the next morning deflate with valves to the ground to let moisture out. Edit: in this season it should be winter only
I go for the quietest and most comfortably riding, they all perform well enough on snow.
Can't think of much more maintenance. Get some touch up paint
inflate the spare tire.
