The Dreaded Drivers Door Module Part Numbers

[LesRoss]

After a closer look at the provided diagram, I see a lot of "LG/VT", So that is probably not a color notation.

BTW, just ordered a Haynes manual from Amazon. Can't hurt.

 

[Vinci]

BTW, just ordered a Haynes manual from Amazon. Can't hurt.

Les,
IMO anything other than the factory manual is a waste. Faxon generally has them.

LG/VT is indeed a wire color, light green with a violet stripe as you correctly guessed. And yes, there is a LOT of LG/VT in that diagram - see my earlier comment about "one wire to rule them all".

I don't know whether that module, which is hard to miss in the trunk, is looking for a voltage interruption or what, but step one is to know what you are getting on the signal back there. An old analog voltmeter with an actual needle might be more useful for this task than the modern digital ones, since there is obviously some transient occurring. Amazon has one for $9.99, no idea whether its any good. A fancy digital one that graphs or records data would work too. You need to be looking at the meter with the leads plugged in when someone starts the car, in case that's not obvious.

WRT to the module, there is a panel covering it that spans the entire upper portion of the trunk under the rear package shelf. It is held on by three plastic fasteners that sort of unscrew/sort of just pull off. You will find the trunk module (going by memory, don't have the manual with me now) with the release mechanism on the driver's side hinge. Find the connector that has a LG/VT wire, and you've found the trunk module.

 

[Action]

IMO anything other than the factory manual is a waste. Faxon generally has them.

1000%. If you are using a nonfactory source you might you that hard copy to start a fire.

Action

 

[wolf_walker]

These cars have network buss wiring too remember, not sure if any of this is involved off hand but they don't work like regular on/off 12v stuff.

And yes, invest in factory manuals. I usually find em on ebay, there are two per year model. Well, three but two you really need.

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[Vinci]

These cars have network buss wiring too remember, not sure if any of this is involved off hand but they don't work like regular on/off 12v stuff.

And yes, invest in factory manuals. I usually find em on ebay, there are two per year model. Well, three but two you really need.

This is a good point about the bus, but it can't do anything without turning power on and off somewhere. Since this is happening on startup, which is a high power drain, I think there's something else happening here that is purely electrical. The bus doesn't deal directly with anything high power, it tells relays and the like to do that for it, and the commands/data on the bus are more or less hard coded into the respective modules.

As best I recall (I was once a Ford engineer, loooong time ago, not on the electrical side), the bus on these cars is not very sophisticated and relatively unlikely to cause problems. What can cause problems is a wire that's supposed to be at 12V suddenly dropping to 1V because there's a drain elsewhere or a high resistance in that wire (which was my problem in this thread). Probing the leads to the trunk module would confirm or eliminate that cause.

 

[LesRoss]

Thanks to all for the info. I do still have my old analog meter and will be sure to use it.
I'll work this tomorrow. Stay tuned for pix and results.

I take your point about Faxon vs Haynes, but at 10 times the cost maybe I'll start with Haynes and buy Faxon if all else fails.

 

[ncbill]

So I had the DDM module on my 2007 Lincoln Town Car Designer replaced recently by my independent mechanic...he was told it is out-of-stock until the end of the year so he had to buy a used DDM off eBay.

Then everything worked again except the power seats...I assume because the replacement DDM was from a lower trim/optioned Lincoln Town Car?

But after a month or so everything's dead again.

In others' experience could that be a wire harness/bad ground problem (i.e., shorting the DDM?)

Or do I just need to take it to the dealer & have them replace (if available) with a new DDM & properly program it for my Lincoln Town Car's trim level & options?

Also have the peeling paint ("White Chocolate") issue on roof (big chunks gone) & now starting on the hood...wondering if I should wait until the trunk starts peeling or just repaint now?
Anyone get help from Ford on a repaint for that? (I've read the TSB)

 

[Vinci]

So I had the DDM module on my 2007 Lincoln Town Car Designer replaced recently by my independent mechanic...he was told it is out-of-stock until the end of the year so he had to buy a used DDM off eBay.

