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Continental wheel nut torque requirement

Town

Senior Member
3,607
11
38
Ottawa Ontario Canada
Thread starter #1
The Owner's Manual for the 2017 Lincoln Continental lists the wheel stud as M14x1.5 and the torque setting as 162 ft/lbs. That is a lot higher torque than I was expecting since my Town Car only requires 100 ft/lbs. It turns out to be a common torque for M14 studs which are 0.55" in diameter and compares to 9/16" studs which are 0.56" in diameter. So many of the larger US vehicles have torque settings of 150 ft/lbs and for work trucks where 5/8" is a common size the torque setting can be over 200 ft/lbs.

I think the 162 ft/lbs of torque will need a long wrench in the trunk for emergencies and a large torque wrench at home. Some anti-seize on the threads might be a good idea too so that corrosion does not increase the torque requirement. The extract from my Owner's Manual is as follows:

"TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Wheel Lug Nut Torque Specifications

WARNING
When installing a wheel, always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign materials present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the
surface of the wheel hub, brake drum or brake disc that contacts the wheel. Make sure that any fasteners that attach the rotor to the
hub are secured so they do not interfere with the mounting surfaces of the wheel. Installing wheels without correct metal-to-metal contact at
the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the wheel nuts to loosen and the wheel to come off while your vehicle is in motion, resulting in loss
of control.

* Bolt size M14 x 1.5 * Torque in Ib-ft (Nm)162 lb.ft (220 Nm)

Torque specifications are for nut and bolt threads free of dirt and rust. Use only Ford recommended replacement fasteners.
Retighten the lug nuts to the specified torque within 100 miles (160 kilometers) after any wheel disturbance (such as tire rotation, changing a
flat tire, wheel removal).

Page 367"


Good luck.
 
#3
I once wondered why a neighbor couldn't change his Ford Expedition's flat tire. After I purchased my Navigator, I found out why. It required 150 foot pounds of torque! Does FoMoCo really think that anyone could change a tire, on the road, with the factory tool? I had to use a breaker bar WITH my floor jack handle to remove the lug nuts! Currently my lug nuts are set to 130 pounds as that's easier to remove. For the last 3 years, I've had no issues with the nuts loosening. I asked in these forums and other Lincoln sites as no one could offer an answer. The dealerships do not tighten them to 150. When they replaced a leaking R/F strut, the nuts were set to around 100--too loose--reset to 135.

Three years ago, I applied a light coating of anti-seize compound to avoid rust, etc. Things don't really rust in AZ, they dry out. I carry a HD compressor & flat repair kit to get me to a service station IF I had a flat. Also carry a breaker bar & 4' pipe if I must remove a wheel in a remote location. I remember my 1990 Ford E-250 Club Wagon did not have the high torque on the lugs. I seem to remember there were more lugs nuts than 6.

For your Continental, 162 ft pounds of torque will be interesting at service time. Will they or won't they re-tighten them to 162? So far, for any warranty work, my lugs were not near specs. Back in 1970, I almost lost a tire and body damage when a tire was loose. I felt it, pulled over and found the lugs loose. The dealership replaced the wheel, all studs & lug nuts due to their error. Since then, I always check the lug nuts on any vehicle I purchase or have service. The only place that really uses a torque wrench is COSTCO.

And of course, you'll be able to remove your lug nuts with the factory tool! I recommend a breaker bar and 4' section of pipe.
 

Town

Senior Member
3,607
11
38
Ottawa Ontario Canada
Thread starter #4
.....
Three years ago, I applied a light coating of anti-seize compound to avoid rust, etc. Things don't really rust in AZ, they dry out. I carry a HD compressor & flat repair kit to get me to a service station IF I had a flat. ..
......
I think Pasadena Lady has a better and cheaper solution for you as follows:

I don't think I'll need a long wrench in my trunk. If I need a tire change I'll go to the Ford Lincoln dealer. If a problem occurs on the roadway, I'll call AAA!
My son has the Chrysler tire repair in a can (no spare wheel on his 2016 van) and used it once, after which the tire had to be cleaned out and a new repair in a can product purchased. That is a lot of money to spend.

When a wheel is mounted and torqued up to spec it must be re-checked for torque after driving for 100 kilometers (62 miles) in order to confirm the nuts have not loosened (and they often have in my experience). The distance has reduced over the years, but it was always the responsibility of the user to re-torque or take it back to the shop for them to re-torque. It says this right on the bill to cover all circumstances where a wheel is removed.

Good luck.
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#5
I don't think I'll need a long wrench in my trunk. If I need a tire change I'll go to the Ford Lincoln dealer. If a problem occurs on the roadway, I'll call AAA!
Thanks Town but not in my area: Maybe that will work for you but in my remote areas, you're on your own. AAA would take hours to arrive. Therefore a HD air compressor & flat repair kit will save the tire and wheel vs driving it to a Dealership. I would have the tire repaired ASAP or if required I would change it.
 
#6
My son has the Chrysler tire repair in a can (no spare wheel on his 2016 van) and used it once, after which the tire had to be cleaned out and a new repair in a can product purchased. That is a lot of money to spend.

When a wheel is mounted and torqued up to spec it must be re-checked for torque after driving for 100 kilometers (62 miles) in order to confirm the nuts have not loosened (and they often have in my experience). The distance has reduced over the years, but it was always the responsibility of the user to re-torque or take it back to the shop for them to re-torque. It says this right on the bill to cover all circumstances where a wheel is removed.

Good luck.
In my wife's MKZH, I installed the correct spare tire & the same HD air compressor & repair kit. Those flat fix cans are very costly to use---it states--safe for TPMS but like all claims, maybe not.

