bank cat 2 check engine

MarkX

Member
120
22
18
the Active Grille shutter is not engine dependant. Attached are the descriptions and procedures of the system
Very interesting and thank you for posting the PDFs. I had no clue that the car was equipped with Active Grille Shutters. Do you have any idea of what the activation parameters are? Presumably they would be a combination of ambient and engine temperatures.
 

Town

Senior Member
4,649
279
83
Ottawa Ontario Canada
Very interesting and thank you for posting the PDFs. I had no clue that the car was equipped with Active Grille Shutters. Do you have any idea of what the activation parameters are? Presumably they would be a combination of ambient and engine temperatures.
See post #14 in this thread which has all the procedures and descriptions for the Active Grille Shutters. The overview and the system description pdfs should give you all the info you asked for.
 

Alkemist

Member
32
2
8
Just to update everyone, i changed the air filter, did the techron, drove for about 50 miles, a tad hard, & the cel went away! appreciate the help, luckily i didnt buy the parts bc i was under a crunch as in ny you only get 10 days to have the inspection done
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Todor

Member
90
13
8
Sofia-Bulgaria
Nice you got it sorted. But, please check when your spark plugs were last changed. An air filter so clogged should cause some other issue first, too big pressure differential across compressors or something like that.
Also, more spirited driving maybe just masked the problem. Check lights and issues in general are provoked and revealed under light and moderate throttle and rpm, that's when the system is in closed loop operation. Under higher load, ECU switches to more or less pre-programmed fuel and timing maps and ignores lambda feedback.
 

Alkemist

Member
32
2
8
Nice you got it sorted. But, please check when your spark plugs were last changed. An air filter so clogged should cause some other issue first, too big pressure differential across compressors or something like that.
Also, more spirited driving maybe just masked the problem. Check lights and issues in general are provoked and revealed under light and moderate throttle and rpm, that's when the system is in closed loop operation. Under higher load, ECU switches to more or less pre-programmed fuel and timing maps and ignores lambda feedback.
Spoke too soon just as i read this before going to get inspection & boom pops right back. Since its almost at 100k, i think i will just do the plugs, and the 2 front o2 sensors. I changed the air filter already, old one was dirty
 

Alkemist

Member
32
2
8
What engine do you have? Procedures for access may differ. There are two oxygen sensors on each bank, the one closest to the cylinder head is heated so as to operate quickly and is the sensor used for the PCM to determine oxygen content to adjust injector firing. The second oxygen sensor is called the "catalyst monitor sensor" and is mounted to the catalytic converter and is used to detect the changing oxygen level through the cat by comparing oxygen level between the first heated oxygen sensor and the second oxygen sensor. The cat should make a substantial difference in oxygen levels between the two sensors.

Attached are the procedures for access to the 2.7 engine oxygen sensors. Changing the cat is not a simple job, see attachments for LH and RH cats.

I will see what I can find on the front active grill shutter.

Have you considered getting a diagnostic from your dealer, since electronic control problems (both problems) are not easy to diagnose oneself.
hope all is well, i cant seem to find anything online, but would you have any diagrams to change the serpentine belt, o2 sensors & for plugs and coils? i am going to do that myself this weekend, thanks a lot!
 

Alkemist

Member
32
2
8
also, what else would you guys recommend to change, fuel filter? pcv valve? i have no idea what the previous owners had changed so would rather be cautious and make sure cars good
______________________________
 

Todor

Member
90
13
8
Sofia-Bulgaria
1. Fuel filter. Cleanliness is the most important in this procedure. Half a can of carb cleaner on both ends of the old filter before removal. New filter better be with plugs. Would recommend the OE Motorcraft, but those persistently come open ended with no plugs, just rattling in the box. MANN, Mahle, Hengst are OE quality filters.

2. Serpentine belt, I got myself Motorcraft just in case (mine is 28-29k miles for now), always been happy with Motorcraft serpentines on the Mustang, so why bother with other brands. Haven't done mine, but on modern cars it's a strong hands and fingers exercise, the tensioner is just spring loaded. Manual is handy at routing and some tips.

3. Plugs - Motorcaft or NGK Ruthenium HX. Removal and installation are very easy on the 3.0EB, should be the same or easier. Just remove anything in your way while taking care not to brake anything. Most important:
a. Take a look in the plug wells before removal, look for shades of dirt or gasses that have escaped past the plugs. You should see clean bare metal. Clean around the coils before removal in order to prevent dirt going in the plug wells. The 4.6 and the 3.0 do not have squeese washers on the plugs - just a cone to cone - similar to wheel nuts, so dirt is forbidden there. If you discover suspicious coloration in certain plug well, after removal inspect the receiving cone for damage.
b. Torque - Cyclones and Nano EB's require hilariously small torque on the plugs. 15 n.m. or something - not recalling correctly. My rule is to tighten at no more than 35 n.m. - 25-26 lbf this means that I tighten at exactly 35 N.M. haha The washerless plugs sometimes have instruction for 1/16 to 1/8 turn tightening, but a torque wrench is a better option.

