Unlocking Passenger Doors

[mmh]

I have a 2025 Nautilus. Usually I'm the only person in the car, so I'm not sure now if these issues are new or if I'm just now noticing them. I spoke to the local sales department as the Lincoln Help Center, but neither new what the correct functionality even should be for any of these issues. Any information is appreciated is you have experience with 2025 model.

1. When the door are locked and I approach the front passenger door first, the only way to unlock that door is to dig the key out of my purse and click to unlock button on the fob. The limited keypad does not light up, and the push button under the door handle does not unlock the door. This applies to all passenger doors, but I really only expected to be able to unlock the front passenger door. In fact, I haven't seen a car in 15 years where this didn't work. Am I missing something or is it true that you must have the fob in hand and use the fob button to uplock the passenger door first? (If that is true, I guess Lincoln thinks chivalry is dead and babies in carriers are light enough to just carry around the car and back while trying to uplock the doors!) I really do hope I'm missing something here, because the absolute obscurity of this is driving me crazy. As a women whose fob is always buried in some oversized bag, digging it out is ridiculous.

2. The door keypad doesn't like up with returning to the locked car after a period of time. When I first stop the car and exist after driving it, then close the door, the keypad lights and I can lock the door from the keypad before walking away. I can also lock the door from the passenger door keypad immediately after driving. However, when I return to the locked car after being away, the driver's door keypad will not light up on approach or if I touch the keypad. I do have an emergency code programmed, but it is useless since I can't get the keypad to light. I also thought I should be able to unlock with the lock/unlock button on the keypad if I have the fob within 3 feet, although I typically just squeeze the door handle to unlock the driver's door if the fob is in my purse, but it work, right? Therefore, there is no way to get into the car with the emergence code at all. Similarly, the passenger door keypad does not light up to get it unlocked, which again, I expected to be able to do if I have the fob in my purse or pocket.

3. I have the Lincoln app installed only my phone. I get popup's several times a day saying the remote startup feature is being disabled to preserve battery life. Does that feature really not work if the car has been parked for a few hours? If so, once again, I'm missing the point. Why would I need to remote start a car I just stopped driving. I need to remote start in the morning when it's cold outside before work, when the car has been sitting all night, but I never can because it is disabling itself in the middle of the night.

Why is it so hard just to get inside my own car!!!

 

[SeanD]

1. I can unlock the door with either my phone or fob in my pocket and press the button behind the handle, so something is wrong.

3. Shouldn't happen if the car is just sitting for like 3 hours. I've had mine sit for over 24 hours and that doesn't happen.

Car purchased new or used?

 

[CliffDiver]

I have a 2025 Nautilus. Usually I'm the only person in the car, so I'm not sure now if these issues are new or if I'm just now noticing them. I spoke to the local sales department as the Lincoln Help Center, but neither new what the correct functionality even should be for any of these issues. Any information is appreciated is you have experience with 2025 model.

1. When the door are locked and I approach the front passenger door first, the only way to unlock that door is to dig the key out of my purse and click to unlock button on the fob. The limited keypad does not light up, and the push button under the door handle does not unlock the door. This applies to all passenger doors, but I really only expected to be able to unlock the front passenger door. In fact, I haven't seen a car in 15 years where this didn't work. Am I missing something or is it true that you must have the fob in hand and use the fob button to uplock the passenger door first? (If that is true, I guess Lincoln thinks chivalry is dead and babies in carriers are light enough to just carry around the car and back while trying to uplock the doors!) I really do hope I'm missing something here, because the absolute obscurity of this is driving me crazy. As a women whose fob is always buried in some oversized bag, digging it out is ridiculous.

2. The door keypad doesn't like up with returning to the locked car after a period of time. When I first stop the car and exist after driving it, then close the door, the keypad lights and I can lock the door from the keypad before walking away. I can also lock the door from the passenger door keypad immediately after driving. However, when I return to the locked car after being away, the driver's door keypad will not light up on approach or if I touch the keypad. I do have an emergency code programmed, but it is useless since I can't get the keypad to light. I also thought I should be able to unlock with the lock/unlock button on the keypad if I have the fob within 3 feet, although I typically just squeeze the door handle to unlock the driver's door if the fob is in my purse, but it work, right? Therefore, there is no way to get into the car with the emergence code at all. Similarly, the passenger door keypad does not light up to get it unlocked, which again, I expected to be able to do if I have the fob in my purse or pocket.