Then everything worked again except the power seats...I assume because the replacement DDM was from a lower trim/optioned Lincoln Town Car?

But after a month or so everything's dead again.

In others' experience could that be a wire harness/bad ground problem (i.e., shorting the DDM?)

Or do I just need to take it to the dealer & have them replace (if available) with a new DDM & properly program it for my Lincoln Town Car's trim level & options?

Also have the peeling paint ("White Chocolate") issue on roof (big chunks gone) & now starting on the hood...wondering if I should wait until the trunk starts peeling or just repaint now?
Anyone get help from Ford on a repaint for that? (I've read the TSB)

Read my earlier saga. Most mechanics won't put that much effort into troubleshooting, and most independents won't even have a wiring manual, which is essential. The DDMs are out of production and likely will not be made again. There is very little to program in the DDM, again see my posts. You can program the remotes, and not a whole lot more. Any DDM from the right year, which for your car will be 2006-later, should work the seats. You may also have a bad seat module.

Step 1 is to check the two fuses mentioned in this thread, given your situation. You might get lucky and just have a blown fuse.

Step 2 is to check the wires, both hots and the ground, going to the DDM. Be sure to check with a voltmeter, NOT just a power light, as I mentioned earlier. You need to see 12V or better on both power leads. This has to be done at the connector for the DDM. Now that I think about it, your DDM might actually have three hot leads between the three connectors. Gotta have that wiring manual.

If all of this checks out, I guess it's theoretically possible a bad seat module could be shorting the DDM. Having said that, your problem sounds an awful lot like mine. That VT/LG wire I mention splices to the seat module BEFORE it goes to the DDM inside the door, so if that splice is coming apart or that wire is bad like mine was, that could be your problem.

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[ncbill]

Thanks, I'll have the mechanic check for good 12V power on the connector and that the wire splice to the seat module is intact.

He did warn me about a seat module that he couldn't source...the seat can still be adjusted if I have him hook up his $20k scan tool.

Do you have the part number for the seat module?

 

[Vinci]

Thanks, I'll have the mechanic check for good 12V power on the connector and that the wire splice to the seat module is intact.

He did warn me about a seat module that he couldn't source...the seat can still be adjusted if I have him hook up his $20k scan tool.

Do you have the part number for the seat module?

I don't have 2007 P/N's, but you can look it up easily enough yourself on any Ford parts website.

I'm not aware of a way to adjust the seat with a scan tool. Your power seat switch in the door could also be bad, BTW.

He will have to tear into the wiring harness a bit to find the splice. Make sure that he re-tapes and seals it back up.

 

[wolf_walker]

Update as of this morning:
I have four DDMs that will read on FORScan. One of them, S/N 73709 running software version v4 2002-08-22, has different as-built codes from the other three and will not program my remote. It is also showing code B1526, the only one of the three with that code. As-built banks are as follows for it: 8000 0000 FF20.

As-built banks for the other three modules are C000 0000 FF60. They are running SW version v4 2003-02-06. I successfully programmed my remote for all three of those modules, and all three are throwing code U1135, which I am gathering means the battery is weak. Got it on a charger, but that doesn't seem to be helping. Guess I know what's next.

Now, while the remote keyless works with these DDMs, nothing else does. Seat and mirror adjustments are still dead. One of them is throwing additional DTCs B1322 and B1566. So, back to trouble-shooting I go........

From the dept of better late than never and for anyone later searching, my 04 Ultimate with all options is
4000 0000 FFE0

 

[MiddEasteran]

I am beginning my search for a DDM for my 2004 Ultimate and my DDM part number is the 4W1T-13C791-AA. Until about 2 months ago all systems worked but then both fobs lost contact with the DDM. All other systems/buttons still work. I'd like to believe the 3W1T would work for me they seem more available than the 4W1Ts. I can't imaging both fobs losing the ability to contact the DDM at the same time other than the receiver on the DDM going bad. If anyone has a better thought I'd like to hear it.