4. PCV valve - if it works leave it alone. Diagnostics catch it immediately, so it works. But if you feel like so, change it.

5. O2 sensors, have them checked with a scanner, if they operate well, no need to replace. Some O2's would last 200-300k miles. Change the plugs first. Then read the ECU live and for stored missfires. If there are missfires, run a good injector cleaning additive and premium fuel.

6. Fuel. Gasoline is not automotive fuel, it's just fuel. Gasoline has the natural tendency to form carbon and wax/tar/etc. deposits or just chemical deposits from it's flow and combustion. Automotive fuel consists of gasoline or other combustible and a legislation mandated additive pack mainly for dissolving the inherent flow and combustion deposits. In the case that the natural octane rating is not high enough there might be some octane improving additives as well. There is also some percentage of bio fuel which is alcohol.
- That is why premium fuel is better than regular. The regular fuel just barely meets the standard. The premium fuel has stronger additives and cleans the fuel system and combustion chamber much better. Otherwise in modern car regular can be very similar in performance to premium. Although I feel the difference.


So, in short: plugs, if doesn't help, injectors cleaned with additive and premium, if doesn't help, injectors checked, cleaned, replaced, if doesn't help, ignition coils. - all under the condition that scanner reveals missfires or you could feel them.

Other than that, regular maintenance items, brake pads, rotors, brake caliper sliding boots and pins, special grease lubricant for the sliders and pad contact points to caliper. Must do: 75w-140 in the transfer case or the so-called PTU, 80w-90 in the rear differential. Auto trans full flush with OE Mercon LV. Coolant top up or flush and replace with OE Motorcraft. Belt tensioner and pulley check and replace if needed. Climate system cooling agent top up. Suspension geometry alignment - here you could buy a pair of cam-bolts, they are cheap and the guy at the stand can install them during the alignment procedure. If front tires are worn inside, you can go for 0.5 degrees camber per side and from 0.012 to 0.08 toe-in. Right camber can be made 10% more than the left if in your state the water draining slope is to the right - this way the car goes straight. i.e. left camber 0.5, right 0.55. Rear axle is fully adjustable and can be zeroed fully i.e. everything at exact spec.
Brake fluid change - remember it is DOT 4 LV - low viscosity.

New summer only tires such as Falken Azenis FK-510. Watch out with the pressure and inflate at 22-24 degrees centigrade to spec with dry air. Or inflate more and on the next morning deflate with valves to the ground to let moisture out. Edit: in this season it should be winter only :D I go for the quietest and most comfortably riding, they all perform well enough on snow.

Can't think of much more maintenance. Get some touch up paint :) inflate the spare tire.
 
Last edited:

Alkemist

Member
32
2
8
1. Fuel filter. Cleanliness is the most important in this procedure. Half a can of carb cleaner on both ends of the old filter before removal. New filter better be with plugs. Would recommend the OE Motorcraft, but those persistently come open ended with no plugs, just rattling in the box. MANN, Mahle, Hengst are OE quality filters.

2. Serpentine belt, I got myself Motorcraft just in case (mine is 28-29k miles for now), always been happy with Motorcraft serpentines on the Mustang, so why bother with other brands. Haven't done mine, but on modern cars it's a strong hands and fingers exercise, the tensioner is just spring loaded. Manual is handy at routing and some tips.

3. Plugs - Motorcaft or NGK Ruthenium HX. Removal and installation are very easy on the 3.0EB, should be the same or easier. Just remove anything in your way while taking care not to brake anything. Most important:
a. Take a look in the plug wells before removal, look for shades of dirt or gasses that have escaped past the plugs. You should see clean bare metal. Clean around the coils before removal in order to prevent dirt going in the plug wells. The 4.6 and the 3.0 do not have squeese washers on the plugs - just a cone to cone - similar to wheel nuts, so dirt is forbidden there. If you discover suspicious coloration in certain plug well, after removal inspect the receiving cone for damage.
b. Torque - Cyclones and Nano EB's require hilariously small torque on the plugs. 15 n.m. or something - not recalling correctly. My rule is to tighten at no more than 35 n.m. - 25-26 lbf this means that I tighten at exactly 35 N.M. haha The washerless plugs sometimes have instruction for 1/16 to 1/8 turn tightening, but a torque wrench is a better option.

