Clunking front left side

[Moparbird1970]

I have a 2004 Towncar with 76,000 miles that I just bought 3 months ago. When the car is going about 20mph a clunking noise starts in the front left wheel area. It speeds up with the mph. It doesn't do it while turning. It doesn’t change the sound when you apply the breaks. It only seems to happen going in a straight line. To me it sounds how a universal joint sounds when it’s going bad on a 4 whl drive truck. I had all the brakes and rotars replaced before this happened. Also the tie rods and adjustment sleeves replaced along with an alignment.
has anyone had this problem and can direct throw some ideas out for me?

 

[Brian J. Patterson]

I have a 2004 Towncar with 76,000 miles that I just bought 3 months ago. When the car is going about 20mph a clunking noise starts in the front left wheel area. It speeds up with the mph. It doesn't do it while turning. It doesn’t change the sound when you apply the breaks. It only seems to happen going in a straight line. To me it sounds how a universal joint sounds when it’s going bad on a 4 whl drive truck. I had all the brakes and rotars replaced before this happened. Also the tie rods and adjustment sleeves replaced along with an alignment.
has anyone had this problem and can direct throw some ideas out for me?

Hi, Moparbird1970.

This sounds like the front wheel bearing. In 2003, Ford switched from the "old school" type front wheel bearing set to the "modern" type, such as typically used on front-wheel-drive cars. The front hub and bearing assembly costs $145.56 plus shipping from Tasca. Most shops will charge that much or more, plus installation, if you can't do the job yourself.

To check this, grasp the top of the left wheel and try to shake it. The wheel shouldn't move that much if at all. If it does, it's probably the wheel bearing.

Good luck.

 

[CuttingToolGuy]

You mean while the front left is up in a Jack stand (non Harbor Freight) right?

 

[Moparbird1970]

Hi, Moparbird1970.

This sounds like the front wheel bearing. In 2003, Ford switched from the "old school" type front wheel bearing set to the "modern" type, such as typically used on front-wheel-drive cars. The front hub and bearing assembly costs $145.56 plus shipping from Tasca. Most shops will charge that much or more, plus installation, if you can't do the job yourself.

To check this, grasp the top of the left wheel and try to shake it. The wheel shouldn't move that much if at all. If it does, it's probably the wheel bearing.

Good luck.

Ok, I’ll try that tomorrow. Another question...wouldn’t the shop that put new brake rotors on have replaced the bearings? Isn’t that standard practice anymore?

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[Brian J. Patterson]

You mean while the front left is up in a Jack stand (non Harbor Freight) right?

Hi, CuttingToolGuy.

Preferably, yes, check the car while it's on a set of trustworthy jack stands or a trustworthy lift.

If the bearing is bad enough, you should get movement even with the car on its tires. At least the one I had go bad on a different car did so. Your (and his) mileage may vary.

@Moparbird1970, depending on the shop, they might not have even checked the bearing. And the "Tasca" price I shot you in my first reply is damn-near wholesale. Had the garage "caught it," they would have had to get your permission to do anything about it. My scientific wild-a?? guess to what they'd charge would be around $400, or slightly less if they caught it while doing the brake, and knocked off the charge on the "doubled-up" labor, since you have to remove the caliper and rotor in order to remove the hub and bearing assembly. Like CuttingToolGuy pointed out, it's better to check with at least the front of the car on trustworthy jackstands, and will allow you to catch less-failed wheel bearings then the one I had to replace.

Good luck.

 

[Moparbird1970]

Hi, CuttingToolGuy.

Preferably, yes, check the car while it's on a set of trustworthy jack stands or a trustworthy lift.

If the bearing is bad enough, you should get movement even with the car on its tires. At least the one I had go bad on a different car did so. Your (and his) mileage may vary.

@Moparbird1970, depending on the shop, they might not have even checked the bearing. And the "Tasca" price I shot you in my first reply is damn-near wholesale. Had the garage "caught it," they would have had to get your permission to do anything about it. My scientific wild-a?? guess to what they'd charge would be around $400, or slightly less if they caught it while doing the brake, and knocked off the charge on the "doubled-up" labor, since you have to remove the caliper and rotor in order to remove the hub and bearing assembly. Like CuttingToolGuy pointed out, it's better to check with at least the front of the car on trustworthy jackstands, and will allow you to catch less-failed wheel bearings then the one I had to replace.

Good luck.

Thanks for the advice. I’ve been skimming Youtube videos that replicate the sound. Actually thers two types that sound like it.
1) a cv joint. Which it doesnt have there
2) the dust shield scraping the rotor.
i really hope it’s the dust shield!!

 

[Brian J. Patterson]

Thanks for the advice. I’ve been skimming Youtube videos that replicate the sound. Actually thers two types that sound like it.
1) a cv joint. Which it doesnt have there
2) the dust shield scraping the rotor.
i really hope it’s the dust shield!!

Hi, Moparbird 1970.

Definitely put the front end of the car on jack stands, at the identified points on the frame. Make sure the wheels "just" clear the ground if possible. Check both wheels by grasping the top and trying to shake them. The right side is a "reference," since you have no trouble there. If the wheel is "loose," it's probably the bearing.

If your luck is good, both wheels will be "solid." In that case, remove the left front wheel. You can have an assistant carefully step on the brake pedal to allow you to break the lug nuts loose if you don't have an impact wrench. Or you can carefully wedge something under the wheel to keep it from turning as you break the lug nuts loose. Carefully examine the dust shield to see whether or how badly it's bent. If it's bent, you may be able to straighten it out.

Or, take it back to the shop that did the brakes. They should have put the car back together correctly, and doing that involves installing the dust shield correctly and in such a manner that it does not make contact with the rotor, or anything else. Please let us know what you discover.

Good luck.