Town Car Dash removal for actuator replacement

[Town]

This set of procedures is intended to help replace the panel/defrost and floor mode door actuators (small electric motors with a position sensing capability) as a result of an EATC self test with codes 1263 and 1264 respectively on a 2007 model Town Car. This should be the same for the 2003 and up models, but there may be variations. These models use 5 electronic actuators, but only the panel/defrost and floor mode door actuators need the dash to be removed for replacement. The 2 blend door actuators and the air inlet mode door actuator can be replaced easily without removing the dash. I have included all the actuator replacement procedures in the event that you may want to do all 5 at the same time and be done with them.

So the place to start is the confirmation of the panel/defrost and floor mode door actuator failures. The two mode door actuators control the air flow through the vent ducts into the cabin, so by manually selecting the EATC air flow to the ducts the problems can be quickly confirmed. The first attachment gives a description of the airflow in the last 3 pages to help confirm a problem or not.

The battery negative terminal must be removed for at least 1 minute, but 5 is better, to de-power the air bag systems.

I have combined some of the 13 procedures into groups in order to keep to 5 attachments and therefore one post. The second attachment identifies all 5 actuators and gives their replacement procedures. This is provided to help with the location of the actuators when replacing all 5 with the dash removed. The panel/defrost and floor mode door actuator replacement procedures in the beginning of the second attachment lead to the third attachment and the fourth attachments and then to the combined Instrument Panel procedures in attachment 5.

The Instrument Panel appears to be removed with the upper steering column and steering wheel attached so it is going to be very heavy. This is quite different to the procedures for the 2002 model and earlier.

Good luck.

 

[todhog]

Hey, I need to remove my dash for the mode actuator replacement. Do I really have to remove the steering column? I saw a video where the guy had the dash pulled back just enough to get at the upper plenum. Is that a possibility?

Todd

 

[wimpy]

Town, I continue to be amazed at your dedication @ helping the membership.

Kudos to you.

 

[todhog]

Answered my own question, no it not.

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[Cam3003TC]

I'm sorry, I know this is an old thread; but are these dash removal files still available?

 

[Town]

Welcome to the Forum.

Yes the files have been uploaded to the forum and are available. When you click on the file you want, it downloads to your computer "Downloads" folder. Have you tried that?

If you still have trouble then open a Thread in this Forum: https://lincolnforums.com/forums/forums/17-Site-News-Feedback-Suggestions where Sal the site owner will be able to help you.

Good luck.

 

[Lord Nelson]

I just went to the dealer because I was getting low air flow and warmer air from the Driver side upper vents. I think the rear seat vents are getting the same This is what he wrote on the estimate of $1444 plus tax: performed DIAG DTC B1264 B1263 B2266 AND B2267. RECOMMEND REPLACING BLEND DOOR ACTUATORS AND MODE DOOR ACTUATORS. To me if I just replaced the LH temperature blend door actuator it would solve the problem.

 

[Town]

I just went to the dealer because I was getting low air flow and warmer air from the Driver side upper vents. I think the rear seat vents are getting the same This is what he wrote on the estimate of $1444 plus tax: performed DIAG DTC B1264 B1263 B2266 AND B2267. RECOMMEND REPLACING BLEND DOOR ACTUATORS AND MODE DOOR ACTUATORS. To me if I just replaced the LH temperature blend door actuator it would solve the problem.

Welcome to the Forum.

The last 2 codes are for both blend doors. The first two are for floor and panel/defrost doors. You should select EATC floor control and see if the air flow comes out only to the floor. Then select defrost and air should come out only to the windshield defrost vents. Then select the panel and air should only come out the panel vents. If this is the case then the two mode door actuators are working fine and don't need replacing, so the dash does not need to be removed. The driver and passenger air temperatures should be the same at the same temperature. If they are then the actuators don't need replacement. If the temperatures are not the same then replace the erroneous one. We have the procedures for both blend doors.

You can run the EATC Self Test yourself the procedure in in this Tech forum for the Town Car.

Good luck.

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[Town]

Here is the procedure to run the EATC self test: Town Car EATC Self test see post #13 for the 2003 and up models test.

The procedures for replacing the blend door actuators for the 2003 and up models is here: Town Car HVAC blend door actuator replacement see post #11. Both the blend doors can be replaced without removing the dash.

Good luck.

 

[Lord Nelson]

Thanks for the info. When I do the panel and floor or the floor it comes out the right places except the left side is warmer so I'm quessing it's the LH blend door so I will replace that one first then see what I got. In reading the instructions for replacement, the first step is to remove the LH lower instrument panel insulator. What is that? There are no pictures or other references to this part. Also where would I find the part number for this actuator?

 

[Town]

I don't know specifically. It should be a rubber component to eliminate vibrations for the instrument panel mount. It is probably in the way of removing the LCM. I don't remember specifically what it looks like.

RockAuto is usually a good source for parts and part numbers.

Good luck.

 

[Lord Nelson]

I don't know specifically. It should be a rubber component to eliminate vibrations for the instrument panel mount. It is probably in the way of removing the LCM. I don't remember specifically what it looks like.

RockAuto is usually a good source for parts and part numbers.

Good luck.

The part number was 3W1H-19E616-AA. Instead of waiting for the mail I called the dealer he said it was replaced by 9W1Z-19E616-A, which costs 71 plus tax and he had it in stock. There was nothing in the way for removing the LCM. I disconnected the battery before starting. I could not get the 2 rear wire plugs out of the LCM so I removed the metal support that holds it up by sliding the LCM back so I could get access to the 2 bolts that hold it up. That allowed the LCM to drop enough to get at the actuator. I put the new actuator in and it's working fine so far. Thanks again for the info.

