'77 Mark V ignition module

[denpo]

Hi guys, I'm posting on behalf of a friend who owns a '77 Continental Mark V. He's having a lot of trouble with his car, mainly engine clean cut off while driving plus some crank-no-start, and I stepped in to help him out.
The car is in almost pristine shape, always garage kept, no rust whatsoever.
After changing the battery, the spark plugs and wires and the ignition coil, all we can think of is a faulty ignition switch, so I have two question for the collective Lincoln brain :

-Any idea what could cause the issue apart from what we changed already and the ignition switch.
-Any idea on how to reach the ignition switch. Repair manual just tell to lower the steering column, however the plastic lower dash cover that covers the entire width of the car is in the way, and removing it seems to involve getting pretty much all the dash out. pretty daunting task if you ask me.

Any help is welcome, I'm pretty new to Lincoln myself, and even if I'm willing to help him out, I don't want to do more harm than good.

Thanks in advance

 

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Welcome to the LOG.

There is a Continental Mark forum that you might consider using in the future.

If the repair manual that you are using is NOT a factory manual, I would suggest losing that on. And get a factory manual.
The factory manual set is 5 books. At minimum only volumes 1 thru 4 are needed.
These are a red soft cover and all FLM cars are in the same set. (see attached) Can be found on eBay.
Searching by Lincoln shop manual will show more expensive listings than if one searches for Ford. They are all the same. Buying in a group or individually works.
You might also consider the wiring diagram. This came in a larger manual set for all models. Buying this can get expensive. Or some sellers on eBay have split up the wiring set and are selling individual sections.
Throw the Motors and Chiltons manuals away. They do not work for electrical items or any detail. Want to know how to chnage the oil or a light bulb. Sure get a Motors manual. Want to know more, use the Motors manual when your parking brake is broken and get a factory set.

The ignition switch is mounted on top (or a side) of the column and towards the bottom of the column. Yes there is a plastic trim cover that needs to be removed. However it will be two or for #1 phillips screws. This may require a longer screwdriver shaft to reach the screw head.
The switch is mounted in an awkward way. Dropping the column makes it easier to access. However reassembly is more involved.
Also know the the ignition switch mounting is adjustable. Getting the correct adjustment is critical.

With all of that said, it sounds like the ignition switch replacement is a guess. Guessing is an expensive way to repair a vehicle.

I am not clear on the issue. I gather it is a driveability issue. Engine stalls.
(If correct the ignition switch is not part of that)
When does the engine stall?
When engine is hot or cold?
Or does outside temps matter when this occurs?
At what speed is the vehicle traveling?
Is the occurances consistant? Meaning are the circumstances always the same when the engine stalls.
When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?

When the engine stalls, spray some starting fluid, then attempt to start the engine.
OR
If the ignition module is suspect (title of thread) tap it and start the engine. If the module is hot, spray some water on it to see if the engine will start.

In the factory shop manual there is a routine procedure that can be followed to eliminate good items to drill down to the problem.

Action

 

[denpo]

Welcome to the LOG.

Thanks

There is a Continental Mark forum that you might consider using in the future.

May I get the url, this forum is the first that came from googling.

If the repair manual that you are using is NOT a factory manual, I would suggest losing that on. And get a factory manual.
The factory manual set is 5 books. At minimum only volumes 1 thru 4 are needed.
These are a red soft cover and all FLM cars are in the same set. (see attached) Can be found on eBay.
Searching by Lincoln shop manual will show more expensive listings than if one searches for Ford. They are all the same. Buying in a group or individually works.
You might also consider the wiring diagram. This came in a larger manual set for all models. Buying this can get expensive. Or some sellers on eBay have split up the wiring set and are selling individual sections.
Throw the Motors and Chiltons manuals away. They do not work for electrical items or any detail. Want to know how to chnage the oil or a light bulb. Sure get a Motors manual. Want to know more, use the Motors manual when your parking brake is broken and get a factory set.

I got him the Haynes, because we didn't know better. It's supposed to cover Lincolns from 1970 thru 2005, needless to says it's very light on pretty much everything.

The ignition switch is mounted on top (or a side) of the column and towards the bottom of the column. Yes there is a plastic trim cover that needs to be removed. However it will be two or for #1 phillips screws. This may require a longer screwdriver shaft to reach the screw head.
The switch is mounted in an awkward way. Dropping the column makes it easier to access. However reassembly is more involved.
Also know the the ignition switch mounting is adjustable. Getting the correct adjustment is critical.

I already made an attempt at changing it, managed to remove the steering column cover, I could see the sucker, but I failed at lowering the column, there is two nut that I removed, as shown in this picture :
https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/2X/d/db799b9e7d291dcd7b8e2015e6166c00a488dd55.JPG
(taken from this page : Replacing Ignition Switch on Lincoln Continental Mark IV
But still the column did not seem to be willing to move.

With all of that said, it sounds like the ignition switch replacement is a guess. Guessing is an expensive way to repair a vehicle.

I am not clear on the issue. I gather it is a driveability issue. Engine stalls.
(If correct the ignition switch is not part of that)
When does the engine stall?
When engine is hot or cold?
Or does outside temps matter when this occurs?
At what speed is the vehicle traveling?
Is the occurances consistant? Meaning are the circumstances always the same when the engine stalls.
When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?

True, this is pure guessing.
What is pushing toward and electrical problem is are those facts :
The car never studder, it's always a clean loss of power, my logic there is that if it was fuel related it the loss of power would me more fuzzy, no there the engine quits all the sudden, would it be hot or cold. The car is only driven to the next door car show so the car is travelling a low speed and the trip never last more than 10 to 20 minutes Sometimes it would quit seconds after is started moving, something minutes, something is would refuse to start (crank but not start). It occurs very other and seems to get worse with the time, to the point the owner wouldn't feel confident to use it at all.

When the engine stalls, spray some starting fluid, then attempt to start the engine.
OR
If the ignition module is suspect (title of thread) tap it and start the engine. If the module is hot, spray some water on it to see if the engine will start.

We will definitely check that out.

In the factory shop manual there is a routine procedure that can be followed to eliminate good items to drill down to the problem.

Action

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View attachment 18650

Thanks so much taking the time to write this long answer, we are going to search for those genuine manuals.

 

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Haynes, light on data. But heavy enough to be a good tire stop when changing a tire.

Skip the ignition switch work. If it fails there is no restart. It just stops supplying power to the ignition system.

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