1997 TC Cartier Coolant Woes - Intake Manifold Replacement

HandsOn

Member
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0
San José, CA
Don't want to take up too much space here focusing on the alternator, but it is at least related to a manifold change.
Just spent a little time in the junkyard today to see if I could find the alternator brace that Dorman expects you to use with their manifold. Out of 18 cars with similar motors, there were at least 5 different designs. Only one of which looked close. And of course, that was the one with the bolts stuck so tight I couldn't loosen them with my little wrench set! Arrgh. So I get to go back tomorrow to do more digging.

It looks like I can drill my ole bracket, which I will do if necessary. I just wanted to check out what was available and if there was a direct bolt-on so I can get the part number for future reference.

Paul
 

mbertrand98

Senior Member
115
1
16
Dallas TX
Im just going to chime in on the shop manuals and repair books, Look at your local library for shop manuals and everything, that's what i do and the best part is that i don't have to pay a dime.
 

BB62

Junior Member
1
0
0
Ohio
I'm sorry to revive this dead thread, but what is the indicator that one's intake manifold need replacing? (besides spewing coolant all over the place, that is)

Or, if I buy a LTC built during the designated period, should I just replace the manifold regardless?

Thank you.
 

HandsOn

Member
47
0
0
San José, CA
Hey BB. Sorry I could not replay straight away. I tried getting back on in July (and several times later) to post up, but the site would not let me log on, and said some gibberish about not recognizing my username, changing passwords and such, while I could not even access the sign-in screen. And now today, just on a lark I hopped on and guess what? It just logged me on automatically, just like nothing ever happened! Some times you just can't deal with these new fangled cornfuzer things. Or cars!

Hopefully you figured out your answer, but I'll post it now that I can anyway.
I would say that yes, the indicator-of-note is a leak. Otherwise there's no reason to just dive in and replace one from my experience. HOWEVER... If you ever need to do any top end work that requires a bit of fiddling with things on the manifold, that might be a good time to make sure you have one handy and then just replace it. After all, if you remember, mine was simply due to changing out a thermostat when it came time and nothing else. But it was enough to crack the manifold, necessitating the change.

Good luck. You're good to go either way I'd say. If you did it already just because you thought it might be prudent, you're not going to be blamed for wasting money, because likely you didn't. If you have not replaced it yet, great too. Just be aware of the problem potential, and be ready to deal with it when you have to.

Paul
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Joqular086

Member
99
4
8
I'm sorry to revive this dead thread, but what is the indicator that one's intake manifold need replacing? (besides spewing coolant all over the place, that is)

Or, if I buy a LTC built during the designated period, should I just replace the manifold regardless?

Thank you.
Another unwelcome result would be hydro- lock, which resulted (in my case) a bent connecting rod, and burned (waaaay overheated) wrist pin. Could been much worse. My first clue was hearing gurgling in the heater, meaning air in the coolant, which I totally ignored. Many previous cars had a cap atop the radiator, which would've vented the air, which was prob-
ably exhaust. Plus, I was driving 4.2 mi. to werk. The mech flushed and filled the coolant, and then kaput! Plus the recall was over, so I footed the bill. Don't ignore the gurgling! And always check for recalls, which I did not do, so I've already received my spanking.
 

Joqular086

Member
99
4
8
I'm sorry to revive this dead thread, but what is the indicator that one's intake manifold need replacing? (besides spewing coolant all over the place, that is)

Or, if I buy a LTC built during the designated period, should I just replace the manifold regardless?

Thank you.
 

Joqular086

Member
99
4
8
It may have been replaced already. I was unaware, but found out the hard way- hydro lock, bent pushrod, overheated wrist pin.
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Joqular086

Member
99
4
8
It may have been replaced already. I was unaware, but found out the hard way- hydro lock, bent pushrod, overheated wrist pin.
So it was leaking into the cylinder, no obvious drips to be seen. Waiting it out may cause serious damage which will cost a lot more money on top of the cost of replacing it.
 

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