10 Amp Alternator/Regulator Fuse Melted - Welded in Fuse Block

[MonkeyMuggs]

97 Lincoln Town Car.

I've checked for bad wires, shorts, etc & there everything appears OK. I had my alternator checked 2x. Alternator is bad. (Battery is new - 2 months old). I got new alternator & need to install it soon, as this Lincoln is the only car I have with me (out of town).


After extensive research, I think/hope the internal voltage regulator was the culprit. I sure hope so, as I am no mechanic & am "new" to doing/attempting my own repairs. Again, thanks to this forum and YouTube, etc. I feel pretty confident/comfortable swapping the alternator.

But I am quite worried and at a loss as to how/what to do in order to "fix" or "replace" the 10 amp alternator/regulator fuse in engine bay box? It is totally melted into the plastic holder! I've tried hunting down, searching for a 97 Town Car fuse block ......but my searches have produced next to nothing! It appears that the Alternator/Regulator fuse is/was the only fuse that got melted/welded. The alternator will likely get my car back on the rode keep it from shutting down (I was told I was running on battery only).

But this fuse being all melted/welded (no space to jam another fuse & I can not see a way of getting the blades to connect/touch, etc. It really is melted - shut closed into the plastic block. I however must find a way to "connect" the flow.

Is there a "work around" method I can wire/rig this one fuse so I can complete this alternator replacement/repair & get my 97 Lincoln Town Car back on the rode. I've got other vehicles back in Fla, but I'm 200 miles away & "stuck" here in my Town Car?!?

Thanks in Advance!

 

[Administrator]

Bump!

 

[etinpa]

According to the wiring diagram (attached) the fuse you are having issues with is fuse "J". The attached fuse box diagram will allow you to confirm the location in the fuse box.

If the issue is fuse "J" it could be bypassed with an externally mounted fuse connected between the V/W (Violet with White stripe) and battery positive.

Inline fuse holders with attached wires are available at any auto retailer.

I'd cut the V/W wire near the fuse block leaving enough wire on the fuse block end to reattach to that wire in the future and insulating the hanging wire to prevent later issues.

Let us know how you make out...

 

[MonkeyMuggs]

Thanks oktowncar! I'm going to go have a look and see if I can find the V/W (violet/white?) wire. I guess it must protrude from beneath the fuse block? And where does this V/W go, or run to & attach onto the alternator specifically? I was under the perhaps incorrect assumption that I would run a separate inline fused wire from a 12v hot source & run/attach it to the "red positive post on top the alternator"!? But I think you have opened my eyes, reasoning to it needing to go & connect/attach to the alternator's "regulator"!? (hence why the J fuse is named "Alternator/Regulator"!?

What size or gauge wire should I purchase to use for this in in line fuse? And also how many amps should the fuse be? (10amp like the J fuse is?).

If I need to get underneath or take off the fuse block - how do I do that? I've looked and don't see anything obvious (fastners/clips/etc.) that would allow me to inspect the J Fuse + Wire that connects or "connected" to it. I think I would need to make sure there is still no lingering/partial connection - yes? The idea, for now, I assume is to disconnect or cut any connection from that alternator/regulator J fuse - correct? And then connect one end of the fused bypass to a hot battery source? Can I connect it to the post on the side of the fuse block, which is the same post/place the alternator's main/direct hot wire/lead is connected to & routes/terminates on top of the the red terminal on top the alternator? And if this is correct, or ok, I'm starting to "see" that this V/W wire is/was already routed to the old bad alternator, and will just reattach that end of the V/W wire (which now has an in-line 10amp? fuse) back onto the new alternator?

Sorry, but I have NEVER done anything like this and just want to clarify everything. And be S A F E! I'm sure this is painfully obvious to you guys here, but all the terminology, schematics, wiring, etc is like Egyptian Hieroglyphics to me (well, mostly). I'm starting to get the hang of it, feeling more comfortable/confident that "I can do this" after diligent research, reading here @ Lincoln Forums!

I appreciate any/all help tremendously!

______________________________

 

[etinpa]

I pasted your post here in RED text and will insert my responses in BLACK text:

Thanks oktowncar!

Actually it was etinpa but we don't care who gets the credit if you get your car working!

I'm going to go have a look and see if I can find the V/W (violet/white?) wire. I guess it must protrude from beneath the fuse block?
And where does this V/W go, or run to & attach onto the alternator specifically?

The V/W wire runs from the alternator two pin plug (which has the V/W wire and a LG/R Light Green with Red stripe) and a through an inline connector (C104) and then to the fuse block. You can cut and splice into the alternator side of the cut V/W wire anywhere it is easy to reach (likely closer to the alternator than to the fuse block). You want to splice your inline fuse holder to the alternator side of the cut and insulate (tape) the fuse block side. Do not do anything to the LG/R wire.

