96 headliner repair or replacement / color chart?

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blackjak

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Friend of ours has a 347 --low mileage engine--gradual loss of oil pressure finally to the point driving the car was out of the question. we pulled the engine and broke it down and found the \"thrust bearing\" on the center main was kaput. The crankshaft end play had about 1/2 inch slack and could be slid back and forth very easy. First clue was the back thrust bearing----gone--.. It has a AOD--Lentech valve body and 91/2 torque converter (no balloon plate). No the car does not have nitrous or other power adders. First guy with the correct diagnosis wins a prize----or something ---
 
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It came from DSS Racing and is another example of their quality control going down hill.

OR the converter balooned up, pushing the crank foward, ruining the thrust bearing.
 
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Was the rear thrust surface actually gone or just disintegrated. If it was not there to begin with, that could be the problem (QC).

I\'m not an expert but doesn\'t a balooning converter grow radially rather than axially?
W. V. Kelly
 
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[quote name=\'blackjak\']The rear thrust surface was disintergrated--it wasn\'t a DSS. I\'m leaning toward the converter. Which way does it grow---dunno.[/QUOTE]

When it balloons, it pushes against the crank. If a converter has impressions of the flywheel bolts on its body, it has ballooned in service. I\'ve seen it myself.

Install the converter into the trans on the bench. Be sure it\'s seated all the way. Now measure how far back the converter face is from the front of the bellhousing. Don\'t know exact spec; should be at least about 3/4\"; an inch or 1 1/8\" is better. If it\'s less, the converter or bellhousing is wrong for the application. The trans should be damaged from a condition like this too.

I\'m assuming you\'re sure the trans was installed correctly. Did you check for converter endplay before separating the trans from the engine? No converter endplay = all kinds of bad shit is gonna happen.
 
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I has to be one or more of what Eddie has discribed.
I have three experiences with this sort of thing.
I see crank bolt impressions in a stock convertor behind my KB blower. I pays not costs to use a converter with an anti ballon plate installed if the car is used for drag racing.
I lost a transmission in my 02 F150 from balloning the converter pulling as much as 12,000 lbs GCW behind a stock 4.6L motor, up steep hills at grunting rpm. It ground up the flat bearings and took out a lot of other parts and completely did the trans in. Had a custom build done with a new diesel double clutch converter and all heavy duty parts by Level 10.
Saw a main worn in a Ford 2.9L v6 years ago, to the point the flywheel hit the block at the starter ring gear. No big power there to cause it.
Investigation should uncover the cause, if not found it will happen again.
Check crankshaft for damage from this. Roughness and end play with a new bearing in place.
 
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I don\'t know about the installation that wasn\'t our \"doings\". When we pulled the engine the converter came out of the transmission stuck to the flywheel --had to pry it off. As far as we can tell the transmission still works ??? It is a Precision Ind. converter-we called them and they said hmmmmm not a common occurance as they are \"billit\" built. They said send it back and they would check it out..You and Blugrass7 are \'THE MANS\" sounds like you know whats going on and more importantly how to avoid a second disaster.. THANKS A BUNCH for your experience and advise...
 
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Well maybe Precision Industries thinks it is not a common occurance but it happened
to me as well. Don\'t get me wrong, I love their converter was in the car for ages with a lockup. Just had it converted to non-lock 1 piece shaft. This time I removed all the paint
from the snout then polished a little with 600 grit and greased the hell out it
for re-install. Just replaced trans with one from Silver Fox.....seems great.
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We\'re sending it back and going to have anti balloon plate installed --maybe tighten it up a bit also. The odd part of this is the car probably had less than 2500 miles on it and to my knowledge never had been to the track. Think I\'ll stay with my Art Carr set up.
 
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Obvoiusly there was forward pressure for some reason. I had PI converter which was in someone elses car before mine.

I also seen the same thing happen on a stick car (jasons old car that Steve GR40 now has), maybe proffessional engine builder would know better, cause in a Auto I would have to say if the converter was not in far enough that would be my only thought?? Balooning, well there were a lot of flywheel marks on my stock converter, and a little on the PI one, and my motor had 130,000 miles????

I would love to know if there is something else that can cause it. found this

http://http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/trantsb.html
 
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Dunno --The converter didn\'t have any marks on it but it was stuck to the flywheel when we puled the engine. It is possible it wasn\'t properly installed. To be on the safe side we got a new one. we put it together today and the converter went in real good. We haven\'t removed the crank from the old engine so we don\'t know if gonna be a boat anchor or what. It\'s a forged crank and would hate to have to scrap it.
 
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[quote name=\'Ricks90billblass\']Did you install the 1/8\" (approx) spacer plate between the block and bellhousing when put the combo together?[/QUOTE]


Ooooh, good one, forgot about that
 
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OK, I know one time I installed my converter and thought it was seated and went to bolt up the tranny and I couldn\'t get the tranny in the last 1/4\" or so. I pulled it apart to find I needed to get the converter in what felt like a second notch. I remember from a previous post that your converter stuck to the flex plate, so I guess you\'ll never know for sure.:chin:
My AOD was built by Lentech too. I went with a single input shaft and wide ratio gearset and a 10\" converter.
 
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Yeah , your right ---this friend of ours had the engine and trans installed at a shop so we don\'t really know if it was a botch job or Town Car balloned. When we send the Town Car back to PI maybe we\'ll have a better idea of what the problem was.
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Is it possible the engine had been set up at one time for a manual transmission? Did you check the end of the crank for a brass bearing? Hey, s#@t happins!
 
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