2017 MKX possible electrical issue

Mjwoodlock

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Hey everyone,

My 2017 MKX's battery was dead when I went to start it 2 days ago; after I had the car jump started the lane assist, cruise control, turn signals, and winshield wipers weren't working, also git a message to check the headlamp system. After about 20 minutes the systems started working again. This has been happening intermittently until this morning when the battery was dead again. I can't get into the dealer until July, but I had the battery and charging system checked today and they were fine. Also there was no error codes except for a low voltage error from this morning.

Forgot to add that the volume controls and the information display controls on the steering wheel work fine.

Any ideas on what's going on with my vehicle?

P.S. I had the battery replaced this spring.
 
It looks like you're not driving it enough to keep the battery charged. I make it a point to drive mine for at least 20 minutes every few days. These newer cars with a lot of electronics tend to drain the battery if not driven.
 
It looks like you're not driving it enough to keep the battery charged. I make it a point to drive mine for at least 20 minutes every few days. These newer cars with a lot of electronics tend to drain the battery if not driven.
Hello C Krohn, I completely disagree, I've owned multiple Ford over the last 10 years, I've left them for weeks at the airport, all have started with no problems.
I am currently (LOL) researching a similar problem on my 2017 MKX BL. If I leave the car for 3 or more days the battery is flat.
(Under 8 volts which is enough to trigger the low battery system and not allow the car to power up.)
After doing some research I did the following:

Make sure car is off no key no accessories. Leave door open as you might need to get in car.
Remove battery clamp (use a magnetic wrench so as not to drop the screw into the belly pan) Don't ask!
Then pull battery forward and undo the rear most nut on the negative (rear) terminal.
Remove negative terminal from battery.
Using a test meter that can check amperage. put the red test pin on the negative connector and touch the black test pin on the negative battery post.
It might spark and the headlights will flash for a second.
Check amperage draw on meter. If it shows a voltage pull about a few milliamps you have a faulty circuit or module.
Mine is pulling 4.65amps more than enough to drain a battery in a few days.
I pulled each fuse on the engine compartment fuse box and each time tested the draw by putting the black test probe on the negative battery post.
I did not find a faulty circuit.
This is where I got frustrated. I tried to access the passenger compartment fuse box. Its behind the drivers side trim panel that's attached to the airbag!!
I could not get that panel off (I did notice that the trim connectors were damaged so someone has tried this before.)
I gave up on this and will have to get the dealer involved (Car is out of 4yr warranty period)

I have heard of this problem on Ford Edges before so its not a unique issue to this body family.
If your car, truck, SUV is having similar problems then I'll bet you have a fault somewhere.
I also own a 2016 Ford Focus and ran the same test with no voltage draw.
I hope this helps.
 
Roger 77,
How did you resolve the issue. I am looking at a used 2017 MKX BL and am trying to get a sense of the scope and severity of items that may come up. Thanks in advance.
I've not resolved it, going to get a quote from the dealer. I did buy an extended warranty so have to do some checking.
 
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I've not resolved it, going to get a quote from the dealer. I did buy an extended warranty so have to do some checking.
Any other thoughts recommendations to a potential buyer of 2017 MKX BL at approx 48000miles? Except to buy extended warranty?
 
Any other thoughts recommendations to a potential buyer of 2017 MKX BL at approx 48000miles? Except to buy extended warranty?
Hi mc3, with BL's you need to decide on the package you want. They are very specific in interior color choices. Download the MY17 brochure for BL and decide on the packages. I had to have Revel Optima and 21 way seats. Really wanted auto cruise control but after looking for 4 months when 1 came up in TX (I live in Phoenix) with 28k miles and the exact spec I wanted, 2.7l AWD Indulgence interior, this has the custom brown exterior paint also, I would have took a Platinum white also. I literally drove my Edge Sport to TX and traded it.
So my advice is be specific on what you want, give yourself some wiggle room on choices, and be patient, BL's are rare models, mine was stickered new at $66,500. I paid 1/2 that. Try to find a low milage one, mine had 28k miles. I suspect most BL's were bought for wives, and there are low milage cars out there. JUST BE PATIENT
 
