2000 Executive Series, less than 1100 miles, not sure what to do with it

TheNeck

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My dad just passed away last year and left me his "baby", his 2000 executive series, still brand new, with only 1000-1100 miles on it, he rarely drove it, he just loved the way it looked. He kept it in great shape, always in the garage.

So im not sure if i should start driving it, and maybe put 5000-10000 miles on it a year.

What do you guys think?
 
Welcome TheNeck,

Your car is designed to be driven, but if you are uncomfortable with that then sell it since a lot of people will pay extra for a very low mileage car. It will deteriorate if left unused since the fluids have a short life span so need to be changed even if you don't drive the car. Rubber parts like tires and belts and hoses will also deteriorate and at 14 years of age you may start to see cracking and dry rot.

Good luck.
 
thanks for you input

i agree a car is designed to be driven. :)

i know he got the oil change, but how often im not sure. I need to get it checked out and start driving it.
 
Sounds like a great car. if you have the garage space, I would probably store it for 10 more years or so as that car will surely gain much value with so little miles and the end of the timeless Town cars. Not worth it to drive it IMO. If you want a driver you can buy the same car with mileage much cheaper to use daily. It drives me crazy everytime I think about the low mileage 79 Formula I got cheap in the 90's or the old 80's z28 that now bring over 20k easy knowing that I sold these cars dirt cheap and 10 years later how much appreciation. Now, there are few cars that will be held for classics, who is gonna store a Korean or Chinese made car as a classic? Either way good luck with that car. I wish I had my dads old Lincoln.
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Welcome TheNeck,

Your car is designed to be driven, but if you are uncomfortable with that then sell it since a lot of people will pay extra for a very low mileage car. It will deteriorate if left unused since the fluids have a short life span so need to be changed even if you don't drive the car. Rubber parts like tires and belts and hoses will also deteriorate and at 14 years of age you may start to see cracking and dry rot.

Good luck.

Even if he drains the fluids and covers it?
 
Sorry for the loss of your dad.
That's great that he left you his Lincoln, though. I agree with the general consensus, I'd drive it. I wouldn't make a daily driver, but I would certainly take it for nice weekend cruises & let it stretch it's legs periodically. :)

Got any cool photos to share? :D
 
Even if he drains the fluids and covers it?

Hi zinctwentyone,

I have no experience with storing a car for 10 years and more unused. So my comments are more related to a car that sees occasional use.

Fluids deteriorate with age but don't get changed due to low mileage. Coolant has a shelf life in a vehicle or an opened container of no longer than the 3 to 5 year replacement period, beyond that it will start to eat the components from the inside. Oils are much more resilient but succumb to age related issues eventually. If there are no fluids in the car then you will have condensation and rust. Seals that are allowed to dry out usually deteriorate and leak.

Covering a vehicle with a non breathable cover is worse than no cover because moisture vapor will be drawn up under the cover and stay there.

Good luck.
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Sounds like a great car. if you have the garage space, I would probably store it for 10 more years or so as that car will surely gain much value with so little miles and the end of the timeless Town cars. Not worth it to drive it IMO. If you want a driver you can buy the same car with mileage much cheaper to use daily. It drives me crazy everytime I think about the low mileage 79 Formula I got cheap in the 90's or the old 80's z28 that now bring over 20k easy knowing that I sold these cars dirt cheap and 10 years later how much appreciation. Now, there are few cars that will be held for classics, who is gonna store a Korean or Chinese made car as a classic? Either way good luck with that car. I wish I had my dads old Lincoln.
sounds like a good idea, just not sure in 10 years how much of a classic this car will be though.

thanks everybody with the input. no sure what i am going to do exactly just yet.

also i will post some pics when i have a chance. he didn't have a car cover for it. so it has a lot of dust/dirt on it from just being in the garage.
 
Hi zinctwentyone,

I have no experience with storing a car for 10 years and more unused. So my comments are more related to a car that sees occasional use.