3. I have the Lincoln app installed only my phone. I get popup's several times a day saying the remote startup feature is being disabled to preserve battery life. Does that feature really not work if the car has been parked for a few hours? If so, once again, I'm missing the point. Why would I need to remote start a car I just stopped driving. I need to remote start in the morning when it's cold outside before work, when the car has been sitting all night, but I never can because it is disabling itself in the middle of the night.

Why is it so hard just to get inside my own car!!!

I would suspect a battery issue is causing this. Does the car external lights reliably make their little show as you approach with the key fob? Does the car display the door mat of little light on the ground as you approach? Replace the car’s battery.

 

[mmh]

1. I can unlock the door with either my phone or fob in my pocket and press the button behind the handle, so something is wrong.

3. Shouldn't happen if the car is just sitting for like 3 hours. I've had mine sit for over 24 hours and that doesn't happen.

Car purchased new or used?

I purchased the car new in April. I feel like something changed at some point and I didn't notice when, because I'm usually driving alone. But in the past few weeks I'd been with my spouse and we suddenly noticed all of the problems because I had the key on the passenger side and he was on the drivers side without a key and neither of us can unlock the doors in that configuration.

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[mmh]

I would suspect a battery issue is causing this. Does the car external lights reliably make their little show as you approach with the key fob? Does the car display the door mat of little light on the ground as you approach? Replace the car’s battery.

I do feel like the little ground lights are hit or miss. So maybe it is battery. Do you think keep the key inside the house, just inside the door to the garage is still too close to the car? It's behind a door and 11 feet away.

 

[lincolnandy]

Bring it in for warranty service. If the problem is easily duplicatable, they should be able to fix it.

 

[angore]

Battery....

 

[CliffDiver]

I do feel like the little ground lights are hit or miss. So maybe it is battery. Do you think keep the key inside the house, just inside the door to the garage is still too close to the car? It's behind a door and 11 feet away.

I do think that is too close to the car to store your key fob. That's about the same distance I keep mine and until I got the Faraday box, I had issues like you are describing. I also had a wall and door in between. The ground lights not coming on is a real sign of this being the issue. I suggest you get a Faraday box and store the fobs in it when not using them. And if you have Phone As A Key set up, every time you walk by that door to the where the car is parked, you could be triggering your car to react. I just decided to disable Phone As A Key. It wasn't worth the hassle.

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[angore]

I do think that is too close to the car to store your key fob. That's about the same distance I keep mine and until I got the Faraday box, I had issues like you are describing. I also had a wall and door in between. The ground lights not coming on is a real sign of this being the issue. I suggest you get a Faraday box and store the fobs in it when not using them. And if you have Phone As A Key set up, every time you walk by that door to the where the car is parked, you could be triggering your car to react. I just decided to disable Phone As A Key. It wasn't worth the hassle.

If you disable "near by devices" permission for Lincoln App it will prevent the app trying to connect to Nautilus by Bluetooth. To me, the phone is too much trouble especially since I always have the fob with me. It does not affect remote start or locking/unlocking the vehicle through phone which is done via 5G.

 

[olderbudweiser]

I have had electronic functionally issues, latest was weather would not update. Finally battery went dead, only reading 5 Volts. New battery fixed all the little electronic gremlins. This is 3rd battery.

 

[suprdav2]

I agree with the general consensus of it being the battery. With cars having more and more complex computerized systems...............a tiny drop in voltage will cause all kinds of weird issues initially.

 

[GeoGVAZ]

I have had electronic functionally issues, latest was weather would not update. Finally battery went dead, only reading 5 Volts. New battery fixed all the little electronic gremlins. This is 3rd battery.

I have read a couple of your posts regarding battery replacement.
I was hoping I could find a post from you saying the battery replacement fixed your electronic gremlins (I've had them since purchasing car 18 months ago). But now I see you are on your third battery. So that's disappointing.
An over the air update I received in November seems to have gotten rid of the weird and various electronic glitches, but I now get "remote features disabled to conserve battery" pretty much all the time.
I was going to go ahead and put a new battery in and hope for the best.
I understand from my dealer there are two replacement battery available. One (the AGM?) being stronger than the original.
Which one id you go with? And, what's the current stae of you electronic issues.

