intro, and a question please

[presidente79]

intro, and a question please, problem with key fob

Hi everybody, I'm new here. My name is Rodrigo, jack of all trades at my work (where the official title is "operations manager") father to a boy that's giving me more gray hairs than I thought, husband to none (love my girlfriend/mother of my child, but I was married and got divorced, never again!)

anyway. I bought a 2011 MKT 3 months ago, so far it's proven to be an excellent vehicle. Problem today is that wife went to unlock it... and it won't.
Now, when I bought it, the dealer only had 1 keyfob, and that was fine for us. Last night it worked OK, earlier today it worked OK (when she took our son to school), but when she went to pick him up, none of the keyfob buttons responded. Had to take the blade out to open the door, and thank god the PTS worked without a problem.

When I came home the obvious thing to try was the battery. I knew the dealer had a fresh one in when we bought it, but wtf, it's 5 bucks. no dice. It's a pain in the you know what, and I can't help thinking that sooner or later the plastic latch on the blade will break or get loose, but I'm trying to avoid here going to the dealership and getting charged a couple of benjamins for a new keyfob.

anybody experience anything similar, and more importantly; any suggestions as to what to do?


thanks in advance.

 

[turbodave]

Had a similar problem last month. Turned out to be fob batteries going dead. They die fast once they get weak. My pts wouldn't even work.

You sure you got the battery in correctly?

 

[SGilbert]

Yes, fresh battery!. (Bought mine at Radio Shack) In the center console, there is a small hole in the rear; put your fob in it to re-connect it to the car.

 

[presidente79]

Hi turbodave, thanks for the reply.

I did put it in the right way. I even tried flipping it (honestly when I opened the fob the battery seemed to just "pop out") and it weirded me out, I thought for a moment that the compartment was broken but I then realized that this is how it actually sits, kind of slanted and pops out as soon as the cover is out. anyway, this is a fresh duracell battery, tried it on another device (a bathroom scale) that uses the same size battery, works OK (in fact, the "old" fob battery works just fine in the scale). I read somewhere else (on a ford forum) that sometimes the supporting pins need to be "raised" a bit. I haven't tried that as they look in good shape and you can "feel" how they push against the battery.

I also read on the manual that you should not clean any "grease" (if found) from the contacts. I can't see any on mine, and I assume they're referring to some dielectric compound that might be sometimes present. I don't think that is necessary, but it will be my last ditch effort (getting some of it at local store) and slightly raising those pins before I cave in and go to the local dealership. I have to go for a recall anyway, so I'll casually mention the fob and cross my fingers that it doesn't need to be replaced...

any further ideas? this is frustrating af....

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[presidente79]

Yes, fresh battery!. (Bought mine at Radio Shack) In the center console, there is a small hole in the rear; put your fob in it to re-connect it to the car.

I hadn't considered that SGilbert, will give it a try.

I read somewhere else (even on the manual, I think) that losing battery power should NOT disconnect the fob from the car, and as I just mentioned on previous reply to turbodave, the "old" battery still seems to have plenty of juice on it. this was not the typical battery going bad case where you get "warnings" that it's about to crap out (erratic response, shortened range). it just decided to stop working, period.

as I said, will try the "reconnect" thing, and will report back.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum.
First of all the dealer should have provided 2 sets, not 1. Instead of using the key blade, why not use the keyless entry pad (Securicode)?
I would definitely try a new battery in the fob to begin with. It's the least expensive option at this point. The slot in the console is there in case the battery in the fob is too low to be recognized by the start/stop system. The fob has to be inserted in a particular way. It is covered in the Manual.

Peter

 

[presidente79]

Welcome to the Forum.
First of all the dealer should have provided 2 sets, not 1. Instead of using the key blade, why not use the keyless entry pad (Securicode)?
I would definitely try a new battery in the fob to begin with. It's the least expensive option at this point. The slot in the console is there in case the battery in the fob is too low to be recognized by the start/stop system. The fob has to be inserted in a particular way. It is covered in the Manual.

Peter

Hi Peter. I bought this car from a non-Lincoln dealer, (autobahn USA, for what is worth) and was aware from the get-go that only one fob was available.
What I was NOT aware of is that in order to get a new one programmed in apparently I need to have the 2 original ones. Perhaps I misunderstood what I've read, that wouldn't make sense in case you actually lost one fob... that'd be great because right now - thankfully - the PTS works, but having to slide the blade in and out to open the doors is a pain. You're correct, I should setup securicode, have been too lazy to read thru the few steps it requires. The fact that PTS still works means that it's just the actual physical buttons not working, as I have no need to place the fob on the console slot to get the car running. I did try changing the battery, actually tried 2 fresh Duracell ones; but all 4 buttons remain completely useless.

Wife says she did nothing that could cause the fob to fail (no hard drops, no liquid accidents), so apparently it's just something that crapped out on its own. So, I'm starting to think that either the fob transmitter is broken (if the transmitter is separated from the "recognition" method itself, which I assume it is) or in the worse case, the receiver in the car crapped out, which really will piss me off. I'm calling a couple of dealers today (Lincoln and Ford) to price the fob, regardless of what happens to this one I do need a second one.

thank you all for your replies, I will update the post with the findings/resolution once I get one.