I recheck my lug nuts and never found one to loosen up---going back to 1970. Maybe that's because I used a torque wrench when installing them in the correct sequence? That issue in 1970 happened less than 50 miles from the Dealership. They knew a mistake took place but THAT left a lasting impression of lug nut torque. I wonder how many owners actually have their lug nuts checked after 50+ miles? I would guess the same number that checks their tire pressure. In my area, Summer is coming as noticed by scraps of tire rubber on the roads. Soon I'll see a car with a donut spare going 80 MPH! Good luck driving near them!
 

1BlinkGone

Junior Member
14
0
0
#8
Why not get RUNFLATs? You could get to a dealer easily and not need AAA. Just a thought!
Won't need any special wrenches , etc.
Runflats have their limitations, are VERY expensive, and also offer a poor ride. Only the individual can determine if they are worth the marked decrease in ride quality, and TALL prices. IMO, YMMV, etc...
______________________________
 

Pasadena Lady

Senior Member
340
0
16
Pennsylvania
#9
Runflats have their limitations, are VERY expensive, and also offer a poor ride. Only the individual can determine if they are worth the marked decrease in ride quality, and TALL prices. IMO, YMMV, etc...
AFAICR my runflats on a previous car were NOT a poor ride. They saved me once from a tire problem when I had to get somewhere and could not stop to fix my flat tire. I rode on it for almost 50 miles before I could take care of it. Yes, they are expensive tires. The only problem I had was the lack of tire mileage that I got from them since they were summer only tires. After the second set of tires, I replaced them with non-runflats.
 
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#10
My "Select" has the 20" wheels. Needed Wheel Locks so I ordered a set from McGard. Although they fit, they stuck out a half inch beyond the stock lug nuts. Sent them back. Phoned Gorilla products. They have wheel locks but don't sell direct to the public, so I got a set off Amazon. PERFECT FIT. Then ordered an extra key directly from Gorilla. They do not stick out farther than the stock lug nuts and look natural.
 

Town

Senior Member
3,607
11
38
Ottawa Ontario Canada
Thread starter #11
My "Select" has the 20" wheels. Needed Wheel Locks so I ordered a set from McGard. Although they fit, they stuck out a half inch beyond the stock lug nuts. Sent them back. Phoned Gorilla products. They have wheel locks but don't sell direct to the public, so I got a set off Amazon. PERFECT FIT. Then ordered an extra key directly from Gorilla. They do not stick out farther than the stock lug nuts and look natural.
Are they McGard wheel locks?
 
89
0
6
#12
As I said, I sent the McGards back for full refund.

Ordered the Gorilla wheel locks (part number 71641N) (14mm x 1.5) from Amazon. After I received them and saw they fit PERFECT, I then called Gorilla at 1-323-585-2852 and ordered an extra key. Extra key is probably the only thing you can order directly from Gorilla.

Mind you, all this information is for the stock 20" wheels. Don't know about the other wheels.
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89
0
6
#16
Take one McGard off and lay it on a flat surface next to one of the stock wheel nuts. Compare the two. I found that not only was the McGard lock longer, the taper was shorter, although the angle was correct.


Mind you, I ordered the McGard direct from them, not from Lincoln. Sent them back then ordered Gorilla.
Gorilla part number is 71641N. My package says, "71641NB 14mm x 1.50 Acorn".

I ordered from Amazon (as Gorilla does not sell direct to the public), but you can call Gorilla to confirm at 323-585-2852.
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Town

Senior Member
3,607
11
38
Ottawa Ontario Canada
Thread starter #17
OK, I will do that, probably tomorrow. The Gorilla website shows the acorn nuts that you have and they are the same length as the factory nut, probably because there is no pattern moulded on the end like the McGard. The Gorilla nuts have the security feature on the side like a tuner nut but shorter. The price is a lot cheaper than the McGard for the Continental.
 

Town

Senior Member
3,607
11
38
Ottawa Ontario Canada
Thread starter #18
I compared my McGard locking wheel nuts to the stock wheel nuts and took a picture. The stock wheel nuts are 1.42" long and have a maximum surface contact diameter of 1.071" while the McGard locking wheel nuts are 1.68" long and have a maximum surface contact diameter of 1.064". So the McGards are a quarter of an inch longer and have the same surface contact area as shown by this picture:



I checked the torque on my wheels at about 145 ft lbs, so I tightened to 150 ft lbs. Not a struggle to get them off or back on.
 

Attachments

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#19
You are much better than I am at taking photos and posting on this forum. (Yes, I'm "old" and a computer dummy). I'm lucky I know how to post photos in my emails. Reason I say this is that your photo is identical to the ones I took before I sent them back McGard. Did not like them, so I sent them back and got the Gorilla.

BTW, Yes I may be a computer dummy but back in my day, I was good with the technology of the day and very good at what I did.
 

Town

Senior Member
3,607
11
38
Ottawa Ontario Canada
Thread starter #20
Here is a link to a procedure that may help you with uploading pics or docs to this forum: http://lincolnforums.com/forums/threads/11514-New-member-attaching-documents-pictures-to-upload Then you can use the technique described by Slick Fan in post #12 of this thread: http://lincolnforums.com/forums/threads/14930-How-to-post-large-size-pictures-like-Sal-does To put a pic into the body of the message, as I did.

So if you want to find how to do something in this site, start a thread in this forum: http://lincolnforums.com/forums/forums/17-Site-News-Feedback-Suggestions the owner (Sal) and users here will surely give you a hand.

Good luck.
 
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