4. PCV valve - if it works leave it alone. Diagnostics catch it immediately, so it works. But if you feel like so, change it.

5. O2 sensors, have them checked with a scanner, if they operate well, no need to replace. Some O2's would last 200-300k miles. Change the plugs first. Then read the ECU live and for stored missfires. If there are missfires, run a good injector cleaning additive and premium fuel.

6. Fuel. Gasoline is not automotive fuel, it's just fuel. Gasoline has the natural tendency to form carbon and wax/tar/etc. deposits or just chemical deposits from it's flow and combustion. Automotive fuel consists of gasoline or other combustible and a legislation mandated additive pack mainly for dissolving the inherent flow and combustion deposits. In the case that the natural octane rating is not high enough there might be some octane improving additives as well. There is also some percentage of bio fuel which is alcohol.
- That is why premium fuel is better than regular. The regular fuel just barely meets the standard. The premium fuel has stronger additives and cleans the fuel system and combustion chamber much better. Otherwise in modern car regular can be very similar in performance to premium. Although I feel the difference.


So, in short: plugs, if doesn't help, injectors cleaned with additive and premium, if doesn't help, injectors checked, cleaned, replaced, if doesn't help, ignition coils. - all under the condition that scanner reveals missfires or you could feel them.

Other than that, regular maintenance items, brake pads, rotors, brake caliper sliding boots and pins, special grease lubricant for the sliders and pad contact points to caliper. Must do: 75w-140 in the transfer case or the so-called PTU, 80w-90 in the rear differential. Auto trans full flush with OE Mercon LV. Coolant top up or flush and replace with OE Motorcraft. Belt tensioner and pulley check and replace if needed. Climate system cooling agent top up. Suspension geometry alignment - here you could buy a pair of cam-bolts, they are cheap and the guy at the stand can install them during the alignment procedure. If front tires are worn inside, you can go for 0.5 degrees camber per side and from 0.012 to 0.08 toe-in. Right camber can be made 10% more than the left if in your state the water draining slope is to the right - this way the car goes straight. i.e. left camber 0.5, right 0.55. Rear axle is fully adjustable and can be zeroed fully i.e. everything at exact spec.
Brake fluid change - remember it is DOT 4 LV - low viscosity.

New summer only tires such as Falken Azenis FK-510. Watch out with the pressure and inflate at 22-24 degrees centigrade to spec with dry air. Or inflate more and on the next morning deflate with valves to the ground to let moisture out. Edit: in this season it should be winter only :D I go for the quietest and most comfortably riding, they all perform well enough on snow.

Can't think of much more maintenance. Get some touch up paint :) inflate the spare tire.
WOW, i would def love to buy a used car off of u. well these parts were pretty cheap, around $170 motorcraft from rockauto so i said i might as well get them as a precaution and do it all as much myself. i doubt i will be able to do it up to ur specs tho haaaaa. & yes, my 07 escalade has 270k miles, never changed 02 or cats.
 

Town

Senior Member
4,649
279
83
Ottawa Ontario Canada
hope all is well, i cant seem to find anything online, but would you have any diagrams to change the serpentine belt, o2 sensors & for plugs and coils? i am going to do that myself this weekend, thanks a lot!
I have attached the procedures for your 3.7 liter:
Serpentine belt - belt routing diagram, belt R&I
Spark plugs and coils - COP R&I, Upper intake manifold R&I, Spark plug R&I, PCV quick release coupling
Oxygen sensors - 1st, 2nd, component locations
PCV - PCV location, PCV R&I

I added the PCV replacement since some were suggesting it as a possible problem. If I missed a needed procedure then let me know and I will get it.
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Attachments

  • 2017 Continental 3.7 Accessory drive belt diagram.pdf
    153.5 KB · Views: 1
  • 2017 Continental 3.7 Accessory drive belt R&I.pdf
    190.1 KB · Views: 1
  • 2017 Continental 3.7 Ignition COP.pdf
    336 KB · Views: 1
  • 2017 Continental 3.7 PCV quick release coupling for COP R&I.pdf
    370.2 KB · Views: 1
  • 2017 Continental 3.7 upper intake manifold R&I.pdf
    489.3 KB · Views: 1
  • 2017 Continental 3.7 spark plug replacement.pdf
    249.4 KB · Views: 1
  • 2017 Continental 3.7 Catalyst Monitor Sensor - 2nd O2 sensor.pdf
    297.2 KB · Views: 1
  • 2017 Continental 3.7 Electronic eng ctls - component locations.pdf
    410.6 KB · Views: 1
  • 2017 Continental 3.7 Heated Oxygen sensor - 1st O2 sensor.pdf
    247.2 KB · Views: 1
  • 2017 Continental 3.7 PCV location.pdf
    153.8 KB · Views: 1

