1988 Town Car survivor from Florida

StratosFear86

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My Lincoln
1988 Town Car
Hi everyone! I`m making this thread to keep track of my latest project. I made a low ball bid on an internet `88 Town Car and ended up winning the auction. I had it shipped up from just south of Orlando and it arrived today. It was taken good care of the majority of its life but I think its been sitting for awhile waiting for a new owner and is a tad unpolished. Artic White with a slight tan interior, I`ll post some pics once I get it cleaned and buffed.

Ive only had a little while to check it out and I know I`m going to need some basic parts as well as a passenger side tail light and the rear reverse bar to fix some minor cracks. More importantly though I need the right service manual for an `88 which brings me to my first question. What particular manual can I get to cover the 5.0 and AOD transmission of this era?

Ive found a 1988 Town Car factory service manual vol A that covers everything but the engine and transmission. 1988 Lincoln Town Car Brakes Steering Suspension Axle Shop Service Repair Manual | eBay
As well as a troubleshooting supplement 1988 Lincoln Town Car Factory Electrical Troubleshooting Service Manual USED #3 | eBay
 
The basic Ford car shop manual set of the era came in a set of 5.
The 5th one is for Pre-delivery. Car is already delivered. You can get that one for nostalgic reasons or leave it off.

Get volumes 1 thru 4 or A thru D.
There are other publications that specialize in certain areas. One thick binder takes a deep dive into electronic engine controls and emissions.

I prefer hard copy. Although there are enterprising sorts taht have scanned the shop manuals into a CD if you prefer.

Ebay is a good place to find stuff like that.

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I appreciate the replies,

I`ll snag that full set from ebay, I saw the other cars listed and just wanted to be sure. I prefer the hard copies of FSMs for my cars as well. Theres a few minor things that dont work like the radio and antenna, as well as the AC but the belt was removed.

A few pics from the previous owner,
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Welcome to the forum!
 
Thank you, thank you vury much.

I had a chance to take her on a long drive and test out some things, crawl around under it from front to back, make a big list of things to repair, replace or add etc. As the PO mentioned the transmission slips a bit around 4th and she didnt seem to want to go into overdrive. I couldnt get it above 30 up hills nor over 55 in a long straight stretch. It even seemed to buck some while coasting downhill, I feel its more drivetrain related than ignition but I could be wrong. I`m not going to get into to it to much until the manuals arrive and everything can be serviced according to those.

More pics at the house with the rest of the collection.
 
The first gen Town Car came with a 302 (or 5.0 l) and an AOD, for a 4000+ pound car.
The AOD is based on a lighter duty C-4 transmission.

The combination is not much in the powerhouse. However should post speeds a little greater than you are experiencing.

Questions:
How many miles on vehicle?
Any warning lamps lit up?
Have you checked the transmission fluid when hot and on a level surface?
What does the fluid smell like?
Have you replaced the air & fuel filter?

Servicing the transmission would be prudent. It had issues when it was new on larger cars that weighed a lot.
If it were me, in addition to the transmission service, I would likely change out -
Oil and filter
Coolant - any hoses that are marginal
Spark plugs
Crankcase filter if equipped
Pull wheels and inspect brakes.

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I would hope the mileage is accurate at 98k, the condition seems about right for it. No warning lights either. The trans fluid is definitely old and worn out, well past its service life. But its not burnt or brown, probably the original fluid. I added about a 1/3 a bottle of lucas stop slip in the transmission and a bottle of seafoam in the oil and went for another drive to get some parts. Theres a noticeable improvement in both shifting and torque, it still hunts for 4th some but found it a few times. I think I`ll change the trans filter and then flush all the old fluid out with new fluid via the trans cooler lines and some vacuum hose. If that doesnt help then I`ll start looking at a replacement.

