Heat,Vent and AC control unit, HVAC or maybe it is called ETAC

[krb1945]

The "vent" button on my 96 Town Car HVAC control unit quit working (it might also be known as the ETAC control). Mine is one with the temperature and automatic buttons. Everything works except the Vent.

I've seen a repair service called "MODULE REPAIR PRO" in Van Nuys CA . I'm considering sending the HVAC control unit to them for repair. They are listed on Ebay and repair them for $99. They offer a lifetime warranty after they install their repair kit which they say was developed over years of doing repairs on these control units. They advertise a two day repair and turn around once they receive your unit.

Has anyone in the Lincoln Town Car forum ever used this rebuild/repair service? Ken

 

[Town]

The EATC (electronic automatic temperature control) module may be at fault, but the vent button actuates a vacuum control on the back of the unit that directs vacuum to the vacuum control actuators for the mode doors for floor and defrost/panel. The default setting is defrost where the floor door is closed and the panel/defrost door is set to defrost (no vacuum at the vacuum motor). So you need to find where the air flow is going, i.e. defroster? Does the system work correctly for the A/C operation to the panel vents?

The probability is a vacuum leak at the EATC or the lines or the vacuum motor.

Good luck.

 

[Town]

The tech section has a thread dealing with the self test of the EATC: http://www.lincolnforums.com/forums/threads/10459-Town-Car-EATC-Self-test in post #6 is the procedure for the 1996 Town Car. While there is no error code for a failing vent control, it may show up some helpful info.

I think there is an EATC control diagram for the vacuum control and how to identify the vacuum circuits. I will try to find this. In the meantime I have attached a document that describes the air flow for the '96 that may be helpful in diagnosing your problem.

Good luck..

 

[krb1945]

On my control it no longer returns to the normal rest position. The button stays in the pushed position and does not activate the word "vent" on the display. When the ac is on I do get cool air through the dash vents that face the driver/passenger.

With the system in the "off" position ... when I press the "vent" button there is no out side air from the vents and the word vent does not light up on the display.

I'll get under the dash this week and see if there is a disconnected or damaged vacuum hose.

Town, I sure do appreciate your assistance on these issues. Have a great week. Ken

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[Town]

I checked the manual for the EATC control over the vacuum operation of the floor and defrost/panel and recirc door motors. It appears the EATC controls the vacuum doors through internal vacuum circuits. The hoses attached to the back of the EATC unit should be black/gray for vacuum source (vacuum canister) and red and yellow hoses for full floor and partial floor/defrost doors, blue hose for panel door and white hose for the recirc door. Attached is the vacuum distribution diagrams that show this info.

The vacuum motors and hoses appear to be OK since A/C works properly to distribute air to the panel registers. Perhaps there is a mechanical problem (that you could correct) causing the vent button to not perform its function and stick.

Good luck.

 

[krb1945]

Town is the trim around the "heat/air/vent control unit" snap in retainers or is there also a screw hidden someplace? I been looking in the manual and it indicates they are all snap in and the controller is held in with screws. The reason for my question, "sometimes I can't see for looking" as my granddad use to say.

It looks like we are going to have a nice day tomorrow and I want to take it out for inspection to see if I can fix it myself. If I can't repair it... I want send it off for repairs. I see there is a place in south FL called TAXIPROthat repairs these HVAC/EATC control units.

Thanks Ken

 

[Town]

Based upon the attached EATC removal procedure I agree with you, it appears there are 6 tabs on the instrument panel upper molding that covers the EATC. It appears the panel is levered straight out from the instrument panel a little at a time for all 6 tabs to reveal the EATC. Then the EATC is removed after the 4 screws are removed. ETC....

 

[krb1945]

I removed the EATC today and it appears it has been out before. I am basing this on the fact the factory seal had been removed and was stuck to the side wing where the bolts go. I opened the case and the circuit board looks perfect. No burns or discolorations and I don't see any solder cracks or problems. I did notice after removing the "VENT" button that the little foam press module behind the button has slipped down some. I centered it and will re-install it in the morning.

There is something puzzling about the part number and information label... it says PN: F6VH-19C933-AB then is has the word "WHITE". There is nothing white on this one.... it has a black face and the plastic casing that holds the electronics is yellow. It also says made in Canada.

I checked the vacuum hoses on the control and they look good. I'll see if I can see the rest of the hose and the connections tomorrow.
Ken

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[Town]

I hope that centering the foam press module behind the vent button fixes your problem. Sounds like it could be a mechanical problem preventing the vent button from going all the way in to complete the circuits.

I checked Google for your EATC part # and there were lots of e-Bay examples, such as this "re-manufactured" unit: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/96-97-Lincol...Control-EATC-ATC-/230555319078#ht_1925wt_1154

Good luck with your test in the morning.

 

[krb1945]

EATC Control REPAIRED!

After opening the EATC and inspecting solder connections for cracks and lose connections... I found no defective solder joints.

Since my problem was the "VENT" button not working I carefully pulled the black VENT" button from the face plate and saw a little white button on the circuit board behind the face place. It looks like a little stem mounted on a coated foam backing. This little white button was not centered under the face plate black button. The adhesive on the back of this mount may have dried and let the button slip. I centered the stem so it would be in the correct place. I reassembled and reinstalled. It works great now.

Notes and cautions if you attempt this project:

The Yellow (called white) plastic housing where the circuit board is mounted is "FRAGILE"! The most fragile I've ever dealt with "extreme caution" is necessary. I used gorilla glue to repair the two cracks.

When removing the buttons use care not to mar them more than they already are from everyday wear.

As you get it back in position make sure the electronic plug connections are fully seated. You may hear a click.

Carefully push the brightly colored (red, yellow, blue, white) vacuum hoses so they are seated fully on their stem.
Install the two mount screws that holds their mount in position.

Slide the EATC back slowly... you may have to reach under the dash while sliding back to move the wire harness backward. Mine kept trying go under.

RE-install the four EATC screws.

RE-install the negative battery cable and test to see if you saved your self some money. Ken

 

[Town]

Congratulations on fixing your vent problem. That's smart.

 

[krb1945]

Well my EATC repair on the "vent" button didn't last long. I'll put it on the shelf and fix it later. I got an experienced replacement from a 95 Town Car. Got the replacement from rmdean00@yahoo.com. He gets plenty of them from salvage yards in TX. I try to shop locally but the Town Car's in my year range are "few and far between". I installed the replacement today. Now all is well with the EATC.

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[Town]

Sounds like you have a good supplier for parts for your car.