Putting her back together

bonitamechanica

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Hi all, I posted before with some questions about my intake manifold replacement. Here's a catch-up, and my current questions.
2002 LTC, 4.6L V8, name: Esmeralda

I threw a code P0305 and diagnosed a coolant leak from the manifold/t-stat housing. I decided to do the repair work myself, seeing as how I'm broke as an egg yolk and I was getting estimates far far higher than what I could afford.

I replaced the intake manifold, thermostat, CoPs, spark plugs, fuel injector O-rings and pintle caps, a couple of hoses, etc. And of course in the process of those replacements, I got to uninstall and reinstall the alternator and serp belt and fuel lines and rail and crash bracket and all the fun stuff.

I finally thought I had her put back together. Tried to start her up, and she made this terrible, awful, no good racket of a noise in response.

So I went hunting under the hood for an easy answer, and I'm afraid that I won't find one. 😭

Here's the kicker: I've never worked on cars before. I have no idea what I'm doing. I have a Haynes, and thank the good Lord for the internet. It's been tough, tho. I don't even know what things are called or how to describe things, so it's awfully difficult to know what to search for or what questions to ask. I'm learning, tho.

So I did find one obvious issue: I had two completely disconnected lines in the rear pass corner. Both have the little black nipple/cup end. There's the green vacuum line I got correctly onto the EGR, and the red one I got back onto the fuel rail. Then there is another, longer red one that I think is supposed to connect to the Evap canister purge valve? But I don't know what/where that is. And then there's a tiny short black one with the same connector at the end, and it's in the very very back, underneath the EGR tube. I have no idea where that goes.

Help??
 

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wolf_walker

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Don't think either of those would create bad noises trying to start it up.
Worst case scenario is something dropped down the intake ports into the engine.
Or maybe the serpentine belt is routed incorrectly? You could pull the belt
and start it, briefly, to see. If it's something fallen into the engine banging around,
I'm afraid that's a super bad day.
 

bonitamechanica

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I figured out the vacuum lines, and I turned the belt with my breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley. I tried to start her up and she sounded better than the first time, so maybe she just needs some encouragement.

I was really careful during the uninstall and install. Stuffed blue shop towels into all the ports, etc. Used an air compressor to get rid of all the loose grime and debris. I hope I hope I hope that she's okay.

The first time she sounded kinda like this:

Just now she sounds like this:

Thoughts?
 

LTC1997

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That hesitancy to start reminds me very much of my buddy trying to start his Kawasaki dragster after getting a couple of the spark plug wires reversed.

And with your engine running, I would expect it to sound more than rough as a couple of it's eight pistons are perhaps trying to turn the engine backwards in a losing battle against the majority.

Please double-check that all of the spark plug wires and fuel injector plugs are going to the right holes (cylinders).

Check also for the mass airflow sensor possibly left unplugged, and note that the plug going onto the fuel rail stud is supposed to be a wire and not a hose.

I'm thinking that this has to be a case of something not connected (properly) versus any sort of mechanical problem, and if you have no fuel leaks there is little to be wrong with the fuel rail or injectors.

Also note that there should be hose and belt routing diagrams in the under-hood area for your convenience.
Did you re-activate the fuel pump circuit after doing this work?
Do you recall disconnecting any wires or hoses near the rear of the engine that might be hard to see?

I always rely on BFS when doing subsequent diagnosis (Bright Flashlight Scrutiny).

Since this was a leaking manifold, and since removing the thermostat housing might have leaked some coolant, did all of the plug wells get blown out with compressed air before the wires/coils were refitted to the plugs?
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bonitamechanica

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I figured it out!

You know on the front of the mani, where the coolant temp sender is on the left? And then the 02 LTC has a CHT down in the cylinder bank beneath the mani?

Well that leaves something missing in the new mani, that didn't exist in the old one. A space for the coolent temp sensor, which my car doesn't need, didn't have, and therefore I didn't take it off the old one (bc it didn't exist) to put into the new one.

Yeah. She turned on, and coolant sprayed up and out of that hole next to the therm housing.

I plugged it up and now? .....


(Old mani and new mani pics attached.... See? No hole in the old mani. 🤷)
 

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LTC1997

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Congrat's on the repair, makes me feel lucky that the cheapest $110 manifold I could buy came to me with the plug(s) already fitted in the right places for my install! I only struggled with the O-rings un-seating and with the plastic flashing I had to pull out of it.

My own screw-ups were limited to over-compressing the thermostat O-ring and putting original bolts into un-threaded plastic holes, which I seem to have made it past.

I'm hoping that no coolant found it's way into any of your freshly blown-out spark plug wells(?).

Expect your coolant level to drop a bit each of the first couple of times you drive it, had me worried for a couple days but it finally stabilized. Any over-fill of the degas tank/reservoir supposedly causes a moderate over-pressurizing of the cooling system each time that you drive, since the air space allows the coolant to expand as it's heated.

I don't know if you cycled the fuel pump a few times before first attempting to start the car after the work, but might have just been air in the system that kept it from roaring to life on the first few tries.

Remember to secure the gas cap if you had it vented while you worked on it(?).

Cheers!
 

bonitamechanica

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f$%k me, guys. I just took her to the grocery store and then to get some gas, and when I returned from paying, I was greeted with this.

I drove Esme to a store to get more coolant, and after shutting the car off, I find myself listening to a very obvious gurgling from under the hood. And steam coming out from under.

What the hell do I do now? 😭20190520_124110.jpg20190520_124101.jpg
 

LTC1997

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All I can say is that the good news is that these 4.6 engines seem to tolerate coolant loss far better than most others.

Back to looking for the origin of this new leak, that's enough coolant that the leak shouldn't be hard to find.

Nothing comes to mind as to a most-likely cause, though seems probably something that was just worked on.

Should have gone to church yesterday?
 

bonitamechanica

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Renting the cooling system pressure tester from the local auto store is it going to run almost $300 to rent it for just the 10 minutes I'll need it. So I took a picture of the underside of the car, crawled under there without jacking it up or anything, took a picture.... and I have no idea what I'm looking at. so help me out here?
 

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LTC1997

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I was thinking that it would likely be visible from under the hood, around each of the areas worked on.

I would use a bright flashlight to be able to see around things in the shadows.

Mine is a '97, so sorry I can't be more specific, detail-wise.

Before I rented a pressure-tester I would probably refill it with the heater hose disconnected to bleed out the air, then reconnect that hose and fill up the system the rest of the way. With the engine warm and running I would think that the coolant leak location would present itself.

Have you checked under the hood for anything obvious?

How far and how many times have you driven it since the work was done? Did the cooling system get fully refilled after?
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