2016 Lincoln Mkz catalytic converter

Sir_Trendy

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My Lincoln
2016 Lincoln MKZ
My lincoln bank 2 going bad based of the code i got from auto zone. so i bought the catalytic converter to replace bank 1 and bank 2. my check engine light is on and based off the reading thats the reason why. Ok my question is what should i be paying for the labor work since i already got my own replacement part? Thanks and will my key fob start start back working once the engine light go off? i replaced the battery on the key fob and still not working. thanks . I just bought this car and I love it.
 
How many miles on the car?

Whenever I hear of a cat code, I always lead with "try a tank or two of Tier 1 gas". It's cleared up several of those for me, before I learned to not buy the cheap gas.

As to your question on labor, who's doing the work? You, or someone with a commercial shop?

GL,
- Jeff
 
The cat converter is not controlled electronically. And has no moving parts.

Post the code.

Action
 
How many miles on the car?

Whenever I hear of a cat code, I always lead with "try a tank or two of Tier 1 gas". It's cleared up several of those for me, before I learned to not buy the cheap gas.

As to your question on labor, who's doing the work? You, or someone with a commercial shop?

GL,
- Jeff

The car has 139,900 miles on it . I always use the premium gas for my baby never the cheap one . And a shop I just called them today and they told me 480 for the labor . Thanks for your response brother !


The cat converter is not controlled electronically. And has no moving parts.

Post the code.

Action

The code I got from the read was P0430 and P1450 ! Thanks for your response brother ! I went ahead and order a new catalytic converter for both banks .
______________________________
 
How many miles on the car?

Whenever I hear of a cat code, I always lead with "try a tank or two of Tier 1 gas". It's cleared up several of those for me, before I learned to not buy the cheap gas.

As to your question on labor, who's doing the work? You, or someone with a commercial shop?

GL,
- Jeff

the car 139,400 miles on it. and i always put premium gas in my baby. I called a shop today and they told me 480 for the labor since i already have the parts. thanks for your response brother.


The cat converter is not controlled electronically. And has no moving parts.

Post the code.

Action

The codes I got from the read where P0430 and P1450. thanks for your response brother.
 
P0430 means downstream O2 sensor is giving a signal that is not consistent with the upstream O2 sensor. Testing the O2 sensor would be the next step. And or replacing as O2 sensors loose signal speed after 100,000 miles.

If you are replacing the converter, I would suggest replacing all of the O2 sensors. Not a big expense. And O2 sensors, like spark plugs, do not last forever.
If it were me I would replace all of the O2 sensors before replacing the converter. Then see if the code goes away permanently.

P1450 is not related to the above. This code has to do with the fuel tank vent system integrity. (Or a bad sensor) The sensor is reporting vacuum can not pull out vapor. This is typically due to a leak in the closed fuel system.
Causes besides a bad sensor are:
Leaking hoses
Leaking fuel filler cap - sometimes this can be fixed by cleaning and lubricating the rubber seal in the cap.
Leaking vapor emissions canister
Leaking fuel tank vent valve

Action
 
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P0430 means downstream O2 sensor is giving a signal that is not consistent with the upstream O2 sensor. Testing the O2 sensor would be the next step. And or replacing as O2 sensors loose signal speed after 100,000 miles.

If you are replacing the converter, I would suggest replacing all of the O2 sensors. Not a big expense. And O2 sensors, like spark plugs, do not last forever.
If it were me I would replace all of the O2 sensors before replacing the converter. Then see if the code goes away permanently.

P1450 is not related. This code has to do with the fuel tank vent system integrity. (Or a bad sensor) The sensor is reporting vacuum can not pull out vapor. This is typically due to a leak in the closed fuel system.
Causes besides a bad sensor are:
Leaking loses
Leaking fuel filler cap
Leaking vapor emissions canister
Leaking fuel tank vent valve

Action

So it’s not the catalytic converter ? I feel dumb 😢😂 ! AutoZone should have the O2 sensors ? Thanks man ! This car runs so smooth minus that check engine light ! Thanks for the response brother
 
I am not diagnosing the issue over the internet. Just saying the possibilities are far more than one thing. Using the FORScan software could confirm the signal is an issue. The function of all 4 o2 sensors is to give instant feedback to the PCM, so the PCM knows what fuel trim adjustments to make.