______________________________

 

[bbf2530]

I have read a couple of your posts regarding battery replacement.
I was hoping I could find a post from you saying the battery replacement fixed your electronic gremlins (I've had them since purchasing car 18 months ago). But now I see you are on your third battery. So that's disappointing.
An over the air update I received in November seems to have gotten rid of the weird and various electronic glitches, but I now get "remote features disabled to conserve battery" pretty much all the time.
I was going to go ahead and put a new battery in and hope for the best.
I understand from my dealer there are two replacement battery available. One (the AGM?) being stronger than the original.
Which one id you go with? And, what's the current stae of you electronic issues.

Hi GeoGVAZ. According to the circumstances, these warnings can be normal, or can mean there is an issue. Therefore, can you offer more specifics as to when, how and how often you get those "remote features disabled to conserve battery". For example:
- Are they displaying while you sit in the car with accessories running?
- Are they displaying at other, random times?
- Only on the dashboard?
- On the Lincoln App?
- Both he dashboard and Lincoln app?
- How often and how far do you drive per day?
- etc. etc.

The more information you provide, the better the chances we can offer accurate advice.

In addition, as long as you are within the 4 year/50.000 mile New Vehicle Warranty, the battery will be tested and replaced under warranty, with no cost to you. So if you believe there is an issue, schedule a service appointment to have your vehicle/battery tested.

Keep us updated and good luck

 

[MattMacMan]

I have read a couple of your posts regarding battery replacement.
I was hoping I could find a post from you saying the battery replacement fixed your electronic gremlins (I've had them since purchasing car 18 months ago). But now I see you are on your third battery. So that's disappointing.
An over the air update I received in November seems to have gotten rid of the weird and various electronic glitches, but I now get "remote features disabled to conserve battery" pretty much all the time.
I was going to go ahead and put a new battery in and hope for the best.
I understand from my dealer there are two replacement battery available. One (the AGM?) being stronger than the original.
Which one id you go with? And, what's the current stae of you electronic issues.

Ford/Lincoln Service Advisor here. The original battery in these vehicles is a Motorcraft H7 AGM battery.

Also, Ive mentioned this in a few other threads, but in case you havent stumbled across them yet, these vehicles have tons of battery issues right off the lot due to the very long transit time from factory to your dealership lot. We really wish they would replace the batteries on all of them when they arrive, batteries just arent made for the type of sitting and draining they go through.

 

[markfm]

Ford/Lincoln Service Advisor here. The original battery in these vehicles is a Motorcraft H7 AGM battery.

...

The hybrid (Geogvaz's vehicle) originally used the little BAGM-H4 - they changed to an H7? Nice, I didn't know they were able to handle the extra length.

Thankfully Lincoln came out with a Nautilus transport mode somewhere in mid June (Special Service Message 53992 "...climate control system, interior lamps, ambient lighting, autolamp exit delay and easy entry and exit features turned off..."), so late '25 and following builds should at least not have as much transport-period drain.

We're due to go in to our local dealer on the 17th. I went through Concierge, forwarded by them to Client Relationship to set up the case number and service appointment. We purchased a 25 R2 hybrid in late June, various power-related issues showing starting in early July (gradually getting worse), pretty confident that we have a significantly sulfated, though not yet fully dead, battery, based on seeing consistent 20% drops in estimated SOC within 1hr of turning the vehicle off.

The battery monitor we have uses voltage as a proxy for SOC, it's probably a surface charge scenario (else we have some really bad unintended parasitic drains, maybe some of the parasitic fix updates hadn't applied correctly). When I've checked BM300 Pro with Concierge a couple times, for low values (in the 40s % zone), Concierge has reported similar info (today I checked again w/Concierge - I showed 44% when a 5am OTA failed).

 

[angore]

I went to Ford Parts to get an image of the battery to see any new information. It now shows two batteries for my hybrid's VIN. The original H4 and now also the H7. Does the H7 fit under rear tire? I looked at fitment and no specific mention of hybrid in "Fits these vehicles" but see it in details. Ford parts needs clarification.

Given the vehicle always has the information, it should display battery SOC.

