Single Mom needs HELP with 2001 Town Car

Susanna Israel

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2001 Lincoln Town Car
My car dies. Had codes read and came back P0340 and P1120. Changed both the camshaft and throttle position sensor and still have the same problem of cutting off. Now car won't start at all. It will crank but no start. Not fuel filter, starter, alternator or battery. I'm wondering if I should change the crankshaft sensor although a code hasn't come up and definitely can't find out now since car won't start to get it to parts store. PLEASE HELP!!! Single mother here trying to get back to work and homeschool my daughter.
 
Is the fuel pump good? Could be that. Or less likely, one possibility is the anti theft system is acting up and cutting the fuel supply to the engine, that has happened many times on my folks' Chevy Suburban, every once in a while it would crank perfectly fine but not start. However, I don't know if the Town Cars anti theft system can have that specific problem. Best wishes and I hope you are able to fix the problem.
 
2001 Lincoln Town Car
My car dies. Had codes read and came back P0340 and P1120. Changed both the camshaft and throttle position sensor and still have the same problem of cutting off. Now car won't start at all. It will crank but no start. Not fuel filter, starter, alternator or battery. I'm wondering if I should change the crankshaft sensor although a code hasn't come up and definitely can't find out now since car won't start to get it to parts store. PLEASE HELP!!! Single mother here trying to get back to work and homeschool my daughter.

I would first double-check that the new parts are installed correctly. If they are installed wrong, re-install them right. Second I would try to test the new parts, since occasionally "new" parts are bad out-of-the-box. If you can confirm that either or both new parts are actually bad, replace them.

The passive anti-theft system could be acting up. Observe the behavior of the red led on top of the dash when you try to start the car. It should come on solid for about three seconds or so and go out completely when you turn the key to run. If it does anything else, the PATS is acting up. This happens most "often" with "clone" keys, I.E. you only got one "Illco-illin" generic key, not the two Lincoln regular keys the car came with.

In any case, you will probably have to have the car towed or trailered to a repair shop. If the PATS is acting up, make sure the repair shop can "write" to the first and second key memory registers in the Powertrain Control Module before taking the car to them. All Ford and Lincoln dealer service departments can. Some but not all independant mechanics can also. Your $2500 car may be "stalled" because of a knock-off $2.50 key. Replacing both keys should cost less than $200 out the door, plus whatever you end up paying to get the car to them.

Good luck.
 
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