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Loss of power and brake lights wont turn off after flat tire

Emtrod

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Yesterday on my way to work the passenger front tire blew out but there was no damage to the inside fender or body. When I finally got on the road, my car started losing power and I would had to release the gas pedal and re-engage it for it to work. After a few mins of driving it would start doing the same and the car would not accelerate no matter how much I pressed the pedal.
I finally made it to work and and I noticed my brake lights stayed on and would not turn off unless I unplugged the battery. The break lights didn’t work at all when I pressed the brake. Also cruise control wouldn’t work.
No check engine light.
Any tips before I take it to the dealer? I’m a college student and I’m broke and can’t afford the dealer right now.
2014 MKZ 2.0. 73k miles.
 
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LTC1997

Member
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It sounds like the flat tire somehow FUBAR'd the ABS or the master cylinder.
Somehow the fluid pressure isn't venting when the pedal is released.
Is the pedal itself returning normally when you take your foot off?

Any pressure in the brake line signals the cruise control to shut off.

This condition sound quite serious in terms of the brake system not working properly, so I would not drive it until this can be diagnosed.

I would remove the wheel again and examine the wheel well area where the blow out occurred, perhaps the brake line is damaged/kinked and so holding pressure on the wheel cylinder (caliper). I'm guessing this could cause the wheel to be braked, and as the caliper and fluid heats up the wheel turns slightly slower, causing the ABS/TC to act up and possibly pressurize the other brake lines.
Examine the brake line thoroughly!
 

Emtrod

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It sounds like the flat tire somehow FUBAR'd the ABS or the master cylinder.
Somehow the fluid pressure isn't venting when the pedal is released.
Is the pedal itself returning normally when you take your foot off?
E-brake worked fine.

Any pressure in the brake line signals the cruise control to shut off.

This condition sound quite serious in terms of the brake system not working properly, so I would not drive it until this can be diagnosed.

I would remove the wheel again and examine the wheel well area where the blow out occurred, perhaps the brake line is damaged/kinked and so holding pressure on the wheel cylinder (caliper). I'm guessing this could cause the wheel to be braked, and as the caliper and fluid heats up the wheel turns slightly slower, causing the ABS/TC to act up and possibly pressurize the other brake lines.
Examine the brake line thoroughly!
Thanks for the reply, I examined the brake line and I didn’t see any damage, kinks or leaks. But will check again just to make sure and maybe bleed the brake lines to see if it may be the problem.
The pedal does return to normal and it brakes fine, I didn’t notice any changes in the braking. The MPG is pretty normal like always at 30 mpg. Strangely no lights about the ABS/TC. It did say that hill assist was not available?
Will the brake line problem cause the loss of power?
 
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LTC1997

Member
135
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I didn't understand that the car was still drivable, so wondering if the cut in power is still happening(?).

I would diagnose the brake light switch issue first to perhaps rule out several other possibilities.

I'm not too familiar with hill-assist, does that also have to do with the brakes, or the parking brake?

A loss of power could be the engine operating in "limp home" mode because of some electronic issue. Might have nothing to do with the blow-out.
______________________________
 

Emtrod

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I didn't understand that the car was still drivable, so wondering if the cut in power is still happening(?).

I would diagnose the brake light switch issue first to perhaps rule out several other possibilities.

I'm not too familiar with hill-assist, does that also have to do with the brakes, or the parking brake?

A loss of power could be the engine operating in "limp home" mode because of some electronic issue. Might have nothing to do with the blow-out.
Yea it drives, but it will gradually start loosing power and I would have to release the gas and press it again for it to go again but it will do it again after a few mins.
The issue with the loss of power in the engine happened right after the blowout.
 
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LTC1997

Member
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I've got to say, the symptoms don't seem to align and might be only coincidental to the blowout occurrence.
Has the car's servicing perhaps been long neglected?
 

Emtrod

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I've got to say, the symptoms don't seem to align and might be only coincidental to the blowout occurrence.
Has the car's servicing perhaps been long neglected?
No, I’ve been doing regular oil changes and taken it to ford a few times to be serviced. It always comes back with everything working fine. I’m just at a loss here because I don’t know how the engine acting up and the brake lights staying on have anything to do with the blowout. It’s ridiculous. I checked the fuses and they all seemed fine.
 

Emtrod

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Went to oreillys to see if they could pull a code and nothing came up. While he was trying to pull the code, I noticed that my car started without having to press the brake pedal. I told him that it wasn’t possible to start the car without having to press the brake. He asked if my brake lights stayed on and I told him they were. He got under the brake pedal and found the rubber brake switch bushing lying around in the little box. The guy tested the switch and the brake lights shut off.
I pulled back the brake pedal with my foot and the car didn’t start. On my way back home I pulled the brake pedal on a back road while driving and the car worked fine.
Kinda ridiculous a little rubber piece can give you that much trouble. But you were right it was the light switch. I downloaded the service manual and one of the reasons for the engine losing power was the brake light switch 🤦🏾‍♂️. Thank you for everything.


Any tips on how to replace it? I’m not too familiar with this but with the right guidance I can do things the right way. I still have the bushing but I’m going to for tomorrow to buy one.
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LTC1997

Member
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I'm not familiar with your model/year of car. Glad it's not serious though!

I had the brake warning light stay on on my Toyota recently, turned out to be the pkg brake pedal return switch and not the switch on the reservoir that is easier to get to (both switches trigger the same dash light). I wiggled it into the off state and have just been avoiding using the pkg brake ever since.
 
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Emtrod

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Went to ford today to see if they had the brake switch bushing and they said they didn’t. Hell they didn’t even know what I was talking about. They said that I had to buy the whole brake assembly. Luckily one of the advanced auto parts reps was there and found the piece on their website.
I bought one from Oreillys that looked like a generic one and I had to shave it down to fit the hole. Let me tell you, what a pain in the ass that was.
Brake lights are working fine now and the car is working like new again.
Amazing what a little piece of plastic can do to a car.
 

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