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Hot AC, sometimes 50/50


New member
04 LS V-8 power everything
I had check parking break messages for a month. Then one afternoon I caught the scent like a burning parking brake but only inside the car.
I immediately pulled over and checked the wheels for smell and heat and found neither anywhere.
After that the heater didn't turn on at all, the panel was dead. A week later the battery died inexplicably.
I just got around to working on it. Charged the battery and it started right up. Pulled the positive terminal to make sure it was charging, and no problems there.
Then I tried the AC and it was blowing super hot no matter what. I checked every fuse under the hood and in the trunk and I replaced the number 8 relay for the AC. No luck.
Did more reading about the combined symptoms and found out that the dccv can throw fantom codes for parking brake and positrack. So I drained the coolant and replaced the dccv, checked all fittings, and put in new vc7b motorcraft coolant 50/50. I've bleed the coolant twice now but I'm still getting codes from the climate self test.
Sometimes I get a bit of AC from the driver's side, but the passenger's side is always hot, except when I first put the temp on 90 on both to bleed the coolant for the first time. Then both sides blew very cool for about 5 minutes.
Please help, it's hot out here.



From what I've heard you should only replace the DCCV with Motorcraft part. Others fail fairly quickly or don't work right.
There is NO blend door......that is why the dccv is so critical.
There is a bad problem with the drains on the moonroof pulling loose and drowning the FEM(front electronic module forward of the driver door. When this happens,you'll usually see a water stain on the A pillar moulding and maybe water in the little storage compartment on the door.


New member
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the dccv connecting harness?
I'd like to see if I'm getting proper voltage to both solenoids. Driver's appears to work but not the passengers.


New member
Sounds like Ford product is the problem so go with Aftermarket and start off with What I heard
I went with aftermarket Jaguar part. Heard the quality was a bit better.
Still checking the balance in the degas bottle which is dropping a bit after each cooling. Guess bubbles are still being purged. Still topping off, pressurizing, and bleeding every day after it cools. It's only taking an ounce or two as a time.


There is a specific bleed procedure for the LS in the shop manual. Very specific.

Here's a gift:
SECTION 303-03: Engine Cooling
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual​
Procedure revision date: 06/24/2005​
Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding Printable View (93 KB)

Special Tool(s)


WARNING: Never remove the pressure relief cap while the engine is operating or when the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the cooling system or engine or personal injury. To avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the degas bottle when removing the pressure relief cap, wait until the engine has cooled, then wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and remove the pressure relief cap.

CAUTION: The coolant must be recovered in a suitable, clean container for reuse. If the coolant is contaminated it must be recycled or disposed of correctly.

CAUTION: Care must be taken to make sure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

CAUTION: Vehicle cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in California, Oregon and New Mexico VC-7-B, in Canada CVC-7-A) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Always fill the cooling system with the same coolant that is present in the system. Do not mix coolant types.

  1. Wrap a thick cloth around the coolant pressure relief cap on the degas bottle. Slowly turn the cap counterclockwise (left) until the pressure begins to release. When the pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.

  1. NOTE: Less than 80% of coolant can be recovered with the engine in the vehicle. Dirty, rusty or contaminated coolant requires replacement.
    Place a suitable container below the radiator draincock. If equipped, disconnect the coolant return hose at the oil cooler.
    • Close the radiator draincock when finished.

Filling and Bleeding With RADKITPLUS

  1. Using the special tool, install the RADKITPLUS and follow the RADKITPLUS manufacturer's instructions to fill and bleed the cooling system.

Filling and Bleeding Without RADKITPLUS

WARNING: Do not open the cooling system while it is hot or the engine is running. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury.

CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle.

When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and distilled water.

To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:

  • Add Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in California, Oregon and New Mexico VC-7-B, in Canada CVC-7-A) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Use the same coolant that was drained from the cooling system. Do not mix coolant types.
  • Do not add Motorcraft Speciality Orange Engine Coolant VC-2 meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D (orange color). Mixing coolants can degrade the coolant's corrosion protection.
  • Do not add alcohol, methanol, brine or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing.
  • Do not mix recycled coolant unless it meets the requirements of Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1. Not all coolant recycling processes meet these Ford specifications. Use of such coolants can harm the engine and cooling system components.

  1. Remove the engine fill cap.

  1. Open the heater air bleed.

  1. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.

  1. Install the degas bottle cap.
CAUTION: Care must be taken to make sure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

  1. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.

  1. Install the engine fill cap.
    • Install the engine fill cap until contact is made and then tighten an additional 45 degrees (1/8 turn).

  1. NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
    Start the engine and turn the heater to the defrost (90°F) position.

  1. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant escapes during engine idle.

  1. Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.

  1. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any trapped air and close again.

  1. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.

  1. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.

  1. Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F) and allow the vehicle to idle for 2 minutes.

  1. Shut the engine off and allow to cool.

  1. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.
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