Thanks Brian - that was just the kind of input I was looking for.
We live in MA, MD and FL and move between them on each change in seasons. As a result, I don't really have a mechanic I know and trust in all the places. And since I don't ride the brakes, despite 145K, I have not had all that many brake jobs and cannot really vouch for the last one being done well.
Behind my question about brakes is my wife trying to get me to dump the Town Car and get something newer and "safer", but my experience with the Town Car leads me to believe I could keep it running, working well, and safe with some amount of investment - and there is no other vehicle like the Town Car.
Based on your input I plan to get the brakes done by a competent shop with rotors and pads as they suggest and then see how it performs.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks Again,
Dave
Hi, zonardave.
While reading your reply, one other thought came to mind. While it doesn't really change my recommendation any, I'll share it anyhow.
Most regular "factory" disc brakes are a type called the "floating caliper." This includes the P71 Vic and the limo package Town Car. That means that there is one (or sometimes two) brake pistons on one side of the caliper, and none on the other, just the other pad. The caliper is mounted in such a way as to be able to "float," or move from side to side.
When the brakes are applied, the pressure of the piston applies force to the brake pad on that side. The piston is also applying force in the opposite direction to the caliper itself. This causes the caliper to move away from the rotor. However, the other side of the caliper moves in the same direction, applying pressure to the brake pad opposite the piston, applying almost equal force to both pads, and thus slowing or stopping the car.
The auto makers use this system since it's cheaper to produce, and works well when it works. However, it relies on the caliper being able to freely float. When the system doesn't float as well, as in what happens when a car has gone a long time without brake servicing, or if the mounting brackets and/or pins weren't properly cleaned and lubricated during the previous service, not so much.
The piston still applies pressure to the one side. However, with the caliper not properly floating, less or in worst case almost no pressure is applied to the opposite pad. The brakes still slow and stop the car, but not nearly as efficiently as when things are properly serviced. This may be why your brakes seem to need "a lot of foot pressure" to stop the car. In the more extreme cases of this, your "piston side" pad will clearly be worn out but the non-piston-side will still have some life left in it.
Most "aftermarket performance" systems use opposed piston calipers to avoid this, as well as part of how they gain their "performance." They have even numbers of pistons on both sides of the caliper, that "oppose" each other. While the caliper still needs to "float," the opposed piston caliper always has pistons that push towards each other from opposing directions, rather than using the body of the caliper alone to apply braking force to a pistonless brake pad.
This system is not used by most auto makers on "ordinary" or even in many cases on luxury cars. Opposed piston calipers mean double the pistons, double the seals, and basically double the
cost. True "performance" cars may or may not have opposed piston brake calipers as factory fitment, depending on who is building them, and the like.
Back to you. You haven't had the brakes done "in a while," and you're not sure how good of a job was actually done the last time. From the sounds of things, you aren't really "hard" on the brakes. But you live in three states known for their salt air even if you try to avoid road salt, on top of the naturally corrosive nature of brake dust. So, there is a better than not chance that the calipers are hanging up just a little bit.
So, have the brakes done by a competent shop. Make sure they either machine or replace the rotors. With at least one warped enough to pulse the brake pedal, they don't have much of a choice, but some shops can be "interesting" to work with. Also, make sure that they inspect, clean, and
correctly lubricate all slide points on all four calipers. Competent shops generally don't need to be told, but...
@CuttingToolGuy posted while I was writing this. While his advice is good, it will apply more to if you decide to upgrade from "fresh" factory brakes to something better. Right now, your factory brakes are somewhere between stale and rancid.
Good luck.
