DISABLE ANC (Active Noise Control - Lincoln Continental

@ContinentalJS
In your post #6 you show a wiring diagram and a IDS page and something else that I cannot read. I checked your model and there are 18 wiring diagrams related to your audio system, so did not go further into detail on that. The #2 pic of the IDS screen is interesting. It looks like a programmable module update from the Ford library that could be showing an ACM update which involves choosing configurable options. If that is the case then the dealer would save your ACM module software in the "scanner" and look for the new module and download it to your car with whatever installation options are available. I don't see why the dealer would need Ford permission to do that. My dealer showed me how that is done on an out of warranty Lincoln. Takes just a few minutes but costs an hour labour that for me was $140.

The ACM is listed as address 727 and is PMI capable and flash capable but no available programmable parameters. You may be able to sweet talk the dealer into showing you what is involved. The options available for the F150 sound interesting although I don't understand all the implications.
 
@ContinentalJS
In your post #6 you show a wiring diagram and a IDS page and something else that I cannot read. I checked your model and there are 18 wiring diagrams related to your audio system, so did not go further into detail on that. The #2 pic of the IDS screen is interesting. It looks like a programmable module update from the Ford library that could be showing an ACM update which involves choosing configurable options. If that is the case then the dealer would save your ACM module software in the "scanner" and look for the new module and download it to your car with whatever installation options are available. I don't see why the dealer would need Ford permission to do that. My dealer showed me how that is done on an out of warranty Lincoln. Takes just a few minutes but costs an hour labour that for me was $140.

The ACM is listed as address 727 and is PMI capable and flash capable but no available programmable parameters. You may be able to sweet talk the dealer into showing you what is involved. The options available for the F150 sound interesting although I don't understand all the implications.
Thanks @Town. Are you able to send me those wiring diagrams.

I went to the dealer and they advised the F150 IDS allows them to change the audio, but not for the Continental. Both screenshots attached.

Think I am just going to end up having to unplug the microphones.
 

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Thanks @Town. Are you able to send me those wiring diagrams.

I went to the dealer and they advised the F150 IDS allows them to change the audio, but not for the Continental. Both screenshots attached.

Think I am just going to end up having to unplug the microphones.
So the F150 is on the left and the Continental is on the right. That is disappointing for you. I can send you the 18 files, perhaps by e-mail, if you PM me your e-mail address. I just tried to save a wiring diagram and failed, so some research is needed to save those type of files.
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In an earlier post, there is a location chart for the sound system components that should show 3 noise cancellation microphones, but I could not see the rear one (#3). So now I have found another location diagram that clearly shows the location of all 3, it is attached.
 

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Hi there,

I have a 2017 Lincoln Continental 3.0L, and am in the process of fitting an after market sound system that includes a 5 channel amplifier and sub woofer. I have been advised by a car audio installer that the active noise cancellation system will play havoc with the aftermarket stereo, the sub in particular.

They have advised that I should remove the roof lining to disconnect 3 mics that are part of the ANC system to disable it.

I'm hoping there is a simpler way to disable the ANC system using the Forscan software or going straight to the module?

FYI: I am using a PC running windows 10 with the latest copy of Forscan Standard Licence installed.

I am new to Forscan and the ford world so any help is greatly appreciated!

Jay
Try turning speed compensation vol setting to off - in audio settings & change all drive function settings to comfort & normal, then cut vehicle off for 30 secs then cut back on...
 
Since I read this thread I began noticing some engine sounds that don't really make sense. Not necessarily unpleasant, but unneeded.
I bet a simple switch on the power supply of the power amplifier could cure that while the radio is off.
 
Since I read this thread I began noticing some engine sounds that don't really make sense. Not necessarily unpleasant, but unneeded.
I bet a simple switch on the power supply of the power amplifier could cure that while the radio is off.

Hi Todor. It may. However, doing so would also kill the ANC noise cancellation system, by also disabling the opposing noise frequency system. So you may not hear those synthesized engine sounds, but the interior will be noisier overall without ANC.

Of course, this assumes the ANC system is working correctly in your vehicle.

On a related note, I sometimes find it a good idea not to begin listening too much to what other people complain about. Helps keep me happier...and possibly a bit saner. Although my wife may disagree on the second point. ;)

Good luck.
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I wouldn't do that, the car sounds OK.
What I would do though is to play some pink and write noise into the system mics and see what happens. Maybe some sinusoidal tones as well :D
Wonder what the outcome will be when someone finally replaces a rear muffler :D I wait for mine to fail, cut it open, reverse engineer it and then re-engineer it keeping the tuning frequencies and increasing capacity (pipe cross section). All in satin SS.
 
