2017 Lincoln Continental wheel nut torque setting

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The Owner's Manual for the 2017 Lincoln Continental lists the wheel stud as M14x1.5 and the torque setting as 162 ft/lbs. That is a lot higher torque than I was expecting since my Town Car only requires 100 ft/lbs. It turns out to be a common torque for M14 studs which are 0.55" in diameter and compares to 9/16" studs which are 0.56" in diameter. So many of the larger US vehicles have torque settings of 150 ft/lbs and for work trucks where 5/8" is a common size the torque setting can be over 200 ft/lbs.

I think the 162 ft/lbs of torque will need a long wrench in the trunk for emergencies and a large torque wrench at home. Some anti-seize on the threads might be a good idea too so that corrosion does not increase the torque requirement. The extract from my Owner's Manual is as follows:

"TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Wheel Lug Nut Torque Specifications

WARNING
When installing a wheel, always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign materials present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the
surface of the wheel hub, brake drum or brake disc that contacts the wheel. Make sure that any fasteners that attach the rotor to the
hub are secured so they do not interfere with the mounting surfaces of the wheel. Installing wheels without correct metal-to-metal contact at
the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the wheel nuts to loosen and the wheel to come off while your vehicle is in motion, resulting in loss
of control.

* Bolt size M14 x 1.5 * Torque in Ib-ft (Nm)162 lb.ft (220 Nm)

Torque specifications are for nut and bolt threads free of dirt and rust. Use only Ford recommended replacement fasteners.
Retighten the lug nuts to the specified torque within 100 miles (160 kilometers) after any wheel disturbance (such as tire rotation, changing a
flat tire, wheel removal).

Page 367"


Good luck.
 
I once wondered why a neighbor couldn't change his Ford Expedition's flat tire. After I purchased my Navigator, I found out why. It required 150 foot pounds of torque! Does FoMoCo really think that anyone could change a tire, on the road, with the factory tool? I had to use a breaker bar WITH my floor jack handle to remove the lug nuts! Currently my lug nuts are set to 130 pounds as that's easier to remove. For the last 3 years, I've had no issues with the nuts loosening. I asked in these forums and other Lincoln sites as no one could offer an answer. The dealerships do not tighten them to 150. When they replaced a leaking R/F strut, the nuts were set to around 100--too loose--reset to 130.

Three years ago, I applied a light coating of anti-seize compound to avoid rust, etc. Things don't really rust in AZ, they dry out. I carry a HD compressor & flat repair kit to get me to a service station IF I had a flat. Also carry a breaker bar & 4' pipe if I must remove a wheel in a remote location. I remember my 1990 Ford E-250 Club Wagon did not have the high torque on the lugs. I seem to remember there were more lugs nuts than 6.

For your Continental, 162 ft pounds of torque will be interesting at service time. Will they or won't they re-tighten them to 162? So far, for any warranty work, my lugs were not near specs. Back in 1970, I almost lost a tire and body damage when a tire was loose. I felt it, pulled over and found the lugs loose. The dealership replaced the wheel, all studs & lug nuts due to their error. Since then, I always check the lug nuts on any vehicle I purchase or have service. The only place that really uses a torque wrench is COSTCO.

And of course, you'll be able to remove your lug nuts with the factory tool! I recommend a breaker bar and 4' section of pipe.
 
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My AZ Lincoln Dealership service department told me that they do NOT use a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts. From what I experienced there, they are telling me fact. They claim they use a bar to tighten the lug nuts. I asked how do you know when you reached the correct torque for the vehicle you are working on? No response other than they'll check and get back to me. That was two months ago and no "getting back to me."
 
My dealer uses a torque wrench. I have seen it used on my previous Town Car and on other cars being worked on at the dealership. The wheel is mounted and tightened and then let down off the hoist and the torque wrench used to set the torque and then the rest of the wheels are torqued even if not removed from the vehicle. Some shops use a torque stick as a faster way to get the job done quickly. Both approaches get the job done. I think your service rep may not have been in touch with the Shop Techs work practices and is now educated and too embarrassed to let you know.

Perhaps you need to find another dealer?
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My AZ Lincoln Dealership service department told me that they do NOT use a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts. From what I experienced there, they are telling me fact. They claim they use a bar to tighten the lug nuts. I asked how do you know when you reached the correct torque for the vehicle you are working on? No response other than they'll check and get back to me. That was two months ago and no "getting back to me."

I wonder if the bar they use is a "Torque Stick" that is graded to one torque spec and used in an impact wrench? They come in many different sizes. I don't have any but they are used in shops on wheel nuts.

I used the stock jack and wheel wrench to practice a wheel change. The stock wheel wrench is a deep 21mm (for the 14mm stud) and about 18" long and easily releases a wheel nut torqued to 150 ft lbs. It also can tighten a wheel nut to 160 ft lbs. Quite a nice setup that I hope I never have to use again.
 
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