In general cat converters have been ever so reliable for many decades. Failure of a converter is typically physical damage. The converter makes contact with something hard and it is damaged. Either like an egg shaken to an extreme or outside damage that can be seen and heard as an exhaust leak.

O2 sensors on the other hand do not last forever. The rare metal inside wears away and that rare metal is supposed to be generating or modifying an electrical signal at an extremely fast speed. When the signal stops or the signal is slowed down, efficient engine operation is no longer possible.

The other possibilities for this would be wiring. Poor connection at the connector, melted pigtail or some other basic electrical issue.

But the common issue is a worn out O2 sensor. The sensors can be bought on the net for less than $25 or $30. Fast moving parts stores for more. And many times replacement is fairly easy. (I changed 4 in my Navigator last month while doing an oil change) A few O2 sensors are located in a position that access isn't the easiest.
It is a fairly cheap change that is similar to replacing spark plugs. And as I stated above, I change all of my O2 sensors every 100,000 miles. Like getting a tune up in the bad old days.

Oh, and if this is being done, use small dab of high temp anti-seize on the threads. Makes replacing them in the future a breeze.

Action
______________________________
 
the car 139,400 miles on it. and i always put premium gas in my baby. I called a shop today and they told me 480 for the labor since i already have the parts. thanks for your response brother.

The codes I got from the read where P0430 and P1450. thanks for your response brother.

Hi Sir_Trendy. You are getting good advice from everyone.

The only thing I would add: “batchman” advised using Top Tier fuel, and you stated that you always use premium fuel.

Premium fuel is not necessarily “Top Tier” quality rated fuel, since “Premium” simply denotes the octane rating, not the fuel quality. Premium fuel can still be junk, since virtually all gas stations, even cheap, generic brands, sell premium fuels which do not meet “Top Tier” fuel standards.

Therefore, try to ensure you are using only Top Tier rated fuel, since fuel quality is just as important as octane rating (as long as we use the required 87 octane minimum or higher).

Also, there is an app available which will locate Top Tier rated stations by us. “Top Tier Station Finder”.

Hope this helps and good luck.
 
I am not diagnosing the issue over the internet. Just saying the possibilities are far more than one thing. Using the FORScan software could confirm the signal is an issue. The function of all 4 o2 sensors is to give instant feedback to the PCM, so the PCM knows what fuel trim adjustments to make.

In general cat converters have been ever so reliable for many decades. Failure of a converter is typically physical damage. The converter makes contact with something hard and it is damaged. Either like an egg shaken to an extreme or outside damage that can be seen and heard as an exhaust leak.

O2 sensors on the other hand do not last forever. The rare metal inside wears away and that rare metal is supposed to be generating or modifying an electrical signal at an extremely fast speed. When the signal stops or the signal is slowed down, efficient engine operation is no longer possible.

The other possibilities for this would be wiring. Poor connection at the connector, melted pigtail or some other basic electrical issue.

But the common issue is a worn out O2 sensor. The sensors can be bought on the net for less than $25 or $30. Fast moving parts stores for more. And many times replacement is fairly easy. (I changed 4 in my Navigator last month while doing an oil change) A few O2 sensors are located in a position that access isn't the easiest.
It is a fairly cheap change that is similar to replacing spark plugs. And as I stated above, I change all of my O2 sensors every 100,000 miles. Like getting a tune up in the bad old days.

Oh, and if this is being done, use small dab of high temp anti-seize on the threads. Makes replacing them in the future a breeze.

Action

I changed the o2 sensors and that check engine light went off ! your a beast brother! thanks !!



Thanks to everyone that helped me with this issue ! Love this community !
 