______________________________

 

[olderbudweiser]

I have read a couple of your posts regarding battery replacement.
I was hoping I could find a post from you saying the battery replacement fixed your electronic gremlins (I've had them since purchasing car 18 months ago). But now I see you are on your third battery. So that's disappointing.
An over the air update I received in November seems to have gotten rid of the weird and various electronic glitches, but I now get "remote features disabled to conserve battery" pretty much all the time.
I was going to go ahead and put a new battery in and hope for the best.
I understand from my dealer there are two replacement battery available. One (the AGM?) being stronger than the original.
Which one id you go with? And, what's the current stae of you electronic issues.

Sorry I didn't include that. The new battery took care of what was alining my electronics.

 

[GeoGVAZ]

Thx for all the replies.
I will be asking the dealership which battery my car has. H4 or H7.
As far as all the particulars of how I drive and where and when I get errors, I'll just say this. I have taken the car in 4 times (2 different dealers, twice each) for these problems; besides wherever the glitch lands on a particular start (ie no ABS, no collision avoidance, no tire pressure, seat belt indicator remains on for 5 minutes, or an hour, or til restart and sometimes after restart, radio doesn't work) and finding the car shut off (ie no door unlock, no door pillar keypad, notice of features shut off to conserve battery) which can occur anytime from 4 minutes to 3 weeks after shut off.
Both dealers say one of three things after they've had the car for several days. 1. Car is fixed (it isn't) 2. Couldn't replicate issues or 3 (the best!). Yeah, you got trouble. No fix known.
LOL (not really) one time the loaner's tire pressure display didn't work as I drove it away from dealer drop off. Dealer "huh? How about that?"
Dealer has never suggested my driving habits or usage is to blame (but they don't know how to fix the car either so who's to say?).
Dealer wants $150 and to keep the car for at least overnight for a battery test. If battery tests okay, I'm out the $150. If battery fails test, then no charge and battery replaced under warranty.
Trying to decide if I trust them enough they'll provide an accurate test, or since they can't fix it and even if they say the battery tests okay, I gotta try something and would replace it anyway. So I might as well save the hassle of two dealer visits and and just pay for replacement.
Maybe, if they tell me I have an H4, I'll gamble the $150. If I already have an H7, then I'll probably just replace it and figure I applied the $150 to that cost. Thx for the advice and comments.
2024 Nautilus Black Label AWD Hybrid

 

[angore]

Your 2024 car including the battery is still under warranty and you should not be paying anything.

 

[bbf2530]

Thx for all the replies.
I will be asking the dealership which battery my car has. H4 or H7.
As far as all the particulars of how I drive and where and when I get errors, I'll just say this. I have taken the car in 4 times (2 different dealers, twice each) for these problems; besides wherever the glitch lands on a particular start (ie no ABS, no collision avoidance, no tire pressure, seat belt indicator remains on for 5 minutes, or an hour, or til restart and sometimes after restart, radio doesn't work) and finding the car shut off (ie no door unlock, no door pillar keypad, notice of features shut off to conserve battery) which can occur anytime from 4 minutes to 3 weeks after shut off.
Both dealers say one of three things after they've had the car for several days. 1. Car is fixed (it isn't) 2. Couldn't replicate issues or 3 (the best!). Yeah, you got trouble. No fix known.
LOL (not really) one time the loaner's tire pressure display didn't work as I drove it away from dealer drop off. Dealer "huh? How about that?"
Dealer has never suggested my driving habits or usage is to blame (but they don't know how to fix the car either so who's to say?).
Dealer wants $150 and to keep the car for at least overnight for a battery test. If battery tests okay, I'm out the $150. If battery fails test, then no charge and battery replaced under warranty.
Trying to decide if I trust them enough they'll provide an accurate test, or since they can't fix it and even if they say the battery tests okay, I gotta try something and would replace it anyway. So I might as well save the hassle of two dealer visits and and just pay for replacement.
Maybe, if they tell me I have an H4, I'll gamble the $150. If I already have an H7, then I'll probably just replace it and figure I applied the $150 to that cost. Thx for the advice and comments.
2024 Nautilus Black Label AWD Hybrid

Hi GeoGVAZ. What angore stated above. Your 2024 is still within the 4 year/50,000 mile Nrw Vehicle Warranty. There should be absolutely no charge for testing the battery, no matter how they test it. That includes keeping your vehicle overnight.

The fact that the Service Department would state otherwise is disingenuous at best (and I’m being polite). I would recommend you call Lincoln Concierge and ask them for assistance and direction in this matter. The individual who told you this needs a bit of warranty service re-education.

I’m sure others will also jump in to help, so keep us updated and good luck.