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[Lord Nelson]

My happiness was short lived. I'm now not getting any air flow out the panel vents so I guess the defrost/ panel door actuator failed.

 

[Town]

My happiness was short lived. I'm now not getting any air flow out the panel vents so I guess the defrost/ panel door actuator failed.

If you are getting full air flow to the defroster then you are right that the panel/defrost actuator has failed. But if you are getting full flow to the floor or part to floor and part to defrost then the floor/defrost actuator has failed (it has 3 positions full floor, part floor and full defrost). In any case the dash has to come out to replace either so usually both actuators are replaced while the dash is out.

Did you run an EATC self test?

 

[Lord Nelson]

No but I'm getting full flow to the defroster so it's the panel/defrost. I found a detailed instruction on removing the dash to do this. After reviewing it I decided it's too much. I use the Lincoln and my wife uses our Altima so I can't justify spending 1400 to get it fixed. I ordered some small 12 volt fans that I'll mount on the dash to direct the defrost flow, lol. Here's the link. Go to the bottom of the page to see the next step: Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car A/C Does Not Blow Out Vents

 

[77Towncar]

Removing the dash to replace the actuators is not as big of or bad of job as you would think. If you have worked on cars before you should have no problem competing the job.

Took me about two and a half hours to remove the steering column and dash, another half hour to replace both actuators and another hour and a half to put everything back together.

Sparkey's instructions were very helpful
Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car Removing The Steering Column
Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car, Dash Removal Part 1
Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car Dash Removal Part 2
Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car HVAC Actuator Replacement

I didn't remove the dash from the car. After getting the dash loose I rested the dash on the floor against the front seat and then removed the mode housing from the dash. By doing this I didn't need to unclip the shift cable from the dash (still need to unhook the shift cable from the steering column before removing it) and a few other things that would need to be unhooked to remove the dash completely from the car.

Both actuators at the local parts store cost $75.00 and were Motorcraft brand. I would recommend buying Motorcraft actuators and not some cheap aftermarket brand, unless you want to replace the actuators again in the near future.

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[Town]

Removing the dash to replace the actuators is not as big of or bad of job as you would think. If you have worked on cars before you should have no problem competing the job.

Took me about two and a half hours to remove the steering column and dash, another half hour to replace both actuators and another hour and a half to put everything back together.
...
Both actuators at the local parts store cost $75.00 and were Motorcraft brand. I would recommend buying Motorcraft actuators and not some cheap aftermarket brand, unless you want to replace the actuators again in the near future.

Welcome to the Forum.

Pictures help a lot in procedures, so thanks for the links.

Glad everything worked out well for you.

 

[Lord Nelson]

Removing the dash to replace the actuators is not as big of or bad of job as you would think. If you have worked on cars before you should have no problem competing the job.

Took me about two and a half hours to remove the steering column and dash, another half hour to replace both actuators and another hour and a half to put everything back together.

Sparkey's instructions were very helpful
Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car Removing The Steering Column
Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car, Dash Removal Part 1
Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car Dash Removal Part 2
Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car HVAC Actuator Replacement

I didn't remove the dash from the car. After getting the dash loose I rested the dash on the floor against the front seat and then removed the mode housing from the dash. By doing this I didn't need to unclip the shift cable from the dash (still need to unhook the shift cable from the steering column before removing it) and a few other things that would need to be unhooked to remove the dash completely from the car.

Both actuators at the local parts store cost $75.00 and were Motorcraft brand. I would recommend buying Motorcraft actuators and not some cheap aftermarket brand, unless you want to replace the actuators again in the near future.

Thanks for the advice. The panel vent is currently working so I am not going to touch it until the hot weather is done, then I may think again about what you said and decide about doing it.

 

[trsmith11]

Removing the dash to replace the actuators is not as big of or bad of job as you would think. If you have worked on cars before you should have no problem competing the job.

Took me about two and a half hours to remove the steering column and dash, another half hour to replace both actuators and another hour and a half to put everything back together.

Sparkey's instructions were very helpful
Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car Removing The Steering Column
Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car, Dash Removal Part 1
Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car Dash Removal Part 2
Sparky's Answers - 2007 Lincoln Town Car HVAC Actuator Replacement

I didn't remove the dash from the car. After getting the dash loose I rested the dash on the floor against the front seat and then removed the mode housing from the dash. By doing this I didn't need to unclip the shift cable from the dash (still need to unhook the shift cable from the steering column before removing it) and a few other things that would need to be unhooked to remove the dash completely from the car.

Both actuators at the local parts store cost $75.00 and were Motorcraft brand. I would recommend buying Motorcraft actuators and not some cheap aftermarket brand, unless you want to replace the actuators again in the near future.

Well I did it!! Is a big job but no special tools required just a lot of time and work. Thank you very much for Sparky's Answers. Don't know if I could have done it with out his step by step instructions. His instructions were spot on down to each and very bolt and screw. Everything works perfect. I appreciate why a garage charges so much to do it as it is a big job. The dash is a little heavy for one person so I was able to carefully set it on the front seat so did not remove it from the car. Thanks to everyone for all the good information provided.

 

[Lord Nelson]

I found out something interesting about the actuators. They fail to operate because the contact to change position no longer make contact. I drove on a cobblestone street for a block and the actuator changed position because the agitation cause the contacts to work.