Well it was off and then it came back with a few more errors when I ran it ! 😢

Auto Zone suggested Parts is

Oxygen Sensor. Mind you i just changed all four yesterday ! the two top and two bottom.

Now it has a few more error codes thats showing now.

the codes now are and is the cause of the check engine light

P0420
P0430
P219A
P219B
P1450

ABS has but no abs light are on. Im more focues on the top codes but anyway tips on what i need to fix these will be appreciated too

B1111-53
C0031-15
C0034-15
C0051-67


All tips and answers will be appreciated !
 
The top 4 codes (Not going to post about the bottom 4 codes)
P0420
P0430
P219A
P219B
Are all about the same thing as you initially posted about. Just an expansion of that.
Meaning air/fuel ratios are off and cat converter efficiency is off. I suspect the A/F ratio is too rich and the converters cannot handle that much unburned fuel.
But it would be notable to know if the A/F ratio is extremely rich or lean. I suspect rich, because the engine will run well if the mixture is rich. Too lean and mis-fires will occur, especially under light throttle.

So, replacing parts based on a code without further diagnosis does not always work. The codes are meant to help or guide in the diagnosis ss I stated in post 8.

The possibility exists the O2 sensors are not working correctly. Or connectors are not connected fully. Burned or damaged wiring to O2 sensors
Or other possibilities like an exhaust leak, vacuum leak, or leaded fuel was used.

You had the P1450 before. You have not stated you fixed it. This is a fuel tank vacuum system issue. Have you fixed this?
Possible causes:
Faulty Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: A malfunctioning fuel tank pressure sensor can cause issues with the fuel tank vacuum system.
Leaking Vacuum Hoses: Leaks in the vacuum hoses that connect to the fuel tank can prevent the system from building up the necessary vacuum.
Defective Evaporative Emissions Canister: A faulty evaporative emissions canister can lead to problems with the fuel tank vacuum system.
Clogged Fuel Tank Vent: A clogged fuel tank vent can restrict the flow of air in and out of the fuel tank, affecting the vacuum system.

Work from the known to the unknown
And from the less expensive to the more expensive when working the unknown.

The P1450 would be something that is needed to be fixed as well.
Any overdue maintenance should be handled as well. Filters, spark plugs and oil change. If the maintenance has been overdue in the past, throttle body, intake and crankcase venting may need to be cleaned.

Questions:
How does the engine perform?
Do you have a vacuum gauge?
Do you drive in an area that uses road salt or chemical to remove snow and ice?

Action
______________________________
 
Last edited:
The top 4 codes (Not going to post about the bottom 4 codes)
P0420
P0430
P219A
P219B
Are all about the same thing as you initially posted about. Just an expansion of that.
Meaning air/fuel ratios are off and cat converter efficiency is off. I suspect the A/F ratio is too rich and the converters cannot handle that much unburned fuel.
But it would be notable to know if the A/F ratio is extremely rich or lean. I suspect rich, because the engine will run well if the mixture is rich. Too lean and mis-fires will occur, especially under light throttle.

So, replacing parts based on a code without further diagnosis does not always work. The codes are meant to help or guide in the diagnosis ss I stated in post 8.

The possibility exists the O2 sensors are not working correctly. Or connectors are not connected fully. Burned or damaged wiring to O2 sensors
Or other possibilities like an exhaust leak, vacuum leak, or leaded fuel was used.

You had the P1450 before. You have not stated you fixed it. This is a fuel tank vacuum system issue. Have you fixed this?
Possible causes:
Faulty Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor: A malfunctioning fuel tank pressure sensor can cause issues with the fuel tank vacuum system.
Leaking Vacuum Hoses: Leaks in the vacuum hoses that connect to the fuel tank can prevent the system from building up the necessary vacuum.
Defective Evaporative Emissions Canister: A faulty evaporative emissions canister can lead to problems with the fuel tank vacuum system.
Clogged Fuel Tank Vent: A clogged fuel tank vent can restrict the flow of air in and out of the fuel tank, affecting the vacuum system.