Did you solve it? I having the same problem all function worked except keyfobs they work if the engine is running or after shut it down for 2 minutes then the key stop work

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[kdv]

An update on my '07 SL, it had 'smartened up' for a while, then failed this spring entirely. Bought a used one, and with the advice here and on the ForScan pages, was able to program it so everything worked. It's been a month or so since fixing, and the wife hasn't complained about anything not working yet. Thanks everybody for the help and information posted here.

 

[raiderfan247365]

An update on my '07 SL, it had 'smartened up' for a while, then failed this spring entirely. Bought a used one, and with the advice here and on the ForScan pages, was able to program it so everything worked. It's been a month or so since fixing, and the wife hasn't complained about anything not working yet. Thanks everybody for the help and information posted here.

Just nice to see someone confirm they programed the DDM with Forscan

 

[08 Signature L]

OK, long story short... 2008 Signature L with about 30k miles... my remote keyless entry stopped working...reprogrammed it, it forgot it again, tried to reprogram the next day and it would not program with either remote. Suspected DDM. Read mainly this thread but a few others... I gathered from the Ford part sales pages that any 2008 unit from a Ford CV, Mercury GM, or Lincoln Town Car should work as they list one module for all vehicles.

Opened my door up and found the DDM part # to be 8W7T-13C791-AD

Went to the local pick a part and found a 2008 Ford CV w/police package pulled the panel and low and behold the exact same part #!!

Brought it home and installed.

As expected some things did not work such as power seats, memory functions, heated seats, etc..

I had previously read the programming from the other module using Forscan.

Wrote the previous file to the new (old) module and cycled the key as instructed.

Everything seems to work!! Seats, memory, mirrors, seat heat, etc...

Now I hope it continues to work If not rest assured I will update.

This is a for sure Forscan program success as the unit did not function before and does now so it was a field program of the DDM, it even wrote the factory door keypad code and seat memory settings to the unit so I didn't have to mess with that.

 

[goldielocksthelincoln2]

Just as an FYI to help others I put up a video about replacing my DDM @
Weird Electrical Problems FIXED - Lincoln Town Car

Hey have you ever had a problem with the passenger side corner light not working I can't get it to work on 2007 signature limited !? It's not the bulb and I'm not sure where to start the turn signal works every other light and function works but that corner bulb I don't see any tears or rips either ...any help is appreciated thank you !

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[etinpa]

Goldie:
This is the second thread you've hijacked with your cornering lights question (I responded to the other one).

You'll probably get more help if you start a new thread for a new problem.

 

[johnyguy]

OK, long story short... 2008 Signature L with about 30k miles... my remote keyless entry stopped working...reprogrammed it, it forgot it again, tried to reprogram the next day and it would not program with either remote. Suspected DDM. Read mainly this thread but a few others... I gathered from the Ford part sales pages that any 2008 unit from a Ford CV, Mercury GM, or Lincoln Town Car should work as they list one module for all vehicles.

Opened my door up and found the DDM part # to be 8W7T-13C791-AD

Went to the local pick a part and found a 2008 Ford CV w/police package pulled the panel and low and behold the exact same part #!!

Brought it home and installed.

As expected some things did not work such as power seats, memory functions, heated seats, etc..

I had previously read the programming from the other module using Forscan.

Wrote the previous file to the new (old) module and cycled the key as instructed.

Everything seems to work!! Seats, memory, mirrors, seat heat, etc...

Now I hope it continues to work If not rest assured I will update.

This is a for sure Forscan program success as the unit did not function before and does now so it was a field program of the DDM, it even wrote the factory door keypad code and seat memory settings to the unit so I didn't have to mess with that.

HI

I am new here I also have a 2008 signature L same options as yours , I am in FL .
my issue is the remote stop working everything else is ok and also i have a battery drain issue .

Can you share the info how you did the programing since we both have the same car?
I have find a unit with same numbers as mine same as your on ebay most likely i need to program it.
Thank you in advance
John

 

[etinpa]

See attached...

 

[johnyguy]

See attached...

i have done this this is not the problem
its forgets the remote after a few second