I spent the money on a manual set that included the Pre-delivery F volume as well as an original owners manual specific to the 1988 Town Car, and some Lincoln swag... looks like I`m going all in.
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Manuals and parts are trickling in, just in time for icy wet weather. Title and service receipts in as well for several things that explains some of the newer looking parts. Ebay has been outstanding in finding the few little parts I need that were missing, new tail light lenses, a reverse bar and drs door courtesy light lens. But I am missing the chrome ring that went on the door panel switch that went to the seat adjustment knob, I think I`ll live.
Discovered the trans fluid was over a quart low because theres a leak, I`ll have to clean the area good to determine where but it looks like the pan gasket.
HHnI4x6.jpg

Really starting to like this car, my grand parents had one nearly identical but it was the next shade darker than this one and had the fake spoke hub caps. I never got to drive it before it was traded in. I remember theirs had two little pods at the far front end corners with indicator lights in them that you could see from the drivers seat though. Anyone familiar with an option like that and what it might be called?
 
Looking into the AC issues the no belt part made it obvious however the AC comp. clutch seems to be on the verge of falling apart as well. Since the belt isnt allowing the air pump to work that can affect engine performance right?
 
The function of a secondary air pump is to inject compressed air into the exhaust manifold.
So that event is after the engine has used the air/fuel mixture.
No an inoperative secondary air pump will not impact the engine performance.
It will put added load on the cat converters.
Not exactly how the O2 sensors will report the mixture

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Ok that clicks, the O2 sensors do not read from the exhaust what the pump is or isnt putting out.

I think my converters are clogged with unconverted cats then, I know the engine is 30+ years old with whopping 150hp but it still should be making more power than what it seems to at times. I`m also not 100% convinced the transmission is to blame for it either if its not getting the vacuum it needs when it needs it.

I appreciate your answers!
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If your cats are restricted your vehicle may not move very fast and the check engine light will be on.
Can be confirmed very easily!
And is a rare occurance in the last couple of decades.

The O2 sensors will have different reporting with the air pump working.
The upstream sensors may report rich.
However, if the cat burns all the excess the downstream will report all OK and the air/fuel trim mixture remains unchanged.
Other wise you may get better fuel economy with the pump because further burning takes place in the exhaust. Then the O2 sensors report all is good.

With 100,000 miles your O2 sensors may not be that accurate anyway.

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Yup, definitely a transmission issue. No amount of mechanic in a bottle will fix a burned out component in the overdrive. I serviced the filter and drained some fluid out, found this in the pan.
Before it was cleaned.
yiMaGeU.jpg

Also changed the oil but discovered a second plug in the oil pan I didnt get to. New oil is already dirty so I`ll change it again soon after the MMO has a chance to work some. I think they trained bears to install oil filters down there, this thing was WAY to tight. Motorcraft filters only going forward.
W52miUs.jpg
 
Wow, so I lost all my pics. Imgur deleted my account for some reason.

Still haven't gotten the trans replaced or rebuilt but it drives just fine for the most part to and from work. I fixed one of the window regulators but still have two other windows that dont go up and down. One I think needs a new gear and the other is getting off track from the seals. Both front door window side seal pieces are separating along the divider to the smaller secondary front door window. I`ll post a how too thread once I figure out what sizes are needed.

All washed up...

 
I appreciate the replies,

I`ll snag that full set from ebay, I saw the other cars listed and just wanted to be sure. I prefer the hard copies of FSMs for my cars as well. Theres a few minor things that dont work like the radio and antenna, as well as the AC but the belt was removed.

A few pics from the previous owner,
Nice looking car. I'm partial to white, easier to keep clean & to touch up the paint. I daily drive an '89 year round in N. New England. I lucked out in that when I bought the car 4 yrs. ago from a don't wanter all the things that routinely go wrong with all of these first generations were fixed (other than the armrest cracks) including a rebuilt trans. AC was converted & blows cold. I got receipts for everything too. It was just before the big price increase in used cars, I paid $2800. 65K on it confirmed by Carfax. What did you pay for yours & how much was shipping for how many miles? I'm looking at '95's now & will likely have to ship. I've read horror stories about car shippers as well as those services which will check a car that's too far from the buyer. I got a one volume factory service manual for my '89 on Ebay which covers everything for $40.
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What did you pay for yours & how much was shipping for how many miles? I'm looking at '95's now & will likely have to ship. I've read horror stories about car shippers as well as those services which will check a car that's too far from the buyer. I got a one volume factory service manual for my '89 on Ebay which covers everything for $40.

