1997 town car transmission slipping

[fmonthefly]

I got in my Town Car the other day and put it in drive and would not shift into 2nd gear. I tried various things like manual shifting and it worked but had to wait for revs to drop all the way down. Now I'm having same trouble with 3rd gear. However if I leave shifter in 2nd it shifts from 1st to second but I have to go easy on accelerator or it slips. Fluid is clean and full. Any ideas? I was considering Lucas transmission fix. Car has almost 230k miles and don't want to go for a new transmission. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Fmonthefly

 

[Slick Fan]

First of all, let me me say I am not to be considered any genuine authority on this matter, I'm only judging from personal experience. A greater web-search may provide more sound advise.

That being said, it sounds to me like your tranny is in trouble. Sorry!
I would bet that (with an electronically controlled shift trans such as yours) your shift solenoids are possibly in question, beyond that, there may be valve body issues. There are a couple drum bands that are controlled by servo pistons, although these generally grab the bands on reverse & overdrive. The 2-3 shift in between should be mainly hydraulic. The hydraulic commands to the servos (servo pistons) can surely be compromised by gunk in the system.
At this point, a full system flush (burping the offending contaminants) may fix the problem...otherwise, a complete teardown may be needed .

Again, this is simply my opinion...sorry I don't have better advise.

 

[Town]

Hi fmonththefly,

When selecting gear shift position 2, after startup, the transmission selects the features to start in 2nd gear and there will not be a 1 to 2 shift. I would think that your line pressure is low, perhaps because of an EPC solenoid problem that can be tested with line pressure. As Slick Fan says there are a lot of possibilities, so a diagnosis would be good as a first step if the fluid level is correct and the fluid is clear and red.

Good luck.

 

[fmonthefly]

Thank you Slick Fan and Town for your input. I especially want to thank Town because you had helped me in the past with the level tide in my car and I never got a chance to say thank you because I'm not that adept at using forums. So, thank you for the other time. The level ride works fine. However, when I start off with the gear selector on 2 it does start out in 1st. Always did. Now I tried starting with selector in D and when I get to about 15 mph I shift down to 2 and car shifts into 2nd. However I have to let off gas until rpm's drop way down and it slips in. Same thing when I shift to D (with less slipping. I have no idea what the procedure is to properly diagnose the transmission. Fluid is full and clean. Do I need special tools/equipment to test the line pressure that you mentioned? As always, any input is greatly appreciated!

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[fmonthefly]

Dear Town, let me apologize. You are correct about stating out in 2nd gear. There is no 1st gear. The car slips a tiny bit when I start out in 2nd and when I reach about 28-30 mph I let off gas and shift to D and it goes right in to 3rd and then overdrive. Could it be this transmission is repairable? Perhaps a solenoid? Should I try that Lucas transmission fix additive? I saw many testimonials on YouTube. The car has 223k miles, but other than som A/C work the car is fine. As always, any advice is greatly appreciated

 

[Town]

Hi fmonthefly,

The engine and transmission are under more load when starting in 2nd gear but there should be no slipping. You suggest your trans is not slipping much under that extra load so the slipping you are feeling could be the torque converter. Your observation that revs are high and slow to drop when you want the car to shift manually out of second to 3rd also suggests the torque converter is failing. A good trans shop will quickly diagnose your problem.

What happens when you put the trans in D and leave it there so trans works automatically?

Good luck.

 

[fmonthefly]

When I leave in D it stays in 1st gear. Won't shift at all

 

[fmonthefly]

I can star in D and then shift down to 2, let revs drop and it wil slowly shift into 2 then after about 28 mph I can shift into D by letting off gas and let rpm's drop a bit and I'm sailing. OD kicks in and I can drive at highway speed. Again what is your feeling about Lucas Trans Fix additive?

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[Town]

Hi fmonthefly,

Well that certainly describes your problem in needing to shift manually. I don't think a transmission additive is going to fix your transmission. I would get a diagnosis from a well respected shop.

Good luck.

 

[fmonthefly]

Thank you very much

 

[fmonthefly]

Hey guys. Hope all are well. I've been driving my other for now but I need to get back to fixing my 1997 town cars transmission. Question. Did Lincoln use a modulator on the transmission in my car? Anyone know?

 

[fmonthefly]

I have another question. My brake lights are not working. Only the high stop light is working. All bulbs/fuses are good. Someone told me that those lights are wired through the directional switch and if I change that switch it should fix brake light problem. Any ideas? Any input would, as always, be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank

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[TABBOOMA]

Hey guys. Hope all are well. I've been driving my other for now but I need to get back to fixing my 1997 town cars transmission. Question. Did Lincoln use a modulator on the transmission in my car? Anyone know?

Your transmission is a fully electronically controlled transmission. No modulator as I thing you might be thinking of. Electronic transmissions were introduced into the Town Car chassis in mid-production year 1992.

I have another question. My brake lights are not working. Only the high stop light is working. All bulbs/fuses are good. Someone told me that those lights are wired through the directional switch and if I change that switch it should fix brake light problem. Any ideas? Any input would, as always, be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank

Frank,

Yes, the brake light current must pass through the MFS. Before you start throwing parts at it, perhaps you should test the brake lamp circuits within the switch. All it takes is an ohmmeter.

Everything you need to do so is in the diagrams below.

Good luck.

 

[fmonthefly]

Wow. Thank you so much! That's what I thought about Trans. Was just hoping : ). Thanks for the brake light info and MFS schematic. I really appreciate it. Frank

 

[fmonthefly]

If I read the instructions and schematic right it seems that the hazard lights pass through, or ar a part of the MFS. MY HAZARD LIGHTS NEVER WORKED! After I put the ohm meter to work I will know fairly quickly if I need a new switch. I already found a few on eBay. Hopefully, with your help I can get to the cause of my problems rather quickly. Thank you again. Frank

 

[TABBOOMA]

If the ohmmeter tests on the MFS check out check to see if there is B+ on circuit 511 (LG) with the brake pedal pushed activating the brake light switch. The switch must be working because you said your hi-mount stop light was working. I think you have the procedure to check the hazard lamp circuits as well since you say they don't work.

GL.

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[fmonthefly]

Will do just that. Hopefully get to it on Sunday. With the risk of being redundant....".thank you

 

[step66]

Always use an ATRA affilliated shop! Do not trust this to a chain store type service centre!

 

[fmonthefly]

Never do. Thanks. Always use mom and pop type biz when I can