Work from the known to the unknown
And from the less expensive to the more expensive when working the unknown.

The P1450 would be something that is needed to be fixed as well.
Any overdue maintenance should be handled as well. Filters, spark plugs and oil change. If the maintenance has been overdue in the past, throttle body, intake and crankcase venting may need to be cleaned.

Questions:
How does the engine perform?
Do you have a vacuum gauge?
Do you drive in an area that uses road salt or chemical to remove snow and ice?

Action
The car runs real good and smooth ! I just changed all the 02 sensors when I last posted here . I’ll check to see that all of em are connected all the way and see if the wiring is damaged .im going to look into the p1450 code now and see if i can trace that problem.

Another thing i noticed the car had no coolant idk how long it was like that since i bought it . But when the mechanic noticed he added coolant and it was full i checked yesterday and it’s not half full . Does that mean anything bad ? I don’t see no leaks any where when i park . Was the car just thirsty ? It’s sad the last owner didn’t tell me it needed it the car never ran hot on me or over heated at all
 
This is my car and she’s a beauty ! I want her healthy ! Thanks for the responses brother ! I appreciate it . See the cluster when we changed the o2 sensor the CEL went off and then came back on.
 

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Another thing i noticed the car had no coolant idk how long it was like that since i bought it . But when the mechanic noticed he added coolant and it was full i checked yesterday and it’s not half full . Does that mean anything bad ? I don’t see no leaks any where when i park . Was the car just thirsty ? It’s sad the last owner didn’t tell me it needed it the car never ran hot on me or over heated at all
That is a bad thing. The coolant level should never change when the coolant is cold and correctly filled.

No visible external leaks, typically means an internal leak. A cooling system pressure check and a cap pressure check would be next step in diagnosis for that.
In the interim, keep the level topped off.

Back to the codes. Since the "car runs real good and smooth", likely the Air/Fuel ratio is too rich. Because too lean would cause engine running issues.

Questions:
Do you have a vacuum gauge?
Do you drive in an area that uses road salt or chemical to remove snow and ice?

Action
 
That is a bad thing. The coolant level should never change when the coolant is cold and correctly filled.

No visible external leaks, typically means an internal leak. A cooling system pressure check and a cap pressure check would be next step in diagnosis for that.
In the interim, keep the level topped off.

Back to the codes. Since the "car runs real good and smooth", likely the Air/Fuel ratio is too rich. Because too lean would cause engine running issues.

Questions:
Do you have a vacuum gauge?
Do you drive in an area that uses road salt or chemical to remove snow and ice?

Action

Or it could it possibly been the car was running without it for awhile and just took a big gulp. I checked it today and it hasn't moved. I guess its settled now. But I'm going to keep checking it and then going to do the test if I see it keeps dropping too fast. But the car doesn't run hot or over heat at all.

BUT the most important thing that's stressing me is this dam catalytic converter thing ! I want this damn CEL off !!

I don't have a vacuum gauge, Does autozone sell them ? if so link me ?
and no i dont drive the car in salt or any chem roads.

and since ive own the car ive never used leaded gas. not sure about the last owner. Mind you she didnt tell me it didnt have any coolant.

Thanks for your help brother fr. Tomorrow I got a mechanic coming to diagnosis it.
______________________________
 
The only cooling system "gulp" would be if air got in the system such as a service. (Drain and refill) Otherwise the system is closed and no change in coolant system level would occur.

Vacuum gauge. My go to vendor is Amazon. Autozone and other fast-moving parts stores will have one as well.

With a vacuum gauge you can diagnose the health of the
Intake system
Engine efficiency
Exhaust system for restrictions

How long have you owned this ride?
And I as assuming the CE lights just came on?

Pick up a dongle and connect a lap top to FORScan. https://www.forscan.org/
Read module systems and how they are working.
  • Detect vehicle on-board network configuration
  • Read and reset Diagnostic Trouble Codes from all modules (see list of supported modules)
  • Reading of modules' sensors' data
  • Run test diagnostic procedures
  • Run service procedures
Action
 
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