 

[vinaygoel2000]

If you don't know the factory code for the keypad, that'll also set you back $60 for a Lincoln dealership to find that.

I didn't know we need two fobs to get a new fob programmed. I was told all I need is a barcode, which I have kept safely.

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[peterk9]

Do you have remote start and or global windows down? Trying those features would tell you if the fob is transmitting or are those part of the "useless" keys.
Panic button?

Peter

 

[peterk9]

I'm not sure if the MKT is the same as the 5th generation Explorer or not but the original code is written near the cabin fuse panel. I'll have to check my MKT Manual but for the Explorer you need 2 keys in order to DIY program a 3rd using the console slot.

Peter

 

[presidente79]

not sure if this car has remote start (don't think so, checked the "window sticker" and didn't see it listed there on the options)

regarding panic button or global windows down, I believe global windows down was programmed in, but as I mentioned earlier, none of the buttons are working on the fob. Again, once I get in, the car starts without a problem and without having to set the fob in the center console, so it's coming down to either the transmitter on the fob, or the receiver in the car. Not sure at this point which one is worse.

 

[presidente79]

not sure what code you refer to here.
I believe that the key cut code is on some sort of sticker, which vinaygoel2000 wrote about, that's what the manual says. I don't think I have that, but that's another story I guess.

as far as the 5-digit keypad factory code, I found it written on the manual (thank god) and per the manual itself it also should be provided with the original paperwork, on some sort of card.

yes, to program another "intelligent access" key, you need the 2 original ones present, says so on the manual (see picture).

If one is lost then you're SOL and have to go to the dealership, can't program that on your own. That's robbery in my opinion. Have a Lexus (that this Lincoln is supposed to be replacing) and didn't have to deal with that BS on that car.

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[presidente79]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3utuvyecls4r15z/20161014_065654.jpg?dl=0

tried to insert this image before, not sure if I'm doing this right.

 

[vinaygoel2000]

That's what I meant Presidente79, if you dont have one or two fobs but have the barcode on a sticker, you can take to dealership to get a new fob. Barcode is all they need to get a fob made.

 

[presidente79]

crazy! have to pay to reprogram, can't tell why/how it would fail in the first place

That's what I meant Presidente79, if you dont have one or two fobs but have the barcode on a sticker, you can take to dealership to get a new fob. Barcode is all they need to get a fob made.

well, I called the dealer today, this is what I can expect:
1.- $100 to reprogram the existing fob (assuming it works) the guy couldn't explain why, how or if it's been previously observed that a fob would de-program itself without any apparent reason.
2.- $150 for a new fob (so we have a second one)

I'm taking the car in on the 24th for the open FSA on this car (EPAS steering efforts) and will have them look at the key issue that day as well.

the car is at 88,500 miles right now, I'm pondering having the 90k miles service done, might as well... what do you guys think?

I'm thinking to try to convince them to do the re-programming of the existing fob at no charge, but if that doesn't fly, thru no fault of our own; I may have to shell $100 just so they reprogram that fob. that prospect pisses me off. As I mentioned on a previous reply, I've programmed additional keys and fobs to my old Lexus without any problems, just bought them online and did the work myself.

 

[vinaygoel2000]

When you take it for the FSA, can you tell them after the fix that "hey now the fob doesn't work. What did you guys do".

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[presidente79]

key fob problem solved, but not a happy camper.

hi again everybody, here's the update, it's solved but I'm not happy.
went to dealer last week. according to the lincoln owners' website and the app, my car was due in for a recall, EPAS steering efforts, 15N01. Once there, the service tech (very pleasant by the way) read thru the text and it seems that their internal info points to 2 things: one is in fact a recall, and according to the car's records it was already done, and another is an optional steering replacement part that I could buy if I wanted (didn't).

on to the key fob issue: the fob worked insofar as letting me turn the engine on, but buttons were still dead. Battery not obviously the issue, so I dropped the car for them to do a "thorough diagnostics code read" (their words). got a call a couple of hours later confirming that the fob was working and they would need to re-code it. They couldn't explain how or why the fob would "lose" its programming, but the quote was: $159 for the diagnostics, $120 for the new fob, and the balance for labor.

Since I did need a second fob, I was already expecting to pay that, and I have no problem paying for a man's honest labor, but $159 for diagnostics? I am pissed off and disappointed. I haven't had the time, but I will write to the dealership and to Lincoln. Probably won't do much, but if anything this will be a big factor in deciding the next car purchase down the road. Do I want to deal with a car company that won't own up to its hardware suddenly failing (without customer's fault) and charge such a figure for running diagnostics? I've owned Chevy, Pontiac, Saturn, Lexus and now Lincoln, and I have to say that by far, Lincoln (in the short months of ownership) has disappointed me the most and quickest.

Love the car, but the service is not up there where a "lux" marquee should. Oh, and one last pest peeve: If I'm paying all this money, the fob should be a Lincoln... no, I received a Ford-tagged one.

 

[vinaygoel2000]

Sorry to hear about that. I actually have been buying Lincolns because of awesome service. Always have the Premier ESP.