I was under the perhaps incorrect assumption that I would run a separate inline fused wire from a 12v hot source & run/attach it to the "red positive post on top the alternator"!?

No, the existing V/W wire doesn't go the red positive post on the alternator. That is a larger gauge BK/O wire which you should leave alone.

But I think you have opened my eyes, reasoning to it needing to go & connect/attach to the alternator's "regulator"!? (hence why the J fuse is named "Alternator/Regulator"!?

Yes, Fuse ""J" is part of the regulator control circuit for the alternator not the actual alternator output.

What size or gauge wire should I purchase to use for this in in line fuse?

Since you will be using a 10 Amp fuse (to match the original fuse size) you only need 16 AWG wire although I would match the V/W wire size to make splicing easier. You can use crimped butt splices. Note that the inline fuse holder will come with some wire attached.

And also how many amps should the fuse be? (10amp like the J fuse is?).

Yes, match the original fuse size.

If I need to get underneath or take off the fuse block - how do I do that? I've looked and don't see anything obvious (fastners/clips/etc.) that would allow me to inspect the J Fuse + Wire that connects or "connected" to it. I think I would need to make sure there is still no lingering/partial connection - yes?

You do not need to get to the fuse block. You should be able to let the melted old Fuse "J" part of the fuse block as is.

The idea, for now, I assume is to disconnect or cut any connection from that alternator/regulator J fuse - correct?

Yes, see above... when you cut the V/W wire and insulate the fuse block side that will essentially disconnect the old fuse "J" circuit.

And then connect one end of the fused bypass to a hot battery source? Can I connect it to the post on the side of the fuse block, which is the same post/place the alternator's main/direct hot wire/lead is connected to & routes/terminates on top of the the red terminal on top the alternator?

Yes, one side of the fuse should go to the alternator side of the cut V/W wire and the other side to battery positive. The terminal you mention on the fuse block will work.

And if this is correct, or ok, I'm starting to "see" that this V/W wire is/was already routed to the old bad alternator, and will just reattach that end of the V/W wire (which now has an in-line 10amp? fuse) back onto the new alternator?

Not 100% sure what you're saying but the order should be alternator terminal (and connector) to V/W wire to new inline fuse to battery (or fuse block) positive.

Sorry, but I have NEVER done anything like this and just want to clarify everything. And be S A F E! I'm sure this is painfully obvious to you guys here, but all the terminology, schematics, wiring, etc is like Egyptian Hieroglyphics to me (well, mostly). I'm starting to get the hang of it, feeling more comfortable/confident that "I can do this" after diligent research, reading here @ Lincoln Forums!

No problem with your inexperience. We were all there once! I'm pretty sure you can do this!

I appreciate any/all help tremendously!

That's what we're here for!!!

Post back whether you're successful or want more info.

 

[Action]

97 Lincoln Town Car.

I've checked for bad wires, shorts, etc & there everything appears OK. I had my alternator checked 2x. Alternator is bad. (Battery is new - 2 months old). I got new alternator & need to install it soon, as this Lincoln is the only car I have with me (out of town).


After extensive research, I think/hope the internal voltage regulator was the culprit. I sure hope so, as I am no mechanic & am "new" to doing/attempting my own repairs. Again, thanks to this forum and YouTube, etc. I feel pretty confident/comfortable swapping the alternator.

But I am quite worried and at a loss as to how/what to do in order to "fix" or "replace" the 10 amp alternator/regulator fuse in engine bay box? It is totally melted into the plastic holder! I've tried hunting down, searching for a 97 Town Car fuse block ......but my searches have produced next to nothing! It appears that the Alternator/Regulator fuse is/was the only fuse that got melted/welded. The alternator will likely get my car back on the rode keep it from shutting down (I was told I was running on battery only).

But this fuse being all melted/welded (no space to jam another fuse & I can not see a way of getting the blades to connect/touch, etc. It really is melted - shut closed into the plastic block. I however must find a way to "connect" the flow.

Is there a "work around" method I can wire/rig this one fuse so I can complete this alternator replacement/repair & get my 97 Lincoln Town Car back on the rode. I've got other vehicles back in Fla, but I'm 200 miles away & "stuck" here in my Town Car?!?

Thanks in Advance!

The alternator on a modular engine family of that vintage is rather easy to replace.

Disconnect the battery + cable
Disconnect the wiring from the alternator
Move the belt tensioner and remove the belt. Note the configuration of the belt.
Remove two bolts that fasten the alternator. And remove the alternator

Reverse procedure to install

Action