I installed an amp on my 2017 Continental, and am putting a jl sub enclosure in. I can tell you it has been a nightmare. I took my input for the amp from the sub initially, doing that gives me a loud bass note when pressing accelerator. So now I tried to use the feed to the rear deck mid range. No engine noise now, but no bass either as that signal is already Crossed over and blocking bass frequencies to protect the mid range. I have no idea where the crossover is, but I need the raw signal prior to the crossover that is blocking out the bass for the rear mid range to make this work. I read that the fake engine noise comes from the front door speakers and the sub, so that's why I had the noise when using sub input. I am at a loss here and have no idea what I can do. I need a signal to run into my amp that is not blocking bass, and has no fake engine noise. Oh, tried forscan too, I am familiar with it from other vehicles but it will not work in the Continental to remove engine noise.
 
Well, even though I got zero response, I can tell you what I did to fix the problem in my 2017 Continental. I know the anc mic locations have been posted all over in here so I won't get into that. I took the drivers side front grab handle off. Since I have pano roof, the Headliner is only like 10" wide between the door trim, and the pano roof. I pulled Headliner down so I can see in there from the inside of the car, and seen a red and a black wire going to the mic. I cut the red one, done deal. Noise is gone. Sub works perfectly with no humming or unwanted sounds when driving. I did not have to touch either of the other two mics.
 
I have some input on the ANC system from experience today.
So I pull to a coffee shop. Turn off accessories (old habit) and prepare to shut down the engine and get out of the car. Then I noticed a strange noise, like air is escaping from somewhere or rear A/C vents are flowing with some restriction in the way. It was a quiet continuous and subtle sound, but constant.
Turned on and off everything several times. Thought the inflatable elements of driver seat were exhausting air.
NO!
Opened a window and it turned out that behind me is parked a minivan that idles really, really loudly with lots of mechanical noises. Closed the window and in the car it was very quiet with only this "tssss" that's similar to FM radio noise with volume almost muted.

Ha! With engine off and door opened and closed the noise from the minivan was audible as it would be in any other car. With the ANC system is was dead quiet except for the "tssss".

Well, even though I got zero response, I can tell you what I did to fix the problem in my 2017 Continental. I know the anc mic locations have been posted all over in here so I won't get into that. I took the drivers side front grab handle off. Since I have pano roof, the Headliner is only like 10" wide between the door trim, and the pano roof. I pulled Headliner down so I can see in there from the inside of the car, and seen a red and a black wire going to the mic. I cut the red one, done deal. Noise is gone. Sub works perfectly with no humming or unwanted sounds when driving. I did not have to touch either of the other two mics.
Congrats for your success, sorry for not replying, but I find the OE system very nice and wouldn't do what you did. Above is one reason why.

Anyway, how is the engine sound now and how is the overall noise?
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Well, even though I got zero response, I can tell you what I did to fix the problem in my 2017 Continental. I know the anc mic locations have been posted all over in here so I won't get into that. I took the drivers side front grab handle off. Since I have pano roof, the Headliner is only like 10" wide between the door trim, and the pano roof. I pulled Headliner down so I can see in there from the inside of the car, and seen a red and a black wire going to the mic. I cut the red one, done deal. Noise is gone. Sub works perfectly with no humming or unwanted sounds when driving. I did not have to touch either of the other two mics.
So just the red wire? I am installing an amp and sub as well on my 17 continental BL for MUCH needed bass. Have you seen any further issues with the cut of the wire?
 
So just the red wire? I am installing an amp and sub as well on my 17 continental BL for MUCH needed bass. Have you seen any further issues with the cut of the wire?
I did not get a response, so I went ahead and investigated the mics in the headliner. As you discussed, I removed the two hex bolts off of the front grab handle, and was able to pry the headliner down about 4 inches (there are clips that snap out and back in). In stead of 'cutting' the red wire, I was able to pull out the connector, and disconnect it. This way, If I return the car to stock when I sell it, I can just clip them back together. This took all of 5 minutes. Open the sunroof for easier access, with a footstool to get up and over. It is much easier working from the top, than in the inside. To be safe, I also did the same thing to the passenger side front, same process, and took 3 minutes after I understood the first one. For now, I left the third mic alone (the one in the back seat). If I feel there is interference, I will disconnect, but based on your one cut of the red wire, you seemed to have success with just that. Thanks to all that posted the information and PDFs for the wiring diagrams!
 
So just the red wire?
Isn't it just simple electronics? You have a circuit with the red wire on one side of the mic and a black on the other. It doesn't matter how or where you break the circuit to disable the mic; red is as good as black.
 
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Isn't it just simple electronics? You have a circuit with the red wire of one side of the mic and a black on the other. I doesn't matter how or where you break the circuit to disable the mic; red is as good as black.
Correct, simple electronics, but I was blind to the idea of just disconnecting the actual connector...that is until I removed the headliner and was like, oh yeah, just disconnect in the event I want it back again, I don't have to splice wires
 
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