5.4L Timing Procedure

jerelwoods

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I’m in the process of doing the timing on my 07 Navigator after researching codes P0018 & P0022 causing rough idle & engine stalling, and I have a couple of questions...
1. Will an oiling issue cause this that can be reversed without redoing the timing?
2. (Main issue) How can I remove a stripped fan clutch bolt, or can I do this procedure without removing it?
A little background on the vehicle: I just bought it less than two weeks ago 🤦🏽‍♂️ and this happened within the first week. After doing my research I bought the timing kit. Took off both valve covers to find someone has been in here already and changed the cam solenoids, but looks like the factory phasers & chain. Haven’t taken off the front cover yet because the fan clutch bolt was stripped already which means they’ve probably been in there to. Not sure what they changed in there if anything, but it sure would be nice if I didn’t have to get in there. With new solenoids maybe it’s possible they changed guides or tensioners? Would I be able to feel actual slack in the chain by hand? Could I get away with changing phasers only maybe? Any insight would be helpful. Thanks.
 
You might check YouTube and search for the FordTechMakuloco channel. He has tons of videos on the 5.4L and, specifically, videos on timing and cam phasers, etc.
 
I’m in the process of doing the timing on my 07 Navigator after researching codes P0018 & P0022 causing rough idle & engine stalling, and I have a couple of questions...
1. Will an oiling issue cause this that can be reversed without redoing the timing?
2. (Main issue) How can I remove a stripped fan clutch bolt, or can I do this procedure without removing it?
A little background on the vehicle: I just bought it less than two weeks ago 🤦🏽‍♂️ and this happened within the first week. After doing my research I bought the timing kit. Took off both valve covers to find someone has been in here already and changed the cam solenoids, but looks like the factory phasers & chain. Haven’t taken off the front cover yet because the fan clutch bolt was stripped already which means they’ve probably been in there to. Not sure what they changed in there if anything, but it sure would be nice if I didn’t have to get in there. With new solenoids maybe it’s possible they changed guides or tensioners? Would I be able to feel actual slack in the chain by hand? Could I get away with changing phasers only maybe? Any insight would be helpful. Thanks.
Oiling issue won't cause it, you have to remove fan to get into timing chain-have a garage remove it, you can't change timing without getting in there, feeling slack will give you a clue but won't fix it, new phasers won't change the timing if it skipped a tooth, you really need to get in there and change everything that is needed. What do those codes say it is? It looks like they dumped that off on you but ok if it was cheap.
 
Oiling issue won't cause it, you have to remove fan to get into timing chain-have a garage remove it, you can't change timing without getting in there, feeling slack will give you a clue but won't fix it, new phasers won't change the timing if it skipped a tooth, you really need to get in there and change everything that is needed. What do those codes say it is? It looks like they dumped that off on you but ok if it was cheap.

The codes read crank position over retarded bank 2, something else to do with timing, and it’s making it throw multiple misfire codes. I’m getting back into it today & giving it one last shot to get this nut off myself. I’m going to buy a strap wrench to hold the pulley while I turn the stripped fan clutch bolt with a monkey wrench. And theres no doubt it was dumped on me. But, for what I paid, and since I’m doing the work myself it’ll still be worth it, it just sucks that there’s people like that. What if I didn’t just happen to be a mechanic? Anyway, thanks for the response.
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Oh man, I didn't realize you are a mechanic! Ha, not much I can say to help.
 
Oh man, I didn't realize you are a mechanic! Ha, not much I can say to help.

Lol, no problem. Thanks for replying tho, I actually watched that guys videos on this process. I am a mechanic, but I’ve never done this specific job. I have the mechanical knowhow to get it done, just missing a few details. I pretty much got the main thing I need to know which is I can’t do any of this logically without taking it all apart.
 
Lol, no problem. Thanks for replying tho, I actually watched that guys videos on this process. I am a mechanic, but I’ve never done this specific job. I have the mechanical knowhow to get it done, just missing a few details. I pretty much got the main thing I need to know which is I can’t do any of this logically without taking it all apart.
I was a mechanic too...……...maybe try an air chisel on that nut.
 
I was a mechanic too...……...maybe try an air chisel on that nut.

Thought about that, problem is the truck is at home not at the shop with the air supply. I either gotta figure something else out or buy an air compressor because hand tools aren’t getting it.
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Go to about 5:45 in this video. Talks about fan clutch and a tool he uses. Not sure if this will help with bolt being stripped or not.

 
Wedge between the clutch and the pulley with 2 bolts, nuts, and sleeves to put tension on the threads and it should spin out. (force them apart and turn).
 
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Bad oil pump can cause issues as these chains must be tensioned with the oil system. weak oil pump or clogged pick up screen from broken plastic guide material will cause chain slap as well as chain jumping teeth. I have seen the front cover nearly worn thru from excessive chain slap.
As to the water pump. I myself would use a large chissel to break it loose and repair it after pulled. possibly grind it down a bit to accept the next smaller wrench or repace the hub, depends on your budget~!
 
Hadn’t been back to this thread because I left the truck sitting for a while in frustration, but I actually just started back working on it last week... I used a die grinder and cut a grove into the fan clutch bolt, then beat it off with a crowbar and big hammer. I beat the fan clutch off to get to the bolt but got another one for 35 bucks. So after months it’s finally off. Finished removing the rest of the pulleys and the cover and started installing my new parts. New cam phasers, chains, guides, tensioners, sprocket, oil pump, vtc solenoids, and water pump. Got the timing lined up and bolted the cover back on. Only problem is the water pump that came with my kit has a smaller diameter fan clutch attachment. Didn’t notice until I put it all back together and tried to put my fan clutch on. Smh. So looks like I’ll just be putting the old pump back on. There wasn’t anything wrong with the old one was just replacing because the kit came with one. Luckily I don’t have to take the cover back off to do it. Other than that and bolting my valve covers back down and connecting all my wiring back I’m almost done. It’s just so hot in Texas I’m taking my time lol.
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