Fluids deteriorate with age but don't get changed due to low mileage. Coolant has a shelf life in a vehicle or an opened container of no longer than the 3 to 5 year replacement period, beyond that it will start to eat the components from the inside. Oils are much more resilient but succumb to age related issues eventually. If there are no fluids in the car then you will have condensation and rust. Seals that are allowed to dry out usually deteriorate and leak.

Covering a vehicle with a non breathable cover is worse than no cover because moisture vapor will be drawn up under the cover and stay there.

Good luck.

Thanks Town. I am really not familiar with storing cars either as much as I should have been. I find that I am having to buy bushings for the old 66 and rebuild the carb but knock on wood nothing too major, wires look good, engine compartment looks good. I was told that new gas with the ethanol will destroy gas tanks with rust these days. There has got to be a way since it is happening with these perfect classics showing up. Or maybe they are all restored? What a shame, I would want to store that car.
 
Change ALL the fluids, check the rubber items and drive it like you stole it. Cars are made to be driven, not to look at, IMO.

My Town Car is 22+ years old and the radiator hoses are like new and original (can see the FoMoCo P/N on them). Just have to keep good coolant in them and oil off of them.

New air springs may be in your future as well.
 
Change ALL the fluids, check the rubber items and drive it like you stole it. Cars are made to be driven, not to look at, IMO.

My Town Car is 22+ years old and the radiator hoses are like new and original (can see the FoMoCo P/N on them). Just have to keep good coolant in them and oil off of them.

New air springs may be in your future as well.
How can you tell if you need new air springs? the reason i ask, the rear of the car looked like a low rider, till i turned it on recently, in which it raised back up. before this i had not had any cars with air springs.
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My opinion is to get it working right, keep it, find a good way to store it if you can (do you have a garage?), and drive it.

Even if you change your mind later, you'll get more money for it after it's cleaned up and working, than you would by just selling it as is.

Reasons to keep:
1: It was your father's car. I tend to save/use many family items; I even bought my grandfather's house, and lots of small random tools from family. I think it would be nice to keep something of your father's around.

2: It's a very nice, comfortable car regardless. I'm not sure what kind of car you have now, and what you've heard about big American cars, but these cars are not nearly as hard to park or as bad on gas as people would have you believe. You'll probably get about the same fuel mileage as a medium sized SUV, but with far more comfort.

3: Even though I'm sure your father's car is beautiful, to be honest, it isn't worth all that much to sell it, at least in my opinion. The Town Car ran with nearly the same styling up until 2011, but with constant mechanical improvements. If someone wanted a really really nice Town Car and they had some money to spend, they would probably just buy a low-mile 2010 or 2011. I don't mean that to insult your car, just to be practical. Your car is definitely worth money, just not BIG money. That would make me rather keep it than sell it.

What I think you should do, whether you keep or sell:

1: Check all fluid levels before even trying to start it. (Transmission fluid is supposed to be checked with the car running, so you can't accurately check it with the car off. But just pull out the dipstick and make sure you have SOME fluid on it.)

2: If no one told you yet, you'll need a new battery. You might get lucky and be able to charge it and/or jump start the car, but it won't be reliable long-term. So just budget $75-100 for a new battery.

3: Get the oil changed as soon as possible. The transmission fluid and coolant could wait until you get the car up and on the road, but I wouldn't take a chance on the old oil. If you're a do-it-yourselfer, you might want to consider even changing the oil right there in the garage before you start it. (However, changing the oil with the car cold, you won't get all of the old oil out anyway. So you could change it once in the garage, drive it a couple hundred miles, then change it again with the car warmed up to be extra safe. It's cheap insurance.)

Personally, I would just make sure the oil level is full, then go ahead and start it up; the old oil should be good enough for the car to run for a few minutes and move it around. But that's just my opinion, and you may be more risk-averse than me. If you're really really worried, you could consider even having it towed to a mechanic and let them change the oil before starting it, but that'll cost you.

Regardless, when you first start it, expect a knocking noise for a few seconds as the oil travels around the internals of the engine to where it's supposed to go. But then if it doesn't start to run smoothly after 10 seconds or so, shut it off and figure out why before anything gets damaged.