Alkemist

Member
32
2
8
I have attached the procedures for your 3.7 liter:
Serpentine belt - belt routing diagram, belt R&I
Spark plugs and coils - COP R&I, Upper intake manifold R&I, Spark plug R&I, PCV quick release coupling
Oxygen sensors - 1st, 2nd, component locations
PCV - PCV location, PCV R&I

I added the PCV replacement since some were suggesting it as a possible problem. If I missed a needed procedure then let me know and I will get it.
wow, thanks a lot! i am going to print these out right now. hopefully after this, all should be fine, this will definitely help a ton, since its my first time working on it
 

Town

Senior Member
4,649
279
83
Ottawa Ontario Canada
WOW, i would def love to buy a used car off of u. well these parts were pretty cheap, around $170 motorcraft from rockauto so i said i might as well get them as a precaution and do it all as much myself. i doubt i will be able to do it up to ur specs tho haaaaa. & yes, my 07 escalade has 270k miles, never changed 02 or cats.
The fuel filter on the 3.7 like the 2.7 has a fuel filter inside the tank attached to the pump and fuel level module. Only the 3.0 twin turbo has a separate easily replaceable fuel filter. How many miles do you have on your car that you need lots of maintenance.
 

Alkemist

Member
32
2
8
The fuel filter on the 3.7 like the 2.7 has a fuel filter inside the tank attached to the pump and fuel level module. Only the 3.0 twin turbo has a separate easily replaceable fuel filter. How many miles do you have on your car that you need lots of maintenance.
ok, then i will not be changing the fuel filter. its at 90k miles. a cat cel intermittently pops up, so i was just going to do some fixes that are easy and at the mileage given i am unsure if previous owner did anything
______________________________
 

Town

Senior Member
4,649
279
83
Ottawa Ontario Canada
ok, then i will not be changing the fuel filter. its at 90k miles. a cat cel intermittently pops up, so i was just going to do some fixes that are easy and at the mileage given i am unsure if previous owner did anything
There are a lot of maintenance items for the 90,000 to 100,000 miles time frame:

1. Change spark plugs,
2. Change coolant,
3. Change Automatic transmission oil (many would recommend earlier changes at about 50,000 miles or less),
4. Change Power Transfer Unit differential oil (check colour since seals can leak, volume is fixed by filling to fill plug but owner manual says 450 ml, Service manual says 700 ml, and one user has put in 1 liter; the requirement is for synthetic 75W-140 differential oil),
5. Change cabin air filter (every 20,000 miles),
6. Change engine air filter (every 30,000 miles or if dirty at oil change interval),
7 Engine oil and filter change (minimum every year, but also when directed by oil monitoring system (if less than a year old oil), or 5,000 miles in severe service),
8. Replace PCV .
9. Rear differential oil has a longer service life.

If you want procedures then let me know.
 

Alkemist

Member
32
2
8
There are a lot of maintenance items for the 90,000 to 100,000 miles time frame:

1. Change spark plugs,
2. Change coolant,
3. Change Automatic transmission oil (many would recommend earlier changes at about 50,000 miles or less),
4. Change Power Transfer Unit differential oil (check colour since seals can leak, volume is fixed by filling to fill plug but owner manual says 450 ml, Service manual says 700 ml, and one user has put in 1 liter; the requirement is for synthetic 75W-140 differential oil),
5. Change cabin air filter (every 20,000 miles),
6. Change engine air filter (every 30,000 miles or if dirty at oil change interval),
7 Engine oil and filter change (minimum every year, but also when directed by oil monitoring system (if less than a year old oil), or 5,000 miles in severe service),
8. Replace PCV .
9. Rear differential oil has a longer service life.

If you want procedures then let me know.
thanks a lot brother! other than the engine oil, the other fluids I am going to hold off on changing till I hit 100k as theres really nowhere to drive. I had the car detailed, the guy was in shock at the mileage given its a 2019, the company did 90k miles in about 15 months. i did the air filter already, the cabin this weekend
 

Alkemist

Member
32
2
8
does anyone know how to get service records for what was done on the vehicle previously, i asked and one told me its a privacy issue, but there must be a way to see what work the dealer has performed on the car
 
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