Thank you for you for your reply, I should have provide more details in my original post. The scenario that occurs is that I'll cycle the key and, with my limited experience, it seems to not be recognizing something to it allow it to start. If I remove the key, put it back in, cycle from park into neutral, back into park and remove the key fully during each "cycle" it will eventually turn over and start up right away perfectly. This can take 5 attempts, or 20.
I have a float charger that I use over the winter to aid in preventing the battery (NAPA gold, approx. 6 months old) from depleting and the starter is new. Battery tests 12v consistently even in cold climate and has OE cold cranking amperage. Block heater is utilized as needed. It does start up very well, when it wants to. I currently have a neutral safety switch on order and I'll get that install as it's cheap and it wouldn't hurt as it's the original. Maybe there's an issue with the shift cable, but once again, I'm not to familiar enough to know what's considered normal slack. The shifter feels tight and responsive. I use full synthetic engine oil, a quality filter and a full tune up was done less then 40,000km ago; I have no indication it's a mechanical fault currently and am leaning towards something electrical. No faults have ever become active. This issue only occurs during extremely cold temperatures. It's flawless in the summer months.
Your suggestion regarding the PATS system (I wasn't aware of this, thank you) does seem like a logical direction, though there is nothing that comes up indicating on the dash of a security related warning. I'm not sure if it's supposed to. The only red light that stays illuminated when I fully cycle the key, as if to start it, is the one shown in my original post message. This may be completely normal; I'm not educated enough regarding this to make that determination.
Long story short, I'm primarily looking for any advice on some affordable components that I could swap out before I send it to mechanic for, what I'm assuming will be an arm and a leg into diagnostics. I live on a tight income and I'm trying to eliminate some of the basics that I can do myself.
Appreciate your time, thanks.
There are two conditions that are similar
Engine cranks (starter is working) and does not start. This is called a no start condition
Starter does not work or does not crank the engine. This is called a no crank condition.
The diagnosis and repairs for the two conditions are very much different. Which condition are you experiencing in very cold temps?
Other, ......................
.........the vehicle NEEDS a working brake light circuit in order to shift out of park.
......... it may be possible at extremely cold temps that the PATS system is not working correctly. This could prevent an engine cranking.
.......... when operating a vehicle with a 12v battery in ambient of -12c or less, a good battery may not be good enough. The battery would have to be very good or near to 100% fully charged. This is because electronics to operate the engine need good current. And the starting system is being taxed at those temps. At a -30c temps there are many obstacles to an engine not starting. Oil engine oil, poor cable and/or connections, a battery less than fully charged. Older spark plugs, Other deferred maintenance.
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