4: I wouldn't scrub all that dust and dirt off with sponges or brushes. I'd try to get the majority of it off with careful use of a pressure washer before giving the car a regular wash, so the dirt won't scratch the paint as you scrub the car. You could use a pressure washer at home, or drive it to a coin-op car wash where they even have a pressure washer that sprays soap under pressure.

If you can't do that, at the bare minimum, remove as much dust as you can by just rinsing it with a garden hose, before any rubbing.

5: You're going to need to replace some parts from sitting, but I don't think you'll really know what parts they are until you get the car up and running and moving. I wouldn't go crazy spending all kinds of money replacing every random thing at first. Just do the battery and oil, get it running, let it idle in the driveway for a little while (without leaving the car unattended). If something starts to leak or make noise, figure out what it is.

6: It would be no surprise if it needs tires by now, but I'd suspect the original tires would be good enough to hold air and move the car around. Don't forget to put air in the spare tire and then check it in a week to make sure it's still holding air.

7: The brakes are certainly going to make grinding sounds and squeaks as you move the car around. Don't get scared----it's probably just surface rust on the rotors. (Rotors are the disks you can see looking through the wheels. If you look at any regularly-driven car they'll be shiny. Park the car for even a few days and they get a little rusty.) After you drive the car around a little bit, you'll see whether the brakes will clean up and work OK, or need some parts replaced. Just drive around the block and make a few stops, and they'll pretty much scrape themselves clean if they can.

8: After you get it running and moving you (or your mechanic) can make some decisions about replacing things like the serpentine belt, some/all radiator hoses, brake hoses, and things like that.

9: Don't be surprised if the air conditioner has slowly leaked out its refrigerant and doesn't work. Should be something like $100-200 to vacuum and recharge the system, and at that point you can see if it works, and if it has any major leaks or not.

All in all.......I'd figure on $1000 for battery, tires, and replacing all fluids. Could hit $2000 if you want/need to start replacing hoses, belts, and brakes.

By the way, I'm not sure if you're handy with cars or not, but if you want to learn, this is the right car. They're straightforward to work on, there's lots of information available, and parts are cheap. Go to autozone.com and look up prices on things like brake rotors, belts, and so forth. You could save LOTS of money doing some or all of these things yourself.

I hope I didn't say too much or too little.........but seriously, it's worth more up and running than sitting there dead and dirty. So get it going no matter what; it won't cost much to do the very basics like the oil change, battery, and a quick wash. At that point, drive it a little and see if you like it, and see what else it needs and what it will cost. You will get a better price, and more-interested buyers if the car looks good and the buyer can at least hear it run and move it up and down the driveway.

Also, another strategy might be to get it fixed up, put it for sale at a way-too-high price, and see what happens. If it sells, you get some good money. If no one wants to pay, keep it and drive it.

And sorry to hear about your father.
 
I Agree with keeping it, and DRIVING IT! Especially since it was Dad's car...
 
If you do decide to sell it now or later, the best place to sell a car like that is Hemmings as it will reach a much broader buyer base for a car with almost no miles and may even get sold to an international buyer. I am glad to see I am not the only one that said to keep it and store it as that is exactly what I would do.
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thanks guys for all your input. I took the car this morning to get new tires, new hoses/belts, oil change, new brake fluid, new transmission fluid, and a new battery.

for now im going to start using the car, put some miles on it, and go from their. currently i drive a 2006 chrysler 300.

hopefully i will post some pics later today.
 
I assume the hoses will include a cooling system flush and new coolant.

You might consider a power steering fluid flush and a differential lube change as well if you wallet is thick enough.

Good luck and enjoy.
 
I assume the hoses will include a cooling system flush and new coolant.

You might consider a power steering fluid flush and a differential lube change as well if you wallet is thick enough.

Good luck and enjoy.
yes a cooling system flush and new coolant

yes about the differential lube change

but i didnt think about the power steering fluid flush, you think that could be a problem?
 
Hi TheNeck,

Yes power steering too, just like all the fluids it will deteriorate. It will get dirty and there will be particles in suspension.

Good luck.
 
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