Screw points on front door cards?

Stevessvt

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My Lincoln
23 Volvo XC40 B4 Plus
Anyone know of, or have a diagram of where the screws are to tighten on the front doors of the Corsair? My drivers side door has started making noise over rougher roads and it stops if I put pressure on the door cards. Hopefully tightening them down helps.
 
The doors are attached by hinges so I imagine it’s the brackets that hold the hinges to the body.
Thanks, but I’m talking the inside, plastic panels attached to the doors themselves.
 
Anyone know of, or have a diagram of where the screws are to tighten on the front doors of the Corsair? My drivers side door has started making noise over rougher roads and it stops if I put pressure on the door cards. Hopefully tightening them down helps.
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There are two small 7mm bolts along the bottom of the door panel, there is a 10mm bolt behind the inside door handle release backing trim. You need to to carefully pry out the black trim piece behind the inside door handle ( trim piece is held in with pressure snaps) to get to the bolt. You need to carefully pry up the window switch control panel to remove the door card panel. There may be another bolt behind there. The door card panel lifts up to remove and disconnect the wiring. There is a YouTube video of a 2021 Nautilus door card panel removal which is similar to the Corsair. Just google it.
 
There are two small 7mm bolts along the bottom of the door panel, there is a 10mm bolt behind the inside door handle release backing trim. You need to to carefully pry out the black trim piece behind the inside door handle ( trim piece is held in with pressure snaps) to get to the bolt. You need to carefully pry up the window switch control panel to remove the door card panel. There may be another bolt behind there. The door card panel lifts up to remove and disconnect the wiring. There is a YouTube video of a 2021 Nautilus door card panel removal which is similar to the Corsair. Just google it.
Awesome! Thank you!

Where on the door panel do you put the pressure when it stops?
Either in the cut out of the cubby hole or on the outside of it, pushing in. It was unusually cold this morning for South Florida, 48, which may have made it bad enough for me to notice it, I hadn’t heard it before.
 
Awesome! Thank you!


Either in the cut out of the cubby hole or on the outside of it, pushing in. It was unusually cold this morning for South Florida, 48, which may have made it bad enough for me to notice it, I hadn’t heard it before.
Cobby hole is on the bottom of the door panel so check those two lower small bolts under the panel to start
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How about taking it to the dealer and letting them do it? Some of the trim panels have pins that will break if you attempt to pry the panel off. If you take it to the dealer after you break the pins they will most likely charge you for the replacement. They might be plastic but they are definitely not inexpensive.

When you take it into the dealer, take the service technician for a ride in your vehicle so you can demonstrate what the issue is firsthand. Otherwise, you may get the dreaded could not replicate response.

Good luck!
 
How about taking it to the dealer and letting them do it? Some of the trim panels have pins that will break if you attempt to pry the panel off. If you take it to the dealer after you break the pins they will most likely charge you for the replacement. They might be plastic but they are definitely not inexpensive.

When you take it into the dealer, take the service technician for a ride in your vehicle so you can demonstrate what the issue is firsthand. Otherwise, you may get the dreaded could not replicate response.

Good luck!
You are, of course, absolutely right. In the old days I would have had no problem with tearing in to it myself. But cars where more basic back then. All the screw heads where out in the open. And a lot less expensive to fix.

I might be right in that once it warmed up above 60 I don’t hear it anymore. I think I’ll leave well enough alone in this case. I have a terrible reputation of the more I try and making something better, the worse I make it.
 
You are, of course, absolutely right. In the old days I would have had no problem with tearing in to it myself. But cars where more basic back then. All the screw heads where out in the open. And a lot less expensive to fix.

I might be right in that once it warmed up above 60 I don’t hear it anymore. I think I’ll leave well enough alone in this case. I have a terrible reputation of the more I try and making something better, the worse I make it.

Hi Stevessvt. You can go around the trim panel and check/lightly tighten all the visible bolts/screws/fasteners if you want. But after that, if still within the 4 year/50,000 mile New Vehicle Warranty, I would definitely recommend you allow the Service Department to take a shot at it before taking things apart yourself.

And when you bring your vehicle in...Do not go in, tell them your door squeaks, hand them the keys and leave. Instead, ask the Service Advisor to send a Tech on a ride with you (or go with you himself/herself), so you can demonstrate the squeak/creak. And get them to state they hear it. Then tell them where you discovered to push on the panel to alleviate it. In this way, you can avoid the dreaded "could not duplicate the customer concern" diagnosis.

Another thing you can try, is to pick up a can of Teflon spray dry lubricant. Using the little red straw attachment, spray it up behind the door card in the area of the squeak/creak (if accessible). A light spray along the door panel/gap area for starters. No need to overdo/drown it.

I had a squeaking/creaking piece of door pillar trim on my 2018 MKZ. The black trim piece covering the outside of the rear pillar of the right rear door.
Short story: The car was quiet as a bank vault for the first 5 months I had it, until November/cold weather rolled around. Then a squeak/creak began to occur in the right rear door pillar areas.
Had my Dealership check it on the next service. They sent it to their body shop to have checked. The body shop replaced the right rear exterior pillar trim cover (the piano black piece).
It was quiet for the rest of the winter. Then when the weather began to warm up (ironically), it returned...😂
I decide to try the dry Teflon spray that I use on our home window tracks etc...
With the doors open, I sprayed it in the gaps/openings that can be seen between the various door outside trim pieces and the metal pillars . Did all four doors, just for good measure. That was 3+ years ago, and not a squeak or creak since.

One heads up. It dries as a dry white powder (the propellant quickly evaporates). So protect the area you are spraying to keep if from accidental over-spray/getting on the interior door panels, seat leather, carpet etc. It wipes off easily, but no sense in taking chances.
I had my wife hold a towel around the gap I had the straw extension stuck into while I was spraying, to avoid a mess in case the straw slipped out.

If interested, this is the dry teflon spray I use: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blaster-Ha...V0NSzCh0Y8Af_EAQYAiABEgLIrPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

So try that if you like. But if still within warranty, I would recommend you let the Service Department give it a check first.

Let us know how you make out and good luck.
 
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... I have a terrible reputation of the more I try and making something better, the worse I make it.
You are NOT alone! I now say: "Don't tickle it, it will laugh at you"
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