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Any other thoughts recommendations to a potential buyer of 2017 MKX BL at approx 48000miles? Except to buy extended warranty?
Having just reread my reply, I guess I did not answer it in the way you were looking for. I have owned a MY13 Edge, MY15 Edge sport, A MY14 F150 KR.
The last 2 with the V6 ecoboost. In my view very reliable engines. Not had any issues with them, this is an obvious module problem, finding out which one is probably going to be a pain. Like I said buy a low milage one, pay a little extra but they are out there.
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Update: Dealer wants $185 to just look at the problem, The MKX has been good for about 7 weeks. It has only failed to start on 1 occasion, and did start after turning off and on. Checked battery after trip and saw 12.4v.
Today it will not start, checked voltage 3.4v, ca was sat for about 4 days, Its being charged now. Checked dealer records and it had a passenger seat heater module replaced before I got it.
So I'm going to unplug the passenger seat and see if the drain on the battery has been eliminated. If not then its back to checking all the outlets and system plugs. Going to be a pain to troubleshoot. I will update when I or if I find the problem.
 
Update: I charged the battery, ran a battery test, Battery is OK. Checked for current draw (parasitic draw)
No draw on battery, before it was about 4.5 amps (that's a lot) then I noticed that the last time I did this every time I touched the test probe to the negative terminal the lights would flash for a few seconds. This time they did not flash.
After scratching my head for a while I realized that the proximity sensors on the car were drawing power from the battery.
I had the keys in my pocket.
So I moved the keys to another room and tried it again, no power draw and no flashing lights.

The MKX has a feature that senses the key and when you get close to it the lights turn on.
Is it possible that due to it sensing the key it keeps the proximity sensors active.
I suggest that anyone having a problem with a draining battery that is intermittent and not due to battery problems, keep your keys at least 20ft from the vehicle when its parked.
I normally keep the keys next to the garage door, so less than 5 feet from the car. I'm going to try leaving them in the bedroom to see if this solves the problem.
 
It is most likely the TCU1 (Telematic Control Unit) module: This module uses a modem that talks over cellular 3G to a Ford server. Because 3G has been mostly phased out, most likely the unit keeps on trying to establish communication. Ford has a 4G Upgrade kit TSB. This module is served by 5A fuse 17. This is a dual fuse 17 & 18 and 18 is usually not used. Best corrective action is if this module is not being used is pull the fuse out and leave it at that. Other than this, strongly recommended looking up Ford TSB Customer Satisfaction Program 21B09 3G Telematics Control Unit to 4G Upgrade Kit. Again, most 3G networks have been phased out. Look up Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics YouTube 2-video series: "Ford-Lincoln Owners: THIS may be DRAINING your Battery Overnight! (Lincoln MKX -Part 1)" and Part 2. Also look up another of his videos titled "Dead Battery? "Intermittent DRAW? OVERNIGHT LOGGING!! (17 Lincoln MKC)" This parasitic draw is intermittent so a lot more difficult to catch. Dealerships don't want to take time to isolate the true problem and just keep on swapping batteries.
 
Hi Roger, did you resolve the issue? I'm struggling againt the parasitic draw problem. I found that pulling fuse 13 drops the current from 1.2 to 0.3. Still a huge parasitic draw, though. Anyone has any thoughts?
Update: I charged the battery, ran a battery test, Battery is OK. Checked for current draw (parasitic draw)
No draw on battery, before it was about 4.5 amps (that's a lot) then I noticed that the last time I did this every time I touched the test probe to the negative terminal the lights would flash for a few seconds. This time they did not flash.
After scratching my head for a while I realized that the proximity sensors on the car were drawing power from the battery.
I had the keys in my pocket.
So I moved the keys to another room and tried it again, no power draw and no flashing lights.

The MKX has a feature that senses the key and when you get close to it the lights turn on.
Is it possible that due to it sensing the key it keeps the proximity sensors active.
I suggest that anyone having a problem with a draining battery that is intermittent and not due to battery problems, keep your keys at least 20ft from the vehicle when its parked.
I normally keep the keys next to the garage door, so less than 5 feet from the car. I'm going to try leaving them in the bedroom to see if this solves the problem.
Hi Roger, did you resolve the issue? I'm struggling againt the parasitic draw problem. I found that pulling fuse 13 drops the current from 1.2 to 0.3. Still a huge parasitic draw, though. Anyone has any thoughts?
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Hi Roger, did you resolve the issue? I'm struggling againt the parasitic draw problem. I found that pulling fuse 13 drops the current from 1.2 to 0.3. Still a huge parasitic draw, though. Anyone has any thoughts?
You may not get a reply from Roger. The last time he was seen here was on April 10, 2022.

Peter
 
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