Be careful if shipping. A lot of brokers out there who don't actually own any trucks. They tell you that they'll take care of it and then put the loads out there for truckers to bid on. The lower the bid from the trucker, the more money for the broker.
Of course truckers like to get several vehicles that are going to the same general region instead of skipping all over the place for deliveries. It only makes financial sense. Depending on where you are your vehicle could sit for several weeks or longer waiting for a trucker to take it. I once waited 5-6 weeks for a pickup truck to be delivered from Washington state to northern NY state. The broker blew smoke at me whenever I called for an ETA.
 
Nice looking car. I'm partial to white, easier to keep clean & to touch up the paint. I daily drive an '89 year round in N. New England. I lucked out in that when I bought the car 4 yrs. ago from a don't wanter all the things that routinely go wrong with all of these first generations were fixed (other than the armrest cracks) including a rebuilt trans. AC was converted & blows cold. I got receipts for everything too. It was just before the big price increase in used cars, I paid $2800. 65K on it confirmed by Carfax. What did you pay for yours & how much was shipping for how many miles? I'm looking at '95's now & will likely have to ship. I've read horror stories about car shippers as well as those services which will check a car that's too far from the buyer. I got a one volume factory service manual for my '89 on Ebay which covers everything for $40.
Total cost of car delivered to my work was about $3200, shipping being about $1000 from Orlando to Nashville. However the sellers pics and description made it seem as if it were a flood car with a blown transmission. I dont think it was, just a little corner of rust behind one back wheel. A similar car with 50k in Las Vegas that was more accurately described went for twice that, and mine was in better condition at the time. I also got a free vintage car phone included! Its got a few issues but its so easy to fix so long as parts are available. I would have preferred black but just about any color looks good on the 1st gen TCs. Its all about how bad someone wants one. I highly recommend them now, it`ll take a ridiculous offer to part with mine.

Shipping it is a test of patience, just had a non running Mclaren shipped from NJ for $1200 and for both it and my running Town Car just do not believe the estimated pickup/delivery time and initial quote. Both times I had to pay the lot for a few days after the auctions waiting on the driver to show up(About $50). Both times the excuse was the driver`s trucks are having trouble and they`re finding another driver. And both times after offering another $200 in cash on delivery the cars were picked up within a few hours. The drivers typically will not call ahead of time to give you any sort of ETA on delivery and do not speak very good english. One snuck up on me in my garage and nearly caught a 4 way to the face. If shipping be patient and expect to add a incentive for the driver, they only get about 30-50% of what the shipping quote is.

For the Mclaren I did pay $149 to have a 3rd party inspect the car and take lots of pics, they knew exactly where and what to look for. I used Copart for it and then had to have a broker involved so Ill will never do it again for the hidden fees, I much prefer Hemmings.com but you need to set up your own shipping and inspections. Also check the laws from the state you live in vs the state where the car is, some times by law you need a broker involved. I did between TN and NJ but not for TN and FL.
 
Man I love these cars even more now, I thought I was in need of a new transmission or at least a rebuild. I was reading into the TV cable and how to go about adjusting it and found the bushing had come off under the throttle body. If thats all that has been causing the shifting issues the whole time I`m going to start collecting some more Panthers and a Fox or two.

Score! an of the shelf Dorman kit has two of the bushings that work perfectly. I messed up by popping one on the cable adjuster first and had to cut it off. Install the bushing into the TB arm first then pop the cable on. Easy 1 beer job. P/N for kit is 14104 if youre in a pinch or dont want to wait for RA.
 
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Change the transmission filter and fluid every 3 years and the transmission will out last the paint.

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